In early December, the island of Key Largo is hosting a milestone birthday party for John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, America’s first underwater preserve, as it turns an amazing 50 years old.

An underwater birthday celebration for Pennakamp is planned at the bronze Christ of the Abyss sculpture. (Photo by Stephen Frink)

The historic happening is set for Dec. 1-11 — and it’s a great time for divers, snorkelers and other visitors to discover or rediscover the remarkable Key Largo park.

Located about 90 minutes from Miami by car, the park was dedicated Dec. 10, 1960 — capping efforts by a farsighted group, including the late “Miami Herald” editor John Pennekamp, to create it.

These days, the park that bears Pennekamp’s name draws more than a million visitors annually. They come to explore its nature trails and beaches, and observe the fascinating underwater wildlife that lives within its 70 nautical miles.

The 50th birthday events are more than a commemoration of the park’s history. They also honor its mission of protecting and preserving the natural resources inside its boundaries — particularly a part of the continental United States’ only living coral barrier reef.

So what’s happening during the celebration? For one thing, an underwater birthday gala and re-dedication ceremony at one of the park’s most famous offshore attractions: the nine-foot-tall bronze “Christ of the Abyss” statue that rests gracefully in 20 feet of water.

World-renowned artist Wyland (front) signs his painting created for the Pennekamp birthday. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The Pennekamp bronze is the twin of a statue in the Mediterranean Sea. An industrialist named Egidi Cressi donated it to the Underwater Society of America in 1961, and it’s truly an awe-inspiring sight to encounter during a dive or snorkel excursion.

If you attend the Pennekamp festivities, you’ll find land- and water-based events for the whole family — for example, a snorkeling record attempt, a King & Queen of the Reef Gala, a juried photo contest for shutterbugs, and Key Largo’s fun and informative Protect the Reef Days.

An educational fair and environmental expo is scheduled at Pennekamp Saturday, Dec. 11, with exhibits, oral history tales told by former park managers and staff, and kids’ activities — plus a presentation by world-renowned oceanographer and explorer Dr. Sylvia Earle, named “Time” magazine’s first Hero for the Planet.

Legendary oceanographer and explorer Dr. Sylvia Earle, “Time” magazine’s first Hero for the Planet, will be the celebration's featured speaker.

There are plenty of other things to intrigue you at Pennekamp, too — among them viewing the reef from a glass-bottom boat, canoeing, kayaking or fishing. And don’t forget Pennekamp’s land-based attractions: nature trails, picnic pavilions and beaches where you can catch a few rays and relax between more active pursuits.

But even that’s not all. During the birthday doings, Key Largo businesses are offering special rates on everything from accommodations and dining to dive and snorkel trips, and a whole lot more.

If you can, head for the Keys to attend the 50th birthday party for the national treasure known as John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. If you can’t make it, then take a little time Dec. 1-11, wherever you are, to remember and celebrate Pennekamp’s underwater world — a world well worth celebrating.

Topics: Environment, Events, Festivals, Highlights, History, Key Largo, On the Water, Voices Main Archive

It’s not every day you can dance with an admiral — particularly one from the Florida Keys’ legendary Conch Republic Military. Or earn kudos from scurvy pirates for “walking the plank,” plunging into the azure deep off a picturesque schooner.

Pirates and wenches like this colorful pair roam the Key West streets during the offbeat Pirates in Paradise Festival. (Photo courtesy of Pirates in Paradise)

But scallywags and wenches can do that and more between Nov. 26 and Dec. 5, at Key West’s rollicking Pirates in Paradise Festival.

In fact, around that time of year it’s common (though a little startling) to spy a gaggle of pirates — garbed in historic seafaring regalia and peppering their speech with “arrghh” and “me hearties” — wandering into the Green Parrot or picking up a snack at Fausto’s Grocery.

At the Key West Maritime Pirates Sunset Reception and Conch Republic Military Holiday Feast Extravaganza (possibly the longest event name on the Keys calendar), you’ll find scores of the aforementioned pirates enthusiastically gallivanting with uniformed members of the Conch Republic (and U.S.) Military Forces.

