The marine life that makes its home on the Florida Keys’ living coral reef is widely acclaimed for its diversity — but that undersea life usually doesn’t include an underwater brass band or a snorkel-wearing Elvis Presley.

These strange "undersea creatures" were spotted in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary during a past Underwater Music Festival. (Photos by Bill Keogh/Florida Keys News Bureau)

Unless, of course, it’s the second Saturday in July.

That’s the timeframe for the annual Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival, an engagingly weird event that draws as many as 600 divers and snorkelers to boogie to the beat of music beneath the waves.

Staged by a popular local radio station, the submerged songfest takes place at Looe Key Reef, an area of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary about six miles south of Big Pine Key.

The station’s playlist — ocean- and water-focused ditties ranging from the Beatles’ “Yellow Submarine” to humpback whale songs and the themes from “Gilligan’s Island” and “Titanic” — is broadcast to participating divers and snorkelers (and a whole lot of curious fish) on special speakers suspended beneath boats at the reef.

A few years back, divers and snorkelers at the Underwater Music Festival came across a patriotic parade -- on the ocean floor.

While you might think music would be distorted underwater, it’s actually surprisingly clear. Plus there’s an ethereal “surround sound” feeling that comes from the sound waves’ transmission through the water.

Adding to that ethereal quality are the bizarre reef denizens that can be spotted during the event. Unsuspecting divers and snorkelers at past festivals have encountered an underwater brass band complete with tuba, marchers in an ocean-floor patriotic parade, and the “Divas of the Deep” — a trio of female divers costumed as Ella Fish-gerald, Tuna Turner, and (wait for it) Britney Spearfish.

One memorable year even Elvis himself decided to take the plunge, though he wasn’t wearing blue suede fins at the time. Elvis impersonator Neil Goldberg, dressed in a white caped jumpsuit and flashy gold chains, “performed” underwater on a bright red guitar for a mesmerized crowd of “sea fans.”

“The fish seem to be Elvis fans — they’re ‘all shook up’,” The King quipped after resurfacing.

Elvis impersonator Neil Goldberg performs for "sea fans" at a recent Underwater Music Festival.

For the 2010 festival, scheduled July 10, rumor has it that “Alice in Waterland” and her fictional friends will be on hand. Organizers are staging an offbeat salute to the classic tale “Alice in Wonderland” and the 2010 film it inspired, with underwater appearances by divers costumed as Alice, the “Mad Haddock,” “Cheshire Catfish,” and other take-offs on the story’s memorable characters.

Goofy as it seems, this good time has a serious purpose: preserving the Florida Keys’ unique coral reef ecosystem. The musical broadcast incorporates diver awareness announcements by Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary officials, offering tips on how to enjoy the ocean while minimizing your impact on the reef and marine environment.

So if you’re a music “afishionado,” dive into the doings at the Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival. And even if you can’t come down and take the plunge, you can share the spirit — by “singing out” about reef preservation.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Events, Festivals, Highlights, Local Color, On the Water, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

Recently much attention has been paid to the Florida Keys’ priceless natural resources and the need to preserve and protect them. But you probably aren’t aware that the conservation of these resources has been going on — with significant success — for more than 100 years.

Numerous species of fish, such as this French angelfish, are protected within the boundaries of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. (Photo by Stephen Frink)

This effort is especially important because the Keys are paralleled by the continental United States’ only living coral barrier reef. The reef ecosystem — much like a tropical rainforest — supports an amazing diversity of plants and animals.

To protect part of the reef, John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park was established off the Upper Keys in 1963 as America’s first underwater preserve. Visitors to this remarkable spot can observe wildlife through experiences such as snorkeling, scuba, kayaking and glassbottom boat tours.

Pennekamp is incorporated into the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, widely regarded as a national treasure, which was established in 1990 by the U.S. government.

The sanctuary contains 2,800 square nautical miles of coastal and ocean waters and submerged lands. Surrounding the entire Keys, it also includes vast stretches of Florida Bay, the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean.

Protected refuge areas throughout the Florida Keys provide a nesting, roosting and foraging habitat for egrets like this one.

Within its boundaries you’ll find mangrove islands, historic shipwrecks filled with rare artifacts, tropical fish and other marine life — and the sanctuary’s creation means these ecological, historical, and recreational wonders can be responsibly managed.

