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Keys December, 2011

Why the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad Centennial Really Matters

Standard Oil millionaire Henry Flagler conceived the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad in the early 1900s, and the first train traveled from the Florida mainland to Key West Jan. 22, 1912. Today historians credit the railroad, officially named the Key West Extension of the Florida East Coast Railway, with making possible the evolution of the modern Florida Keys.

Seth Bramson displays a signal lantern from the original Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Seth Bramson displays a signal lantern from the original Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Seth Bramson is a company historian for the Florida East Coast Railway and author of “The Greatest Railroad Story Ever Told: Henry Flagler and the Florida East Coast Railway’s Key West Extension,” the recently released history of the engineering and construction of the railroad that stretched more than 100 miles over open water.

A celebration commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Over-Sea Railroad’s completion culminates Jan. 14-23 in the Keys. Its final event is a Jan. 23 evening presentation and book signing by Seth Bramson at The Studios of Key West, 600 White St.

Here, he shares insights into the railroad that connected the Florida Keys with mainland Florida, and each other, for the first time.

Q: How complex was the construction of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad? What other large-scale construction projects does it compare to?

Seth Bramson: The building of the Key West Extension was the greatest single railroad engineering and construction feat in U.S. — and possibly world — history. During the era of the extension’s construction, the only engineering feat that could be even remotely compared to the Key West Extension’s construction was the building of the Panama Canal.

Constructing the Long Key Viaduct, shown here, was one of the greatest engineering challenges faced by Flagler and his team. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County Librayr Collection)

Constructing the Long Key Viaduct, shown here, was one of the greatest engineering challenges faced by Flagler and his team. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County Library Collection)

Q: What were the most daunting engineering challenges in the construction process?

SB: Unquestionably the most daunting engineering challenges were the building of the three major bridges: Long Key Viaduct, Bahia Honda Bridge and what is today known as {the} Seven Mile Bridge — as well as the filling of open water to create the Key West Terminal property, today known as Trumbo Island. Nothing like the building of the bridges had ever before been attempted.

Q: What did construction of the Over-Sea Railroad mean for Flagler and his team?

SB: The successful completion of the Key West Extension added to Flagler’s legacy to the point that, today, the name Henry M. Flagler is the single greatest name in the history of Florida.

Q: What were the Florida Keys like before the railroad was built?

SB: Prior to the completion of the Key West Extension of the FEC, the Keys were completely rural and mostly uninhabited. The FEC brought life to the islands as well as hospitality venues. Whole communities came into being because of the railroad, including those at Marathon, Matecumbe, Long Key and others.

The arrival of the Over-Sea Railroad changed the face of the Keys forever. (Image courtesy of the Key West Art & Historical Society)

The arrival of the Over-Sea Railroad changed the face of the Keys forever. (Image courtesy of the Key West Art & Historical Society)

Q: How did the Over-Sea Railroad change the Florida Keys?

SB: The completion of the railroad to Key West meant the fulfillment, to the people of the Keys and the island city, of one word: accessibility. With the coming of the railroad, the isolation ended and, although it would take time and patience, development could and did begin. The Keys were, with the completion of the railroad, a completely different world.

Q: The railroad operated for less than 25 years, but it left an indelible legacy. How does its existence continue to affect the Keys?

SB: The building and operation of the Key West Extension of the Florida East Coast Railway was, and is, the greatest railroad story ever told. The incredible task of building a railroad over the sea in the early years of the 20th century has come, in no small measure, to define the residents of the Keys — the Conchs — who have come to be known for their hardiness, their pluckiness, their adaptability and their resilience.

Q: Why should people care about the centennial of the Over-Sea Railroad’s completion?

SB: It is extremely important that, especially given the issues and problems that America faces today, the celebration of what America was — and still is — capable of doing should and must be celebrated and memorialized.

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It’s Showtime: A Backstage View of Key West’s Theater Highlights

The countdown is on and 2011 will soon be part of our memories of good times shared — and we’ll be looking forward to the adventures 2012 will bring us!  The Mayan prophesies might say there’s just a year left until the world’s demise, but you’d never know it, given all the upcoming events and activities in Key West.