The Conch Republic Military was created to protect and defend the honor and territory of the Florida Keys (aka the Conch Republic) from key to shining key. Boasting what’s believed to be the largest self-propelled navy in the world, it also maintains military assets including biplanes, seaplanes and cannons galore.

Who's the admiral commanding the Conch Republic Military Forces? Finbar Gittelman, a master seafarer with a roguish sense of humor. (Photo by Rob O'Neal)

Members range from enlisted personnel to Supreme Commander Admiral Finbar, a venerable sea dog who guides his troops with benevolent humor. In fact, the military’s unique mindset is best illustrated by its rules for handling disagreements: the two parties involved fight a duel, using weapons limited to water guns, water balloons, Conch fritters, stale Cuban bread and Key lime pie. And when it’s all over, they forgive each other.

See why it’s such a treat to mingle with the good-hearted bunch at their annual holiday extravaganza?

Set for Tuesday, Nov. 30, at Key West’s Truman Waterfront Commons next to the floating museum ships Ingham and Mohawk, the gala will feature feasting, a rum tasting and dancing to the sounds of local musicians — including Howard Livingston & the Mile Marker 24 Band, and Mike Emerson and the Southernmost Brass Swing Band. (Click here for costs, ticketing and other stuff you should know.)

This bold plank-walker shows exceptional style as he prepares to plunge into the deep. (Photo courtesy of Pirates in Paradise)

Fonder of adventure than feasting? Then join bold buccaneers and saucy lasses to vie for bragging rights and glory in the annual Walk the Plank Championships — undeniably the wackiest (and wettest!) escapade on the Pirates in Paradise schedule.

More than a dozen pirate re-enactors from around the U.S. and Caribbean typically compete in this soggy sporting challenge, set for 3:30 p.m. Dec. 2 on Admiral Finbar’s glorious topsail Schooner Wolf at the Truman Waterfront Commons.

According to Pirates in Paradise founder and chief wench Julie McEnroe, the event offers the only competitive opportunity in America for plank-walking practitioners to prove their skills (now THERE’S a surprise).

The format is simple. Men, women and even kids dressed in pirate attire plunge from the Wolf into the water — after pleading for mercy or attempting to outwit the scurvy crew forcing them off a narrow plank.

Swashbucklers of all sorts strut their stuff during the rollicking Key West festival. (Photo courtesy of Pirates in Paradise)

Believe it or not, this crazy competition has judges who “grade” plank-walkers based on the quality of their pleas, piratical garb, overall style and splash.

What else goes on during Pirates in Paradise? Tall ship sailing excursions, living history pirate encampments, scallywags’ soirees, a “village thieves’ market” and pirate pub, pirate walking tours of Key West and the staged re-creation of the trial of notorious real-life buccaneers Anne Bonny and Mary Read.

So if you’re eager to show off your swashbuckling style, or dance with an admiral, drop anchor in Key West and party with the pirates!

Topics: Events, Festivals, Highlights, Key West, Local Color, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

It just amazes me that Fantasy Fest is already past. This year’s event was over the top. Next year’s festival runs Oct. 21-30, so plan your headdress and costumes now — you only have 11 months to be creative!

Fantasy Fest rocked this year, with its grand parade drawing huge crowds and wonderful floats like this Avatar interpretation. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Then, adding to the fun following Fantasy Fest, Key West hosted Parrot Heads in Paradise, the fans of singer/songwriter Jimmy Buffett who lived here for many years. Each year, this group of fun-loving fans swarms over the island with music in the streets and at the resorts. Occasionally, you might even catch Jimmy playing a gig. Equally important, the group raises many thousands of dollars for local charities.

After that came the 30th annual Key West World Championship powerboat races.  Believe me, serious teams with serious toys compete in that event — no wonder it’s become known as the Indianapolis 500 of powerboat racing.

I missed these festivities because I had a fun promotion for the Florida Keys & Key West at Palm Springs Pride. I enjoyed meeting Palm Springs folks and reconnecting with colleagues that work many of the same shows — and even bumped into my friend Matt Link, a seasoned travel writer. Boy, were we surprised to see find each other in Palm Springs. If you see him, ask him where we met.

