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Keys Big Pine Key & Lower Keys

The Wandering ‘Flower Dog’

My husband and I got married in a Florida Keys park beside the Atlantic Ocean, less than half a mile from the home we still share.

Was it the bride or the groom that the passing angler was trying to rescue from matrimony? We'll never know. (Photo by Richard Watherwax)

We wanted a simple wedding, one that reflected the easygoing way we live. We had no idea that our ceremony would be serendipitously blessed by a pod of dolphins frolicking just offshore, or that our golden retriever “flower dog” would unexpectedly abandon his duties and take off, tail wagging, for the nearby beach — followed by our startled four-year-old flower girl.

And we certainly didn’t expect that a sport fishing boat would motor by and one of its anglers would offer us a wedding-day message.

Spotting the celebratory crowd, and a man and woman obviously about to tie the knot, he cupped his hands around his mouth and hollered across the water, “It’s not too late — JUMP! We’ll pick you up!”

Was he trying to rescue my husband-to-be from the perils of matrimony? Or me? We’ve laughed about the incident many times since that day, but we’ll never know.

Actually, we’ve laughed about a number of offbeat wedding occurrences (including the wandering flower dog). Though we could have held our ceremony practically anywhere in the U.S. or Caribbean, we know our beloved Keys were the perfect spot.

Couples in love can have a dolphin for their "best man" at Islamorada's Theater of the Sea. (Photo courtesy of Theater of the Sea)

We’re far from alone; the Florida Keys are one of the country’s top wedding destinations.

Why? For one thing, the attitude is very easygoing and informal — which means much of the stress of typical wedding planning simply doesn’t happen. Terrific planners can be found from Key Largo to Key West to handle every detail.

Plus, a visit to the Keys is generally regarded as a lighthearted vacation occasion for the entire wedding group — so the experience of the wedding becomes a unique, eagerly anticipated occasion for everyone involved.

And once the wedding party and guests arrive, they’ll be happily entertained. So many activities can be arranged for family and friends — from deep-sea fishing to tall ship sailing excursions to salon services — that the bride and groom don’t need to worry about taking care of their guests. Instead, they can focus on the deepening of their relationship and their lives together.

Another plus is that, while the Keys certainly host formal weddings, many are delightfully informal. The “tux and unflattering bridesmaids’ dress” cliché simply doesn’t have to apply.

What could be more romantic than a horse-drawn carriage as your wedding transportation? (Photo courtesy of Island Horse Drawn Carriage, Inc.)

Shorts or khakis for men and pretty sundresses for women are popular wedding attire, making the wedding a more laid-back and comfortable experience for the whole group (and eliminating the cost of an item that’s worn only once).

And the food options couldn’t be better — whether gourmet or waterfront casual. Many Keys restaurants overlook marinas, beaches or world-class sunset spots, and can easily accommodate groups.

Imagine a reception menu of fresh local seafood: sweet Key West pink shrimp and stone crab claws, conch fritters and chowder, Key lime pie and dishes with a Caribbean or Cuban flair.

Naturally, more traditional cuisine is also available — and trust me, Keys caterers are happy to provide full onsite service at wedding hotspots like Key West’s Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum.

Golden retrievers make excellent "flower dogs" for Keys weddings -- unless they wander off! (Photo courtesy of Crystal Ruffo)

Looking for a setting for intriguing wedding photos? Try the water’s edge with a famed Keys sunset as the backdrop, a historic Civil War-era fort, the Southernmost Point that marks the southernmost spot of land in the continental U.S., or the tiny island of Pigeon Key beneath the Old Seven Mile Bridge near Marathon.

Or pose in a horse-drawn carriage on an Islamorada beach, or cruising on Key Largo’s restored African Queen (yes, the actual boat used in the classic Bogart film).

In fact, if you’re making wedding plans of any kind, consider saying your “I Dos” in the Keys. Just remember to avoid wandering anglers — and keep an eye on your flower dog!

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Andrea Paulson: Exploring the Unspoiled Lower Keys

More than 13 years ago, Captain Andrea Paulson began exploring the Lower Keys backcountry as a weekend alternative to Key West shopping for herself and other fishermen’s wives.

Andrea Paulson's easygoing attitude and love of the Keys' ocean realm make her the perfect guide for backcountry kayak trips. (Photos courtesy of Andrea Paulson)

She discovered she loved the experience so much that it seemed only natural for her to share it with others — which led to a career and a richly rewarding life.

