With the completion of the Key West airport’s major renovations and AirTran beginning low-cost jet service, the future looks bright for air travel in the southernmost city. However, Key West’s role in air travel’s past is equally important.

Though this doesn't look much like a high-tech navigational aid, some say Aeromarine Airways occasionally relied on pigeons for direction.

In 1927, the island was the birthplace of one-time aviation giant Pan American Airlines. And its aviation history dates back even further than that — to Aeromarine Airways.

In 1920, Aeromarine began America’s first official international airmail service, between Key West and Havana, using F5L “flying boats” bought from the U.S. Navy. Among them were the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria.

The “flying boats” traveled at approximately 70 miles per hour, reaching Cuba in just over 60 minutes. Aeromarine also inaugurated America’s first scheduled international passenger service — and strangely enough, passengers and sacks of mail were charged the same fare for the trip.

In those days, radio sets could weigh more than half a ton and were hardly aviation-friendly, so carrier pigeons were used by Aeromarine pilots to carry messages during their flights. Rumors persist that the airline also had another use for the pigeons: if a flyer lost his bearings, he would release a hapless bird and follow it home to Key West.

Actress and former Key West resident Kelly McGillis has an intriguing connection to the island's aviation history. Not only was she co-founder of Kelly's Restaurant in a former PanAm building, but she also starred in "Top Gun" -- itself a piece of aviation history.

Pan Am may have avoided pigeons, but its first international flight was as unusual as anything ever attempted by Aeromarine. The airline was the brainchild of Juan Trippe — who, during a chancy flight to Cuba in 1925, had obtained a letter guaranteeing him airplane landing rights in the country.

That letter proved to be a gold mine. By October 11, 1927, Trippe’s fledgling Pan American Airways had been awarded an all-important contract with the United States Post Office to deliver mail between Key West and Havana.

Unfortunately, the contract required the airline to deliver the first load of letters by October 19, and Pan American had serious problems: no plane, for one thing, and not much of an airport in Key West.

The planes, Fokker trimotors ordered more than 18 months before, had not arrived. The Key West “airport” was simply a boulder-filled field with two dirt runways virtually swamped by a two-day rainstorm.

By October 18, time had run out. If the sacks of mail weren’t flown to Cuba the next day, the contract was void and Pan American was doomed.

Luckily, that day a barnstormer named Cy Caldwell landed his single-engine seaplane in Miami for repairs. There, a friend of Pan Am’s manager, aware of the airline’s desperate situation, made a desperate request: could Caldwell fly to Cuba with the mail?

John Richmond, owner of the Conch Flyer at Key West International Airport, indicates some aviation memorabilia on display at the popular bar and restaurant. (Photo by Rob O'Neal/Florida Keys News Bureau)

Caldwell could. By dawn on October 19, he and his seaplane were in Key West to receive seven sacks of mail holding approximately 30,000 letters. At 8:04 a.m., Caldwell took off — landing in Havana with the mail about an hour before the cable from Key West arrived announcing his departure. With its first “official” flight completed, Pan Am was in business.

Today, the relocated building that housed Pan Am’s ticket office on the Key West waterfront (and also Aeromarine’s headquarters) is part of Kelly’s Caribbean Bar, Grill & Brewery at the corner of Whitehead and Caroline streets. The popular emporium, decorated with Key West aviation memorabilia, is named for its co-founder, actress and former Key West resident Kelly McGillis.

For other reminders of the island’s role in early aviation, check out the memorabilia at El Meson de Pepe, the world-class Cuban restaurant at Mallory Square, and the wonderful wall collage at the Conch Flyer bar and restaurant at the Key West airport.

These days, air travel is nearly as common as breathing, modern navigational aids have replaced pigeons, and both Aeromarine and Pan Am are defunct. Key West’s place in aviation history, however, remains secure — a colorful and celebrated part of the island’s heritage.

Topics: Highlights, Key West, Keys History, Keys Quirks

Fishing in Florida Keys waters can sometimes have a strange and wonderful effect on a person. Take local “Keynoter” newspaper editor Larry Kahn, for instance.

In this photo from a few years back, Larry Kahn delightedly displays the first dolphin fish he ever caught.

Regular readers of this blog may recall my account of his angling misadventures (“Larry’s Dilemma: Perplexed by a Pilchard”) in an earlier post. If you haven’t read it, you should. But let’s just say that, despite Larry comparing his angling skills to those of Ernest Hemingway, the picture wasn’t pretty.

On a recent angling adventure, however, he proved he’s come a long way since then.

It was my final hurrah for the summer. We set out in my Sailfish 2660 boat about 7 a.m., headed for a local spot known as the 409 hump, literally an underwater mountain about 21 miles south of Islamorada. I was full of anticipation after scoring a banner catch of blackfin tuna the previous weekend and hearing from other anglers the fish were still there.

But when we got to the hump, we were a bit disappointed. An overnight wind shift, with the breeze coming out of the west, probably was responsible for pushing most of the bait out of the area. We saw some tuna, but not the acres of fish experienced the previous weekend.