More than 50 stunningly fast offshore race boats roared through Key West waters during the powerboat championships. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Then I zipped over to London for World Travel Market, a huge international travel show.  The Keys exhibited along with hundreds of destinations from the four corners of the world.  During the event we hosted a press reception serving Key lime pie and everyone enjoyed the sweets.

London in November is much different than Key West: cold, cloudy and windy. In fact, most of the Brits we met sighed enviously when they found out we were from Key West. I also had dinner with good friends Aidan, who’s with British Sky Broadcasting, and his husband Frank, a psych professor. They’re regular Key West visitors, and it was great catching up with them.

Watching decorated boats proceed around the harbor is a great way to sail into the holidays.

With the holidays looming, so much is going on that we must plan our days and nights. Any day now, swashbucklers and wenches will invade the island during Pirates in Paradise, and we’ll gather Dec. 4 to watch the Key West Holiday Parade. We celebrate in a special Key West way as the parade winds down Truman Avenue, then Duval Street to Eaton Street.

Enjoy several weeks of holiday fun on the decorated and lighted Historic Seaport during the “Bight Before Christmas” while strolling around the shops and ships. And don’t miss the Lighted Inn Tours Dec. 10-11 and Dec. 17-18.

For a real treat, catch the Lighted Boat Parade Saturday, Dec. 11, from the shores of the Gulf of Mexico just after the sun goes down. And don’t miss the ballet “Nutcracker” performed Key West style. It is NOT the “Nutcracker” you might remember seeing as a kid.

Professional dancers and Keys kids join in the production of "Nutcracker" with a unique island flair. (Photo courtesy of "Nutcracker Key West")

On Dec. 28 and 29, the Old Island Restoration Foundation presents its 51st House and Garden Tour, where you can visit elegant and unique homes in Key West’s beautiful Old Town historic district.

On Sundays, take a break by dancing at Sunday Tea Dance at La Te Da from 4 to 6 p.m., and then finish your evening with a free live jazz concert from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. at the Gardens Hotel on Angela Street.

Save some energy for New Year’s Eve. I’ll tell you more about that next time!

(Steve’s current American Airlines miles: 2,541,849 miles promoting Key West to the LGBT world. Divided by 500 miles per hour average, that means 5,083.69 hours in a can at 30,000 feet!)

Topics: Events, Festivals, Highlights, Key West, LGBT

It’s the fragrance of frangipani and the ever-present scent of saltwater. The feel of summer heat on sun-browned skin. The soft, rhythmic wash of waves lapping the shore, or the faint sound of tropical tunes playing on the back deck of the house next door.

Blossoms cascading over a white picket fence are a typical (yet captivating) sight in the Keys -- a perfect visual "centerpiece" for your oasis.

But the Florida Keys experience is much more than those sensory elements. It’s a laid-back attitude; an atmosphere of welcome; an approach to living that blends individuality, a refusal to take life too seriously, and a near-reverence for relaxation.

And you don’t have to give it up when your vacation ends.

Whether you’re a first-time visitor sorry to leave the Keys or a wannabe resident whose real-world schedule leaves little time for tropical escapes, you can create an oasis at home that allows you to transcend daily hassles and recapture the magical Keys mindset.

The process is simple. Select a small space in your home — a shelf, a tabletop, or corner — and gather items that remind you of the Keys. You might choose photos of Victorian homes dripping gingerbread and hibiscus blooms, a blazing orange sunset, an underwater world alive with tropical fish and reef life, or the bow of a boat against turquoise water.

Maybe your Keys memories focus on boats at anchor, with a hint of saltwater tang flavoring the breeze.

Include cocktail coasters from your favorite Keys watering hole, shells found along the shore, your dive log, or maybe some beach pebbles. Find some colorful tropical fabric and set your mementos on it.

But that’s only the beginning. The Keys aren’t just a visual paradise. They surround the senses — and, to truly recreate the island chain’s ambiance, so should your oasis.

Add a bottle of fragrant sunscreen. When you open it, you’re practically guaranteed to trigger a powerful olfactory memory of hours spent lazing on the beach. Or light pillar candles with tropical aromas, or slice a fresh lime for a tangy reminder of your favorite frozen Margarita.