"Forbidden Broadway" graces the Red Barn's stage through mid-January. (Photo courtesy of the Red Barn Theatre)

"Forbidden Broadway" graces the Red Barn's stage through mid-January. (Photo courtesy of the Red Barn Theatre)

For example, all our theaters are up and running with fabulous seasons. Among them is one built as a carriage house in 1829. Used on and off during the 1940s by the Key West Players, and operated in the 1970s as a venue for puppet shows and piano concerts by renowned pianist Yehuda Guttman, in 1980 it became the now-beloved Red Barn Theatre, located at 319 Duval St.

Headlining the Barn’s 32nd season is a stroll through “Broadway in Paradise” — the Tony Award-winning show “Forbidden Broadway” runs through mid-January.  Featuring one of my favorite Keys performers, Marjorie Paul-Shook, this musical spins through 75 costume changes.  Following “Forbidden” is the 2010 award winner “Red.” Tickets to this intimate theater sell out quickly, so it’s best to plan ahead to avoid being disappointed.

A five-minute walk brings you to the 150-seat Waterfront Playhouse on Mallory Square. The theater’s founding Key West Players have been entertaining the island for more than 70 years. I remember the days when the playhouse had no air conditioning and uncomfortable seats, but (as always!) darn good theater.

The Waterfront Playhouse is wowing crowds with "August: Osage County." (Photo courtesy of the Waterfront Playhouse)

The Waterfront Playhouse is wowing crowds with "August: Osage County." (Photo courtesy of the Waterfront Playhouse)

The stage has been graced by some of Key West’s best talents including former Fantasy Fest kings Tom Luna and George Murphy.  Kelly McGillis, Charles Busch, Terrance McNally, Israel Horowitz and Carl Hiaasen are among the luminaries that have performed there.

This season opened with the Pulitzer Prize and Tony Award Best Play winner “August:  Osage County,” a dark comedy that transforms a family gathering into a mélange of sex, secrets, and really inappropriate behavior.  It’s said to be one of the best shows ever at the Waterfront, so watch a brief video of “August” and make your plans now to see this “bitch of a family reunion.”

The Tennessee Williams Theatre, located on the campus of Florida Keys Community College, brings monthly performances to its stage giving us a chance to see big-city entertainment in our island setting.  Built in the 1960s with Tennessee Williams himself assisting in the groundbreaking, the theatre is operated by the Performing Arts Centers for Key West/Tennessee Williams Theatre.

Blog author Steve Smith wishes everyone a Happy New Year ... no matter WHAT the Mayan prophesies say!

Blog author Steve Smith wishes everyone a Happy New Year ... no matter WHAT the Mayan prophesies say!

The 2012 season kicks off with The Midtown Men, starring four from the original cast of “Jersey Boys.”  On Feb. 3, you can join them in celebrating the sounds of the 1960s at their one-of-a-kind concert.  Other upcoming performances include Monty Python’s “SPAMALOT” and the world-renowned Pilobolus.

As well as great theater, we celebrate local seafood as one of our treasures. On Jan. 14, join us at the Florida Keys Seafood Festival in Bayview Park. We feast on fried fish, grilled Florida lobster, stone crab claws, Key West pink shrimp, conch fritters, and smoked fish dip.

The event features live entertainment and is a social gathering with members of our One Human Family.  Stake out a comfortable spot to spread out, because at 6 p.m. the Keys’ own Howard Livingston & the Mile Marker 24 Band take the stage for a free two-hour concert under the stars.

If you believe in a popular interpretation of Mayan prophesies, we’ve got just one year left until the world ends on Dec. 21, 2012.  Make your plans to visit us in Key West soon; in fact, if you can’t get here beforehand, come down Dec. 20 — I’m sure we’ll have a special event taking place!

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The Saga of Santa Keys

‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through the Keys
smiling holiday revelers savored the breeze.
But in other locations, nobody was smiling
as they braved freezing temperatures far from the islands.

