Want to hunt the skittish gray ghost of the flats, the bonefish? Come to the Keys. Feel like battling a reel-emptying blue marlin? Come to the Keys. Want to sit in a beach chair, sipping a cold cocktail while watching your bobber dance in the current? Come to the Keys.

A young boy aboard the Class Action is fascinated with a sailfish caught off Islamorada. The fish was quickly released alive. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau

The tropical weather, nearby Gulf Stream and 120-mile-long arc of islands that make up the Florida Keys create one of the world’s best fishing environments.

Off the Keys’ “outer” curve lies the Atlantic Ocean. Warm and shallow near shore, the ocean reaches depths of more than 600 feet just 11 miles offshore in the Upper Keys. Near Key West, 600-foot depths are just over five miles from shore. Travel another 12 to 15 miles south, and depths begin to approach 2,000 feet.

Keys deep-sea fishing — ideally with a first-class local charter captain — means targeting some of the world’s greatest sportfish: sailfish, swordfish and marlin.

In addition, rocket-like wahoo and kingfish deliver high-speed thrills. And for a wonderful food fish, consider the island chain’s most popular summer visitor, the dolphin fish (not to be confused with Flipper).

Angler Vic Gaspeny winds on a swordfish aboard the Catch 22 while fishing off Islamorada. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

What are the best times to catch these prizes?

Blue marlin fishing is generally best from April through July. Sailfish season runs from November through February. Most wahoo race through Keys waters during April and May, and also November through December. Kingfish are most active September to March. Dolphin fishing starts around April and continues through September.

Actually, though, those seasons often overlap — because in the Keys, most species can be caught year-round.

Closer to the reef lines, you can catch grouper and snapper with lighter gear. If you try grouper fishing, you’ll probably discover why locals say, “Whoever wins the first three seconds wins the battle.” That’s because moving a grouper out from under a rock takes arms of steel and tackle to match.

A Florida Keys bonefish guide, right. points his angler to a bonefish on fly tackle. More than 200 International Game Fish Association saltwater world records have been set in the Florida Keys. (Photo by Bob Krist, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Yellowtail snapper (arguably the Keys’ tastiest food fish) are year-round residents, but the hottest fishing tends to be from April through June. Grouper are also year-round residents, but they’re best fished from November through March.

Florida Bay, edged by the “inner” curve of the Keys and the Florida mainland, is popularly called the backcountry. It’s home to five sought-after gamefish: bonefish, tarpon, permit, redfish and snook.

The largest bonefish in the world, around 8 to 14 pounds, are caught near Islamorada. Tarpon from 60 to 150 pounds are found along the entire length of the Keys. And permit, for years found only in the Lower Keys and far north Key Largo, have begun showing up on flats everywhere in between.

The Keys’ redfish and snook usually require some coaxing out from their mangrove hideaways — but once hooked, these backcountry brutes will test even the most experienced angler.

Angler Doug Easter and his guide are ecstatic with a permit caught and released while fishing off the Lower Keys. (Photo by Steve Bly, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Backcountry species are year-round Keys residents. Temperature-sensitive bonefish can be caught all year long, but the prime months are September through November. Tarpon come close to Keys bridges from April through July. Permit are on the flats in the greatest numbers from April through September, while redfish and snook fishing is best from December through July.

The shallow unmarked waters of Florida Bay can be confusing, so it’s smart to hire an experienced backcountry guide.

FYI, you must abide by Florida fishing regulations, which define bag limits and closed seasons, and you’ll need a saltwater fishing license — available at many bait and tackle shops or here.

And trust me … whatever species you’re seeking, once you’ve tried fishing Keys waters, you’ll be hooked!

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, On the Water, Voices Main Archive

February is just around the corner and Key West is buzzing with visitors — and us locals meeting, greeting, serving, and socializing with the crowd. This past weekend on the gay trolley tour, I chatted with visitors from New Jersey, New Orleans, Atlanta and Pennsylvania. They were so glad to be away from the snow and cold and enjoying our warmth!

