Keys February, 2011

Tales from the ‘Presidential Fishbowl’

On a recent list compiled by the leading online travel site Sherman’s Travel, Key West ranked among the top 10 getaways of American presidents. That’s no surprise to Key Westers. After all, Harry Truman spent nearly six months of his 1945-1953 presidency vacationing and working at a Key West retreat that became known worldwide as his Little White House.

Presidential descendants (from left) Margaret Hoover, Susan Ford Bales, Luci Baines Johnson and Clifton Truman Daniel gather at the LIttle White House. (All photos by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Presidential descendants (from left) Margaret Hoover, Susan Ford Bales, Luci Baines Johnson and Clifton Truman Daniel gather at the LIttle White House. (All photos by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In fact, his headquarters (now restored to be Florida’s only presidential museum) has also welcomed former presidents Dwight Eisenhower, John Kennedy, Jimmy Carter and Bill Clinton.

Key West and the Little White House are even popular with the children, grandchildren and even great-grandchildren of presidents — as a President’s Day Weekend event at the house proved. Four descendants of presidents held an audience spellbound while they told family stories, occasionally teased each other, and offered a rare glimpse of life in the “presidential fishbowl.”

The informal, unscripted open-air presentation featured Luci Baines Johnson and Susan Ford Bales (daughters of former presidents Lyndon Johnson and Gerald Ford), who both lived in the White House as teenagers. Joining them were Truman’s grandson Clifton Truman Daniel and Margaret Hoover, great-granddaughter of former president Herbert Hoover.

Susan Ford Bales (center) reveals tales of White House dating as Margaret Hoover (left) and Luci Baines Johnson smile appreciatively..

Susan Ford Bales (center) reveals tales of White House dating as Margaret Hoover (left) and Luci Baines Johnson smile appreciatively.

Luci and Susan recalled experiences ranging from witnessing protesters picket against their fathers to going on dates with an entourage of Secret Service agents.

“We know how to date with Secret Service and how to ditch a date, which is the advantage of having the Secret Service,” Susan informed the audience as Luci smiled her agreement. Not only did she manage to date during her tenure as first daughter — Susan also had her high school senior prom at the White House!

“We didn’t spike the punch because of all the security,” she added with a wry chuckle.

In addition, she talked about traveling to China with her father, meeting Chairman Mao, and taking a lighthearted break at one of the world’s most historic spots.

Luci Baines Johnson (far right) honored the first ladies' influence, wearing a dress her mother once wore in the White House.

Luci Baines Johnson (far right) honored the first ladies' influence, wearing a dress her mother once wore in the White House.

“I threw a Frisbee on the Great Wall of China,” she admitted.

Luci Baines Johnson shared memories of watching her father sign a bill establishing Medicare and champion civil rights despite bitter opposition. She also recalled accompanying him on what the family called “daddy duty.”

But it was the influence of her mother, the gracious Lady Bird Johnson, that guided her choice of wardrobe for her Little White House visit.

“The dress I have on tonight was worn by my mother in the White House,” said Luci of her long-sleeved, quietly elegant pink dress. “She would have loved to have been here tonight.”

In addition to sharing glimpses into their presidential forebears’ personal lives, the quartet spoke about public misperceptions of them and the responsibility of their family legacies.

Clifton Truman Daniel (left) didn't learn about his family heritage until he was 6 years old.

Clifton Truman Daniel (left) didn't learn about his family heritage until he was 6 years old.

“I really didn’t remember when I wasn’t walking in a very significant shadow,” said Luci in her soft southern voice. “As long as you draw breath, everything you say and do reflects not just on you and your family, but reflects on the presidency — this is the greatest privilege that any family will ever have.”

Clifton, whose mother was former President Truman’s daughter Margaret, didn’t find out about his heritage until he was a 6-year-old first-grade student.