Create your oasis to recall lazy, sun-drenched days spent relaxing in the Keys. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Don’t forget the sounds of the islands: palm fronds rustling in the constant breeze, lazy waves lapping shore or boat, tropical rock music drifting through the air from somebody’s CD player. All can be recreated in your oasis. Whether you favor Buffett’s latest, the guitar mastery of Dave Feder, the infectious rhythms of Howard Livingston & Mile Marker 24, or the natural noises that flavor the Keys’ subtropical days and nights … they’re available on tape or CD.

Once you’ve completed your Florida Keys corner, make visiting it a regular pleasure. Close your eyes, cast your mind back to a favorite Keys memory, and let your cares float away on a sunscreen-scented breeze. What could be a better reminder to slow your pace and savor the things that matter most?

Of course, enticing as it is, your oasis can’t compare to an actual escape to the Florida Keys. Particularly now that temperatures are dropping in much of America, consider a winter break in your favorite subtropical haven. After all, don’t you deserve it?

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, Voices Main Archive

Key Largo is the northernmost gateway to the Florida Keys. Known as the dive capital of the world, it earns raves from underwater enthusiasts for its colorful reefs and marine life — but it’s sometimes under-appreciated by visitors who prefer dry land.

As well its local landmarks and world-class diving, Key Largo is known for a popular annual run over one of its breathtaking bridges. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

No wetsuit, no mask, no boat? No problem! Key Largo is filled with unforgettable local hangouts for those who want to keep their heads above water.

Begin by taking the road less traveled — Card Sound Road, where attractions include Crocodile Lake National Wildlife Refuge, lush plant life and the infamous Alabama Jack’s. Since 1947, this open-air rustic restaurant and watering hole has been a Keys favorite for everyday pirates and bikers … and celebrities like Billy Joel, Jimmy Buffett and others.

What began as a rough biker bar has evolved into a family-owned and operated place that boasts a diverse crowd, attentive service, fresh homemade food and good times. Since the Saguer family purchased Alabama Jack’s in 1981, they’ve offered live entertainment every weekend by the Card Sound Road Machine and their clog dancers.

Owner Phyllis Sauger, a former science teacher from Michigan, is the mastermind behind Alabama Jack’s most famous dishes — crab cakes, chocolate peanut butter cheesecake and fish dip. As befits a science teacher, she spent three years concocting the “formula” for the award-winning conch fritters.

Key Largo's Caribbean Club is famed as a location for the 1948 movie classic that shares a name with the Keys' gateway island.

A fabulous next stop is the Key Largo Conch House for a fresh cup of java and a bite of award-winning lobster and conch ceviche. Tucked away behind a leafy hammock near mile marker (MM) 100, the Conch House features designer coffee blends from Costa Rica and a full menu of locally acclaimed dishes.

It’s been showcased on the Food Network as a quaint, off-the-beaten-path place to eat — and no wonder. This peachy little home is ideal for a quiet family outing or a cup of tea in the garden. It’s also family-owned and operated as an eco-friendly restaurant that incorporates almost exclusively local ingredients in its dishes.

When you arrive, you’ll probably be greeted by Romeo the parrot. According to owner Laura Dreaver, they purchased Romeo because “in the Keys we’re all pirates and walk around with our parrots.”

Mrs. Mac's Kitchen is rightfully renowned for its Key lime pie and other yummy homemade dishes.

Parrots and pirates are certainly appropriate at the Caribbean Club, MM 104. This local watering hole, made famous as a location for scenes in the 1948 movie classic “Key Largo,” has been a Keys landmark for decades. You’ll find Harleys lined up outside, rickety boats tied up at the dock and (of course) cold beers in the ice chest.

Key Largo is also home to Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen, where the sign reading “World Famous Key Lime Pie” is NOT an exaggeration. The pie is a delicious blend of sweet and tart goodness in a thick graham cracker crust.

Founded in 1976, this Keys favorite was named for the mother of original owner Jeff MacFarland in honor of her recipes.

When the day's exploring is over, nothing beats a Key Largo sunset over the water.