On Key West's gay trolley tour, passengers learn about the island city's LGBT sites, history and highlights.

The week started off with some excellent news for Key West: the island won several awards in the Amazing Gay Travel Award competition. We were named the best city for unity between gays and straights, and tied with San Francisco as the best city for unity between gays and lesbians — both of which speak well for the island’s famed “One Human Family” attitude.

In addition, Key West’s Island House was named the best moderately priced gay guesthouse and earned kudos for having the hottest hotel pool scene in Florida.

There’s so much going on these days. The Red Barn Theatre recently opened the hilarious musical “Sister Robert Anne’s Cabaret Class,” the newest of the smash-hit “Nunsense” musicals.

Nuns and cabaret seem an unlikely pairing ... unless you're watching the Red Barn's hilarious “Sister Robert Anne’s Cabaret Class."

The play depicts the streetwise Sister Robert Anne teaching a class the art of cabaret. If you loved the “Nunsense” performances, you can’t miss this show — but be ready to hold your sides while you’re laughing.

On a different note, the Waterfront Playhouse is showing the Pulitzer Prize and Tony Award winner “Glengarry Glen Ross.” Tough times call for tough measures in a Chicago real estate office where four hungry, backstabbing salesmen peddle questionable investments in a top-dog contest. It’s a tensely engaging comedic drama — and, boy, is that a mouthful!

The 51st annual Key West House and Garden Tours, among my favorite happenings on the island, are on my radar for Feb. 18 and 19. You get to go inside a series of locals’ elegant and unique homes, and it’s amazing what you’ll see. I’ve opened my home a couple of times for the tours and had a blast with the participants.

With luck, these Key West papayas will be ready for eating soon!

(Also I’ve been a volunteer guide for the tours — until the organizers found out I was making up my own stories about the houses and the famous people that had graced their thresholds. I thought my stories were hysterical entertainment, though not historically accurate. Heck, it is Key West!)

I stopped in the Orchid Key Inn on Duval Street the other night. This is the former Key Lodge motel totally renovated into a classy 24-room boutique hotel.

They serve a daily breakfast for guests and offer a complimentary happy hour. We locals can visit the Orchid Bar for our favorite libations — served in lovely glassware in an intimate lounge surrounded by gardens and waterfalls. It’s easy to forget you’re just steps off busy Duval.

Official "Blog Dog" Giulio shows off his extraordinary jumping skills.

I recently read a USA Today column by openly gay writer Craig Wilson, which included a troubling report that scientists have determined sleeping with your pet carries a risk of illness. Craig and his partner of 26 years, Jack, not only sleep with their dog Maggie, they even kiss her. Well, I must confess that Giulio, my Italian Greyhound, not only kisses me but also sleeps with me — and many times shares my pillow. He also jumps a three-foot hurdle and barks at me when I’m swimming. Imagine me telling him he can’t share my bed!!!

I’m off shortly for the LGBT Travel Expo in Atlanta and then to Fort Lauderdale. Stop by and visit the Key West booth.

Lastly, I’m keeping watch on my papaya (or pawpaw) fruit tree. There must be a male pawpaw nearby or I would never have so much fruit. Soon it’ll turn golden and be ready for devouring. Yummmm!

Topics: Arts, Events, Key West, LGBT

The Florida Keys & Key West aren’t just another vacation destination where you arrive, soak up some sun on a pretty beach, maybe do a little shopping or take a sightseeing tour, sample the local cuisine and depart — essentially unchanged — after a few days.

Is your passion fishing off Islamorada as the sun goes down? (Photo by Bob Krist, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Sure, you can do all those things just about anywhere along the 125-mile subtropical island chain. But the destination’s vibrant and multifaceted opportunities mean you can (and should) do far more than passively “see the Keys” or “visit the Keys.”

Let’s face it — these days, when too many people are settling for a life that’s passive and bland, don’t you deserve to break out and throw yourself into an experience that makes your senses tingle? Well, that’s what you’ll find in the Florida Keys.