A trio of canine "kids" awaits the arrival of Santa Keys. (Photo by Mary Threlkeld)

A trio of canine "kids" awaits the arrival of Santa Keys. (Photo by Mary Threlkeld)

While Keys visitors partied in warm outdoor bars,
toasting friends with mojitos sipped under the stars,
Christmas spirits had plans for the cold “refugees”
who were physically elsewhere but craving the Keys.

That’s why, out on the beach, there arose such a squawking
of unsettled seagulls in seagull talk talking
that drivers of cars cruising next to the ocean
couldn’t figure out what had caused all the commotion.

The moon on the shining white crescent of beach
made the shoreline of Cuba seem almost in reach
when what to the drivers’ amazement appeared
but a Santa in flip-flops and seaweed-decked beard.

Elves riding golf carts? Santa Keys' helpers in Big Pine use some unconventional vehicles when assisting the big guy. (Photo by Neysa Threlkeld)

Elves riding golf carts? Santa Keys' helpers in Big Pine use some unconventional vehicles when assisting the big guy. (Photo by Neysa Threlkeld)

Now, this Santa was wise and this Santa was bright
and he sure sympathized with the northerners’ plight.
In his past life, before heading south for the sun,
he too spent the winter months freezing his buns.

So he hijacked a sturdy old boat used for fishin’,
found some Key deer to pull it and started his mission.
Sailing skyward to surf on a tropical breeze,
he steered his ship north bringing gifts from the Keys.

As palm fronds before a wild summer storm fly
(when the shutters are closed and the water is high),
Santa Keys cruised the northern states with his Key deer
spreading visions of warm blue seas and island cheer.

With his Key deer garbed in brilliant lights, Santa Keys prepares to depart on his mission. (Photo by Neysa Threlkeld)

With his Key deer garbed in brilliant lights, Santa Keys prepares to depart on his mission. (Photo by Neysa Threlkeld)

At each house where the residents longed for the tropics,
he left small Keys tokens stuffed deep in their stockings.
There were conch shells and flip-flops and Key lime tidbits,
Margarita mix too — and “Buffett’s Greatest Hits.”

There were fishing reels, dive logs and lotions for sun
Conch Republic flags, stickers that read “U.S. 1,”
tiny replicas of Key West’s Southernmost Point
and shrimp sauce from a funky old Keys seafood joint.

When he dropped the last gift at the last snow-topped house,
Santa Keys told his Key deer to steer a course south.
His farewell drifted back on a sweet balmy breeze:
“Merry Christmas to all — now come visit the Keys!”

Even underwater denizens get a visit from Santa Keys. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Even underwater denizens get a visit from Santa Keys. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

To watch an underwater video of Santa Keys, click here.

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Whangamo-WHO? Conch Republic Copycat Discovered in New Zealand

Once upon a time (way back in 1982), the Florida Keys & Key West seceded from the union and formed the independent Conch Republic. This wasn’t a joke. In fact, it was a last-ditch attempt to get the U.S. Border Patrol to remove a blockade it had erected at the head of the Keys — where agents searched outgoing cars for unspecified contraband, tied up traffic interminably, and nearly annihilated the Keys’ fledgling tourist trade.

Even NBC "Today" weatherman Al Roker (left) and anchor Matt Lauer are fans of the Conch Republic! Here they display the republic's flag during a special broadcast from Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau

Even NBC "Today" weatherman Al Roker (left) and anchor Matt Lauer are fans of the Conch Republic. Here they display the republic's flag during a special broadcast from Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

So, like any intelligent population blessed with a creative mindset and lively sense of humor, some good citizens and friends of the Keys came up with an offbeat, attention-getting response: they staged the island chain’s secession from the mother country.

It was a stunningly effective solution to the problem. Following the international media hoopla generated by the gutsy action, the blockade was quietly dismantled, never to return.

The concept of the Conch Republic, however, has far outlived the incident that spawned it. While Keys citizens are technically still Americans, today Conch Republic flags and passports are common — and the secession’s anniversary is celebrated each year with a fun-filled festival.