Since sisters Angela and Paula Wittke purchased the restaurant in 1987, they have run it by a simple motto: “Eat Well, Laugh Often, Live Long.” The tiny eatery is decorated with wall-to-wall license plates donated by guests who want to leave their mark on the place.

All dishes and sauces are homemade-from-scratch with Keys flair, and owners and staff display a lively sense of humor.

“When they ask us if we serve crabs, we tell them we’ll serve anybody,” Angela Wittke said.

Want more insights on the top local spots in the Key Largo area? Just click here.

Topics: Food, Highlights, History, Key Largo, Local Color, Restaurant Picks

(Editor’s Note: Your favorite blogger, Steve Smith, is in London representing Key West & the Florida Keys at World Travel Market. He’ll be back soon with tales from his trip and other tidbits.)

For an island only two miles long by four miles wide, Key West offers an astonishing variety of entertainment choices.

The beach at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park is Key West locals' favorite for its clear Atlantic Ocean waters and near-shore snorkeling.

In fact, the popular island city contains so many clubs, museums and attractions — plus boating, fishing and diving opportunities — that it’s impossible to explore them all in a single trip.

While Key West’s cosmopolitan live-and-let-live attitude means virtually everyone is welcome everywhere, some clubs and entertainment options are specifically geared to appeal to the island’s many LGBT visitors.

With Key West’s year-round subtropical climate, daytime entertainment often centers around swimming and sunning. You might explore the beach at historic Fort Zachary Taylor or the dock at the south end of Reynolds Street.

If you’re seeking livelier activities, the azure water surrounding Key West is the place to be. The only living coral barrier reef in the continental United States lies just seven miles offshore, teeming with vivid-hued tropical fish and fantastic coral formations. And the amazing underwater visibility makes the area a paradise for divers and snorkelers.

This 1.25-mile-long rainbow flag, stretching down Key West's Duval Street from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean, is a striking visual representation of the island's all-welcome atmosphere. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Snorkel and scuba excursions are plentiful, with instruction available for novices. Several vessels — among them powerboats, party boats and sailboats — offer specifically gay trips. And no visit to Key West would be complete without taking a romantic sunset cruise — listening to the creak of the rigging as the tropical sun descends beneath the horizon in a blaze of vivid orange and pink. Several sunset cruises cater exclusively to gay and lesbian visitors.

After the sun goes down, the bar and club scene heats up. The most notable thing about Key West’s nightlife is the genuine friendliness encountered virtually everywhere. Even in colorful mainstream bars and clubs, the gay-friendly atmosphere is instantly apparent.

Since the days of the memorable Monster, lost sister to the Village Monster, the island’s club scene has featured a generous variety of establishments oriented toward gay and lesbian visitors. Today’s choices include intimate cocktail lounges where conversation is paramount, dance and cruise bars, open-air pubs where music and patrons overflow cheerfully out into the street, a leather bar, piano bars and cabarets.

That big-city flavor also permeates Key West’s theater scene. Key West has a long tradition, dating from the mid-1800s, of presenting fine dramas, comedies and musicals. Today, several venues offer locally produced creations as well as hosting guest artists and road companies from around the world.

Cast members perform "The Musical of Musicals, The Musical!" at Key West's Waterfront Playhouse. (Photo courtesy of Waterfront Playhouse)

Theater venues include the Waterfront Playhouse, Red Barn Theatre and the Tennessee Williams Theatre, located at Florida Keys Community College on nearby Stock Island. This spacious playhouse, built to honor the Pulitzer Prize–winning playwright who lived in Key West for decades, hosted the premiere of Williams’ “Will Mr. Merriweather Return From Memphis?”

Other area entertainment offerings include chamber ensembles by internationally recognized musicians and regular performances by the acclaimed Key West Symphony Orchestra and Key West Pops. On the lighter side, a variety of drag shows range from the flawlessly sophisticated to the delightfully amateurish.

Whatever your reason for visiting Key West, and whether you’re seeking on-the-water adventures or after-dark entertainment, there’s only one thing that might disappoint you about this sophisticated subtropical destination — one visit just doesn’t allow time enough to experience it all.

Topics: Arts, Highlights, Key West, LGBT, On the Water, Voices Main Archive