“My teacher walked up to me one of the first days in school and said, ‘Wasn’t your grandfather president of the United States?’” he recounted with a grin. “And I brilliantly replied, ‘I don’t know. I’ll go home and ask.’”

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March Means Drag, Drama and a Chance to ‘Think Pink’

The Florida Keys are in full swing for the 2011 winter season. Duval Street is buzzing with visitors walking, biking, and riding those fun (beep beep!) mopeds.

Bingo games on Sundays, directed by the lovely and talented Mitch, are among the reasons to come to Key West this spring.

Bingo games on Sundays, directed by the lovely and talented Mitch, are among the reasons to come to Key West this spring.

The recent blast of cold weather up north sent people packing their bags and heading to the island. Our airport has seen record passenger numbers and the enlarged terminal and arrivals lounge have been rolling out the red carpets.

FYI, Key West is served by American Airlines, Delta Airlines, AirTran, Continental Connection, US Airways, and Cape Air. Not only do we have the usual commuter aircraft, but we also now have large 737 jets with two classes of service (yes, you can fly First Class to Key West from Orlando, Atlanta, and Charlotte).

The nightlife here is in full swing too. Catch the 9 p.m. show at Aqua with Inga and the girls (two of whom you’ll also see at Key West International Airport when you check in!). Sushi and her gang dazzle the crowd in the Cabaret at 801 at 9 p.m. and 11 p.m. And don’t miss the infamous Sunday afternoon bingo games hosted by Key West’s Mitch, who’s like a chameleon with a different outfit and theme every week.

La Te Da’s bars and cabaret offer Debra & Patrick, Tea Dance every Sunday at 4 p.m., and live entertainment in the Crystal Room. The Bourbon St. Pub offers a taste of New Orleans with music videos, live entertainment, and male dancers as well as a heated swimming pool to cool down after a hot day or night. Bourbon St. also stages “Pink Patty’s Weekend” celebrating St. Patrick’s Day in Key West style.

Walk down one of Key West's picturesque side streets, and you're likely to see blossoming bougainvillea spilling exuberantly over fences.

Walk down one of Key West's picturesque side streets, and you're likely to see blossoming bougainvillea spilling exuberantly over fences.

Bobby’s Monkey Bar offers a fun chance to mingle with the locals, shoot a game of pool, sing some karaoke, and play Wii (be sure to check their chalk holder by the pool table!).

March brings “Dirty Rotten Scoundrels” to the Waterfront Playhouse, where con men seduce and swindle rich women on the Riviera. It’s a hysterical battle of wits! Plus, the Red Barn Theatre showcases “Becky’s New Car,” a zippy comedy based on a road trip.

March also means the 49th annual Conch Shell Blowing Contest, where you can see how easy (or hard) it is to blow the Keys’ signature pink-lined shell. Also on the roster are several impromptu concerts at St. Paul’s Episcopal Church, and several shows at the Tennessee Williams Theatre.

Unfortunately, I won’t be spending much time in Key West in March. If you’re in Berlin, Germany, you can catch me at the ITB International Travel Show. Or if you’re in New York City, I’ll be at the Original LBGT Business Expo held at the Javits Center March 12-13.

Spring is the season to spot vivid birds of paradise in Key West.

Spring is the season to spot vivid birds of paradise in Key West.

At the end of the month, look for me at Pridefest of the Palm Beaches in Lake Worth, Fla., followed by Miami Beach Pride.

I will have loads of information about the Keys and Key West, and be there to answer all your questions!

Last but not least, March brings us bougainvillea blooms in orange, pink, red, and white. Look around and you’ll also see our white birds of paradise — another reason to love this season in Key West.

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Keys Cabs Invade Britain … and Bookstores!

Nearly 50 years ago, one of the most popular exports Britain has ever produced, four longhaired musicians known as the Beatles, took the U.S. by storm. Recently, the U.S. has reversed the situation — taking London and Manchester by storm with six taxicabs wrapped bumper-to-bumper in colorful Florida Keys images.