The concept of the Conch Republic appeals to the independent, nonconformist spirit of Keys residents (and those who dream of becoming residents). And recently, one of the republic’s founding fathers discovered that it also appealed to a citizenry on the other side of the world.

Intrepid traveler Stuart Newman discovered a Conch Republic-like country in faraway New Zealand.

Intrepid traveler Stuart Newman discovered a Conch Republic-like country in faraway New Zealand.

While he was in New Zealand representing the Florida Keys & Key West at the annual Society of American Travel Writers convention, honorary Conch Republican Stuart Newman took time off to explore the countryside. Driving along the Lost World Highway, he encountered the “Republic of Whangamomona.”

Here, in Stuart’s own words, is the tale of his remarkable discovery.

Whangamomona, NZ — Halfway around the world from the Florida Keys, residents of tiny town on New Zealand’s North Island, arguably inspired by Key West’s 1982 Conch Republic rebellion, seven years later seceded and formed the “Republic of Whangamomona.”

In 1989, dissatisfied with a series of governmental redistricting changes, the elder gurus of the community of less than 180 gathered at the pub of the local six-room hotel/restaurant — and declared Whangamomona to be an independent republic.

The republic of Whamgamomona is governed from this unassuming hotel. (Photo by Stuart Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The republic of Whamgamomona is governed from this unassuming hotel. (Photo by Stuart Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Located in New Zealand’s Manawatu-Wanganui region, Whangamomona is accessible via the Lost World Highway (NZ 43) — not exactly the caliber of the Keys’ U.S. 1, since it boasts a 90-mile stretch without a service station.

Whangamomona’s first president, Ian Kjestrup, was elected after his name was placed on the ballot without his knowledge.

Kjestrup served from 1989 through 1999 and was succeeded by Billy Gumboot, a goat (!), who won by eating the ballots of the other candidates. Gumboot served 18 months before being succeeded by a poodle named Tai, who served from 2003 to 2004 and retired following a reported assassination attempt.

The present chief of state, garage owner Murt “Murtle the Turtle” Kennard, won out over founding father Kjestrup and a cross-dresser named Miriam (sound familiar?) by a single vote. He was overwhelmingly re-elected this year.

Like the Conch Republic, Whangamomona has a population of indigenous poultry.

Like the Conch Republic, Whangamomona has a population of indigenous poultry.

Today, the tiny “country” of Whangamomona is replete with Conch Republic-type passports and official T-shirts. Every other year in January (summer in New Zealand), the town celebrates Republic Day, which attracts thousands of visitors from throughout the North Island.

As Stuart discovered, clearly the citizens of Whangamomona share an irreverent mindset and good-spirited sense of fun with the denizens of the Conch Republic. Those attributes will take center stage in the Keys April 20-29, 2012, during the 30th annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration.

Why not come down for the festivities and declare your own independence?

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Seasonal Soirees and a Front Street Stroll

Tis the season for holly, lights, trees, gifts, Christmas cards (yes, I still send them via snail mail), eggnog, and the never-ending round of holiday parties.  Our bars are dressed for the season, as are their entertainers.

At Key West's Aqua, even the divas do double duty as Santa's helpers. (Photo by Larry Blackburn)

in Key West, even the divas do double duty as Santa's helpers. (Photo by Larry Blackburn)

Sushi is at work sewing her gown for the 16th annual New Year’s Eve “red high heel” drop. On Dec. 31, we lower Sushi, 801 Bourbon Cabaret’s drag mother, in a six-foot red stiletto at the stroke of midnight from the balcony of the Bourbon Street Pub. As the shoe “drops” to ring in the New Year, thousands of spectators cheer from the street below while the air swirls with fairy dust and confetti. If you can’t be here, you can watch this live on Anderson Cooper’s CNN New Year’s Eve program.

Last evening the Equator Resort hosted the Key West Business Guild’s monthly membership mixer. Dressed in festive attire, we sported fun holiday antlers, flashing lights and mistletoe.

These days there are so many things to see and do in Key West — and an easy way to begin is to take a stroll along Front Street.

