For decades, I’ve been a passionate fan of mystery books. As a child, I savored the adventures of Nancy Drew. Later I discovered Agatha Christie’s Hercule Poirot and Jane Marple, Mary Roberts Rinehart’s heroines driven to untangle family crimes, and Dorothy Sayers’ debonair Lord Peter Wimsey.

The inaugural Key West Mystery Fest promises dastardly deeds, a world-premiere play and clues galore.

These days, I track evil-doers in turn-of-the-century Egypt with Elizabeth Peters’ archaeologist detective Amelia Peabody, and photograph crime scenes in my beloved Key West with Alex Rutledge, the protagonist of former Keys resident Tom Corcoran. When I turn on the TV, it’s to investigate criminal behavior alongside the offbeat “Monk” or shadow Sherlock Holmes through the cobblestoned streets of London.

Much to my delight, I’ve discovered that a number of really good mystery writers live in Key West. Among them are Kate Collins, whose amateur sleuth owns a flower shop, and Michael Haskins, author of the “Mad Mick” Murphy thrillers.

Even better, the Waterfront Playhouse is staging an event tailor-made for mystery lovers like me — the inaugural Key West Mystery Fest, set for May 4-13 and featuring these stellar authors and more. Its star is one of the most intriguing mystery writers alive today: Hy Conrad, writer/producer of the wonderful crime series “Monk.”

Mystery writers Michael Haskins (left) and Tom Corcoran are captured on camera at Key West Island Books, a popular literary hotspot on the island.

The festival’s centerpiece is the world premiere of Hy’s mystery play “Home Exchange” at the Waterfront Playhouse next to Mallory Square. By the way, this multi-talented Key Wester is not only a successful mystery author and the mastermind behind “Monk” — he also writes and produces the hit television series “White Collar.”

The suspenseful script of “Home Exchange” explores what happens when two Americans swap houses with a British couple, and quickly become convinced they’ve stumbled on a murder plot — and that the British husband will soon become a victim.

The delicious drama will be performed through May 26, and its Mystery Fest run includes a May 5 post-performance party at the Historic Key West Sculpture Garden beside the playhouse.

Get a "clue" at the festival's deliciously mysterious progressive dinner.

Detective wannabes can also investigate the “Crime Scene Photographer” interactive solve-it-yourself puzzler set for May 4 at Casa Antigua — a fittingly mysterious structure that was author Ernest Hemingway’s first Key West address.

I’m definitely planning to savor the festival’s three-stage progressive dinner in the elegant Truman Annex enclave. Guests are invited to dress as their favorite character from the board game “Clue” — and the menu features a dastardly murder to solve.

On May 10, Hy Conrad and another “Monk” celebrity, creator Andy Breckman, will host “Monk Night” at the island’s Tropic Cinema. The duo plans to explain how the Emmy Award-winning show was created, written and produced — AND screen some of their favorite clips.

The world premiere of "Home Exchange" by Hy Conrad, renowned as the writer of television's "Monk," is the festival's suspenseful centerpiece.

The next night, Hy will join five other mystery writers including Kate Collins, Mike Dennis and Michael Haskins for a book signing and panel discussion titled “The Power of Location.”

And on May 12, a special “Home Exchange” performance and talkback will be staged at the Waterfront Playhouse. There, through insights from Hy and the play’s cast and crew, theater-goers can solve the mysteries surrounding the intriguing production.

The festival’s puzzling proceedings also include meet-and-greet receptions, a backstage tour of the “Home Exchange” set, a classic mystery movie night, and a final brunch that spotlights the winning entries in a mystery short story contest.

Clearly, no sleuthing skills are needed to understand why it would be a “crime” to miss the inaugural Key West Mystery Fest. So don’t be clueless — make plans now to come down and join the suspects. (FYI, I’ll be the one wearing a deerstalker hat and channeling Sherlock Holmes.)

Topics: Arts, Events, Festivals, Highlights, Key West, Voices Main Archive

The sport fish and game fish that roam Florida Keys waters don’t just provide targets for eager anglers. For decades, they’ve also provided inspiration for local and visiting writers — from Ernest Hemingway and Zane Grey to modern-day angler/authors like Jeffrey Cardenas and Jim Sharpe.