Post author and passionate angler Andy Newman caught this blackfin tuna recently off Islamorada.

We did see a few birds feeding, so we commenced trolling Rapala red-and-white lures, feathers and a few ballyhoo. We caught plenty of skipjacks — some of them quite large at around 18 to 20 pounds. They’re terrific fighters, but not great eating.

We did manage to catch a half-dozen blackfin tuna as we continued working the area through the morning and early afternoon. We also had one sailfish strike, but couldn’t get a hook into it.

Around 1 p.m., we hooked into a big skipjack and Larry began to battle it. The fish peeled off line but was finally stopped. Larry started gaining line and the fish began to come in much easier.

As I looked back, I saw the fish about 50 feet behind the boat — but something was not right. Upon closer examination, I realized it was missing its tail.

Then I saw a huge flash and figured it was a barracuda. Larry continued reeling in what was left of his catch — and that’s when I spotted the biggest wahoo I’ve ever seen about 10 feet behind the boat. I figured the fish would easily go 75 pounds, probably heavier.

Anglers Andy Newman, Jerry O'Cathey and Matt Strahan relax after a long -- and obviously successful -- day fishing in Florida Keys waters.

Clearly, the wahoo was the culprit that was cannibalizing Larry’s fish. Even when only one-third of the skipjack remained at the end of the line, the wahoo continued to hang around the boat eying it.

Now, you must understand that a wahoo is a highly prized gamefish. They’re incredibly strong, lightning fast and make for fabulous dining.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have any live bait, so I casted a previously frozen ballyhoo. The wahoo showed no interest. Then I brought in the skipjack’s remains, cut a slab off it and tossed it out. Still nothing. Finally, I baited the remainder of the skipjack, but the wahoo had swum away.

At that point, we decided to head back. On the way in, about 15 miles off Islamorada, another friend, Roy Hughes, saw a piece of bamboo that we passed and almost missed. We managed to pull in half a dozen gaffer dolphin (a/k/a mahi-mahi, which is the fish and not the mammal) — an excellent way to end the trip.

No longer a squeamish angler, Larry salutes his vanquished foe.

And Larry? Well, first of all, despite losing a few blackfin tuna earlier in the day, he made up for it by catching one eight-pound dolphin and one 11-pound dolphin on a spinning rod with 10-pound-test line.

And after reeling in the mangled skipjack, he picked it up and looked at it with an almost tender expression — an expression Hemingway would have recognized — as though saluting a vanquished foe that lost its life in the good fight.

Only a few years earlier, Larry squeamishly complained about baiting his own hooks. That afternoon, he was cuddling a bloody fish carcass. Truly, fishing in Florida Keys waters can have a strange and wonderful effect on a person.

Topics: Florida Keys, Highlights, Islamorada, Keys Environment, On the Water

Key West has a richness that becomes more apparent with each new exploration of the island. Taking the time to experience it is like savoring a plate of Cuban food — allowing yourself the chance to appreciate each dish’s individual flavors, textures and contrasts.

The Schooner Wharf's postcard identifies the bar as "the center of the universe" -- and for its many fans, it just might be.

The places listed here are renowned for their atmosphere and attractions. Most likely, you won’t discover them by accident — yet seeking them out will add to your enjoyment of Key West whether your stay lasts a few days, a season, or a lifetime.

For example, if you’re looking for a great local bar, stop by the Schooner Wharf (www.schoonerwharf.com) at 202 William St. Located on the waterfront in the Historic Seaport, it’s the kind of funky open-air place where you can bring your dog, your girlfriend and half a dozen fishing buddies — and everyone will have a good time.

Schooner Wharf’s owners pay special attention to finding high-quality bands to grace the small stage. Despite their talent, it’s singer-songwriter Michael McCloud whose music defines the bar. Generally playing from noon to 5 p.m., McCloud is best when performing his original tunes spiced with island attitude and rueful humor.

Key lime pie guru Kermit Carpenter doesn't really throw pies at visitors -- or does he?

About a block from the Schooner Wharf, at the colorful Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe (www.keylimeshop.com) at 200A Elizabeth St., you’ll find unique Keys gifts and decadent treats. This emporium is the home of everything Key lime — from bottles of the island’s signature Key lime juice to Key lime sauces, soap, candles, dressings, shampoo, jellies and more.

The biggest attractions, though, are slices of traditional Key lime pie and indescribably good chocolate-covered frozen Key lime pie on a stick — and exuberant shop owner Kermit Carpenter, who can often be seen standing outside the shop in his chef’s whites preparing to “throw” a Key lime pie at unwary passersby.

Across the island lies an upscale cocktail hideaway in a picturesque Key West setting: the Afterdeck at Louie’s Backyard (www.louiesbackyard.com), on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean at 700 Waddell Ave. Beloved by Key West literary legends, visiting celebrities, world-class fishing guides and savvy locals, the Afterdeck is a place to take someone special — whether the love of your life, a treasured friend or a visiting relative you want to impress.

For fine food and world-class cocktails on an oceanside deck, visit the out-of-the-way haven called Louie's Backyard.

