Paula Deen’s husband looks a lot like Ernest Hemingway. I know this because the exuberant “Food Network” star was at Sloppy Joe’s Bar in Key West to cheer for her white-bearded spouse when he competed in the 2012 “Papa” Hemingway Look-Alike Contest.

Paula Deen tweaks her husband Michael Groover's Hemingwayesque beard as he prepares to compete in Sloppy Joe's "Papa" Hemingway Look-Alike Contest. (All photos by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

His name is Michael Groover, and Paula said he’d been telling her about the contest for a long time.

“We’ve been together probably 12 years and married almost nine, and the only thing that he has consistently said to me over the years is ‘I want to go win the Ernest Hemingway look-alike’,” she related.

He didn’t win this year, but he did make the final round — which Paula felt was fitting for several reasons.

“He has got the Hemingway soul,” she said in her rich Southern voice as she watched the final round at Sloppy Joe’s, surrounded by the wives of former winners and longtime competitors. “He’s all man, honey — he’s truthful and honest and (has) really got the spirit.”

He also has a striking, dark-browed look of Ernest Hemingway in his later years. And if his and Paula’s schedules permit, with luck Michael will return next year to continue his quest for the title of Papa.

Greg Fawcett (second from left), gives an exuberant salute just after winning the 2012 contest.

If he does, he’ll be judged by a panel that includes 64-year-old North Carolina investment banker Greg Fawcett, who won the 2012 contest on his 10th attempt.

“Thank you, Ernest!” Greg hollered as his name was announced and the judges — all past winners — swarmed to congratulate him, slap him enthusiastically on the back and welcome him to their exclusive fraternity.

Greg credited his win mostly to establishing a camaraderie with the judges and being willing to help with their activities and support their scholarship fund.

The Papas, by the way, have raised and awarded more than $100,000 to Florida Keys students over the years … an incredible amount.

Paying attention to the Hemingway look, Greg said, was another big part of the winning equation.

“I started timing my haircuts and making sure my beard was the right length so that I fit the profile,” he admitted.

Greg (center) is welcomed to the bearded brotherhood by former look-alike winners -- including 2011's Matt Gineo, shown here bestowing the traditional smooch.

Obviously, he got it right. But like many other Papas, Greg shares more than just a physical resemblance with the literary legend who lived in Key West throughout the 1930s.

“I’m an avid hunter, and I live on a lake so I literally fish every day,” he explained after his victory. “Unfortunately I’m not a very good writer, but I can drink — so three out of four is pretty good.”

The look-alike contest is an undisputed highlight of Key West’s annual salute to its most famous literary resident. For Greg, however, as for most repeat competitors, the camaraderie is as important as the contest itself.

Aspiring Papas return year after year with wives or girlfriends (known, of course, as the Mamas), and often many other friends and family members, to be part of the bearded brotherhood whose closeness runs deep.

Surrounded by other Mamas, Paula Deen applauds the aspiring Papa she's married to.

“Coming down here is the highlight of my year,” Greg said as he stood surrounded by his look-alike compadres. “I know these guys, I love these guys, and I’ve been friends with them for a long time.”

Despite being a “newbie” contest attendee, Paula Deen clearly felt the indefinable magic. Sitting at Sloppy Joe’s among the other Mamas, chatting happily with them and watching her husband compete, she wore the satisfied smile of a woman who was exactly where she wanted to be.

“This has been such a treat. I’ve eaten too much, I’ve slept too much, I’ve laughed too much — it’s been great and I’ve made some wonderful new friends,” she confided. “Yeah, I’m married to a Papa.”

Topics: Events, Festivals, Highlights, Key West, Local Color, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

The dog days of summer are just around the corner. The Romans referred to the dog days as diēs caniculārēs, and they were believed to be an evil time when the sea boiled, the wine turned sour, dogs grew mad, and all other creatures became languid. In the summer Sirius, the Dog Star, rises and sets with the sun.

"Blog Dog" Guilio chills out during the dog days with blog author Steve Smith (right) and a pal.