Today, Andrea entertains hundreds of Florida Keys visitors annually with her Reelax Charters Lower Keys backcountry kayak excursions.

A 20-year Keys resident and lifetime outdoor enthusiast, Andrea named her business Reelax Charters for her nickname “Ree” and the relaxing experience participants enjoy.

Originally from Rochester, N.Y., she grew up boating and canoeing on Lake Ontario. A true water lover, she even worked as a lifeguard on the beach.

Andrea met her husband, Bobby Paulson, while visiting a friend who owned the house he was renting.

“I came down and was expecting to meet some old salty captain,” she recalled. “We met and that was it; it was kind of love at first sight.”

Adventures in the Keys' shallows and uncharted islets await Reelax Charters' guests.

After a long-distance romance that often involved commutes back and forth from Palm Beach, she moved to the Keys permanently in 1993.

While her husband is out guiding flats-fishing trips, Andrea guides her clients on a journey by motorboat seven to nine miles off the Lower Keys. There they begin their kayak adventure in a realm of crystal clear waters, remote islands, pristine beaches, shallow flats, mangroves and more.

While exploring, kayakers enjoy an “off-the-beaten paddle experience,” discovering islands and areas unreachable by kayak alone. They might spot native Keys wildlife like great white herons, ibis, starfish, stingrays, colorful tropical fish, sea turtles and even a dolphin or two.

Offered daily by appointment from Sugarloaf Marina on Sugarloaf Key, Reelax Charters’ fully customized kayak excursions are an escape in time. Participants begin at their leisure — and Andrea doesn’t watch the clock while guests are having fun. Most tours last four to five hours and accommodate up to six people.

A few couples, clearly romanced by the natural beauty of the Florida Keys, have even gotten engaged or tied the knot on one of Andrea’s private kayak excursions.

Bobby, Andrea and puppy Clark share a moment of "reelaxation" on the water.

Families too find themselves captivated by Reelax Charters’ adventures, and the captain keeps books and literature on hand for kids to use in identifying Keys wildlife.

“I love my job, and when I’m not working I’m out exploring new areas by kayak,” Andrea admitted. “The best part (of my job) is ending the day with a hug from a customer because we’ve had so much fun together it’s almost like we’ve become best friends.”

During her free time, Andrea often finds herself kayaking, fishing with her husband and entertaining other fishermen’s wives. She also enjoys “downtime” with her husband and their yellow Labrador puppy, Clark.

Like a true Paulson, Clark loves the water. In fact, most likely he’ll be spotted exploring the Lower Keys backcountry by kayak sometime soon!

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Do Fish Say Cheese? Keys’ Underwater World Inspires Photography and Art

The Florida Keys’ underwater world, featuring the continental United States’ only living coral barrier reef, draws divers and snorkelers from literally around the globe to explore its wonders.

Photographer Don Kincaid documented much of the search for the shipwreck of the 1622 Spanish galleon Atocha off Key West.

That world also inspires Keys-based artists and photographers passionate about documenting, memorializing and capturing it in their work.

For example, there’s longtime Key West resident Don Kincaid, who calls himself a “treasure diving photographer.” What that intriguing title actually means is that he played a vital role in the discovery of the shipwrecked Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha off Key West.

As a kid, Don snorkeled the waters around the island and became fascinated with ocean life and historic shipwrecks. He turned that fascination into a career when he met Mel Fisher — the eccentric visionary who spent 16 years seeking the Atocha’s treasures and artifacts — and began photographing the quest.

Key Largo-based Stephen Frink turned his passion for the undersea realm into international success. Today he’s one of the world’s most published underwater photographers.

Stephen Frink's work includes this iconic underwater photo of Key Largo's bronze Christ of the Abyss sculpture. (Photo by Stephen Frink)

He’s also a savvy photojournalist whose accomplishments include spending 17 years with Skin Diver magazine and nine years with Scuba Diving magazine — plus authoring a coffee-table book titled “Wonders of the Reef.”

Stephen is a strong supporter of the Keys’ long history of marine conservation. Viewing images of the underwater world, he believes, can inspire people to work for reef protection.

That belief is shared by marine life artist Wyland, who lives in the Upper Keys. Wyland is best known for the gigantic marine life murals he’s created around the world to promote ocean conservation.

It’s almost impossible for Florida Keys visitors to miss his 7,500-square-foot panorama of the Keys’ living coral reef that adorns all four sides of a Key Largo building — or his large-scale reef life murals in Marathon and Key West’s Historic Seaport.