Angling in Keys waters, seeking targets like this vivid dolphin, has provided inspiration to authors of fiction and nonfiction for generations. (Photo courtesy of Captain Jim Sharpe)

Hemingway, who lived and wrote in Key West throughout the 1930s, discovered big game fishing in the Keys. When he wasn’t penning literary classics, he was often searching for giant marlin in the waters between Key West and Cuba with comrades like Joe Russell (founder/owner of the iconic Sloppy Joe’s Bar).

Encounters with the ocean’s “big game” found their way into Hemingway’s books, from “To Have and Have Not” — set in Depression-era Key West and his only novel with an American setting — to the Pulitzer Prize–winning “Old Man and the Sea.”

Hemingway’s angling tales helped make Florida Keys fishing popular, but he wasn’t the first notable author to develop a passion for it. That was Western novelist Zane Grey, who arrived in the early 1900s and stayed at the Long Key Fishing Camp, a resort built by railroad baron Henry Flagler.

Grey often fished with local guide Bill Partea — and reportedly missed only two Keys angling seasons from 1911 through 1926.

Zane Grey's "Tales of Fishes" was an early effort praising Keys angling.

In his 1919 pamphlet, “Tales of Fishes,” Grey introduced a worldwide audience to “Gulf Stream Fishing,” describing the use of light tackle to catch sailfish and kingfish off the Keys. It was the first time sailfish had been presented as a worthy game-fish target.

Grey (who co-founded the legendary Long Key Fishing Club) also was one of the first anglers to embrace a catch-and-release ethic. A sign at the club recommended bag limits: “2 SAIL FISH, 5 TARPON, 6 KING FISH, 6 GROUPER” and added, “Any Fish Caught Above The Number Of Each Above Specified Should Be Carefully Returned To The Water.”

Contemporary Keys angler/authors include Jeffrey Cardenas, also a photographer and renowned flats guide, who has spent more than 20 years fishing and drawing inspiration from Keys waters.

Cardenas’ books include the critically acclaimed “Marquesa: A Time & Place with Fish,” and a collection of essays about saltwater fly fishing titled “Sea Level: Adventures of a Saltwater Angler.” In addition, he has written pieces for magazines such as Time and Outside.

Captain Jim Sharpe, author of "Dolphin: The Perfect Gamefish," is a veteran of several decades of fishing and tournament wins. (Photo courtesy of Captain Jim Sharpe)

Few writers, however, have delved as deeply into their subject as Captain Jim Sharpe, author of “Dolphin: The Perfect Gamefish.”

Born and raised in Miami, Sharpe is a veteran of several decades of fishing and tournament wins. His career highlights include establishing and operating the Lower Keys’ Sea Boots Charters, writing for acclaimed fishing publications, and hosting regional radio and television shows on angling.

Sharpe’s book on dolphin fish covers the species’ life and habits, behavior, environmental influences and a wealth of fishing techniques garnered from his rich experience.

Just as it did in the days of Hemingway and Zane Grey, Florida Keys fishing still has a magnetic appeal for writers of fiction and nonfiction. Whether it’s material for a book, the adrenaline rush of battling a finned foe or the satisfaction of catching dinner, authors and anglers can find what they seek in the inspiring waters that surround the Keys.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, History, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, On the Water, Voices Main Archive

Walking down Key West’s Duval Street these days, you can hear visitors speaking French, German, Portuguese, Dutch, Scandinavian, Chinese, Japanese and even English flavored with that recognizable British accent.

Blog author Steve Smith (right) and Dean Nelson raise the rainbow flag at the Gate of the Sun atop Peru's Machu Picchu.

The island is alive with vacationers from across the world.

LGBT visitors have been welcomed and assisted by the Key West Business Guild for more than 35 years. They can pick up passes and get discounts at local businesses by stopping by the Gay and Lesbian Visitor Center at 513 Truman Ave. Open seven days a week, the center has staff that can answer virtually any question imaginable, provide maps and impart information about accommodations, attractions, restaurants, art galleries and the ever-popular nightlife.

As you might expect during such a lively time, our theaters are offering a variety of shows to entertain and amuse audiences. The Waterfront Playhouse at Mallory Square is staging “The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee,” nominated for eight Tony Awards including Best Musical.