In Key West, we celebrate the dog days with Tropical Heat. Beginning Aug. 16, this event for the guys features boiling seas (okay, not really!), snorkeling, kayaking, pool parties, toga parties, drag shows, steamy late-night gatherings and Gay Bingo.

This event is celebrated at different venues across the island, each with its own personality and flavor. The Blu Q offers daily snorkel and kayaking adventures complete with all snorkel gear, beverages and lunch. They also have daily sunset sails that welcome gay men, women, friends and families.

Big Ruby’s kicks off the Tropical Heat weekend with the “Una Noche Caliente!” clothing-optional meet-and-greet party. Starting at 6 p.m., look for a great DJ, open bar and catered hors d’oeuvres. Tour the gardens and hop in the pool or Jacuzzi to cool off (or raise the temperature!). After the party, cross Duval Street to Club Aqua for the “Reality is a Drag” show followed by dancing to the music of a resident DJ.

Tropical Heat features a warm welcome and fun ranging from pool parties to late-night soirees. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Business Guild)

Friday’s Splash pool party at Bourbon St. Pub’s garden bar will be filled with games, fun, DJ Neil, and a chance to soak up some Key West sunshine at the pool. Then grab your toga and stroll down Fleming Street to the Equator Resort for “Toga in the Tropics.” This annual party includes prizes for the most creative and the most revealing togas, and we will crown “Mr. Toga 2012.”

Between these fun events, sample some of the terrific restaurants Key West offers. The Key West Business Guild has a great listing of places to dine across the island.

Among them is Nine One Five, located at 915 Duval in a historic Victorian house and offering meals prepared by Chef Stuart Kemp, who was twice invited to serve his cuisine for the members of New York’s prestigious James Beard Foundation. (Inside tip: Nine One Five has specially priced appetizers and libations during happy hour.)

Bingo games on Sundays, directed by the lovely and talented Q Mitch, are among the reasons to come to Key West in any season.

Since 1971, Louie’s Backyard has offered oceanfront dining and a Caribbean/American menu. Sample Chef Doug Shook’s cuisine, seasoned with culinary influences from around the world and served on the restaurant’s multi-level oceanfront deck. From fresh Key West pink shrimp to chorizo-stuffed Berkshire pork, there are dishes to tempt every palate.

Tropical Heat’s Saturday and Sunday schedule is filled with dancing on four dance floors at Bourbon St. Pub with DJ/VJ Gary Nolan, foam parties, pool parties at the Island House and Gay Bingo at the 801 Cabaret with our own Q Mitch Jones.

Before you head home, try breakfast at Croissants de France. Now celebrating 25 years in Key West, this favorite eatery features authentic French pastries, soups, and sandwiches served in a tropical courtyard.

I’m on the move this month too. Look for me in Las Vegas at the National Lesbian & Gay Journalists Association convention Aug. 2-4, and at Northalsted Market Days in Chicago Aug. 11-12. See you next time, when I’ll talk about Womenfest 2012!

Topics: Events, Festivals, Food, Key West, LGBT, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

It wasn’t a big swordfish that mate Hunter Barron dragged over the transom of the Catch 22 on the afternoon of July 11 off Islamorada. But its weight of about 70 pounds really didn’t matter to the men involved in the landing.

Vic Gaspeny displays his 200th swordfish, and a collection of sizable dolphin fish caught. (Photo courtesy of Nancy Bennett)

Why not? Because the catch marked an incredible milestone for a 63-year-old Florida Keys light-tackle guide and his close friends, who worked together to pioneer fishing for swordfish (also known as broadbill) in broad daylight.

The catch was Vic Gaspeny’s 200th swordfish — believed to be the most ever caught by a single angler on a sport-fishing rod and manual reel.

Vic’s obsession with swordfish began June 22, 1978, when he caught his first one off Islamorada at night. He caught a second later that year off Maryland, and then none for 23 years because of depleted swordfish populations.

When the numbers returned to a healthy level, however, Vic was ready. In late 2001, he started fishing at night again — this time with his good friend Richard Stanczyk, owner of Bud N’ Mary’s Fishing Marina in Islamorada. On Dec. 17, 2001, he reeled in two of five swordfish caught on the boat Catch 22 that evening.