In fact, his Keys murals are seen by millions of people, showing them the beauty of the area’s underwater world and encouraging them to value and protect it.

Kim and Ian Workman, shown several years ago, help install their “Back Country” gyotaku creation in Key West's airport terminal.

Lower Keys artist Kim Workman relies on the area’s underwater creatures for more than inspiration — they’re the actual medium for her art! A master of the traditional Oriental art form of gyotaku or fish rubbing, she has spent years memorializing local finned and gilled denizens.

Typically, the gyotaku process begins with placing the fish on a wooden bench and painting it with black sumi ink. White rice paper is then pressed over the fish and gently rubbed — and when the paper is lifted, an exact black ink positive image is revealed.

Kim makes her fish art “pop” by adding vibrant watercolors. Key West travelers can see her most dramatic piece, a large-scale gyotaku collage created a few years back with her late husband Ian, hanging in the island’s airport terminal.

A lovely mermaid "plays" one of August Powers' "fishy" sculpted instruments. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Like Kim, Lower Keys artist August Powers recreates the Keys’ ocean inhabitants. His creations are offbeat yet brilliantly crafted sculptures that blend their characteristics (believe it or not!) with elements of musical instruments.

The result is collection of whimsical hybrids — the “manta-lin,” “sax-eel-phone,” “clambourine,” “trombonefish” and many more. August’s “fishy” instruments can be spotted on the ocean floor each year, displayed by costumed participants in the Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival.

Want to find out more about Keys artists and their work? Just click here for the full picture.

 

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Meet Miles Marker!

The Florida Keys are full of interesting characters — and some of them aren’t even human! Like Ten Speed, the late legendary mutt who, the story goes, drank Kahlua and cream at the oceanfront cocktail bar at Key West’s upscale hangout Louie’s Backyard. And Bonnie the manatee, who’s been been rescued and treated repeatedly by marine mammal experts from Marathon’s Dolphin Research Center after getting tangled in monofilament line.

Miles Marker recently debuted to introduce family activities throughout the Florida Keys.

But not many are as unique as Miles Marker, an animated mile marker who stars in a new video introducing the Keys to kids.

If you’ve ever driven through the Keys, you’re probably aware of the signs that appear periodically on the right shoulder or median strip along the Overseas Highway. These small green signs bear white numbers that begin with number (and mile) 126 just south of Florida City.

Mile markers decrease steadily from there to Key West, ending with the zero marker at the corner of Fleming and Whitehead streets. Keys residents refer to them regularly when giving addresses — so if you’re asking for directions, don’t be surprised to hear that a particular spot is located at (or just before or just after) a certain mile marker number.

Miles Marker, though his name and appearance were inspired by the little signs, is different. Instead of indicating location, he indicates family fun — all along the island chain from Key Largo to Key West.

The video Miles stars in, and the associated Family Fun web section, are great kid-friendly resources for families planning a Keys visit. Both reveal activities that parents and kids of all ages can enjoy together, strengthening their bonds and creating shared memories.

For example, in Key Largo, Miles recommends checking out the world’s third-largest coral reef in a glassbottom boat from John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Or diving or snorkeling that reef in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary to discover colorful fish, marine life and corals.

Now here's a fun-filled family experience involving fish: feeding tarpon from the dock at Robbie's Marina in Islamorada. (Photo by Bob Krist/Florida Keys News Bureau)

In Islamorada, known as the world’s sport fishing capital, he suggests families catch dinner on a fishing trip with a skilled charter captain — and then head for a restaurant that cooks the catch.

What about the Middle Keys? Kids and parents can share an unforgettable learning experience at Marathon’s Turtle Hospital, where sea turtles find help and healing. They can even meet some “patients.”

The Overseas Highway’s mile markers continue through the Big Pine and the Lower Keys, and so does Miles. Families there, he explains, might kayak the shallow-water backcountry or look for tiny Key deer on Big Pine Key.

And what about Key West? Miles recommends options like biking along the island’s narrow lanes and waterfront, stopping at the Butterfly and Nature Conservatory to step into a fascinating world of living butterflies, and visiting America’s Southernmost Point.

“In fact, along the Florida Keys, you’ll find more than 100 miles of family fun,” Miles concludes. “But don’t take my word for it — discover this great vacation spot with YOUR family.”

Want to find out more about family-friendly activities in the island chain? Just click here and start exploring.

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So You Think You’ve Seen the Keys? Think Again!