Don't miss hilarious Keys actor Tom Luna in the Red Barn Theatre's "Match."

Watching the production, you’ll become part of a group of prepubescent overachievers pitted against each other in a spelling challenge. (In fact, the New York Times called the play “in essence ‘A Chorus Line’ with pimples.”

A few blocks away, in the 300 block of Duval Street, catch the Red Barn Theatre’s production of “Match” — starring Key West’s talented, incomparable and always hysterical Tom Luna portraying an eccentric and endearing dancer, choreographer and teacher. (Bring tissues, because you’ll laugh till your eyes run with tears of joy.)

We will soon be celebrating the 30th birthday of our beloved Conch Republic with a rollicking festival. Almost 30 years ago, the U.S. Border patrol erected a surprise roadblock at the top of the Florida Keys Overseas Highway, ostensibly searching for aliens and illegal drugs. The barrier created a 10-mile-long traffic jam and delays for visitors (and us residents) leaving the Keys.

Spirited Key Westers were not afraid to stand up to “a government gone mad with power.” They protested by forming a new “independent nation” named the Conch Republic, seceding from and then declaring war on the United States, promptly surrendering and applying for millions in foreign aid. News of the offbeat revolt was heard around the world and shortly afterward the roadblock faded away.

In Key West's zany drag race, some lively lovelies wear sporting attire with their heels -- a smart choice given the course's peculiar challenges. (Photo by Mike Hollar, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The Conch Republic Independence Celebration begins April 20 with the Raising of the Colors at Fort Zachary Taylor (we lovingly refer to it as Fort Elizabeth Taylor) and a fun-filled kickoff party at the Schooner Wharf Bar in Key West’s Historic Seaport.

The gay community presents its biggest festival event the following day, rocking the streets with the “Great Conch Republic Drag Race.” Benefiting a local charity, it’s hosted by our Bourbon Street entertainment complex and takes place in the 700 and 800 blocks of Duval Street.

I’m sure you’ve seen drag queens before, but you haven’t seen anything like these races. The “pits” open at 1 p.m., and the wacky footrace follows — with competitors required to wear their highest heels! Bring your camera, because your friends won’t believe your stories about this kewl event without photographic evidence.

I hope to see you there!

Topics: Arts, Festivals, History, Key West, LGBT

In the 1800s, the wrecking industry made Key West the richest city per capita in the United States. Stories still abound about the Keys wreckers’ navigational skills, proud natures, and courage in daring stormy seas to salvage crews and cargoes from sinking ships.

Could this sea serpent, spotted a few years back in Key West, be a contemporary cousin of the monster of Carysford Reef? (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Yet few people know about one of their strangest exploits: salvaging a sea monster off Key Largo’s Carysford (today called Carysfort) Reef.

By 1828, Congress had ruled it illegal to take cargo salvaged from ships wrecked in U.S. waters to any foreign port, so an Admiralty Court was established in newly settled Key West to oversee salvage matters.

Keys wreckers with strength and stamina braved high winds and waves, racing to the reef in their sloops to rescue sailors and their cargoes. In the Admiralty Court, they were compensated for their efforts, with the amount determined by the value of the vessel and merchandise saved, and the degree of danger they faced.

Between 1848 and 1858, the Admiralty Court adjudicated 499 wrecks. In 1852 alone, the annual salvage income totaled $1,500,000.

As well as bringing economic opportunity, wrecking set fashion and style trends. Salvaged goods were often sold to residents at auctions — so, if a cargo of lovely silk shawls was salvaged, the Keys’ fine ladies proudly wore them. The next wreck might carry laces, perfume, or fancy shoes — and suddenly the shawls would be old news.

James Mastin's massive sculpture honoring the wreckers can be seen at the Key West Historic Memorial Sculpture Garden.

Though some people think Keys wrecking was unprincipled or disorganized, that wasn’t the case. Strict rules governed the industry, and captains had to prove their good character to get licensed by the Admiralty Court.

No one thought more highly of the wreckers’ character than Albert Koch … discoverer of the monster of Carysford Reef.

A German-born paleontologist, Koch was passionate about fossil bones. In 1844, he began a two-year odyssey through the eastern U.S. looking for sea monsters. In 1845, touring Alabama, he found one.

The giant fossilized serpent, which Koch called the Hydrarchos, measured 114 feet long. And in June 1845, the New York Shipping and Commercial List reported that the ship transporting it (and 644 bales of cotton) to New York from Mobile had sunk in Florida Keys waters.

Albert Koch, waiting in New York, was devastated. Had any wreckers managed to reach the sinking ship in time to save his monster? Or did they toss his boxes of fossil bones aside and concentrate on saving objects with more obvious value?

At the Key West Shipwreck Museum, visitors can "meet" wreckers and learn their fascinating stories. (Photo courtesy of Historic Tours of America)

Even if the Hydrarchos had been rescued, he couldn’t afford the high salvage fees the court would assess for its return. He feared his treasured monster was lost forever.

The Keys wreckers, however, had a surprise for Albert Koch. One day, he received joyful news from Key West — the wreckers had agreed on a fee for the salvaged cotton, but decided to send the “giant sea serpent” to its owner in New York free of charge, as a service to science and man.

Months later the Hydrarchos was on display in New York, astounding the public, when Albert Koch encountered the captain of the sunken vessel. He told Koch of the rescue of the great Hydrarchos — which apparently had tried to return to the sea.

As the wreckers were loading the boxes of fossil bones onto their ship, one slipped overboard. Seconds later a wrecker followed the box into the storm-swept water, risking his life to save it.

Key West's Oldest House Museum contains items recalling the Keys' lucrative salvage industry. (Photo courtesy of the Old Island Restoration Foundation)

Today, relics of the Keys’ salvage industry are displayed at Key West’s Oldest House Museum & Garden at 322 Duval St. Dating back to 1829, the house was owned by wrecking captain Francis Watlington. And at the Key West Shipwreck Treasures Museum, 1 Whitehead St., the wreckers’ story is told through films, re-enactors and artifacts salvaged from the shipwrecked Isaac Allerton.

Yet even after you explore both museums, a question will probably remain: why did the wreckers act so generously about the Hydrarchos?

Maybe they did realize its importance to science, or maybe their motivation was more elemental. During that fierce storm at sea, maybe they recognized the monster of Carysford Reef as a fellow survivor — and simply wanted to bring its old bones to safety.

Topics: History, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, On the Water, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

You’re never far from water in the Florida Keys. Swimming, fishing, snorkeling, or just relaxing — the water is there to be enjoyed, no matter what your age or inclination.

Fort Jefferson, lying on a tiny island in the Dry Tortugas nearly 70 miles west of Key West, is a favorite spot for visitors. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

One of the most enjoyable water experiences is a voyage aboard the 100-foot catamaran Yankee Freedom II to Dry Tortugas National Park and Fort Jefferson. Located 68 miles west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico, Dry Tortugas is America’s most remote national park — and the six-sided Civil War-era fort just might be the largest brick structure in the Western Hemisphere.

Aboard the Yankee Freedom, you’ll find an air-conditioned main cabin equipped with comfortable benches and tables (if you’re like me, that’s where you’ll want to spend most of your time). The main deck also has three restrooms, including one that’s handicapped-accessible.

If you prefer being outside and don’t mind climbing stairs, you’ll love the second deck. Partly covered and partly open, it’s a great place for basking in the sun and spotting fish, sea turtles and other marine life.

The Yankee Freedom offers comfortable, entertaining daily voyages to the Dry Tortugas. (Photo courtesy of Yankee Freedom and Historic Tours of America)

Once the catamaran leaves its dock at Key West’s Historic Seaport, you can enjoy a bountiful breakfast on board. Shortly you’ll cruise past Boca Grande National Bird Sanctuary, Marquesas Key atoll, and the site of the shipwrecked Spanish treasure galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha. An onboard tour guide provides commentary along the way, sharing his knowledge of the area.

The Dry Tortugas are actually seven tiny coral-and-sand islets that were discovered in 1513 by Ponce de Leon. He named them “Las Tortugas” for the numerous turtles he discovered there — and when no fresh water could be found, the word “Dry” was added to their name.

Massive Fort Jefferson stands on Garden Key, the Tortugas’ largest island, taking up almost the entire land mass.

The fort dates back to 1846, and chances are you’ll find its history as intriguing as I did. Key West was a Union stronghold during the Civil War, so Fort Jefferson was used to house the Union Army’s prisoners — including Dr. Samuel Mudd, who set John Wilkes Booth’s broken leg after Booth shot President Abraham Lincoln.

America's largest masonry structure, the fort welcomes people eager to explore the Tortugas' natural and historic wonders. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Several years after his imprisonment, when the fort’s only doctor died in a yellow fever epidemic, Dr. Mudd treated other prisoners and soldiers who contracted the disease. Eventually, in part because of requests from his captors, President Andrew Johnson granted Dr. Mudd a full pardon.

Today, Yankee Freedom passengers can take a guided tour of the fort and view Dr. Mudd’s cell (bleak enough to make me shiver), or stroll the grounds on their own.

If you’re a birder, be sure to bring your binoculars. Hundreds of species can be found on nearby Bird Key, and you can walk outside the fort and search for them.

Snorkelers and swimmers, bring your bathing suits. Snorkel gear is provided, so you can slip into the crystal blue water for a pleasant hour of activity (you’ll find a shower on the Yankee Freedom that’s great for washing off saltwater).

Tortugas visitors can view seemingly endless vistas of sea and sky. (Photo courtesy of Yankee Freedom and Historic Tours of America)

And if you’re feeling lazy, simply relax on Garden Key’s sandy beach or under the trees.

Later, you’ll return to the boat for a buffet lunch of cold cuts, salads, sandwiches, and desserts set up by the crew — followed by more time to explore the fort and Garden Key. On one of my trips I was escorting a CNN reporter, and we climbed all over the fort shooting photos and checking out the panoramas of turquoise water and sky.

Passengers tend to be quiet on the journey back to Key West, lulled by the wash of waves, savoring a snack or drink as they recall the highlights of their day.

Whether you’re interested in history, architecture, birding, or just having a good time, you can’t beat a day trip to Dry Tortugas National Park. But don’t take my word for it … come down and experience it for yourself.

Topics: Highlights, History, Key West, On the Water, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive

Ken Nedimyer, a Florida Keys coral restoration expert, was recently named a CNN Hero for his pioneering efforts to develop techniques to preserve coral reefs and motivate the public to get involved in the cause.

Ken Nedimyer displays juvenile coral cuttings in his foundation's coral nursery. (Photo by Kevin Gaines, Coral Restoration Foundation)

Ken is the founder and president of the Key Largo-based Coral Restoration Foundation — an organization that’s doing remarkable work and providing tremendous hope for the future of coral reefs.

According to CNN officials, CNN Heroes are everyday people changing the world — dedicating their lives to giving back to communities, defending the planet by protecting the environment, helping others overcome obstacles or solving problems in a unique way. And Ken Nedimyer certainly meets those criteria.

More than 10,000 “heroes” are nominated each year from about 100 countries around the world. Approximately 25 to 30 heroes are profiled, and the top 10 are chosen at the end of the year by CNN’s editorial board to appear in a special CNN presentation — with each finalist receiving a $50,000 grant.

One of the honorees, to be voted by fans across the globe in the fall, is to be named CNN Hero of the Year, and will receive an additional $250,000 grant.

Ken’s nomination came from Gary Yoss, a diver from Wellington, Fla., who had seen his coral plantings on Molasses Reef off Key Largo.

Ken has been named a CNN Hero for his dedication and pioneering efforts in saving corals. (Photo by Kevin Gaines, Coral Restoration Foundation)

“I had to pinch myself; I’m pretty excited,” Ken said after learning about the honor. “It’s a huge endorsement not just for me, but for the foundation — and this really puts us on the radar.”

Now 56 years old, Ken began coral restoration research efforts about 10 years ago after being involved in tropical fish collecting and aquaculture.

Today, his goal — shared by his small but committed staff of marine scientists — is to restore, cultivate and plant staghorn and elkhorn corals, and hopefully reverse their endangered status.

The Coral Restoration Foundation’s one-acre coral nursery, located in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary off Key Largo, is possibly the world’s largest. It contains nearly 23,000 coral clippings that range from the length of a knuckle up to 15 inches.

The clippings are eventually transplanted to nearby reefs to grow and become independent structures, serving as habitat for a variety of tropical fish, and to subsequently reproduce to add further reef growth on the ocean floor.

“We can be proud hearing ‘Key Largo’ and ‘Florida Keys’ are taking measures to protect resources here,” Ken advised.

Overall, he has leveraged common-sense techniques and worked with scores of volunteers to succeed in an effort that some scientists thought was impossible.

Divers work in the Coral Restoration Foundation's coral nursery off Key Largo in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. (Photo by Tim Grollumund)

It’s an effort that dive-certified Keys visitors can assist — by joining Ken’s “workforce” for coral restoration. Several times a year, coral restoration workshops are based at Upper Keys inns and resorts, attracting visitors who learn about coral reefs and participate in working dives to help out at the nursery.

But it’s not just the Keys’ coral reef that can benefit from Ken’s work. His groundbreaking techniques are also likely to have positive impacts for coral reefs in other tropical areas.

“We are developing a concept we can take to other countries as well,” Ken said. “Ours is a message of hope — I’m convinced this is the solution that can work.”

For his passionate conviction, pioneering actions and dedication to saving endangered corals, Ken Nedimyer truly deserves his new title of “hero.”

Topics: Environment, Highlights, Key Largo, Profiles, Voices Main Archive

A big question I get from potential visitors is, “How do you get to Key West?” When I moved to the island, our airport sporting the famous airport code EYW had occasional air-conditioning, a few ceiling fans that turned, and a big hole in the wall through which our luggage was tossed. DC3 aircraft served the island from a couple of cities, along with an occasional Air Florida jet.

This engaging panorama by local artist Rick Worth graces the exterior of Key West International Airport.

Some people don’t realize that we now have a new modern airport with great airline choices. The terminal even showcases local artists’ work through our Art in Public Places program — and its exterior features a wonderful Key West mural painted by local artist Rick Worth.

EYW is now served by more connecting flights, from a larger variety of cities, than ever before. Don’t worry about flying those “puddle jumpers” (even though they’re really fun) as we have fewer of them than ever!

American Airlines’ loyal customers can connect through the newly renovated Miami International Airport (MIA) gate D60.  When I began flying AA, they brought box-like Shorts 360 aircraft to EYW. These funny-looking flying boxes gave you a shower from the air-conditioning if you sat in the front rows, and a roller-coaster ride in the back.

Beginning this summer AA, which has served EYW for years with a variety of aircraft, will be flying regional jet planes for the 25-minute ride.

Delta serves us out of Atlanta (ATL) with several daily regional jet flights and a daily big 737 with a first-class cabin for those who like to ride up front.

Visitors can either fly into Key West or drive the unique and scenic Overseas Highway. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

AirTran has now officially become Southwest. Though their booking websites have not completely merged, you can book a daily round-trip to the island from either Tampa International (TPA) or Orlando International (MCO). And flight frequency may increase, since Southwest normally operates several daily flights on its routes.

United and Continental are merging as well, and offer flights to EYW from both Tampa and Fort Lauderdale International (FLL). Their Beachcraft 19-seaters are soon to be gone, replaced by larger 29-seat Saab SF340 turbo-props.

Favorite New England-based Cape Air brings five flights per day from Fort Myers International (RSW) to EYW. Traveling in Cape Air’s signature nine-passenger Cessna 402s, passengers can connect through RSW from Jet Blue, American Airlines, and most other carriers with their through-baggage agreements.

Among other highlights of Key West’s new airport is the expanded Conch Flyer Restaurant. Long a favorite watering hole for locals, it still serves one of the best bowls of conch chowder on the island. Chock full of conch, potatoes and fresh carrots, this local-made chowder is even available to take home from the departure café and bar.

The new Flyer still has super burgers, BLT sandwiches, and great tuna salad — plus an outdoor “beach bar” complete with a waterfall and free WiFi.

John Richmond, owner of the Conch Flyer, indicates some aviation memorabilia on display at the popular bar and restaurant. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In other words, getting to Key West by air is just getting better than ever!

Of course, if you prefer, you can drive down on the scenic Overseas Highway, an unforgettable road whose 40-some bridges span the blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico. As well as unparalleled panoramas, this leisurely drive offers the chance to explore the Upper, Middle and Lower Keys.

You can always drive down from South Florida and book your return flight out of EYW … giving you the best of both worlds for your Key West experience.

Topics: History, Key West, LGBT

It’s not a brass or stringed instrument or a drum, but the fluted pink-lined conch shell is the instrument behind the Florida Keys’ most indigenous form of “musical” expression.

Key West's rich "conch" heritage is showcased by kids and grownups alike in the annual "conch honk." (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The art of conch shell blowing is demonstrated every March by novices and rare “pucker pros” at Key West’s annual Conch Shell Blowing Contest — which celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2012.

(Mercifully for most contestants, musical ability is not required, though some seasoned contest entrants can play recognizable tunes.)

The tradition of blowing a conch shell in the Florida Keys began long ago. In the 1800s, when the local economy was largely based on salvaging cargoes from ships wrecked on the nearby reef, sailors attracted attention by blowing piercing blasts on the shell.

“There wasn’t a ship that went out that didn’t have at least one conch shell on it for communications,” said veteran contest winner Clinton Curry.

Clinton Curry, the contest's 2008 winner, performed the amazing feat of tootling two shells simultaneously. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The Keys’ connection with conch, however, goes far beyond instrumental and communications applications. The shell of the queen conch is a symbol of the island chain, and the slightly tough meat of the hardy mollusk is the prime ingredient in conch chowder and conch fritters — two of the area’s signature dishes.

In addition, native Keys residents proudly proclaim their own tough, hardy nature by calling themselves “conchs” — pronounced konks — and their home the Conch Republic.

The republic was born April 23, 1982, after the U.S. Border Patrol set up a blockade that virtually stopped traffic on the only road from the mainland. In protest, local officials staged the Keys’ secession from the United States.

Even NBC "Today" weatherman Al Roker (left) and anchor Matt Lauer are fans of the Conch Republic! Here they display the republic's flag during a special broadcast from Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

After renaming the islands the independent Conch Republic, they declared war on the mother country, pelted federal agents with stale Cuban bread, surrendered after 60 seconds and demanded foreign aid (which, FYI, never arrived).

Today, Keys patriots fly the blue flag of the republic, whose motto is “We Seceded Where Others Failed,” and recall the secession with a lively festival each April. The 2012 Conch Republic Independence Celebration will take place April 20-29, highlighted by a 30th-anniversary re-enactment of the secession on April 23.

Before that, several dozen kids and adults are expected to compete in the 50th anniversary “conch honk” Saturday, March 3.

At the 2011 contest, a Key West musician nicknamed Mandolin Steve played parts of two classic rock songs on one pink-lined shell to take top honors in the men’s division. Steve Gibson blew recognizable excerpts (honest!) from the Rolling Stones’ “Satisfaction” and Deep Purple’s “Smoke on the Water,” earning the crowd’s vigorous applause for his pucker prowess.

Supporters of the quirky Conch Republic show their conch spirit each spring with a lively festival. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

“The trick is to get the shell vibrating, and that’s how you make the sound,” advised Steve, a repeat contender who has taken second place in past contests. “You’re doing it more with the ‘pfffftt’ noise than with the breath.”

Steve learned the “instrument” about five years before his victory while working as a 19th-century shipwreck salvage re-enactor.

“I don’t play the conch shell much because it’s so loud,” he admitted after his win, “but every now and then to scare my neighbor.”

Key West hotelier Kate Miano triumphed in the women’s division after blowing a strong 16-second blast to win a tie-breaker against another female contender.

The top group entry was a self-described “conchestra,” whose 24 members saluted the queen conch with a conch-shell accompaniment and offbeat dance to the strains of Abba’s “Dancing Queen.”

On March 3, entrants in the 50th annual contest will attempt to eclipse their predecessors’ musicianship. But even more important, they’ll demonstrate the strength of the conch connection … and honor an age-old Keys tradition.

Topics: Events, Festivals, Highlights, History, Key West, Local Color, Quirks, Voices Main Archive