“That was when we realized that swordfish were swarming off the Keys, and we really became obsessed with them,” said Vic, who has led shallow-water anglers to bonefish and tarpon off the island chain since 1975.

Vic, Richard Stanczyk, Richard’s brother Scott (who captains the Catch 22), and Richard’s son Nick continued night fishing for swordfish off the Keys.

Richard Stanczyk (left) and Vic Gaspeny, pictured here in 2007, hold a swordfish Vic caught during daylight hours off Islamorada. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Then, after reading about a doctor who had caught swordfish during daylight hours off Venezuela, Vic persuaded the Stanczyks to try for a daytime broadbill off the Keys. The small 60-pound fish they caught Dec. 21, 2003, would revolutionize the way saltwater anglers pursue the highly prized game fish.

The entourage spent time and money to pioneer new techniques. They tested baits ranging from squid to pelagic fish belly strips, pioneered break-away sinker apparatus to get baits to the bottom of the ocean in depths up to 2,000 feet, and became experts at the game.

In June 2006 Vic realized daytime swordfishing was so productive that he completely gave up fishing at night. By then, he had caught 37 at night and three during daylight hours — an achievement worthy of any personal record book, especially when compared to many noted anglers.

According to the International Game Fish Association, William Boschen caught the first-ever swordfish on rod and reel in 1913 off Catalina Island, Calif. According to the IGFA website, fellow Californian Roy “Ted” Naftzger caught 49 between 1963 and 2002 (which, at the time, was believed to be the most ever caught by a single angler).

A swordfish leaps after being hooked off Islamorada. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

“Swordfish are powerful, have marlin-like speed and tuna-like stamina,” Vic Gaspeny stated. “They are a world-class game fish.”

On Nov. 11, 2007, Vic — who maintains a meticulous fishing database — caught his 100th swordfish, a 251-pounder.

“I never really had (quantity) goals; I just love catching them,” he said. “But when we got close to 100, that became a goal.”

On July 16, 2009, Vic caught his largest swordfish ever: a 410-pounder that fought well into the night. His 150th swordfish came 37 days later, and he scored his 199th fish on Christmas Eve 2011.

But that was followed by a long lull — because both the Catch 22, skippered by Scott Stanczyk, and the Bn’M, with Nick Stanczyk at the helm, simply were not available. Why? A high demand by customers who came to the Florida Keys from as far away as Australia to fish for swordfish.

“There really was no pressure,” Vic said. “If I went to my grave with 199, it would have been fine.”

There’s no chance of that now, since he boated his landmark 200th fish. Yet even after achieving the personal milestone, he’s not likely to stop targeting the species any time soon.

“It’s really not about the numbers,” Vic said simply. “It’s about the excitement of fishing for and pulling on them, and the joy of doing it with people who share the passion.”

Topics: Highlights, History, Islamorada, Local Color, On the Water, Voices Main Archive

Since the islands of the Florida Keys are surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, Florida Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, it makes sense that water plays an important part in the lives of Keys residents. And visitors from around the world are drawn here to participate in water activities from near-shore paddling to deepwater scuba diving.

A green sea turtle swims amid the Florida Keys coral reef tract near John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park in Key Largo. (Photo by Frazier Nivens, Florida Keys News Bureau)

But a state park underwater? You bet! I’m referring to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, and it’s located in Key Largo.

All up and down the Keys, we’re proud of and eager to preserve the beautiful coral reef that runs parallel to the island chain. It’s the only living coral barrier reef in the continental United States, and we care deeply about keeping it healthy.

John Pennekamp was a newspaper editor for the Miami Herald and a devoted conservationist. Among his achievements was helping establish Everglades National Park. He later helped get a state park created offshore along the Keys coral reef. Dedicated in 1960 to protect the reef, it now bears his name.

Pennekamp State Park was the first underwater park in the United States — and its water activities abound. Whatever your preference, you’ll find it here. For example, there’s a glass bottom boat tour where passengers can get an excellent view of the reef without getting wet. (If you’re a non-swimmer, that’s the way to go!) The tour takes you out to Molasses Reef, a little more than six miles offshore. The boat is accessible to those in wheelchairs, as are most activities in the park.