There’s more to the Florida Keys than meets the eye, yet some people visit once and think they’ve seen it all. Well, they’re wrong! With so many hidden gems and colorful locales, even frequent visitors can enjoy new experiences each time they return to the island chain.

Welcome to Alabama Jack's, the laid-back heart of Card Sound, where you'll find wonderful conch fritters and Key lime pie. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, if you choose the road less traveled (in this case, Card Sound Road, an alternative to the roadway known as the 18-Mile Stretch), you’ll cruise past Alabama Jack’s, Card Sound’s only restaurant and a popular local watering hole. This offbeat establishment offers some of the best conch fritters in the Keys — and a Key lime pie that I guarantee is beyond wonderful.

Continue along Card Sound Road and then connect with U.S. Highway 1 to meander onward. Once in Key Largo, if you’re interested in art and nature, definitely don’t miss Kona Kai Resort, Gallery & Botanic Gardens. This unique boutique property includes not only a beautiful inn, but also one of the most sophisticated art galleries in South Florida, featuring world-renowned artists.

That’s not the property’s only attraction — Kona Kai Resort is surrounded by a lush botanic garden that captivates the senses and immerses you in a tropical paradise. The garden is staffed by an ethnobotanist and tours are offered regularly.

With its fine art gallery and lush botanic garden, Kona Kai Resort is one of the Keys' most appealing hidden gems. (Photo courtesy of Kona Kai Resort)

Moving on to Islamorada, if you arrive on the third Thursday of the month, you can enjoy the Morada Way Arts & Cultural District’s Third Thursday art walk — featuring national and Keys-based artists and galleries along picturesque Morada Way. And whether it’s Thursday or not, you’ll discover a rich blend of artistry, fine crafts and great food.

Heading down the highway, look for the larger-than-life dolphin statue at Dolphin Research Center on Grassy Key. It’s more than just a pleasing sight — one of the first “Flippers” of television fame is buried beneath it. Tour the acclaimed nonprofit marine mammal research and education facility to meet the dolphins currently living there.

Not far away is Marathon’s Turtle Hospital, the world’s first state-licensed veterinary hospital for sea turtles. Chances are you’ll spot one of the facility’s specially designed “turtle ambulances” parked out front, and tours are offered daily so you can learn about the hospital and its “patients.”

Strike Zone passengers travel on a comfortable catamaran during their island excursion and picnic. (Photo courtesy of Strike Zone Charters)

In the Lower Keys at the 524-acre Bahia Honda State Park, a portion of the Old Bahia Honda Bridge provides a dramatic reminder of the historic Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. Stroll along the old bridge, which arches between sea and sky, for a panoramic view of the park and surrounding blue water.

And while you’re in the Lower Keys, dive into the oceanic environment on an island-hopping excursion aboard Strike Zone Charters’ glass-bottom catamaran, departing from Big Pine Key. The tour includes snorkeling, light-tackle fishing, bird watching, occasional dolphin spotting and a private island beachfront fish cookout (trust me — it’s delicious).

Think you won’t find any hidden gems in Key West? Just head for the ruins of the historic, never-used Civil War–era fort called West Martello Tower to encounter one of the most overlooked (and most tranquil) hideaways in the entire Keys island chain.

Discover the Key West Garden Club's tranquil oceanfront oasis at historic West Martello. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Garden Club)

There, set against the wide sweep of the Atlantic Ocean at Atlantic Boulevard and White Street, stands a beautiful garden featuring indigenous plants, rare palm trees and breathtaking vistas. It’s home to the Key West Garden Club, where lush foliage blooms against the weathered brick fort — with wonders including a huge tree grown over a narrow tunnel-like archway you can walk through.

In case you haven’t figured it out by now, the spots listed here are just a few of the treasures to be found in the Florida Keys. From secluded natural areas to little-known historic sites to environmental attractions, you can make new discoveries every time you visit. So why not start planning an exploration today?

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The Saga of Santa Keys

Twas the night before Christmas and all through the Keys
smiling holiday revelers savored the breeze.
But in other locations, nobody was smiling
as they braved freezing temperatures far from the islands.

In the Keys, blending seafaring heritage and holiday spirit means wonderful displays like this lobster trap Christmas tree. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

While Keys visitors partied in warm outdoor bars,
toasting friends with mojitos sipped under the stars,
Christmas spirits had plans for the cold “refugees”
who were physically elsewhere but craving the Keys.