Sushi, a.k.a. Key West resident Gary Marion, stars in the "drag queen drop" that welcomes the New Year in Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

Sushi, a.k.a. Key West resident Gary Marion, stars in the "drag queen drop" that welcomes the New Year in Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

A holiday party hosted by the Innkeepers Association kicked off the season at the Key West Art Center and Gallery on the popular street. Established more than 50 years ago, this institution provides a central spot for local artists to show and sell their works.

The center has sponsored the Key West Craft Show each January for the last 27 years. This two-day juried outdoor craft festival brings to the island more than 100 artisans who display and sell their creations along shaded Whitehead Street — and curving through the Presidential Gates into historic Truman Annex.

In addition, for 47 years, the center has sponsored the Old Island Days Art Festival each February. This is also a juried show that sets up on Whitehead Street, drawing stellar artists to display their beautiful creations.

And if you happen to be in town on the second Wednesday of any month, you can attend the center’s membership meetings, which feature a demonstration of art or sculpture, or lectures on art history or printing techniques.

Key West Craft Show attendees examine a lovely bowl by Key West artist Janice Childs. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Art Center)

Key West Craft Show attendees examine a lovely bowl by local artist Janis Childs. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Art Center)

Behind the Art Center is the Key West Aquarium. Built during the Great Depression in the 1930s, this was the first aquarium to use the open-air concept, allowing natural sunlight to illuminate the displays.

Admission in those early days was 15 cents for adults and 5 cents for children. The aquarium is still a bargain to visit and pass a couple of hours petting sharks and viewing stingrays and conchs. You’re permitted to hold some of the sea life for photos, and then watch the resident sharks being fed.

Next to the aquarium is the historic Custom House Museum. Built in 1891, this multi-storied building housed customs officials during the era when wrecking made Key West the richest city per capita in America. It also housed the post office and courthouse.

More recently, after the building was boarded up for years, the Key West Art & Historical Society undertook a nine-year, $9-million restoration project to bring it back to its original glory.

Seward Johnson's gigantic "American Gothic" figures stood outside the Key West Museum of Art & HIstory until they were replaced by another evocative pair of Johnson giants. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Seward Johnson's gigantic "American Gothic" figures stood outside the Custom House Museum until they were replaced by another pair of Johnson giants. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

There are rotating exhibitions in the museum, as well as one that showcases the woodcarvings of the late Key Wester Mario Sanchez. Intriguing life-sized (and much larger!) pieces by noted sculptor Seward Johnson can be found both inside and around the museum.

The museum’s most recent exhibit commemorates the upcoming 100th anniversary of the completion of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad, which carried passengers from mainland Florida throughout the Keys to Key West for the very first time.

If reading this makes you eager to visit Key West to see it for yourself, enter the Florida Keys Cyber-Train to Sunshine Contest to win a six-night vacation in the island chain. The competition is being held in conjunction with the Over-Sea Railroad anniversary celebration — just click here for all the information you need to enter.

Till next time … happy holidays to all of you!

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Rhythms, Revels and Where to Go After Dark

Key West’s nightlife scene means the rhythms of reggae, salsa and island rock spilling from clubs’ open doorways … the whirr of a blender as a bartender concocts a perfect frozen margarita … the laughter and clink of glasses as friends toast the evening’s promise.

Rick's Bar, a favorite Key West establishment in the 200 block of Duval Street, offers patrons multiple settings for fun.

Rick's Bar, a favorite Key West establishment in the 200 block of Duval Street, offers patrons multiple settings for fun. (Photo courtesy of Rick's)

Party-minded people tend to favor lively Duval Street and the waterfront Historic Seaport. There you’ll find everything from icy imported beers to sophisticated martinis to frozen tropical libations in mind-boggling flavors.

The settings are as varied as the drink offerings. You might sip a cool concoction overlooking the colorful Duval panorama, wander into a sultry jazz club or wine bar, or choose a seaport tavern where patrons’ dogs enjoy their own “cocktails” — bowls of ice water.