Key Wester Stacey Mitchell smilingly shows off the fleet of four-wheeled Florida Keys ambassadors plying U.K. streets. (Photo by Paul Demuth, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Key Wester Stacey Mitchell smilingly shows off the fleet of four-wheeled Florida Keys ambassadors plying U.K. streets. (Photo by Paul Demuth, Florida Keys News Bureau)

These four-wheeled ambassadors are parading the Keys’ subtropical lifestyle, balmy weather and laid-back atmosphere to an audience of Britishers tired of gray, bone-chilling winter days and nights. The concept, naturally, was dreamed up by the Keys’ tourism council to encourage Brits to escape to the island chain.

But the colorful Keys artistry, pretty well guaranteed to make people smile as the cabs pass by, isn’t just an exterior makeover. Passengers who hail the vibrant vehicles will discover a pair of jump seats decked with Keys logos and imagery, designed to give their cab rides an enticing tropical flavor.

Back in the island chain (Key West, anyway) colorful cabs ply the streets as well. These quirky conveyances are pink — and it’s not a modest pale rose color, either. Actually, they’re so pink it’s a wonder they don’t glow in the dark.

These hot-pink hybrids are a favorite form of transport in eco-conscious Key West. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

These hot-pink hybrids are a favorite form of transport in eco-conscious Key West. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In fact, when I first arrived In Key West in the late 1970s and emerged from the then-ramshackle airport, I was startled and amused to discover a pink taxi awaiting me. As it carried me into the historic Old Town district, past blue water and along narrow palm-fringed streets, my love affair with the island began.

But their hot-pink color isn’t the only thing that sets Key West’s cabs apart. They’re navigated, for the most part, by friendly and engaging local drivers who can spin a yarn better that most. And on top of that, they benefit the environment.

The pink cabs went “green” a couple of years back — when Key West’s Five Sixes Taxi debuted 10 environmentally friendly hybrid vehicles as the first step in converting its entire fleet. And according to the Taxi, Limousine and Paratransit Association (who knew such a group existed?), Five Sixes was the first taxi company in Florida to roll out hybrids.

Take a ride through wacky and wonderful Key West with Michael Suib's book, "Confessions of a Key West Cabby."

Take a ride through wacky and wonderful Key West with Michael Suib's book, "Confessions of a Key West Cabby."

Speaking of Key West cabbies, probably the best known — at least a few years ago — was Michael Suib. That’s because Michael wrote a column for the “Miami Herald” newspaper about his experiences piloting a pink cab. Eventually he morphed the column into a zany, totally marvelous book titled “Confessions of a Key West Cabby.”

As you might imagine, since eccentricity is widely prized on the southernmost island, Michael’s book includes some pretty wild tales. With offbeat, merciless humor, he depicts Key West’s character and characters … whether real, seemingly unreal or flagrantly stranger than fiction.

Michael is no longer a cab driver, but you can find his book at Amazon.com and many other outlets.

The best place to read the volume is on a Key West beach, before hopping into a pink hybrid to go meet friends for a cold drink (or, secondarily, in a Keys-themed cab on the streets of London or Manchester). But if you can’t do that, just peruse its pages wherever you are — to get a hilarious and genuine glimpse of the Keys.

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‘Old Clothes’ and Cuban Culture Flavor Key West

Sample the sweetness of fried plantains served with lime-kissed pork chops. Sway to the infectious rhythms of an outdoor salsa band. Savor the rush of caffeine from a shot of café con leche sold by a smiling vendor. And as you do, breathe a fervent “thank you” for the Cuban heritage that enlivens and enhances Key West.

Revelers in Cuban dress conga down Key West's Duval Street during a festival celebrating the Cuban culture. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Revelers in Cuban dress conga down Key West's Duval Street during a festival celebrating the Cuban culture. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Key West is located just 90 miles from Cuba, and the two islands have a cultural connection that dates back almost 180 years.