Visitors on the Spirit of Pennekamp tour boat peer through viewing ports above the coral reef. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

If you can swim, you can snorkel — no matter what your age. (I tried it, and it’s true!) After a brief lesson at the park, take a deep breath and immerse yourself in the underwater world. Pennekamp’s snorkeling tours usually go to reef areas where the water is from five to 15 feet deep.

Scuba training is available at Pennekamp as well, and the diving is so spectacular that Key Largo is known as the dive capital of the world. The park offers a one-day resort course to introduce novices to diving the reef — so even if you’ve never tried the sport, you can take advantage of this wonderful opportunity.

But not all activity is focused on the offshore waters. The mangroves that abound in the park provide a natural habitat for a variety of birds, and bird lovers with binoculars can take a kayak or a canoe out to explore the mangrove wilderness. Canoeing in the backcountry waters has been a favorite activity of mine since I was a young woman.

Even if you’re a total landlubber, you’ll find opportunities for enjoyment at Pennekamp. Try embarking on the boardwalk trail through the mangroves, where hikers can view the unique ecosystem, or follow another trail through the hardwood hammock of the park. These are loop trails so you end right back where you started.

Kayakers paddle along mangroves at Pennekamp, which encompasses 70 square miles of coral reefs, seagrass beds and mangrove forests. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

While I didn’t hike the trails during my most recent Pennekamp visit, the picnic areas drew my eyes. Although no ground fires are permitted in the park, barbecue grills are provided so picnickers can savor hot dogs (or even steaks!) after a day on or around the water.

Camper? The park has great camping facilities too. Whether you favor a tent or an RV, there are full-facility campsites complete with water, sewer hookups, electricity, picnic tables and grills. What more could you ask? Even furry friends are welcome if they behave themselves.

All in all, John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park offers something for everyone. After dinner, the kids can enjoy the playground while Grandma and Grandpa relax with friends around the picnic table or take a sunset stroll. And campers are pretty well guaranteed to sleep soundly after a day spent exploring the world’s first underwater park.

Topics: Environment, Highlights, Key Largo, On the Water, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive

During the 1930s, when Key West was hit so hard by the Great Depression that it was forced to declare bankruptcy, Ernest Hemingway’s love affair with the island led to the creation of one of his best-known novels.

Toured by scores of visitors daily, the Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum is the focus of Key West's literary heritage. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Fascinated by Key West’s rowdy atmosphere and spectacular fishing (like so many of us!), Hemingway was the first popular author to make it his home. During the Depression, he described the town, and used some of its residents as inspiration for unforgettable characters, in “To Have and Have Not.”

It was the only novel Ernest ever set in the United States — which illustrates just how much the island, his home throughout the 1930s, meant to him.

So it’s fitting that the 2012 Hemingway Days celebration honors more than Ernest’s literary talent and exuberant Key West lifestyle. Set for July 17-22, it also honors the 75th anniversary of the publication of “To Have and Have Not.”

FYI, the Hemingway era was just the beginning of Key West’s popularity with world-class writers. In the 1930’s, John Dos Passos, Hart Crane, S.J. Perelman, Archibald MacLeish, and Wallace Stevens began visiting the island. Tennessee Williams lived on a quiet side street from the late 1940’s until his death. And poet Robert Frost was a regular guest of Key West grande dame Jessie Porter Newton.

In fact, for 75 years or so, Key West has been a haven for some of America’s leading writers. The tiny island has been home to Elizabeth Bishop, Richard Wilbur, Alison Lurie, Robert Stone, Thomas McGuane, Jim Harrison, Philip Burton, Judy Blume, Nancy Friday, Shel Silverstein, Ann Beattie, Jimmy Buffett, Philip Caputo and Mark Childress among many, many others — an astonishing listing for such an out-of-the-way spot.

Author Lorian Hemingway (right) is joined at a Key West book signing by her daughter Cristen, also a writer and editor. (Photo courtesy of Katharine Roach)

Lorian Hemingway, author of the critically acclaimed “Walk on Water,” “Walking into the River” and “A World Turned Over,” has been coming to Key West since the late 1960s.