For example, check out the popular Rick’s/Durty Harry’s Entertainment Complex in the 200 block of  Duval Street. Its wide variety of venues and bars includes Rick’s Downstairs, featuring top-quality live music and cocktails; the casual Tree Bar with its laid-back bartenders, premium spirits and fresh-squeezed juices; and Durty Harry’s, known for its live rock and roll.

Jimmy Buffett waves to some 3,500 "Parrot Head" fans during his surprise concert on Key West's Duval Street. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Jimmy Buffett waves to some 3,500 "Parrot Head" fans during a surprise concert outside his Margaritaville emporium. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Jimmy Buffett fans flock to the renowned entertainer/author’s bar and restaurant at 500 Duval St. Jimmy drew inspiration for his “island rock” from living and performing in Key West, and his Margaritaville Café features tasty casual food, cocktails and an entertainment lineup that includes his musical friends, band members and occasionally the man himself.

Jimmy was a regular habitué of the Chart Room, a hole-in-the-wall at the Pier House Resort & Caribbean Spa, 1 Duval St., where Key West movers-and-shakers plotted and partied in the late 1970s and early ‘80s. Venture inside today for what Chart Room bartenders still call “a sensible cocktail,” and you might hear the hint of their long-ago laughter.

Two local bars recall another of Key West’s favorite sons.

Legendary writer Ernest Hemingway spent the 1930s on the island, penning fiction that forever changed American literature — and consorting with friends like saloonkeeper Joe “Josie” Russell at his Sloppy Joe’s Bar.

Sloppy Joe's is thronged with look-alike fans each year during the internationally renowned contest. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

Sloppy Joe's is thronged with look-alike fans each year during the internationally renowned contest. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

The bar was located at 428 Greene St. until a rent dispute caused Josie to move it around the corner to 201 Duval St. — where it became a world-famous watering hole. Each July, Sloppy Joe’s hosts the “Papa” Hemingway Look-Alike Contest — but visitors crowd the place year-round for its quality entertainment, ample drinks and Hemingway heritage.

For many years, the original Sloppy Joe’s has been called Captain Tony’s Saloon. The colorful Tony was a gambler, gunrunner, charterboat captain and Key West’s one-time mayor. Stop in for live music and cold libations in an atmosphere filled with memorabilia.

Around the corner at 4 Charles St. stands the Smokin’ Tuna Saloon, a new emporium that’s already a local favorite. Its attractions include a funky and welcoming indoor-outdoor vibe, an eclectic menu and unbeatable live music.

The Smokin' Tuna is relatively new on the scene but already a local's favorite hotspot. (Photo courtesy of the Smokin' Tuna)

The Smokin' Tuna is relatively new on the scene but already a locals' favorite hotspot. (Photo courtesy of the Smokin' Tuna)

And don’t miss the ramshackle Green Parrot Bar at 601 Whitehead St., a Key West landmark since 1890. There you’ll find easygoing bartenders and an offbeat atmosphere (including signs that read “Sorry, We’re Open” and “No Snivelling”). The self-proclaimed home of great drinks and bad art, the Parrot offers a jazz-, funk- and blues-infused entertainment lineup.

Another hub of Key West’s lively nightlife is the Historic Seaport district along the Gulf of Mexico. Seaport bars and restaurants preserve the funky attitude, architecture and personality of the island’s past.

Prime among them is the Schooner Wharf Bar at 202 William St. The bar began its life on an actual schooner, but subsequently moved ashore to its open-air waterfront setting. Today it’s known for casual live music, rustic charm and events ranging from a goofy “minimal regatta” to a buccaneering New Year’s Eve celebration.

Whether you’re seeking seaport shenanigans, island rhythms or a chance to try the “Duval Crawl” of main-street establishments, Key West’s nightlife adds a vibrant excitement to the island city.

So what are you waiting for? Come on down and sample it for yourself.

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Florida Keys Women Recall Riding Over-Sea Railroad in Early 1900s

Henry Flagler’s Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad ceased operating in 1935, but two Keys women vividly remember childhood experiences riding the “railroad that went to sea.”