In the early 1830s, Cuban people began migrating to Key West in search of personal freedom. Among them were scores of skilled cigar-makers who quickly founded factories. By the mid- to late-1800s, Key West was known as the cigar manufacturing capital of the world — producing an astonishing 100 million hand-rolled cigars each year.

Given this rich heritage, it’s no surprise that Cuban food is the most popular ethnic cuisine in Key West. Cuban delicacies include ropa vieja (which, translated literally, means “old clothes” !!!!). Fear not, however — it’s actually a fabulous concoction of shredded beef, tomatoes, green peppers, onions and red wine.

Picadillo, a seasoned ground beef, is another favorite — as are pork chunks marinated in lime and garlic or mojo criollo marinade. Cuban entrees are typically served with black beans, yellow rice, Cuban bread and fried plantains that add a lovely sweetness.

El Siboney's specialties include this savory dish served with traditional yellow rice and sweet plantains. (Photo courtesy of El Siboney)

El Siboney's specialties include this savory dish served with traditional yellow rice and sweet plantains. (Photo courtesy of El Siboney)

For a lighter meal, try a traditional Cuban mix sandwich — a blend of meats and cheeses on Cuban bread flattened in a press that looks like a waffle iron. (Oddly enough, you can get the best Cuban mixes at a take-out window beside a Key West laundromat.)

If you’re seeking a sit-down meal, try the authentic Cuban fare at two leading Key West restaurants.

El Siboney is an out-of-the-way spot in a quiet residential neighborhood. Since 1984, the inexpensive family-friendly eatery has served Cuban specialties including world-class roast chicken (and world-class portions; these chickens clearly worked out with weights). Accompanied by black beans and yellow rice, Cuban bread and sweet plantains, the chicken is perfectly seasoned and so tender it practically falls off the bone.

Of course El Siboney also offers ropa vieja, picadillo, savory roast pork and much more.

Great food and great fun rule at El Meson de Pepe. (Photo courtesy of El Meson de Pepe)

Great food and great fun rule at El Meson de Pepe. (Photo courtesy of El Meson de Pepe)

And don’t miss El Meson de Pepe, which stands next to Key West’s Mallory Square (site of the renowned nightly sunset celebration). It offers indoor dining in a huge room decorated with intriguing Cuban-themed memorabilia — plus outdoor dining in a unique and wonderful garden festooned with lights. A Latin band plays every night to entice kids, oldsters and everyone in between to dance.

El Meson’s specialties include Cuban pork dishes, ropa vieja and picadillo, and of course black beans and rice with Cuban bread. Believe it or not, the menu also offers wonderful chicken wings marinated in mojo criollo.

FYI, you can immerse yourself in Key West’s Cuban heritage at the Cuban Cultural Exposition, held March 13-26 at the beautiful Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden — an arboretum, garden, wildlife refuge and educational center located at the island’s entrance.

The canvases of Cuban artist Sandy Rico are spotlighted during the Cuban Cultural Exposition. (Photo courtesy of Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden)

The canvases of Cuban artist Sandy Rico are spotlighted during the Cuban Cultural Exposition. (Photo courtesy of Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden)

The festival’s attractions include a domino tournament, Cuban cooking class, lively dance exhibition and lecture on Cuba’s medicinal herbs and plants, plus a spotlight on the dramatic canvases of Cuban artist Sandy Rico.

You’ll also find an exhibit titled “Viva Cuba Libre — The Chugs of Cuba,” featuring photos of primitive makeshift vessels (called chugs) that carried more recent Cuban refugees to freedom.

The undisputed highlight, however, is Hot Havana Nights, a lavish Latin party at the garden set for 7 p.m. Saturday, March 26. There you can dance to the sounds of Havana Soul while enjoying mojitos, authentic Cuban food, fine cigars, and an auction of handmade Cuban crafts and artistry — a perfect celebration of the historic connection between Key West and its neighbor 90 mlles across the water.