The Keys combine the features of a welcoming American small town and those of a Caribbean outpost rich in mañana mindset, irreverent humor and unexpected joys. So if you escape the winter chill by heading for these unique and individualistic islands, experience them with zest and exuberance — as a participatory adventure.

Or maybe you crave exploring the Keys' living coral reef, a realm of unparalleled natural beauty.

For example, try kiteboarding for the first time, fueled by the ever-present breeze on the shallow flats of the Middle Keys. Catch and release a silvery tarpon off Islamorada, feeling that throat-catching wonder when you let it slip back into its saltwater home. Savor cool, tart Key lime pie at a waterfront restaurant while the sound of an island band sets your feet tapping. Dive into the spectacular underwater world off Key Largo and discover continental North America’s only living coral barrier reef.

Whether the adventures are large or small, a Keys vacation can fill your senses and leave you feeling vibrantly alive. Equally important, in the Keys’ easygoing atmosphere, you’ll find the freedom to make personal connections with the things and people that matter to you.

Reconnect with your kids by sharing the thrill of a swim with friendly dolphins in a saltwater habitat. Connect with the natural world while kayaking through the tranquil Lower Keys backcountry, watching the graceful sway and dance of sea birds and tropical fish.

You might even want to reconnect with your artistic side in the Keys -- assisted by a friendly dolphin. (Photo courtesy of Dolphin Research Center)

Reawaken your creativity during classes and seminars led by Keys artists and artisans, or satisfy your sense of heritage by following the route of the historic Overseas Railway. Make a lasting difference during your vacation by helping to preserve the Keys coral reef environment. Or reconnect with your significant other on a slow, romantic sunset sail followed by a water’s-edge seafood dinner under the stars.

I was lucky enough to stumble upon the Keys 30 years ago, when the pace was a little lazier and the island chain was spiced by a renegade, end-of-the-world flavor that was completely irresistible. After two days in Key West, I realized I’d found my home — and that feeling has never changed.

Maybe your visit won’t inspire you to make the Florida Keys your forever home. But if you immerse yourself in the Keys experience, you’ll forge your own connection with the offbeat, magical islands … as you reconnect with your priorities and the person you really want to be.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, Voices Main Archive

Proving the old saying that a song can change lives, Gloria Teague was forever changed by the James Brown tune “I Feel Good.” In fact, it turned the dive master into a bakery owner and the purveyor of “the best bunz in town.”

As well as karaoke, Gloria Teague enjoys conch shell "musicianship."

It all started when Gloria heard pastry chef Robert Spencer Jr. sing his karaoke version of the iconic hit. She was so impressed by his talent that she approached him and said, “That was amazing. I’ve got to know you.”

Just a few years later, the two friends became the masterminds behind the Islamorada Restaurant & Bakery, a local favorite affectionately known as Bob’s Bunz.

Originally from Washington D.C., Gloria moved to central Florida with her family when she was 10 years old. During family vacations camping in the Keys, she fell in love with diving and Keys waters.

Later, eager to move to the island chain, she took a casual comment made by Captain Spencer Slate of Atlantis Dive Center (“Well, when you’re ready to move, let me know”) as a job offer. She arrived in the Keys in 1990 and worked with Captain Slate for several years before opening her own dive shop, Lady Cyana.

Clearly enjoying herself, Gloria takes the wheel during a seafaring excursion.

“The dive business was very difficult,” Gloria admitted. “In fact, the restaurant business is probably the only thing that’s more difficult — and that’s what I’m doing now.”

After Gloria and Robert Spencer met at karaoke, their friendship blossomed while she worked as a dive master and he worked as the chef for the Islamorada Restaurant & Bakery’s then-owner.

When the place went up for sale, Robert approached Gloria about buying it with him. Despite having no restaurant experience, she decided to trade in her scuba tank for cinnamon buns.

“The only thing that qualified me to own a restaurant is that I’ve eaten out every day of my adult life,” she quipped. “But Rob is a great teacher and I learned in dog years.”