Two Keys women recall childhood journeys on Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad, shown here steaming across the Long Key Viaduct. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County Librayr Collection)

Two Keys women recall childhood journeys on Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. Here, a train steams across the Long Key Viaduct. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County Library Collection)

Completed in 1912, it was called the Over-Sea Railroad because its track stretched more than 100 miles out into open water. For 23 years it carried passengers from mainland Florida to (and through) the Keys, giving them a breathtaking sense of steaming across the ocean.

Minnie Dameron, who spent much of her childhood on Plantation Key in the Upper Keys, remembers trips to visit family in Key West — and taking the train’s final journey just before portions of its track were severely damaged in a 1935 hurricane.

Marie Gasser, who spent childhood summers in Ohio and winters in Miami, recalled her family’s one-way train trip from Miami to Key West before her death in January 2012.

Dameron remembered her father flagging down the train at the Plantation Key freight station with a white handkerchief, and a lantern signaling the family had boarded.

Minnie Dameron made several Over-Sea Railroad journeys with her parents and younger sister. (Photo by Steve Panariello, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Minnie Dameron took several Keys train trips with her parents and sister. (Photo by Steve Panariello, Florida Keys News Bureau)

“We’d get so excited when we knew we were coming to get the train and go all the way to Key West — we put on our best clothes,” said Dameron, 87, who now lives in Key West.

“My sister and I used to love to ride the train and look out the window,” she recalled. “But when we’d come to the Seven Mile Bridge, it looked like you were riding on the water, so we’d get scared and hold one another’s hand.”

For Dameron, arriving at Key West was the trip’s highlight. On special occasions, she remembered, Cuban bands and dancers greeted arriving passengers.

Gasser recalled her family boarding the train in Miami when she was about 5 and walking back to the last seat — a seat that resembled a church pew. Her mother sat by the window and her father on the aisle, while she rode between them.

Marie Gasser, who was 5 years old when she rode the train with her parents, remembers her mother being quite unhappy about riding over water. (Photo by Steve Panariello, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Marie Gasser, who was 5 years old when she rode the train with her parents, remembered her mother being quite unhappy about riding over water. (Photo by Steve Panariello, Florida Keys News Bureau)

“Everybody was excited — take a train down to Key West,” said Gasser, who was an Islamorada resident when she died at age 95.

During the journey, they walked to the dining car.

“It seemed like a long ways to get to something to eat,” said Gasser, who remembered a waiter in a white shirt and black pants helping her. “He brought a highchair for me, lifted me up and put me in the highchair.”

The journey was pleasant, she said, until her mother looked out the open window as the train crossed a bridge so narrow it seemed she was sitting over water. After arriving in Key West, her mother refused to take the train back to Miami and insisted they return by boat.

“She said boats were made to go on water and trains were not!” Gasser chuckled.

Dameron and her family’s last ride was the train’s final journey to Key West — just before the Labor Day 1935 hurricane slammed into the Upper Keys, damaging that area’s railroad line. The trip wasn’t inspired by foreknowledge of the storm, but instead to get treatment for her sick sister.

A group awaits the Over-Sea Railroad train at the Islamorada station. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County Public LIbrary)

A group awaits the Over-Sea Railroad train at the Islamorada station. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County Library Collection)

“She had a temperature and my mother tried everything to get it down and couldn’t, so we got the train to Key West,” Dameron said. “We would have been in it (the hurricane), but I was on the last train in here (Key West) because of my sister being ill.”

Three years after the hurricane, the Overseas Highway debuted, built on a foundation that incorporated most of the original railway spans. Today, it contains 127 miles of roadway and 42 bridges over water connecting the Keys. The original train bridges were retired in 1982, but many became fishing piers.

A celebration commemorating the 100th anniversary of the railway’s completion is to culminate Jan. 14-23, with Keyswide events marking the centennial of the first train’s journey.

“It changed the Keys forever, and what a blessing it was,” said Dameron. “I just wish it was still there — that’s how much we loved it.”