That’s why, out on the beach, there arose such a squawking
of unsettled seagulls in seagull talk talking
that drivers of cars cruising next to the ocean
couldn’t figure out what had caused all the commotion.

The moon on the shining white crescent of beach
made the shoreline of Cuba seem almost in reach
when what to the drivers’ amazement appeared
but a Santa in flip-flops and seaweed-decked beard.

Could this be Santa Keys greeting an underwater denizen? (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Now, this Santa was wise and this Santa was bright
and he sure sympathized with the northerners’ plight.
In his past life, before heading south for the sun,
he too spent the winter months freezing his buns.

So he hijacked a sturdy old boat used for fishin’,
found some Key deer to pull it and started his mission.
Sailing skyward to surf on a tropical breeze,
he steered his ship north bringing gifts from the Keys.

As palm fronds before a wild summer storm fly
(when the shutters are closed and the water is high),
Santa Keys cruised the northern states with his Key deer
spreading visions of warm blue seas and island cheer.

A trio of canine "kids" awaits the arrival of Santa Keys. (Photo by Mary Threlkeld)

At each house where the residents longed for the tropics,
he left small Keys tokens stuffed deep in their stockings.
There were conch shells and flip-flops and Key lime tidbits,
Margarita mix too — and “Buffett’s Greatest Hits.”

There were fishing reels, dive logs and lotions for sun
Conch Republic flags, stickers that read “U.S. 1,”
tiny replicas of Key West’s Southernmost Point
and shrimp sauce from a funky old Keys seafood joint.

When he dropped the last gift at the last snow-topped house,
Santa Keys told his Key deer to steer a course south.
His farewell drifted back on a sweet balmy breeze:
“Merry Christmas to all — now come visit the Keys!”

To watch an underwater video of Santa Keys, click here.

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Florida Keys: Where Girls Get Away

Beyond shopping and sharing rooms, meals and toothpaste, a girls’ getaway in the Florida Keys means low-tech ways to recharge and renew, as you discover abundant “BFF” adventures with your best buds.

Sun and fun, activities and renewal await during girls' getaways in the Florida Keys. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, rejuvenating day spas, massage therapies or alternative-healing treatments can reconnect mind, body and spirit during a pampering spa break and wellness getaway. Spas and treatment centers are located throughout the Keys.

Among them is Marathon’s Tranquility Bay Beach House Resort, where guests can choose from a full range of therapies — including custom herbal scrubs and poultices, facial and body masks and vibrational energy balancing.

Islamorada’s The Spa at Cheeca Lodge offers massage and facial rooms, a wet room with a Vichy shower for scrubs and wraps, poolside cabanas and an oceanside tiki hut for outdoor treatments.

Seeking a beach escape? One of the Florida Keys’ most popular camping and recreation areas, the Lower Keys’ Bahia Honda, features deep near-shore waters for swimming and snorkeling as well as kayaking, camping, picnicking, watersports, a marina and rental cabins.

Deservedly named one of the leading U.S. beaches in several travel studies, Bahia Honda’s pristine sandy expanse is part of a 524-acre state park located on Bahia Honda Key between mile markers 36 and 37.

Looking for pampering in paradise? Keys spas offer treatments, therapies and body care for indulgence-seekers.

The Keys also are a great place for girlfriends to share an ultimate sports adventure. Like the fish they want to learn how to catch, women migrate from all over to land new angling skills — and embark on first-ever fishing trips — at an award-winning “Ladies, Let’s Go Fishing!” weekend seminar.

It’s held each November in Islamorada, the sportfishing capital of the world.

If serenity is your goal, appreciate the oldest practice of self-discovery in glorious sunshine and on tranquil waters that showcase the Keys’ natural beauty. Yoga on the Sea groups leave the dock from Marathon and, after a short cruise, their boat anchors in a beautiful setting for an hour of yoga designed to increase flexibility and strength through chanting, breath-work and seated and standing postures.

Or enjoy a relaxing sunset meditation to still the mind, followed by complimentary wine and hors d’oeuvres. All classes are tailored to individual needs and can be enjoyed by beginners through yoga veterans.

A slice of Key lime pie is one of the sweetest things about the Keys experience -- perfect for BFFs to share. (Photo by Bob Krist, Florida Keys News Bureau)

After your day of activities, indulge with your “bestie” in culinary creativity, sampling fresh-from-the-boat Keys seafood favorites like Key West pink shrimp, savory conch or sweet and tender Florida lobster.