She’s also Ernest Hemingway’s granddaughter, but her passion for the island city stems from far more than family ties.

“What I like best about Key West is being able to watch the full moon set over the water and the sun begin to rise at the same time … the way the constellations look in that saltwater bath of night air, precise and diffuse at once … the fishing, definitely the fishing, off any bridge, any time of day or night,” she says. “And the people, who know what all this means.”

In fact, Hemingway Days’ literary highlight each year is the announcement of the winners of the Lorian Hemingway Short Story Competition. This year, that takes place at 8 p.m. Friday, July 20, at a reception at Casa Antigua in Key West’s historic Old Town.

The short story competition was created in 1981 to recognize the efforts of talented emerging writers, and Lorian has directed it ever since. It draws more than 1,000 entries each year from aspiring fiction writers from the U.S. and many other countries.

Lorian Hemingway and Casa Antigua owner Mary Ann Worth share a quiet moment in the historic property's atrium garden. (Photo by Tom Oosterhoudt, Conch Color)

The awards ceremony includes a reading of the winning story and a presentation on Casa Antigua by Tom Oosterhoudt, who owns it with his mother Mary Ann Worth — plus guided tours of the architecturally unique property.

Casa Antigua is the ideal site for the event, since it was Ernest Hemingway’s first residence in Key West. There, serendipitously delayed on his way from Cuba to the mainland, he wrote, relaxed and began his decade-long love affair with the island.

The property itself is as fascinating as its history. Its most notable feature is a soaring atrium garden, open to the sky, and the truly unique living spaces built around the garden on three levels.

So whether you “have” or “have not,” try to be in Key West for the awards ceremony. Discover the island’s literary spirit at Casa Antigua, marvel at the landmark property during a guided tour — and, if you’re very lucky, perceive the presence of Ernest himself.

Topics: Arts, Events, Festivals, Highlights, Key West, Voices Main Archive

I’m posting my blog while on holiday in the United Kingdom, where hubby Paul and I began in London and then headed for Manchester. We met with friends from Manchester, Barnsley, and Worksop where our friend Julian is spending a few months off the rock. (It’s interesting being in a country whose summer weather is close to Key West’s winter season temps!)

Blog author Steve Smith and friend Andrew Darby enjoy the English sun in Manchester. (Photo courtesy of Steve Smith)

From Manchester we traveled to Torquay, considered part of the “English Riviera.” We are now in Weymouth to see the Olympic Torch carried through the streets and across the harbor before we head back to the Keys.

My last writings offered tips about getting to Key West and getting around Key West. This week, it’s time to explore the island.

Grab your camera, swimsuit and towel and head to one of my favorite starting points — the Coffee Plantation on Caroline Street.  Owners Theo and Dianne Glorie traveled the United States before deciding to make Key West their home. They opened the coffee shop in 2003 and offer coffees and espresso drinks, fresh-baked pastries, and light lunches. While you’re there, you can surf the net on free wireless and chat with Theo (pronounced Tay-o) and Dianne, who are happy to share tips about things we locals enjoy doing.

From the Plantation you can stroll to the Historic Seaport and harbor walk. In the early 19th century, fishing and sea-related activities (including the lucrative business of salvaging shipwrecks) were at the basis of Key West’s economy with most of this activity taking place at the Historic Seaport.

Key lime pie guru Kermit Carpenter doesn't really throw pies at visitors -- or does he?

At the seaport you can book snorkel trips, all-day adventures, and sunset sails on both the Fury and Sebago. This is also the boarding location for snorkel and sunset trips offered by the gay water adventure Blu Q.

After your waterfront stroll, stop by Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe on Elizabeth Street and indulge in one of his frozen chocolate-dipped slices of Key lime pie. Kermit is usually on hand at the shop, and will gladly join you for a memorable picture in the unique emporium or beside its adjacent pond full of giant koi.

After that, take a bike ride down Elizabeth Street to the Key West Cemetery. Touring a cemetery might not be at the top of your “to do” list, but I’m sure you’ll find this one a fascinating place to spend a couple of hours.