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Celebrate the Season with Tinsel and Tiaras

Deck the halls and get ready for the holidays in Key West! There was a very short lull in events here last week, so we rushed around sprinkling fairy dust across the city in preparation for Christmas and Santa’s trip through the Keys.

Who's that hanging out with the Grinch at a past Key West Holiday Parade? Chris Belland from Historic Tours of America (left) and blog author Steve Smith (right).

Who's that hanging out with the Grinch at a past Key West Holiday Parade? Chris Belland from Historic Tours of America (left) and blog author Steve Smith (right).

This Saturday, Dec. 3, our Holiday Parade will again roll down Truman Avenue and Duval Street delighting the kids and us grown-ups. Santa will be in town, but it’s anyone’s guess how he will traverse the streets. We do know the parade will feature decorated floats, boats, trains and trolleys, bicycles, mopeds, and even a holiday dog walk.

After the lively procession passes by, take a stroll through the Historic Seaport and enjoy the Key West Harbor Walk of Lights. The entire area above and below the sea will sparkle with lights, garlands with a tropical twist, and a harborfront Christmas tree. You’ll find shops and galleries offering a warm welcome while you enjoy libations and live music.

Throughout the holiday season, consider a nontraditional treat: enjoy our local drag queens as they offer special holiday shows (tiaras, anyone?). Inga and the Aquanettes fill the recently remodeled nightclub with locals and visitors, while Sushi and her 801 Girls will be entertaining every night in an intimate cabaret.

Renowned drag queen Inga (standing) celebrates with Santa and his cohorts in Key West. (Photo by Kenne Tucker)

Renowned drag queen Inga (back) joins Santa and some cohorts in Key West. (Photo by Kenne Tucker)

Key West is known for its beautiful historic inns, and the Holiday Historic Inn Tour is a perfect way to visit the properties. The self-guided walking tour allows you to go into the inns, view their decorations, enjoy fine food from some of our best restaurants and sip your favorite cocktail. Those who aren’t into walking can hop on a decorated trolley and tour both the inns and our neighborhoods to view holiday lights and outdoor décor.

Thursday, Dec. 8, join us for the 10th Annual Share The Wreath fundraising event benefiting Key West’s AIDS Help. Established by the late Ronda Riviera, Queen Mother and Miss Firecracker 2001, this fun and creative event starts out with some simple plain wreaths. Local celebrities and artists take the wreaths and turn them into fascinating lighted works of art, letting their imaginations run wild. It’s a great opportunity to take home a one-of-a-kind piece of Keys art.

Speaking of fundraising, the 8th annual Southernmost AIDS/HIV Smart Ride bicycle event took place recently, with cyclists undertaking a 165-mile journey from the mainland to Key West. This year’s event saw over 650 riders.

The group included many Key Westers and others from the United Kingdom, Canada, Germany and most of the states in the U.S. making their way to our island.

Riders in the Southernmost AIDS/HIV Smart Ride celebrate concluding their trek in Key West. (Photo by Peter Arnow)

Riders in the Southernmost AIDS/HIV Smart Ride celebrate concluding their trek in Key West. (Photo by Peter Arnow)

These riders, ranging from 18 to 73 years old, raised more than $675,000 — which goes directly to six Florida AIDS service organizations.

You might consider riding in next year’s event. It’s a wonderful way to give to our communities while making lifelong friends. And bicycling down the scenic Overseas Highway is a great way to start a vacation on the southernmost island in the continental United States!

Getting back to holiday events … on Saturday, Dec. 10, head once again to the Historic Seaport for the annual Schooner Wharf Lighted Boat Parade.  Parade entries typically range from kayaks with battery-operated lights to fishing vessels and tall classic schooners — some decked in traditional holiday finery, and some offering island-style salutes to the season.

New Year’s Eve is another special night in Key West. Sushi, drag mother of the 801 Girls, rings in the new year perched in a super-sized red stiletto high above Duval Street. This Keys event has been featured live on CNN for many years — and for good reason.

There’s still time to book your room for Christmas and New Year’s weeks, so come on down and celebrate the season with a Florida Keys flair!

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