One of Key West’s finest gourmet restaurants, Louie’s Backyard itself occupies a restored Victorian house with dining inside and on tiered decks leading down to the Afterdeck and the water. After dark, lights spill from the house and the decks to illuminate the bar, the stars above look practically close enough to touch, and the Atlantic unrolls seemingly halfway to Cuba.

Speaking of dining, eating Cuban food in Key West — whether you’re a first-time visitor or an aspiring local — is a necessity. It’s probably mandated in the city charter somewhere (and if it isn’t, it should be). There’s an ongoing controversy about which is the island’s best Cuban restaurant, but don’t get drawn into it. The clear winner is El Siboney (www.elsiboneyrestaurant.com), an out-of-the-way spot tucked into a quiet residential neighborhood.

Located at the corner of Catherine and Margaret streets, El Siboney is an inexpensive family-friendly eatery that serves some of the best roast chicken anywhere (and the largest portions). Accompanied by black beans and yellow rice, Cuban bread and sweet plantains, the perfectly-seasoned chicken is so tender it practically falls off the bone.

Cocktails, Cuban food and Key Lime pie ... in Key West, it doesn't get much better than that. Photo by Bob Krist/Florida Keys News Bureau

Of course El Siboney also offers other Cuban specialties: traditional ropa vieja and picadillo, savory roast pork and dishes marinated in a garlicky sauce called mojo criollo.

From its Cuban restaurants to waterfront watering holes, Key West is just waiting to be explored. Use the suggestions here as a beginning, and start compiling your own list of favorite places.

Topics: Florida Keys, Food, Highlights, Key West, Local Color, Restaurant Picks

It’s called the No Name Pub, and it bills itself as the oldest pub in Florida. It might also be the hardest to find — the quirky eatery lies off U.S. Highway 1 in the Lower Florida Keys, down a winding road and over a humpbacked bridge in an individualistic settlement known as No Name Key.

You have to venture off the proverbial beaten path to find the No Name Pub, but the experience is well worth it. (Photo courtesy of the No Name Pub)

This out-of-the-way location doesn’t keep people from discovering the local landmark — or falling in love with its historic Florida Keys charm, world-class pizza and ramshackle décor that includes interior walls papered with dollar bills.

What is now the pub first opened as a general store and bait and tackle shop in 1931. In 1936, the owners began serving food; in the late 1930s they opened a brothel in an upstairs storage room.

The restaurant proved more popular than the brothel (no doubt a surprise to certain ladies eager to earn extra money!). The latter faded away, while the pub started attracting an ever-larger following.

Serious enjoyment and ramshackle decor characterize the quirky No Name Pub. (Photo courtesy of the No Name Pub)

Amenities in subsequent years included a honky-tonk atmosphere and amusements ranging from pool to less savory games of chance — some reputedly run by the local sheriff.

The pub’s famous pizza was born in 1960, prepared according to a recipe imported by two Italian cooks. It proved to be such an enduring draw that today it’s modestly promoted as “the best pizza in the known universe.”

You can choose traditional varieties or gourmet delights like a Keys shrimp pizza (a must-have treat — the combination of bubbly, slightly salty cheese and the Keys’ own sweet pink shrimp is impossible to resist).

The pub's individualistic character is exemplified by its funky casual signs -- like the ones pictured here. (Photo courtesy of the No Name Pub)

As the pub’s nearly 70 years of popularity prove, when great food and laidback Keys flavor come together, “no name” is no barrier to success.

The place itself may be hard to find, but its website is easy. Visit www.nonamepub.com for a glimpse of the landmark’s offbeat character, historic photos, menu highlights and a more-or-less exact address (actually, you find it by turning off U.S. Highway 1 at mile marker 30.5 bayside and then following the winding road … but resign yourself to the inevitability of getting lost at least once).

AND WHILE YOU’RE LOST … EXPLORE THESE!

Big-eyed and shy, Key deer can be spotted throughout the Lower Keys widlife refuge created to protect them. (Photo courtesy of Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

NATIONAL KEY DEER REFUGE, down Key Deer Boulevard off U.S. 1 at mile marker 30.5 bayside. At first, you might wonder what all the fuss is about. Then you see one — a big-eyed Key deer, no taller than a good-sized Doberman, standing at the roadside in an instant of arrested motion before it scampers away — and you’re hooked on the tiny critters. The best times to spot them are early morning and dusk, and they wander freely in the refuge. The refuge has an informative visitors’ center located in Big Pine Key’s Winn Dixie Shopping Center.

THE BLUE HOLE, within the Key Deer Refuge down Key Deer Boulevard off U.S. 1 at mile marker 30.5 bayside. This was originally an old rock quarry used in the construction of the Overseas Railroad that connected the Keys to mainland Florida (and to each other) in the early 1900s. Today it’s a freshwater habitat for alligators and wading birds. Spend a few minutes at this secluded oasis, before or after your pizza, and you’ll swear you’ve been transported back in time to the Keys’ early days.

Topics: Animal Ambassadors, Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Florida Keys, Food, Highlights, Keys Environment, Keys History, Keys Quirks, Local Color, Restaurant Picks