The Lower Keys are home to the National Key Deer Refuge, established in 1957 to protect and preserve habitats for wildlife — particularly the tiny, shy Key deer. A subspecies of the Virginia white-tailed deer, Key deer average 60 to 100 pounds fully grown and are about the size of a big dog.

The refuge’s 9,000-plus acres include mangrove forests, freshwater and salt marsh wetlands, pine rockland forests and tropical hardwood hammocks. Besides Key deer, these native habitats sustain 21 other threatened and endangered plant and animal species.

A subspecies of the Virginia white-tailed deer, the shy and engaging Key deer are approximately the size of a large dog.

And the best news? Since the refuge’s creation, its deer population has increased from a near-extinct 50 or fewer to a thriving herd of 600 to 700 — making it a wonderful environmental success story.

The Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge, established in 1938, provides safe nesting and breeding areas for great white herons and other migratory birds and wildlife. White herons are North America’s largest wading bird and, according to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, they’re found only in the Keys and on the South Florida mainland.

Stretching between Key West and Marathon, the refuge features more than 375 square miles of open water and islands in the Gulf of Mexico — reached primarily by kayak, canoe or shallow-draft boat.

A few years ago, the Florida Keys’ first wildlife refuge celebrated its 100th birthday.

In 1908, then-President Theodore Roosevelt created the Key West National Wildlife Refuge to protect and preserve a breeding ground for migratory species. At that time, the hunting of huge numbers of birds for their colorful feathers (considered the must-have decoration for fashionable women’s hats) was decimating migratory bird populations.

For decades, great white herons and other migratory birds have found a haven in the Keys.

“The plume trading industry was so lucrative that in 1903 an ounce of bird feathers was worth $32 — twice the price of gold,” said Anne Morkill, manager of the Florida Keys National Wildlife Refuges Complex.

Lying west of Key West and accessible only by boat, the century-old refuge stretches 10 miles wide and 25 miles long. It provides nesting, roosting and foraging habitat for more than 250 species such as the roseate tern, osprey, bald eagle and magnificent frigate bird.

Thanks to the foresight of the people who created the wildlife haven, and the Keys’ other preserves, the island chain’s priceless natural resources have been protected and nurtured. May that protection continue … for at least the next 100 years.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Highlights, History, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, Voices Main Archive

People are swimming in Florida Keys waters and sunning on the beaches. And fishing, both near-shore and deep-sea. And diving on the living coral reef seven miles offshore, and scarfing down sweet Key West pink shrimp and conch fritters in funky seafood restaurants.

The Florida Keys, a realm of unparalleled natural beauty, remain untouched to date by any oil from the Gulf spill.

In fact, despite mid-May reports of some tar balls found on area beaches, things are pretty much normal in the Florida Keys and Key West.

As a 30-year Key West resident, I can tell you that even finding tar balls isn’t wildly abnormal. The Keys are seafaring islands, and they’re located fairly close to some major commercial shipping lanes. Sometimes, unfortunately, commercial vessels dump bilge water that has oil in it. So sometimes tar balls wash up.

These days, though, the oil spill in the northern Gulf of Mexico has people on red alert — and tar balls that might go unnoticed and unreported at other times are now big news.

Very quickly after the Keys tar balls were found, Coast Guard lab analysis proved they weren’t from the Gulf oil spill. Yet even with that proof, people who don’t know how things happen in the Keys are worried.

Keys waters are prime territory for watersports enthusiasts -- and concerns about the Gulf oil spill have not changed that. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

That’s not a surprise. It’s kind of heartwarming, actually, to see so many people acknowledging the Keys environment as one of America’s national treasures and worrying about its protection and future.

On May 19, experts from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration announced that a small amount of oil — what they called light to very light sheens — had apparently reached the Loop Current, which might carry it near or past the Keys in coming days. If it does, NOAA said, the oil will be significantly weathered by then, and would most likely show up in isolated locations in the form of tar balls.

On the other hand, they reported that it might get caught in a clockwise eddy in the middle of the Gulf, and remain far from the Keys.

No matter how the oil spill situation unfolds, those who love the Keys are certain the islands' magic will endure and flourish. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

No matter how the Gulf oil spill situation unfolds, however, those of us who’ve lived here a long time have a deep belief that the Florida Keys will endure.