And FYI, it’s almost impossible to visit the Keys without sampling Key lime pie. Usually served nestled in a graham cracker crust and smothered in whipped cream, it’s a sinfully indulgent finale for any meal.

Looking for cocktails and camaraderie? Around the island chain, you’ll find the vibrant rhythms of reggae, salsa and tropical rock spilling from the open doorways of clubs and saloons … the whirr of a blender as a bartender concocts a perfect frozen margarita … the laughter and clink of glasses as new friends at a palm-shaded courtyard bar toast the evening’s promise.

Planning the perfect place to celebrate and get away together? The fun and frolicsome Florida Keys are sure to top the travel wish list for BFFs, mothers and daughters or sisters — so gather the girls and come on down!

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Dive into Amazing Florida Keys Trail of Sunken Ships

If you’re an underwater enthusiast or history lover, you’ll likely be fascinated by a one-of-a-kind trail that parallels the Florida Keys. Called the Florida Keys Shipwreck Trail, it’s a line of shipwreck sites from Key Largo to Key West.

Divers examine the intentionally scuttled 327-foot former U.S. Coast Guard cutter Duane in 120 feet of water off Key Largo. (Photo by Stephen Frink, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Established by the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, it encourages an appreciation and understanding of the Keys’ maritime heritage — and provides intriguing exploration for both snorkelers and divers.

You’ll find centuries-old wrecks, including a Spanish vessel from the 1700s, plus modern cargo and military ships that were intentionally sunk to create artificial reefs. Resting at depths from 14 to well over 100 feet, they’re now home to countless varieties of coral and fish in the sanctuary’s federally protected waters.

What vessels can you explore along the Florida Keys Shipwreck Trail?

KEY LARGO:

Off the coast in 25 feet of water is City of Washington, a two-masted sailing vessel used for passenger transport and cargo trade between New York, Cuba and Mexico. It sank July 10, 1892.

Key Largo's massive Spiegel Grove (bow shown here) draws dive aficionados from all over the world.

Benwood, a merchant marine freighter, lies in 25 to 45 feet of water. It sank in 1942 after colliding with another vessel. Both were traveling without lights as a precaution during World War II blackout conditions.

Duane, in 120 feet of water, was named for Secretary of the Treasury William Duane, who served under Andrew Jackson. It was sunk as an artificial reef Nov. 27, 1987.

ISLAMORADA:

San Pedro, a member of Spain’s 1733 treasure fleet, is the shipwreck trail’s oldest wreck. It’s located off Indian Key in just 18 feet of water. FYI, early shipwreck salvors called wreckers inhabited Indian Key in the early 1800s, finding it a convenient haven midway along the Keys — and a safe harbor in bad weather.

Eagle, a cargo transporter, was sunk as an artificial reef in 1985. It lies off Lower Matecumbe Key in 110 feet of water.

MARATHON:

The three-masted bark Adelaide Baker, also called the Conrad, lies south of Duck Key in 20 feet of water.

Divers can see the Thunderbolt wreck in its entirety during one dive, with visibility up to 100 feet. (Photo courtesy of Hall's Dive Center & International Career Institute)

A wreck believed to be North America lies in 14 feet of water on Delta Shoals east of Sombrero Light. This vessel was lost Nov. 25, 1842, while carrying dry goods and furniture.

Thunderbolt was donated to the Florida Keys Artificial Reef Association by Florida Power and Light Co., which bought it in 1961 to use in researching electrical energy and lightning strikes (thereby inspiring its name). Thunderbolt was intentionally sunk March 6, 1986, in 120 feet of water four miles south of Marathon.

KEY WEST:

Amesbury, built for military combat, is better known as Alexander’s Wreck. The former destroyer escort is broken into two sections that lie 200 yards apart, five miles west of Key West in 25 feet of water. 

ARTIFICIAL REEFS:

The Adolphus Busch, shown here at its sinking, offers divers a remarkable opportunity for exploration off the Lower Keys. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

As well as the vessels of the shipwreck heritage trail, three artificial reefs sunk in the sanctuary in recent years beckon divers and snorkelers from around the world.

Spiegel Grove, a 510-foot Navy landing ship dock, is the third-largest ship ever intentionally sunk to create a new reef for divers. Sunk in May 2002, it’s positioned about six miles off Key Largo in 130 feet of water. Divers recently celebrated the 10th anniversary of its scuttling, and it remains one the Keys’ most intriguing sites.