There’s even a downloadable walking tour that directs you to interesting points including the U.S.S. Maine Memorial and the grave of B. P. (Pearl) Roberts, a local hypochondriac whose epitaph reads, “I told you I was sick.”

Next stop is Fort Elizabeth Taylor (perhaps more widely known as Fort Zachary Taylor), a historic Civil War fort, state park and great beach. The park’s nominal entry fee includes a self-guided tour of the picturesque fort, which was completed in 1866.

The beach at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park is Key West locals' favorite for its clear Atlantic Ocean waters and near-shore snorkeling.

Then make your way to the beach and the rock jetty at the far end — a wonderful spot for pictures that has a lovely area for sunning and swimming. Freshwater showers are available near the park’s Cayo Hueso Café.

After this long day, try some of our lively nightspots and restaurants — a list is viewable on the Key West Business Guild’s website. Be sure to check out the events on the guild’s site as well as on the Florida Keys tourism council’s site, which covers events in Key West and throughout the other Keys. Upcoming events include Tropical Heat in August and Womenfest in September.

Till next time!

Topics: Key West, LGBT, Local Color, On the Water

It’s not uncommon for people to immerse themselves in televised reality shows, becoming “Survivor” fanatics, obsessively following a couple on “Dancing with the Stars” or tearfully mourning the departure of an unsuccessful “American Idol” contestant.

These strange "undersea creatures" were spotted in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary during a past Underwater Music Festival. (Photo by Bill Keogh, Florida Keys News Bureau)

But only in the Florida Keys this year, on July 14, can you TRULY get immersed in the action. That’s when part of the continental United States’ only living coral barrier reef becomes a stage for “reefality show” personalities during the Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival.

For this to make any sense at all, you need to know a little background on the festival. The underwater concert has been taking place annually for more than 25 years, presented by local radio station US1 at Looe Key Reef, about six miles south of Big Pine Key in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary.

“This is one of those quirky Keys events that bring people together close to their environment, close to the water,” said festival founder Bill Becker of US1. “It’s a very significant event for a lot of people down here because it’s music underwater celebrating the coral reef.”

Tea, anyone? Divers at a previous Underwater Music Festival staged a wacky "Alice in Wonderland" takeoff featuring the "Mad Haddock's" tea party. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

And, yes, divers and snorkelers who take part really DO hear music underwater. The music — water-themed selections ranging from the Beatles’ “Yellow Submarine” and Jimmy Buffett’s “Fins” to the theme from “Titanic” (!) — is broadcast on US1, and piped beneath the waves by special speakers suspended beneath boats positioned above the reef.

“We look for music that sounds good underwater,” Bill explained, “music that has that kind of ethereal quality that makes you think of being underwater.”

The 2012 festival theme comes in part from a musical phenomenon: the television program “American Idol” — renamed “Underwater Idol” since it takes place on an ocean-floor stage. Attendees might spot “sea-lebrities” like former judge “Simon Coral” and current judge “J. Lo Tide,” or even famed former winner “Carrie Undersea.”

Could these divers, playing August Powers' instruments, be rehearsing for their "Underwater Idol" appearances? (Photo by Bill Keogh, Florida Keys News Bureau)

But the festival isn’t just being staged as a take-off of “American Idol.” Divers and snorkelers will likely see participants costumed to salute other “reefality” shows “Dancing with the Stars” (here dubbed “Dancing with the Starfish”) and “Survivor” (recast as “Subsea Survivor”).

And there will be plenty of instruments on hand in case they want to toot their own horns. “Reefality” show personalities can “play” underwater musical instruments like a trom-bonefish, clambourine and sax-eel-phone sculpted by talented Florida Keys artist August Powers. Born in August’s imagination and then carefully crafted, each instrument playfully incorporates the characteristics of an undersea creature.

Speaking of playful, a couple of years back the Underwater Music Festival saluted the classic tale “Alice in Wonderland.” The highlight was a sea-floor tea party featuring divers costumed as Alice, the “Mad Haddock,” “Cheshire Catfish” and others spoofing the story’s memorable characters.

According to participants, the underwater sound even attracted some indigenous residents of the reef — fish that, one diver swears, were moving to the beat.