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Travel Expos and Events Rock the Key West Calendar

Wow, what a busy last couple of weeks! Among other things, I exhibited at two great LGBT travel expos. The Atlanta event was held on a Sunday afternoon with good attendance. A lot of the attendees had not yet visited the Keys, so I had an excellent opportunity to tell them about our islands and the fun things to do here.

Blog author Steve Smith and Mona Rainer exhibit Key West -- along with some popular "poster boys."

Blog author Steve Smith and Mona Rainer exhibit Key West -- along with some popular "poster boys."

I also caught up with a few friends from years past who are now coming in this March.  One couple has never visited Key West and, since they’re owners of an Atlanta gay sports bar, I think they will enjoy the getaway — and I’m certain they’ll fall in love with our lifestyle. My Delta Airlines colleagues also exhibited at the expo, and it’s always fun to see them (and remind them of Delta’s daily non-stop jets from Atlanta to Key West!).

Then I zipped to Fort Lauderdale for another LGBT travel expo. There was a good mix of attendees, and several of my work friends that I’ve not seen in a while stopped by. Mona Lisa Rainer with Key West’s new Lexington Hotel worked the booth with me.  She represents four different hotels and does a great job of telling people about the Keys.

Back at home, official "blog dog" Giulio was disappointed that his Steelers lost the Super Bowl, but he had a blast at his Super Bowl party!

Back at home, official "blog dog" Giulio was doggone disappointed that his Steelers lost the Super Bowl.

The expo attendees love my banner with local boys’ butts showing (though I couldn’t reproduce it entirely above!). People seem to really like having their picture taken with the group, and I always laugh when they recognize one or two of the boys on the banner.

The latest buzz is the new Florida Keys gay television ad running on LOGO and mainstream networks including HGTV. My sister-in-law called Monday night, having just seen the ad.  Check it out — its theme is “out before it was in.”

Travel writer Ed Salvato visited Key West recently to refresh his memories of the island and discover new material for his radio travel show and his columns on OutTraveler.com. In addition, Kirk Williamson, editor of Windy City Media’s Nightspots Magazine, was to visit a week or so ago.  However Kirk, a Chicago resident, was trapped in the blizzard of 2011 and sent the fun picture shown here.

Kirk was not happy with the Chicago weather that meant a canceled flight and no getaway to the balmy Keys.

Kirk was not happy with the Chicago blizzard that meant a canceled flight and no getaway to the balmy Keys.

Fabulous entertainer Randy Roberts has returned his show “Randy Roberts Live” to the Crystal Room Cabaret at Key West’s famed La Te Da. Randy has performed in Las Vegas, Provincetown, Hawaii, New York and Atlanta. Check out his website and call La Te Da to book a seat and see him live on stage.

President’s Day is rapidly approaching and the Keys calendar is packed with activities for the three-day weekend.  The Red Barn Theatre is presenting “A Musical Tour About Town” with a quartet of fun local musicians and vocalists; the Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden will host its annual Gardenfest with arts and crafts, workshops, and garden tours; and The Studios of Key West presents Josh White Jr. — Tony Award-winning actor and singer of folk, blues, jazz, and gospel — on Feb. 19.

While Chicago shivers, the mango trees are in bloom in Key West.

While Chicago shivers, the mango trees are blooming in Key West.

If you’re walking or bicycling around Key West, take a look at the mango trees. They have burst forth with their blooms for the upcoming fruit season. Toward the end of May the trees will be covered with orange, yellow, and green mangoes ready to highlight a dinner or salsa dish. They also cover the island with an indescribable fragrance that blends with the frangipani blossoms.

Till next time …

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Arnold’s Exploding Bridge … and Other Keys Fun Facts

Once upon a time, during an action-packed confrontation between Arnold Schwarzenegger and a pack of bad guys, missile strikes blew up the Florida Keys’ Seven Mile Bridge.