Today, the restaurant is known for friendly service, elegant wedding cakes and the gigantic cinnamon and sticky buns Robert creates — giving it the nickname Bob’s Bunz. (FYI, the buns are so large that Gloria is convinced the Overseas Highway weigh station at mile marker 80 was put up because of all the calories consumed at Bob’s Bunz.)

Adorning the walls of the partners’ laidback emporium are many T-shirts and novelties Gloria created — bearing their catchphrase “the best bunz in town” and other sayings like “bite my bunz.”

Gloria and Robert's eatery is casual and welcoming ... and has become a Keys legend for its world-class cinnamon and sticky "bunz."

“My goal is for everyone to leave with something in their hands,” she said, “and not just in their tummies.”

Gloria admits she loves working with people, especially the many brides and grooms whose wedding cakes the bakery designs. They prepare between 300 and 400 wedding cakes per year, and the most popular is their Key lime cake. It’s so delicious, she boasts, that she’s never met anyone who didn’t like it.

She and Bob’s Bunz strive to serve consistent, high-quality food and test their success by making sure everyone walks out of the restaurant “hugging their bellies.”

“We’re not interested in being a bigger better place like chain restaurants — we’re just interested in being the best we can be,” she stressed. “We want to grow, but still be friendly and fun.”

When she’s not working, Gloria Teague spends time riding her bike around the Upper Keys, diving the reefs or exploring her favorite spot, Windley Key, which she calls the area’s best undiscovered tourist attraction.

And every Sunday night, she and Robert Spencer still can be found at karaoke at Key Largo’s Coconuts Restaurant & Lounge — the spot where they first met and a song changed their lives.

Topics: Food, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Local Color, Profiles, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

It’s hard to believe that we’re halfway through January. Our guesthouses are hopping and Florida is the only state in the union with no snow (we’ve never had a frost here in Key West, so snow is pretty much out of the question). Recently I met visitors from Seattle, New York City, Chicago and Portland, Ore. All were glad for our sunshine and much-warmer-than-home breezes.

Cristian (at left) and Giulio chill out with blog author Steve Smith at Key West's favorite Tree Bar.

My friend Cristian Medina spent the day with me last Saturday. We took my Italian Greyhound, Giulio, to the Tree Bar to visit Ramey the mixologist and have a glass of fresh-squeezed pink grapefruit juice.

We then strolled to Mallory Square for the sunset celebration and watched some of the performers. It was Cristian and Giulio’s first time at the sunset festivities — be sure to experience this on your next visit.

Over the last week I played host to a couple of travel writers. Paul Rubio from Fort Lauderdale spent a few nights on the island visiting some attractions, restaurants, and catching the nightlife. Paul contributes to Amazing Gay Travel on Mark’s List, Fodor’s, and several gay publications.

The Ghosts & Gravestones trolley carries passengers on a journey to Key West's spooky side. (Photo courtesy of Historic Tours of America)

Following Paul came the arrival of Gordon Hopps, the editor of London’s Bent Magazine. Gordon and his partner, Colin, last visited the Keys 20 years ago. Their Key West memories surged to the forefront and they were able to visit several of their haunts from their long-ago visit.

On Tuesday evening we “haunted” them with a nighttime Ghosts & Gravestones Frightseeing Tour. An hour before the tour, the island was mysteriously blanketed with a fog that swirled around the buildings and streets. Boy, did it add another dimension to the tour!

Many of us on the island have pets — birds, cats, fish, and of course dogs. I’ve been taking Giulio to Raul Hernandez’ dog school. Raul is truly a dog whisperer (and after two years of schooling, Giulio finally learned to drive … but that’s another story!).

Steve spotted this Key West flower about to open during one of his morning walks with Giulio..

Many of us travel with our pets and, in Key West, you and your four-legged family members are welcome at many guesthouses. I suggest that you ask about the pet policies, what additional deposits or cleaning fees there might be, and the size limit for pets.

