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After trying conch fritters and conch salad, browsing through some individualistic boutiques and galleries, quaffing piña coladas at sunset and enjoying a reef snorkeling or fishing excursion, you might figure you’ve sampled the best the Florida Keys can offer.

Paddle a kayak through the backcountry waters of the Florida Keys, and you'll see one of the world's most diverse marine life ecosystems. (Photo by Bob Krist/Florida Keys News Bureau)
Guess what? You’d be wrong.
There’s another side of the Keys — a quiet world away from civilization, ruled by the natural ebb and flow of the ocean — that many visitors never see. It’s called the backcountry, and it’s home to one of the most diverse assortments of marine life in the world.
This shallow backwater region of flats and mangrove islands lies mostly along the north side of the Overseas Highway. Not easily accessible to boat traffic, the backcountry is largely untraveled, unspoiled, and teeming with plant and animal life.
The best way to explore this remarkable world is by sea kayak. The quiet, shallow-draft kayaks — beautifully stable and requiring no special skills, strength, or experience to paddle — mean virtually anyone can venture into the backcountry waters.

Unless you’re a kayaking veteran, the most enjoyable way to explore Keys waters is a guided excursion -– and you can book them throughout Keys. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)
Both guided tours and kayak rentals are available throughout the Keys, but a guided tour is usually the way to go. Most guides are eager to share their knowledge about the region’s environment, so a tour can become a fascinating mixture of field trip, natural history lesson and just plain fun.
The Keys’ shallow-water backcountry environment ranges from mangrove communities to turtle grass flats to sponge flats. Mangrove islands are composed of tangled stands of mangroves, their aerial roots forming tunnels and fantastic twisted shapes.
Wildlife and rare birds abound; you might spot roseate spoonbills, osprey, great white herons, and maybe even bald eagles. Gazing over the side of your craft, you’ll discover the rich biodiversity within the mangrove root systems (the roots are actually a nursery for young grouper, lobster, barracuda and other species).

One of the delights of a kayak excursion is the chance to encounter a fascinating variety of exotic birds and marine life.
Turtle grass areas too are a unique part of the backcountry. Turtle grass looks a lot like lawn grass — but anyone who pulls up a flat green blade will see snails, tiny aquatic animals, scurrying juvenile fish, and other inhabitants of this busy ecosystem.
Also a part of the backcountry are the sponge flats — the rocky sea-bottom home to bright-colored sponges and soft corals. These include the mustard-toned golf ball coral whose domed shape and golf-ball-like dimples inspired its surprising name.
The grass flats and sponge flats can also support small lobster, young reef fish, turtles, stingrays, and big predators like shark and barracuda. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a graceful rolling tarpon.
Kayak trips are designed for novices as well as experienced paddlers; children are often welcome (it’s a good idea to check with the operator beforehand) and many people with physical challenges can enjoy the adventure with ease.

The Keys' waters are protected within the Florida Keys Marine Sanctuary, offering an unspoiled region for tranquil exploration. (Photo provided by Florida Keys News Bureau)
Guided backcountry tours last from about two hours to a full day or even longer. You’ll want to bring sunblock, a hat or cap, bathing suit and towels, sunglasses and a waterproof camera to capture your experiences. Many excursions include snorkeling, and snorkel gear may or may not be provided, so it’s wise to ask when making reservations.
If you love the outdoors and want to venture beyond the normal tourist realm, there’s no better way to discover the Florida Keys — the real, unspoiled Florida Keys — than on a backcountry kayak adventure. To find one that meets your needs, check out the listings at www.fla-keys.com/ecotourism/index.cfm.
Topics Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Districts, Environment, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Marathon, On the Water, Topics, Voices Main Archive
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