Despite the advent of Arnold and company, the Seven Mile Bridge is in excellent shape. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Despite the advent of Arnold and company, the Seven Mile Bridge is in excellent shape. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Okay, that statement isn’t STRICTLY true, but it’s based on fact — one of many facts about the Keys that are offbeat, slightly improbable and add an engagingly weird vibe to the colorful island chain.

It seems that in 1993, before he became California’s governor, Arnold starred in a film called “True Lies” that was shot partially in the Keys. The story, about a spy whose personal and professional lives collided in a madcap caper, involved a sequence of helicopter stunts and an explosion on the iconic Middle Keys bridge.

Needless to say, it wasn’t the real bridge — but the narrow expanse of roadway unrolling above blue water sure looked like the real thing.

Throughout the Keys, you’ll hear stories that sound as unlikely as the saga of Arnold and the exploding bridge. Some are flat-out tall tales, but a surprising number are true.

For example …

Even Elvis has been spotted at the Underwater Music Festival performing for "sea fans." (Photo by Bill Keogh, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Even Elvis has been spotted at the Underwater Music Festival performing for "sea fans." (Photo by Bill Keogh, Florida Keys News Bureau)

FUN FACT ONE: Key Largo is the site of the world’s only underwater hotel. It’s called Jules’ Undersea Lodge, and dive enthusiasts can spend the night there, with amenities including room service, among the marine life of the Keys. Imagine waking up to see vivid-colored fish peering into your bedroom window, trying to catch a glimpse of the creatures unexpectedly sharing their habitat.

FUN FACT TWO: Speaking of unusual things beneath the sea, every year the Lower Keys stage what is probably the world’s only Underwater Music Festival. The quirky annual concert draws divers, snorkelers, curious fish and even characters costumed as mermaids and other mythical denizens of the deep. It’s held at Looe Key Reef, acclaimed as a world-class dive site, and spotlights the need for reef protection.

FUN FACT THREE: Moving from oceanic to land-based eccentricities, many visitors to Key West are surprised to find roosters and chickens running wild in the historic Old Town neighborhood. The free-range fowl are supposedly the descendents of chickens kept for food and roosters bred for cockfights before the practice was outlawed. Today, at Key West’s funky Blue Heaven (a renowned eatery whose fans include singer/songwriter Jimmy Buffett) “breakfast with the roosters” is served in an outdoor courtyard where resident hens and chicks wander freely.

At Dolphin Research Center, friendly dolphins display an unexpected talent -- for math! (Photo courtesy of Dolphin Research Center)

At Dolphin Research Center, friendly dolphins display an unexpected talent -- for math! (Photo courtesy of Dolphin Research Center)

FUN FACT FOUR: In the Middle Keys (yes, the area where Arnold had his adventure on the Seven Mile Bridge), dolphins instead of chickens take center stage — for their math skills! That’s because Dolphin Research Center, a renowned Middle Keys research and educational facility that’s home to a family of Atlantic bottlenose dolphins, spearheaded a groundbreaking study that shows dolphins can perform simple math equations — identifying simple math and distinguishing the difference between numbers they see on a board.

FUN FACT FIVE: The Lower Keys can’t boast mathematical dolphins, but in December 2009 they were the site of another rare phenomenon: snow. Now, bear in mind that weather forecasters have never officially recorded snow in the Keys. But on Christmas 2009, the white stuff mysteriously blanketed the home of musician Howard Livingston. Come to find out, Howard had won The Weather Channel’s nationwide “Guaranteed White Christmas” contest — and, despite the approximately 80-degree temps, a snowmaking and special effects company created the surprising subtropical snowfall.

Want additional Keys fun facts to startle and amaze your friends? Trust me, there are plenty of them. So check back to Keys Voices periodically to find out more reasons why, in the wacky and wonderful island chain, truth is definitely stranger than fiction.

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