Some of the properties that welcome our four-legged friends are the Chelsea House, the Equator Resort, the Island House, the Casa Marina and the Reach, Ambrosia Key West, and the Doubletree Grand Key Resort.

If you’re into sailing, take note that Key West Race Week celebrates its 24th year on the emerald and lapis Keys waters Jan. 17-21. This is a world-class sailing competition drawing teams from at least 15 countries and more than 24 American states. The horizon filled with colorful sails is a sight to behold.

By the next morning, it was in full bloom.

Speaking of sights, we have flowers here that bloom year-round. I spotted the bud pictured above one morning while I was walking Giulio, and the next day it popped open. Our orchids are in full bloom these days and soon the frangipani will burst with yellow, red, and pink blossoms.

This past Saturday was the annual Florida Keys Seafood Festival in a local park and the opening of the annual Sculpture Key West exhibition at three historic sites. It’s a busy period on the island, so until next time … cheers!

Topics: Animal Ambassadors, Key West, LGBT

What does a former president do when he wants to take a laid-back holiday vacation with his family? If he’s Jimmy Carter, he gathers up the clan and heads for the Florida Keys.

Former President Jimmy Carter grins delightedly as he holds a juvenile green sea turtle at Marathon's Turtle Hospital. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Actually, former President Carter, his wife Rosalynn and assorted family members spent a post-Christmas sojourn in the Middle Keys, staying at the lovely Hawks Cay Resort on Duck Key. But while the visit wasn’t widely publicized, they didn’t hibernate in their Hawks Cay villas (which I can tell you from personal experience are casually elegant, pleasantly private and perfect for hibernation).

Instead, like other vacationing families, they immersed themselves in the Keys’ activities and water sports. They even did some light-tackle fishing, catching more than 70 fish from 12 different species (including about 15 snapper and Spanish mackerel that they took home for dinner). And according to their captain, Rich Tudor with the Saltwater Experience, the former commander-in-chief is quite an agile angler.

As president, Carter had experiences beyond most people’s wildest dreams — yet he seemed to be genuinely fascinated by one Keys experience in particular: helping Richie Moretti, founder of Marathon’s Turtle Hospital, and his crew release a rehabilitated loggerhead sea turtle named Danger into the Atlantic Ocean.

Former President Carter (right) displays a Spanish mackerel he caught while fishing off the Florida Keys with Captain Rich Tudor (left). (Photo by Derek Rust, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The 102-pound turtle had spent three months recuperating at the hospital, the world’s only licensed veterinary facility dedicated to treating and rehabilitating sea turtles, after he was found lethargic and floating off the Lower Keys.

The Turtle Hospital crew treated Danger with antibiotics, IV fluids and a healthy diet of squid, shrimp and fish. By Christmas, he was thriving and ready for release.

When the Carters arrived at the Turtle Hospital, they first took a tour of the unique facility. Jimmy Carter’s famous smile flashed out when he “met” the  patients, with Rosalynn by his side and family members gathered around, and then held a turtle with gentle hands.

Jimmy Carter and his family watch Danger, a loggerhead sea turtle, walk into the ocean off the Florida Keys. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

“To see the care that’s given to the individual turtles, even those that can’t be released and are cared for all their lives, is really a wonderful indication of altruism in its finest form,” the former president said.

Afterwards, President Carter helped Richie and his crew carry Danger to the water’s edge in a special white container. When they set him down on the sand, with unerring instinct, the rehabilitated turtle headed straight into the water.

“It’s an exciting thing not only for the people that work [at the Turtle Hospital] but for people who can visit and see this relationship between human beings and nature that you don’t see often enough,” said Carter, who watched Danger swim away into his natural habitat.

The holiday vacation in the Keys wasn’t the first for Carter and his family. In 1996, they had New Year’s Eve dinner at the Harry S. Truman Little White House in Key West, former President Truman’s “vacation White House” and Florida’s only presidential museum. The Carters returned there for a visit in December 2007 during a cruise ship stopover.

Topics: Animal Ambassadors, Events, Highlights, Marathon, On the Water, Voices Main Archive