If oil from the spill does travel near or past the island chain, we will use every resource we can muster to protect our reef, our mangroves, and our wildlife. We’ll buckle down, but we won’t buckle under — we will live our lives, work together to do whatever has to be done, and emerge with our beloved islands as unique and as wonderful as ever.

And that’s a “reality check” you can take to the bank.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, Voices Main Archive

Want to “visit” the Florida Keys & Key West to check out the weather, water and island events before physically traveling here? Or “revisit” the Keys afterward to spark subtropical memories? Both are easy to do — thanks to nearly 40 webcams positioned at various places from Key Largo to Key West.

Want to check out Keys water conditions before coming down for a fishing or diving excursion? Do it via webcam! (Photo by Bob Krist/Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, you can watch the tall ships and fishing boats ply Key West Harbor from the Ocean Key Resort cam … experience a renowned Lower Keys state park and beach from the Bahia Honda cam … hang out with Key West’s beloved six-toed cats thanks to a “litter” of cams at the Hemingway Home … “feed” the resident tarpon at Robbie’s Marina in Islamorada … watch the orange sun seemingly sink into the ocean from Keys beaches and favorite sunset sites … and much, much more.

But the webcams aren’t the only way to get your “Keys fix” — there’s also Florida Keys TravelVision.

Discover the Key deer's remarkable return from near-extinction, documented in a fascinating video of the week segment.

Located on the home page of the island chain’s official website, Florida Keys TravelVision presents fun and informative “video of the week” features on offbeat attractions, environmental wonders, festivals and special events, and activities ranging from stand-up paddleboarding to making the perfect Key lime pie (which is not as tough as you might think!).

If you miss a “video of the week” segment, don’t despair — after their home-page debut, each one is moved into an easily-accessed video archive, where it can be viewed and re-viewed any time (especially helpful when you’re making that aforementioned Key lime pie).

And if you’d rather “visit” the Keys on YouTube, you’re in luck. Each “video of the week” feature also stars on the Keys’ own YouTube video channel — and they’re also uploaded to other popular video sites, so there’s no telling where you might find them.

The Key West "six-toed cat cam" video offers several reasons why the offbeat island is a "purr-fect" haven for felines and other species.

Segments showcase all regions of the Keys and a variety of attractions ranging from eco-tourism activities to cuisine, festivals, water sports and the Keys’ rich creative community.

Past topics have included a quirky “six-toed cat” fantasy (whether you’re a cat lover or not, you MUST watch this — no excuses), the sinking of the Vandenberg as an artificial reef, experiencing snuba and Dragon Boat racing in Marathon waters, the incredible environmental success story at the Lower Keys’ National Key Deer Refuge, dolphins playing football (not the ones you might expect!), Islamorada artist Stacie Krupa, and a scuba-diving Santa in Key Largo who “submerged” himself in the holiday season.

Of course, the best way to visit the Keys is up close and in person, so you can experience the magical islands’ appeal for yourself. But when that’s not an option, the webcams and Keys TravelVision are truly the next best thing to being here.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, Voices Main Archive

As a 30-year resident of the Florida Keys, who loves the area with a passion that defies description, I’m really disturbed to hear the crazy rumors going around about the Gulf oil spill’s possible impacts on this beloved island chain.

Yes, there’s a possibility that the oil might get caught up in the Loop Current and be carried down Florida’s west coast, through or past the Keys, and up the state’s east coast.

But it’s just that. A possibility. No one really knows for sure, yet there are some out there — including some scientists — who love to speculate and are saying they’re “absolutely certain” we’re going to get the oil.

At the moment, it’s staying well north of the Loop Current, according to National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration scientists who provide information to responders. But that’s not stopping the Chicken-Little-like rumors, both word-of-mouth and floating around the blogosphere, that say the Keys will see oil in a few days.

By the way, don’t know what the Loop Current is? I didn’t know either, until last week. Basically, it’s a clockwise current that carries water from the Yucatan Channel into the Gulf of Mexico, then back down Florida’s west coast and past the Dry Tortugas, finally exiting into the Gulf Stream.

Wherever the oil flows or makes landfall along the Gulf coast, it’s almost certain to have a negative effect on people, wildlife, the environment and the economy. From Louisiana’s sensitive marshlands to the Keys’ magnificent living coral reef, the Gulf of Mexico region is filled with environmental treasures that deserve all the protection they can get.

What they don’t deserve is a massive oil spill. And the people who live in the Gulf region deserve compassion and sensitivity at this critical time — not sensationalistic chatter that increases fear about the path or potential impacts of the spill.

The Florida Keys tourism council is leading an effort to make sure that, whether the oil gets caught up in the Loop Current or not, its path and effects are reported honestly and accurately. On the Keys’ official tourism website, you’ll find the latest news about the spill, trajectory maps and 72-hour forecasts, links to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration site and other resources, and a Q & A that offers down-to-earth insights into the situation. The information is updated at least once daily.

In addition, for live, real-time views of the Keys’ clear waters and unspoiled shorelines, check out the island chain’s long-established webcams. Throughout the Keys, more than 40 cams are broadcasting images from area beaches, waterfront bars and restaurants, underwater sites and even Mallory Square, home of Key West’s nightly Sunset Celebration overlooking the harbor.

Of course private and governmental groups are working 24/7 to contain the oil. So keep your fingers crossed that the spill’s effects — wherever they’re felt, whether in the Keys or elsewhere in the beautiful Gulf region — will be as minimal and short-lived as possible.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon

For 30-some years Bill Becker, news director at Lower Keys–based U.S. 1 Radio 104.1 FM, has provided a soothing, authoritative presence that appeals to Florida Keys listeners. Surprisingly, though his smooth voice and comfortable manner make him a broadcasting natural, working in radio was not his life’s goal.

Broadcaster and family man Bill Becker delights in spending time with his wife Bernadette and their granddaughter Bella.

A native of New York, Bill earned bachelor’s and master’s degrees in marine biology. Though he wrote for his high school newspaper, he had no radio experience until he came to the Florida Keys and his love of science led him into broadcasting.

After graduating in 1971, he accepted a job offer from the Lower Keys’ Newfound Harbor Marine Institute at Seacamp.

“It was my sole job offer in 1971,” Bill admitted, “so I drove down with all my belongings in a 1964 Chevy and I worked there for 10 years.”

He taught marine biology to kids and, through outreach programs, became involved in local organizations. He even served as president of the Lower Keys Chamber of Commerce.

That’s when he caught the attention of David Freeman, a local insurance agent with a broadcasting background who had started a small Key West station. David asked Bill to do 15-minute on-air segments about his work at Seacamp.

“I would record my segment on cassette with a hand-held tape recorder and mail it to David, who would play it every Wednesday at 12:15 p.m.,” said Bill. “It could barely be heard in Big Pine, but still it gave me the bug for radio — I felt I was creating something positive that people appreciated.”

As passionate about ocean waves as he is about airwaves, Bill takes a break for a bit of beach-combing in the Marquesas Keys.

When U.S. 1 Radio started up in 1980, Bill went to the station and offered to do local news. That was the beginning of his career there — a career that has lasted to this day and made him the most recognized voice in the Keys.

Since that beginning, U.S. 1 has been a primary local news source for Keys residents and visitors. In fact, when Hurricane Georges affected the Lower Keys in 1998, Bill and his fellow staffers stayed on the air throughout the storm — even when a neighbor of Bill’s called to report that half the roof of the Becker house was gone.

Powered by the station’s sturdy generator, nicknamed Zippy, the intrepid team provided information and comfort to listeners during and after Georges. In 1999, U.S. 1 received a prestigious Edward R. Murrow Award from the Radio Television Digital News Association for their outstanding coverage.

“Attending the black-tie event to receive the award, and meeting the giants of broadcast news like Walter Cronkite, was a very humbling experience,” recalled Bill.

In addition to being a respected radio newscaster, Bill is a pretty good on the washtub bass.

His work has involved him in other historic moments, too. For example, he simulcast live from Key West’s Mallory Square in 1982 when the Florida Keys seceded from the Union and formed the independent Conch Republic.

In addition, Bill co-founded of one of the Lower Keys’ signature events: the annual Underwater Music Festival that spotlights coral reef preservation. Each July, the quirky underwater broadcast draws hundreds of diving and snorkeling enthusiasts and national attention.

Today, Bill broadcasts the news and hosts U.S. 1’s 90-minute “Morning Magazine” each weekday morning, showcasing local issues and events. He’s quick to praise the station’s evening newsman, Ezra Marcus, calling him “a real television and radio pro.”