West of Looe Key in the Lower Keys lies the 210-foot freighter Adolphus Busch Senior. Since Dec. 5, 1998, divers have been exploring this artificial reef approximately five miles southwest of Big Pine Key.

The second-largest vessel intentionally sunk as an artificial reef is the 524-foot General Hoyt S. Vandenberg. The decommissioned Air Force ship once tracked space launches off Florida — and “starred” as a Russian science ship in the 1999 film “Virus.”

Divers explore the superstructure of the Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg artificial reef in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary off Key West. (Photo by Haig Jacobs, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In May 2009, Vandenberg was sunk about seven miles off Key West. The bottom of its hull rests on sand in depths averaging 145 feet, but its superstructure begins about 45 feet below the surface.

Only a few ships in Florida Keys waters carried gold or other rich cargoes. But from Spanish galleons to vessels more recently sunk as artificial reefs, they all offer treasures for today’s divers and snorkelers: prized and colorful marine life and a unique glimpse into history.

 

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Driving the Florida Keys: A Scenic Delight

Scenic drives abound throughout the U.S., and I’ve traveled many of them — through the Great Smoky Mountains and up the California coast among them. But my hands-down favorite is the Florida Keys’ Overseas Highway.

The amazing Overseas Highway stretches over 42 bridges and offers breathtaking vistas of open water. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

With its 42 bridges connecting key to key, the highway offers breathtaking views of both the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico. It’s hard to keep my eyes on the road with beautiful blue water stretching to the horizon on both sides.

Though I’m an active senior, I like to take it easy on longer drives. And the Overseas Highway provides plenty of chances to meander and explore. From Key Largo and its colorful building painted by marine life artist Wyland, to the end of the road in Key West, you’ll find things to see all along the road.

Husband Joe and I made several trips to the Keys before becoming full-time residents, so we visited many different attractions, eateries, and places we wanted to check out.

For example, I’ve enjoyed many meals at Gus’ Grille at the Marriott in Key Largo. Sitting on the second floor overlooking the water, sampling fresh seafood, is a real treat. But then, I could eat my way down the Keys!

The African Queen is the original vessel from director John Huston's classic film by the same name. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Speaking of Key Largo, I well recall watching the 1950s film, “The African Queen,” with Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn. The boat that “starred” in the film is home-ported at the Holiday Inn in Key Largo. As well as seeing her, now that she has undergone extensive renovations you can take a 90-minute cruise on her.

Heading on down the Keys, one of our regular stops was the Rain Barrel in Islamorada. This artisans’ village features sculpture, jewelry, paintings on coral, stained glass and more — much of it by local artists. A stroll through the Rain Barrel always showed us something new and made us marvel at the talents of others (since ours certainly didn’t lie in the art world!).

I also love browsing through the fishing and sports gear, clothes and accessories at Islamorada’s World Wide Sportsman. Here’s another place that offers a perfect view of the Gulf — and the shoreside restaurant is a great place to watch the water and savor casual Keys dishes.

Mandy Rodriguez, the guiding spirit behind Dolphin Research Center, enjoys a swim with a couple of good buddies. (Photo courtesy of DRC)

Interested in joining dolphins in the water? Your drive down the Keys will take you past Grassy Key’s Dolphin Research Center at Mile Marker 59 — and you can plan ahead and book time for a swim with these wonderful creatures of the sea. Even if you can’t swim with them, stop at the center for a tour and learn fascinating information about dolphins, sea lions and other marine creatures.

Incidentally, while you’re in the Grassy Key and Marathon area, consider a stop at Marathon’s Keys Fisheries for a world-class Gulf view and Keys seafood.

Leaving Marathon, you’ll travel across the Seven Mile Bridge — by far the longest of the Keys’ 42 bridges, offering panoramic views of endless blue water and tiny uninhabited islands. The bridge is closed for half a day each year so 1,500 runners can compete in the famed Seven Mile Bridge Run.

In the Lower Keys, take a detour out Key Deer Boulevard on Big Pine Key to the Key Deer Refuge. There, if you’re lucky, you’ll glimpse tiny Key deer indigenous to the area, roaming the refuge that provides a safe environment for them.

A Key deer doe licks her chops after grazing on a plant. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Once past Big Pine Key, begin looking up (passengers only, please!). On a clear day you’ll spot a large white blimp, locally known as “Fat Albert.” Albert is tethered to a base on Cudjoe Key and is part of the NORAD surveillance system. Every time we drove down the Keys, if Fat Albert was up there, we knew all was well with the world.