Samantha Langsdale, dressed as a mermaid, blows air through a "musical instrument" sculpted by Lower Keys artist August Powers. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

If the Underwater Music Festival sounds a little offbeat, remember that “offbeat” is often the norm in the Keys — and the popular festival’s quirkiness is part of its considerable appeal.

Plus, the event is really a lighthearted way to communicate a serious message of coral reef preservation. The musical broadcast features plenty of diver awareness announcements, which spotlight ways to enjoy the reef while minimizing impacts on the underwater environment.

And that’s a “reefality” check that should be music to any Keys fan’s ears.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Events, Festivals, Highlights, Local Color, On the Water, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

July in Key West means Hemingway Days, the island’s annual celebration of Ernest Hemingway’s birthday, and one of the festival’s most popular events is Sloppy Joe’s “Papa” Hemingway Look-Alike Contest. Large men sporting beards, some wearing khaki pants held up with rope belts, wander the streets and occupy the barstools of Key West’s watering holes, each hoping to be named the year’s look-alike winner.

The late Tom Chadwick is fondly remembered by his fellow Hemingway look-alikes and fans. (Photo courtesy of the Hemingway Look-Alike Society)

The Look-Alike Contest is unlike most other contests in that rotund seniors can enter repeatedly, and most don’t win on their first try. One of the most persevering contestants was Tom Chadwick, who passed away last August. He’s probably best described in the tribute here, written by his and his wife’s good friend, Bunny Carey.

“He was in last year’s contest, and this year would have been 29 years in a row he participated. Tom was known as the ‘Horny Papa,’ since he always wore a Viking hat with horns in the contest. Last year he donated this hat to be auctioned off for the Hemingway scholarship drive, fetching $400. It is now on a plaque, with his name, at Sloppy Joe’s Bar in Key West.

“Tom was an annual favorite when he went onstage and announced, ‘Well, how do you like me so far?’ We not only liked him, but loved his enthusiasm and zest for life. Although he never won, he was always a winner, and all who knew him loved him.

“I like to recall Tom sitting at Sloppy Joe’s Bar, as he did many times, saying, ‘I’ll have another!’ Of course, he always bought drinks for everyone else, as he was also a great ‘Papa.’ I’d like to think he’s on a cloud with other lost look-alikes, along with the original, one-and-only Ernest Hemingway — with drinks on the house for all.

Shown here participating in Sloppy Joe's "Running of the Bulls," Tom (center) loved camaraderie and cocktails -- and that's no bull! (Photo courtesy of the Hemingway Look-Alike Society)

“Tom was the true reflection of ‘The Old Man and the Sea.’ He was attracted to the sea as a young man and served in both the U.S. Navy and the U.S. Coast Guard. He passed away as a sailor at sea while on a Caribbean cruise with his wife at the young age of 84.

“I met Tom on a cruise over 20 years ago. He was at the bar, and his (first) words were, ‘Hi, I’m Tom. Can I buy you a drink?’

“His memory is one that makes my heart smile, and I’ll drink to that.”

I never knew Tom Chadwick, but I have had the privilege of knowing many other participants in the Look-Alike Contest — some winners, some perennial hopefuls.

Among them are previous winners Jack Waterbury, a former airline pilot who still has a roguish twinkle in his eye; Bill Young, a gentle man and a gentleman who actually met Hemingway in Spain; and Fred Johnson, longtime guiding spirit behind the look-alikes’ fraternal society.

Each year "old guys rule" in the "Papa" Hemingway Look-Alike Contest. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

I also recall some who have competed for many years, returning annually to enjoy the camaraderie of their fellow contestants, and to try once again to be known as an Ernest Hemingway look-alike winner.

This year’s Look-Alike Contest will be held, as always, at Sloppy Joe’s, beginning July 19. The finals are scheduled for July 21, when yet another stocky, bearded senior citizen will be named the winner. So if you’re in town during the Hemingway Days festival, join the crowd at this unusual competition — a big-as-life example of the popular contemporary catchphrase “Old Guys Rule.”

Topics: Events, Festivals, Highlights, Key West, Local Color, Profiles, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive