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Keys June, 2012

The Night ‘Moses’ Came to Dog Beach

It’s amazing how far some Key West residents will go in the name of hospitality. Take me, for instance. A 30-year islander, I was once rather rowdy but eventually settled into being a sedate journalistic type. Until, that is, the night Moses came to Dog Beach. It happened many years ago, but the memory remains unnervingly fresh.

Famed photographer Slick Lawson shot the back cover image for Jimmy Buffett's "Last Mango in Paris."

Before he became a pseudo prophet, Moses was nationally renowned photographer Slick Lawson, a Nashville native who visited the Keys regularly. Veteran of Jimmy Buffett’s “Last Mango in Paris” album cover shoot and “People’s” attempt to immortalize former Pier House general manager Peter Henry, Slick was transformed after being baptized internally with Barbancourt rum.

Granted, many people have fallen victim to life-changing experiences in Key West’s assorted taverns. Few, however, have attempted to part the Atlantic Ocean and lead a flock to Cuba.

It all began innocently. After an evening of modest revelry, a group of us descended on Louie’s Backyard for a cocktail on the deck overlooking the ocean.

Built in the early 1900s, Louie’s is housed in a building that was originally the home of wrecking captain James Randall Adams. Captain Adams enjoyed boasting that everything in his residence was salvaged from ships wrecked on the nearby reef.

Louie's has been a Key West hotspot since it opened in this historic oceanfront house. (Photo courtesy of Louie's Backyard)

Louie’s opened as a restaurant in 1971 with one waiter, a cigar box cash register, and seating for 12. It quickly became famous for its cuisine, relaxed atmosphere, and well-known patrons — including entertainer/author Jimmy Buffett, novelist Tom McGuane, and Ten Speed, a legendary mutt who drank Kahlua and cream at the outdoor bar (but only if his drink was properly served on a napkin).

Ten Speed may not have inspired it, but the small stretch of sand beside Louie’s is called Dog Beach. Here canines frolic in the water and chase Frisbees or coconuts — and their daily gatherings are watched by the humans enjoying happy hour on Louie’s cocktail deck.

When we arrived, however, happy hour was long past. The tide was out, and the Atlantic was mirror-still and vodka-clear, seemingly stretching halfway to Cuba. Overhead, the full moon shone pale as bone.

A full moon is blamed for offbeat behavior in many places. In Key West, however, maybe because of the tidal pull, a full moon is lethal. A full moon in Key West could make Mother Teresa do the cancan.

Even a child can blow a conch shell more musically than Slick blew his impromptu horn. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Its effect on Slick Lawson was startling and immediate. Muttering something about the Red Sea, he walked as if he’d received a divine call — off the deck, down to Dog Beach, and across the sand and rocks into the water.

Naturally, I followed. This man was a high-profile guest, and I didn’t want to see “Prominent Photographer Drowns While Local Writer Watches” in the headlines next morning.

By the time I reached the water, followed closely by Slick’s drinking companions, the errant photographer was immersed up to his waist and had assumed an entirely new persona.

“Come, my children,” he intoned. “I will part the waters and lead you to Cuba!” And he swooped down on a five-foot piece of submerged PVC pipe, waved it triumphantly aloft, and headed for the open sea.

It was a stirring sight. Unfortunately, I had no desire to wade to Cuba. Slick’s compadres, however, seemed entranced and followed the wannabe Moses like an obedient flock. Resignedly, I splashed along in their wake.

Louie's waterfront cocktail deck is a great place for offbeat encounters between locals and visiting notables. (Photo courtesy of Louie's Backyard)

Suddenly a hideous noise split the night’s calm. Slick had discovered that, by blowing through his PVC pipe, he could create an ear-splitting honk like a conch shell being blown — badly. So he kept blowing it. Over and over and over.

Once we were all thoroughly wet (and temporarily almost deaf), apparently the excitement of leading a flock palled. The mock Moses turned and headed for the unused boat ramp leading up to the cocktail deck at Louie’s.

Gesturing magnificently out to the waters behind him, he leaned toward the bar’s fascinated patrons and prodded with a twinkle, “Now, tell me the truth. I know I didn’t really part the Atlantic Ocean — but don’t you think I dented it a little?”

It’s amazing how far some Key West residents will go in the name of hospitality. I, however, had gone far enough. Urging the pretend prophet and his flock safely ashore, I left them on the newly hallowed sands of Dog Beach.

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In-the-Know Tips for Visiting Key West

Wow!  Where did June go?  It’s the end of the month, but it seems like just yesterday we were celebrating Pride here in Key West. And speaking of visiting Key West, in this issue I’ll focus on some logistics and recommendations.

During Key West Pride, and all year long, blog author Steve Smith welcomes visitors to Key West.

Before you arrive, take a look at some of the resources available to help you plan your visit. Years ago I managed the Key West Business Guild office, where our phone rang off the hook and we mailed out thousands of envelopes full of brochures and maps to potential visitors hungry for information.

That was way before the Internet became the go-to source for travelers. Today you can visit the Guild’s website to view current listings of gay and allied businesses, upcoming events, and a map showing island highlights.

Another excellent resource is the Florida Keys & Key West website. The official site of the Keys tourism office, there you’ll find information about the destination in general, upcoming events, accommodations and activities, and a calendar that lists just about everything happening in Key West and throughout the Keys.

First-time visitors might consider flying into Miami International or Fort Lauderdale International airports and driving down to the island, booking your return flight from the Key West International Airport.

Visitors can fly into the Keys or drive the unique and scenic Overseas Highway. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The trip usually takes three to four hours — and once you reach the Keys and the Overseas Highway, you’ll traverse 42 bridges (one nearly seven miles long) over the Atlantic Ocean, Florida Bay and the Gulf of Mexico. As you might imagine, the panoramas of blue sky and blue water are breathtaking.

Great brochures are available on the Keys website to guide you as you drive the Overseas Highway. The Florida Keys Conch Brochure, available in nine languages, is a wonderful interactive driving guide telling you about all the areas of the island chain you’ll drive through.

Once you arrive in Key West and check in to your resort or inn, consider returning your rental car and renting a bicycle to explore the island. Many properties offer bicycles for rent — my visiting friends usually get theirs from the Moped Hospital on the corner of Simonton Street and Truman Avenue. The shop offers bicycles and Mopeds, and gives training for first-time Moped riders.

If you’re staying closer to the middle of the island, Eaton Bikes has two locations that offer bicycles including cruisers, tandems, road bikes, mountain bikes, and even trailers for kids. Rentals start from about $18 for 24 hours — and best of all, you don’t have to pay to park!

Key West's historic district is full of glorious old frame houses.

Believe me, there’s plenty to explore. Key West’s historic district, one of the largest in the country, is approximately one mile by two miles, and bicycles or Mopeds offer the easiest way to find the places you choose to visit. Parking for both is plentiful around almost every street intersection.

Take some time to ride down Fleming, William, Margaret and Frances Streets. You’ll discover some amazing homes and businesses nestled under blooming Royal Poinciana and frangipani trees, and you’ll see an abundance of avocado trees loaded with bright green fruit. Be sure to bring your camera — we have incredible lighting here in Key West and almost every photograph will be “postcard’ perfect.”

If you’re here or arriving in the next week or so, catch the Sunset Reggae Fest at the Ocean Key Resort’s Sunset Pier with two of reggae’s legendary acts. The 32nd annual Hemingway Days celebration kicks off July 17, and for you runners, it includes the 5K Sunset Run starting at the Southernmost Point in the continental United States.

Next time I’ll chat about visiting our beaches, beachfront cafés and attractions, as well as upcoming events. There’s never a dull moment on this island!

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Kim Workman: The Art of Fish Rubbing

Some people are dedicated to catching fish, while others are dedicated to eating fish. Lower Keys artist Kim Workman, however, has dedicated much of her adult life to rubbing fish to create unique images.

The Lower Keys' Kim Workman is a master of the art of gyotaku. (Photos courtesy of Kim Workman)

Rubbing fish? Though mind-boggling to most in the Western world, this technique, known as gyotaku, is well known in the Japanese culture. Named combining the words gyo meaning “fish” and taku meaning “rubbing,” the art form originated in the mid-19th century as a way for Japanese fisherman to record the size of their catch.

Typically, the gyotaku process begins with placing the fish on a wooden bench and painting it with black sumi ink. White rice paper is then pressed over the fish and rubbed gently. When the paper is lifted, an exact black ink positive image is revealed. Kim enhances her fish images by adding watercolors.

In fact, Kim and her late husband Ian evolved the traditional art form into a process they called Kimian.

“Although both of us could print and paint, Ian did most of the fish rubbings and I did the paintings in bright bold colors,” Kim explained. “Because we created the art together we signed it combining our first names, Kimian. We called it ‘two arts beating as one’.”

Gyotaku artists take freshly caught fish and make trophy art prints from them.

The daughter of a marine conservationist and descendant of pioneer shrimpers, Kim grew up on America’s Gulf Coast.

“That great love of the sea was passed on to me,” she said. “Whether it was from childhood experiences or genetically inherited, the sea flows through my veins as it did my ancestors’.”

Kim discovered her talent for art as a child, but pursued another career as an adult. She owned a health club for 20 years and focused her time and energy on fitness.

Kim’s husband Ian was a marine biologist who shared her love of the sea and fitness. He even proposed to her while they were scuba diving in Cozumel, Mexico.

“Ian drifted past me holding a slate with the written words ‘will you marry me?’” Kim recalled. “Surrounded by beautiful coral and breathtaking tropical fish, I nodded yes.”

The couple married and opened a dive shop adjacent to Kim’s health club, while Ian also worked as a fishery biologist for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

Kim and Ian Workman, shown several years ago, work with a team installing their “Back Country” gyotaku on hand-made paper, mounted on canvas panels, in the airport terminal.

Kim rediscovered her love of art in the early 1990s when Ian introduced her to gyotaku, a process he studied in college for scientific purposes. The couple’s gyotaku paintings became so successful that they opened a gallery in 1992.

Subsequently, they began making frequent trips to the Keys — Ian for his work as a marine biologist, and Kim to print and paint fish.

“The Keys are so different from the Gulf Coast,” Kim Workman said. “I had never seen water so beautiful in the U.S. as it is in the Keys.”

The couple bought a home on Cudjoe Key in 2000 and relocated permanently in March 2003. Word quickly spread that they were taking freshly caught fish and making trophy art prints from them. Soon, Kimian art could be found in local galleries among other places, and in private collections.

In 2008, the Workmans were commissioned to create a large piece for the Key West International Airport terminal. It was the last piece they created together, and remains dearest to Kim Workman’s heart. Ian fell ill in October 2008 and died July 4, 2009.

The Workmans' large piece in the Key West International Airport terminal remains the one dearest to Kim's heart.

“I took a break from painting and printing for six months and wondered if I could ever paint again. I found I could and I did,” Kim said. “I knew Ian would be angry with me if I didn’t.”

Kim rediscovered her artistic passion in 2010 on a trip to Japan where she studied with master gyotaku artist Mineo Yamamoto. She also taught a gyotaku class to schoolchildren in Singapore and traveled the region with paper and ink.

Since returning home, Kim has expanded beyond prints and says she enjoys creating gyotaku-inspired sculptures and more. Today, her art can be found at several Keys galleries.

“I love traveling, but there is no place like home in the Keys,” she said, “with water that is the color of lime Jello and those beautiful reefs that can only be described as indescribable.”

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Big Pine Key Offers Enticing Low-Key Escape

Some 30 miles northeast of Key West and 20 miles southwest of Marathon lies Big Pine Key, home to a variety of attractions, things to do, and places to stay. Although sometimes overlooked by Keys visitors, Big Pine and the Lower Keys offer a lifestyle perfect for us seniors and others who want to take things slow and easy.

A subspecies of the Virginia white-tailed deer, the shy and engaging Key deer are approximately the size of a large dog.

Big Pine is home to the famous National Key Deer Refuge, where the diminutive animals roam freely, foraging for food and frolicking in the woods.

Many humans live within the 8,400-acre refuge too. My husband and I were among them, and the deer came right up to the fence surrounding our home, nuzzling the frangipani. One evening I took my camera and ventured into the field next to our property to document the friendliness of the small creatures. One tiny fawn came right up to me and put his face on the lens of the camera as I snapped his picture! The following Christmas my family members received t-shirts imprinted with the image.

The refuge was established in 1957 to save the diminutive animals, whose number at that time was about 50. Today the deer are no longer threatened by extinction and their number has increased to approximately 700 — making the refuge a wonderful environmental success story.

In 2003 the Florida Department of Transportation installed fencing and two vehicle overpasses along the Florida Keys Overseas Highway on Big Pine, so the deer can travel safely between the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico sides of the road.

The refuge’s visitor center is located in Big Pine Key Plaza; stop by to pick up information about the refuge and the deer themselves. Explore the area by hiking the Jack Watson Nature Trail, named for the refuge’s first director, and take as much time as you want to meander along the narrow path.

In the Lower Keys, you can head for a refreshing spot like the inviting beach at Bahia Honda State Park. (Photo by Bob Krist, Florida Keys News Bureau)

(Please remember, though, no matter where you encounter the tiny deer, no feeding is permitted.)

Another unusual sight on Big Pine is the Blue Hole, a freshwater habitat for wading birds. This was an old rock quarry used during the construction of Henry Flagler’s Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad, which connected the Keys to the mainland and each other for the first time in 1912.

Any angler will enjoy discovering the Old Wooden Bridge Guest Cottages & Marina, on the Gulf side of the island. This camp makes a perfect base for both offshore and backcountry fishing, and if you decide to spend a night or two, you can fish from the renowned bridge. Close by is the supremely laid-back No Name Pub, known for its amazing pizza. I have friends who come from Sarasota every year for a week’s stay to catch their dinner each night.

Not to be missed is Bahia Honda State Park, a few miles from Big Pine, where you’ll find the best beach in the Keys. You can take your beach chair and umbrella and settle down for a quiet afternoon with a book. An occasional dip in the water will keep you cool all afternoon. Those who enjoy camping can stay overnight, and cabins are available for the less hardy types. Reservations are required for tent space or cabin rental.

Looe Key Reef, renowned as one of the best reefs for diving, offers snorkelers and divers a rare opportunity to explore the coral and marine life found there. Just a few miles offshore, Looe Key is famous as the site of the Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival, an annual event that combines subsea musical entertainment with a focus on reef preservation.

Big Pine's Deer Run bed-and-breakfast takes its name from the tiny, shy Key deer that wander its tranquil grounds. (Photo courtesy of Deer Run)

Interested in some quality time in the unique Lower Keys? The eastern arm of Big Pine Key is the site of bed-and-breakfasts catering to those seeking a slow-paced sojourn surrounded by natural wonders.

For a relaxing vacation, you can’t beat the Big Pine Key area. Nature lovers, anglers, and those seeking a peaceful and quiet spot to while away the hours can find everything they seek on Big Pine.

 

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You Belong in the Keys if …

Let’s face it — there are some people who simply belong in the Florida Keys. Take me, for example. I was a naïve 20-year-old Minnesota girl when I first arrived in the island chain, taking a break from college and fleeing a sub-zero February.

Jimmy Buffett, the Keys' "pirate laureate," waves to some 3,500 "Parrot Head" fans during a 2011 surprise concert on Key West's Duval Street. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

I had only seen the ocean once before, and evergreens were a far more familiar sight than palm trees. Yet after just 48 hours in the Keys, I called my mother and told her to send my belongings — I had found my home and, mercifully, was smart enough to recognize the fact.

My story is absolutely not unique. Again and again, you’ll hear variations on the same theme. People come down for a vacation, a temporary job, a visit with an island-dwelling friend — and become mesmerized by some indefinable magic about the Keys that makes them unwilling or unable to leave.

So how can you tell if you’re among the lucky few that belong in the island chain? After 30 years of living here, I can offer a few tips. And if more than three or four of the following apply to you, you might as well start considering relocation — because sooner or later, that magic will sneak up on you and you’ll be powerless to resist.

Even Al Roker of the "Today" show, shown here at right during a live broadcast in the Keys, learned why Howard Livingston (left) penned "Blame It On the Margaritas." (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

1. You know all the words to at least four Jimmy Buffett songs and at least two by Howard Livingston. Buffett, the Keys’ “pirate laureate,” took inspiration for anthems like “Margaritaville” from his Key West days in the 70s and early 80s. And Howard, a Lower Keys resident whose Mile Marker 24 Band is a trop rock favorite, penned the equally meaningful “Blame it on the Margaritas.”