Further along, on Lower Sugarloaf Key at Mile Market 17, is the site of the Bat Tower. This peculiar structure was built in 1929 by Lower Keys landowner Richter Clyde Perky, who thought he could house bats there to eat marauding mosquitoes. His plan was a failure, but his tower still attracts curious visitors.

Now you’re almost at the end of the road — literally. The Overseas Highway goes through Key West until it reaches Mile Marker 0, in front of the courthouse. And hasn’t it been a beautiful drive?

 

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Discover Wyland’s Keyswide Art Adventure Oct. 12-21

In 2007, crowds of people watched internationally acclaimed marine life artist Wyland create a massive panoramic mural showcasing the Florida Keys’ underwater world. Located at the gateway to the Keys in Key Largo, the 7,500-square-foot mural wrapped around all four sides of a four-story building at mile marker 99.2, in the median of the Keys’ Overseas Highway.

Marine life artist Wyland takes a break after putting finishing touches on his 7,500-square-foot marine life mural in Key Largo. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

From Oct. 12-21, the artist and environmental advocate who lives in the Upper Keys is planning to do something even bigger.

Wyland, who credits the Keys reefs with inspiring much of his world-renowned marine life artistry, will spend 10 days restoring and repainting his three monumental outdoor murals along the island chain.

All three depict marine creatures that inhabit the continental United States’ only living coral barrier reef, which parallels the Keys — and he created all three to increase awareness of that vibrant ecosystem and motivate people to preserve and protect it.

As well as Key Largo, Wyland’s murals can be found midway down the island chain in Marathon (mile marker 50), and in Key West’s Historic Seaport (201 William St.).

Wyland portrays the Keys reef environment on traditional canvases and in large-scale outdoor murals. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Join him to watch and enjoy the restoration project Oct. 12-14 in Key Largo, Oct. 16-17 in Marathon and Oct. 18-21 in Key West.

“We want to inspire the public to see the beauty of the Florida waters and the Florida Keys in particular through public art, and we want to restore those murals so they will continue to inspire,” explained Wyland, who volunteers his time to create his public art murals.

(The paint, by the way, is being donated by the Dunn Edwards Corporation, which deserves many kudos for supporting such a worthy environmental project.)

Watching Wyland paint is fascinating since he works freehand, confidently outlining massive marine creatures with sweeping lines and then layering color and adding detail. Yet observing him at work isn’t the only attraction for visitors to the mural sites.

At each site, you can explore the Wyland Clean Water Mobile Learning Experience (the Wyland Foundation’s interactive science center on wheels), discover the artist’s recent paintings and sculptures in a traveling gallery, and even hear live music from members of the Wyland Blues Planet Band.

Wyland details the eye of a manatee during the creation of his Key Largo mural. (Photo by Gary Firstenberg)

“What I’m planning is to bring the Wyland experience — the art, the conservation, the community — together,” Wyland explained. “We’re inviting everyone to join us to bring the message of conservation, with the goal of inspiring people to be ambassadors for the planet.”

Wyland himself has been an ambassador for the planet throughout his career. He uses his art to encourage people to protect the world’s oceans, waterways and marine life — and notables from scientist Jane Goodall to former U.N. Secretary General Kofi Annan have lauded his environmental commitment.

A member of the International Scuba Diving Hall of Fame, Wyland has spent nearly 30 years diving and observing underwater life in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary.

“It is one of the premiere dive destinations on the planet,” he said, “and the beauty that I see in the Florida Keys is reflected in my paintings, sculptures and murals.”

Wyland's environmental efforts focus on protecting and preserving the world's oceans. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In addition, the artist often gets involved in the community. On Saturday, Oct. 13, he’ll be master of ceremonies at the grand re-opening luau for Snook’s Bayside in Key Largo. Destroyed in a fire and subsequently rebuilt, the local landmark will welcome old and new patrons for an evening of fun, food, and frolic.

A few days later, Oct. 18, Wyland will host a screening of his documentary, “Blues Planet: Sounds,” at Key West’s Tennessee Williams Theatre. He’ll also create sumi brush art, with proceeds from its sale benefiting the local college’s Wyland Marine Science Scholarship Fund.

As if that wasn’t enough, he’s taking his Clean Water Mobile Learning Experience to the Lower Keys’ popular Boondocks Oct. 20-21 for a high-energy gathering featuring live music and art.

Wyland invites everyone who loves the oceans to join him in the Florida Keys to be part of his 10-day art-and-environment experience. Don’t miss it!

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