2. You have a strange urge to celebrate the nightly setting of the sun. In Key West, the nightly sunset is an excuse for a combination carnival and street party at Mallory Square overlooking Key West Harbor. With lively street performers and vendors selling creative handmade wares, it’s a happening that can’t be missed.

3. You can actually make a sound when blowing through a conch shell. Blowing the conch “horn” is a Keys tradition that dates back to the shipwreck salvagers of the early 1800s. Today, there’s an annual conch shell blowing contest in Key West — and a group of Key Largo denizens recently attempted to break a world record for the largest number of people “conch honking” simultaneously.

Captain Finbar Gittelman, a master seafarer with a roguish sense of humor, is the builder and skipper of the Schooner Wolf. (Photo by Rob O'Neal)

4. You’ve met Captain Tony. Or Captain Finbar. Or Captain Richard Stanczyk. Or all three of them. All three are Keys icons renowned for their storytelling as well as their other talents. Tony was the owner of Key West’s legendary Captain Tony’s Saloon, while Finbar skippers the majestic Schooner Wolf and reigns as admiral of the Conch Republic Navy. And Islamorada fishing captain Richard Stanczyk is world-renowned as one of the pioneers of daytime swordfishing.

5. You’ve eaten a Lobster Reuben at Keys Fisheries, hogfish at the Hogfish and breakfast with the roosters at Blue Heaven. Once you’ve sampled the renowned Lobster Reuben at Marathon’s waterfront Keys Fisheries, you’ll never crave a corned-beef Reuben again. Hogfish, caught only by spearfishing divers, is a light white fish best enjoyed at its namesake eatery. And Blue Heaven’s breakfasts? Savored in a funky open-air courtyard while semi-tame poultry scurry nearby, they’re simply beyond compare.

6. Every time you arrive in the Keys, your everyday stresses seem a little less important and you find yourself smiling. Need I say more? If this is true in your case, you might as well start packing … because the chances are awfully good that you, like me, simply belong here.

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Key West Pride … in Pictures

So you ask, “What did we do during Key West Pride?” How about a photo diary of our Pride 2012?

"Marilyn" and a canine companion were among the stars of Key West's Pride parade.

The events kicked off with Mayor Craig Cates issuing a proclamation that Key West Pride is a vibrant and important part of our community.

The Key West Business Guild welcomed everyone to its annual Pride membership mixer. Hosted annually by the Island House Resort, the event drew several hundred locals and visitors to tour the property while making new friends — and enjoying free-flowing libations and hors d’oeuvres served by eye-pleasing waiters.

Island House waiters welcomed Pride guests.

A fun crowd howled at the moon on Fury’s Moonlight Tea Dance adventure. We watched the island go by as a DJ spun tunes and we danced the night away. (Cameras were not allowed, however, since this was a clothing-optional party.)

Parasailing, jet skiing, snorkeling, swimming, and rock-climbing were highlights of Fury’s Ultimate LGBT Water Adventure — a day trip that included lunch.

Key West Pride's "royal family" is Kelly Jane Dufford, Ms. Pride; Michael Young, Mr. Pride; and Sassy Black, Miss Pride.

We also celebrated Pride with parties and pageants across Key West’s Old Town. Big Ruby’s Guesthouse threw a dance party complete with laser light shows, two DJs, food and libations. The Equator Resort was the scene of an afternoon barbecue pool party, while a dance party was held poolside at Pearl’s Key West.

We crowned Mr. Pride, Miss Pride, and Ms. Pride in front of cheering crowds at all three events.

Key West High School's Gay Straight Alliance brought activist Erin Davies and her famed Fagbug to town.

Key West’s Tropic Cinema hosted a film festival as well as a showing of the inspiring Fagbug documentary.

Alexander’s Guesthouse opened its doors for a “Traffic Light Poolside Party” supporting the “It Gets Better” project, which helps LGBT teens make it through trying times.

Barefoot Wine sponsored a community beach cleanup offering locals and visitors a chance to participate in a community service project.

The street fair drew crowds to Key West's renowned Duval Street.

Just when we thought it couldn’t get more fun, we threw a street festival with arts, crafts, community service organizations, live music and food galore.

Finishing off our Pride celebrations was a parade from the Gulf of Mexico down Duval Street. More than 50 entries drew cheers from every corner of the street. Island royalty, “Marilyn Monroe,” police officers on horseback and many others followed the parade route. The highlight was a 100-foot section of Key West’s sea-to-sea rainbow flag ending the festivities.

Key West's Pride parade featured a 100-foot section of the island's historic rainbow flag.

Key West might be a small island, but we certainly know how to have fun, entertain ourselves, throw a great event, and delight our visitors.

Look for me at St. Petersburg Pride Saturday, June 30, where I will have information about upcoming Key West events. (Yes, there are MORE events on the horizon!)

Editor’s Note: Heartfelt thanks go to Carol Tedesco, Larry Blackburn and Troy Petenbrink for sharing their wonderful Key West Pride photos here.

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Two Queens and Plentiful “Papas”

Key West is full of queens — from beloved drag queen Sushi to the annual queen of Fantasy Fest, crowned for raising more money than other royal hopefuls for the Keys’ respected AIDS Help organization.

Wilhelmina Harvey (left) presents Queen Elizabeth II with a conch shell -- allegedly setting off a fateful series of events. (All photos by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

But during the week of Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations, it seems only fitting to recall the British monarch’s visit to the Florida Keys, and her fateful encounter with the unofficial queen of the island chain.

On May 18, 1991, Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip visited Dry Tortugas National Park and Fort Jefferson, 70 miles west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico, on the royal yacht. There, they were welcomed by the late Florida Keys Mayor Wilhelmina Harvey — an iconic and beloved grande dame known for her candid yet slightly eccentric charm.

During the queen’s visit, Wilhelmina presented Elizabeth with a conch shell, the best-known symbol of the Florida Keys.

But the story didn’t end there — and it didn’t end well. Prior to her death in 2005, at age 93, Wilhelmina often recounted what occurred AFTER she gave the conch shell to the queen (although she was almost certainly too hard on herself, since there was never any valid proof of cause and effect.)

The queen and Prince Philip learn about the Dry Tortugas and Fort Jefferson from a park ranger.

You see, legend has it that, if a conch shell is taken inside a home, bad luck will befall the family that lives there.

Of course, no one told Queen Elizabeth or her staff about this. So when they returned to England, the shell was allegedly taken to Windsor Castle along with other gifts she received during her sojourn in America.

And what happened next? The queen’s Windsor Castle home was badly damaged by fire in November 1992 and her two sons, Charles and Edward, were divorced amid the glare of unfavorable publicity.

Ever after, Wilhelmina jokingly said her fellow Conchs blamed her for what happen in England — all from the curse of a Florida Keys conch shell.

(Trust me on this: if you take a conch shell home from the Keys, display it tastefully in your garden or on your patio or balcony. Or in your gazebo or garage. But do not, under ANY circumstances, bring it into the house!)

If you look like these guys -- shown cavorting onstage at Sloppy Joe's during the final round of the 2011 look-alike contest -- you could win a trip to Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

If you look like these guys, seen cavorting onstage at Sloppy Joe's during the 2011 look-alike contest's final round, you could win a trip to Key West.

If Wilhelmina Harvey was the unofficial queen of the Keys, surely Ernest Hemingway was the unofficial king of Key West. And he’s solidly in the spotlight this month after the June 1 launch of the Virtual “Papa” Hemingway Look-Alike Contest on the Florida Keys’ Facebook page.

The contest’s premise is simple: if you look enough like Ernest Hemingway, you just might win a trip to Key West to prove it. Hemingway, as fans of the author are aware, lived on the island throughout the 1930s and wrote some of his most enduring works there — including the Key West-based “To Have and Have Not,” his only novel set in the U.S.

If you’re a stocky bearded guy who looks like Ernest in his later years, you can submit a photo to the contest section of the Keys Facebook page. The aspiring Ernest with the best “look” will win a four-night, five-day trip for two to Key West to compete in a preliminary round of Sloppy Joe’s famed “Papa” Hemingway Look-Alike Contest during the island’s annual Hemingway Days festival (a salute to the author’s literary talent and exuberant Key West lifestyle, set for July 17-22 this year).

Paul Gagnon displays his resemblance to Ernest Hemingway during a past look-alike contest.

Only one photo can be entered per contestant, so Hemingway hopefuls are advised to (literally) take their best shot.

Submissions will be accepted through June 22, with public voting scheduled for June 23-29 to choose 10 finalists. But the ultimate decision, to be made by July 2, is in the hands of a panel of authentic experts on “Papa’s” look — members of the elite bearded brotherhood of past look-alike contest winners.

So, while it’s not possible to be Queen Elizabeth (or even Wilhelmina Harvey or Sushi), if you’ve got the right look it IS possible to be a proud “Papa” … and by Key West standards, that’s royalty enough.

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Key West’s Museums Offer a Unique View of the Island’s History

As a child, I went on many school-sponsored field trips to Chicago’s various museums. Those trips were supposed to broaden our education, but for the most part my friends and I just liked the idea of getting out of regular classes.

The Mel Fisher Maritime Museum contains artifacts salvaged by divers from the Nuestra Se–nora de Atocha, a Spanish galleon shipwrecked off Key West. (Photo by Pat Clyne, Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

The museums in many large cities feature historical items from centuries past, or paintings and sculptures by long-ago masters, housed in dignified stone buildings.

Key West’s museums, however, are a far cry from the typical. They reflect our way of life, our history, and in some cases our quirky sense of humor. Among our many museums, everyone — from kids to seniors — should find at least one that intrigues and excites. Here are just a few examples.

Interested in the treasures of the Spanish Main? The Mel Fisher Maritime Museum was founded by a treasure salvor who discovered the shipwreck of the Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha in the waters off Key West after a grueling 16-year search. Gold and silver, emeralds and antiquities from this 17th-century ship and its fleet-mate, the Santa Margarita, are displayed in the museum’s Greene Street building. In addition the unparalleled collection includes artifacts from the slave ship Henrietta Marie, also salvaged by Fisher and his crew.

Presidential descendants (from left) Margaret Hoover, Susan Ford Bales, Luci Baines Johnson and Clifton Truman Daniel gather at the Little White House Museum. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Then there’s the Harry S Truman Little White House Museum. During his 1945-1953 presidency, Truman spent nearly six months working and relaxing in the retreat that was called his Little White House. He even wrote to wife Bess, “I’ve a notion to move the capital to Key West and just stay.” The house, now Florida’s only presidential museum, is dedicated to the former president and contains such memorabilia as the piano he played and the cunningly camouflaged poker table where he and his cronies spent many evenings.

The Shipwreck Treasures Museum is dedicated to the wrecking or shipwreck salvage industry, which helped make Key West America’s richest city per capita during the mid-1800s. The call of “wreck ashore!” brought early Key Westers to the waters off the island, each hoping to arrive first at the sinking ship to rescue people on board and claim whatever could be salvaged. At the museum, a video tells tales of old Key West and its wreckers. And those who climb the steps to the museum’s observatory platform can scan the nearby waters for ships — much as the 19th-century captains did. It’s a long climb, but the view is worth it.

The striking red-brick Key West Muusem of Art & History at the Custom House overlooks Key West Harbor. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Key West also has a Lighthouse Museum. The only U.S. lighthouse within city limits, the light still stands beside the keepers’ quarters building — and visitors can step back in time to learn about the men and women who kept it burning. There’s a great view from the top of the lighthouse for those with energy enough to climb the 88 steps.

How about a museum spotlighting turtles? Yes, the Key West Turtle Museum in the Historic Seaport tells the story of Key West’s long-past turtle-fishing industry and contains artifacts and photographs detailing the island’s long relationship with sea turtles. Sitting on the site of a former turtle soup cannery, the museum adjoins the old holding pens or kraals. There’s even a restaurant nearby called, appropriately, the Turtle Kraals.

We also have a museum dedicated to the island’s Cuban heritage, the San Carlos Institute, founded in 1871. In 1892, it was from the institute that Cuban patriot José Marti united exiles for his drive for Cuba’s independence.

At the Key West Shipwreck Museum, visitors can "meet" wreckers and learn their fascinating stories. (Photo courtesy of Historic Tours of America)

Then there’s the Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House, where you can see rare Ernest Hemingway memorabilia and learn about the remarkable Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad, called the eighth wonder of the world upon its completion in 1912.

Of course, these are not Key West’s only museums and historic attractions. In fact, when you visit, it’s best to take two or three days if you want to tour them all. And the more you explore, the better you’ll understand and appreciate the quirky, individualistic island and its people.

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