After nearly 40 years in the island chain, Bill appreciates his tranquil existence on Sugarloaf Key with his wife Bernadette — and two daughters and a granddaughter close by.

“I live on a wonderful wooded acre with a pool, a pond and a great garden that I get to tend to year-round,” he said. “I have a great life.”

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Highlights, Local Color, Profiles, Voices Main Archive

The Lower Florida Keys, located between Marathon and Key West, are a low-key paradise for people seeking a laid-back getaway — a place where wildlife is protected, and nightlife means watching the sun set and the moon rise over the water.

Deer Run takes its name from the tiny, shy Key deer that wander its tranquil grounds. (All photos courtesy of Deer Run)

One of the undisputed highlights of this tranquil region is Deer Run Bed and Breakfast.

Deer Run lies down a winding road on Big Pine Key, nestled on a secluded, tree-shaded Atlantic Ocean beach close to two wildlife preserves. And when you arrive, you’ll find an environmental focus that extends far beyond the property’s location: virtually every aspect of the small Caribbean-style inn reflects its innkeepers’ earth-friendly mindset.

For example, breakfast means vegetarian feasts prepared by Jennifer DeMaria, who owns Deer Run with her fiancé Harry Appel. You’ll savor home-baked breads and fruits, predominantly organic and sourced locally — plus organic and fair-trade coffee and tea that are an absolute delight.

Each morning, Jen dreams up vegetarian feasts to delight hungry guests. Most of the food she serves is organic and locally sourced.

In addition, all the guestrooms feature organic cotton towels, and cruelty-free eco-friendly products are used throughout the inn. Lighting at the property is 90-percent solar powered.

Deer Run’s grounds feature surprising nooks, shady areas and a hammock for lounging. Jen and Harry have an organic garden and water for irrigation is collected in rain barrels. They even use a biodiesel tractor for maintaining Deer Run’s Atlantic-front beach that’s surrounded by shade trees and plants.

The beach, by the way, is a small treasure — and guests aren’t alone in favoring the sandy spot. It’s not unusual to see tiny Key deer, a rare species that’s protected and cherished in the Lower Keys, wandering unconcernedly along the beach and shoreline.

As well as putting their eco-friendly philosophy into practice at their inn, Jen and Harry encourage guests to enjoy low-impact nature-oriented activities throughout the Lower Keys.

Kayaking from the secluded Atlantic-front beach is a favorite "green" pastime -- and allows exploration of the Lower Keys' fascinating and diverse environment.

They might suggest you check out the beautiful beach and indigenous plantings at Bahia Honda State Park, explore the nearby National Key Deer Refuge, try snorkeling or diving Looe Key Reef in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, or kayak in the shallow mangrove areas rich in bird life.

Actually, you don’t even have to leave the property to try your kayaking skills. To promote the use of people-powered instead of engine-powered water craft, Jen and Harry keep kayaks on hand for their guests’ use — plus an intriguing aqua bike.

As you might expect, the protected hideaway is a mecca for environmentally savvy travelers. But they’re not the only ones taking notice of Deer Run.

In late 2007, the eco-friendly haven became the Lower Florida Keys’ first certified member of the Florida Green Lodging Program, created to recognize the state’s environmentally conscious accommodations.

Rainwater is collected to irrigate the trees and plants that surround the eco-friendly hideaway.

In 2009, it was named to the “Islands Magazine” Blue List that celebrates leaders and innovators in sustainable travel. Of the 24 worldwide honorees on the list, Deer Run was the only one in the continental United States.

Most recently, Jen and Harry’s piece of paradise earned a prestigious Green Living Award from the Keys’ Green Living & Energy Education organization. Winners are chosen for their efforts in conserving natural resources, reducing waste and lessening environmental impact.

“When we came here, we expected to work very hard, deliver something different than people expect — better than people even know they want or need — and do it while having a sense of gratitude and respect for our natural surroundings and community,” said Jen.

Luckily for the guests who discover Deer Run, the engaging pair has succeeded … on all counts.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Highlights, Local Color, Voices Main Archive

Influenced by her parents’ love of the outdoors and her mother’s creative background, Valerie Fecher picked up a camera and began taking photographs at an early age.

"Sunrise in Big Pine" showcases both Valerie Fecher's talent and passion for the natural world. (Photos provided by Valerie Fecher)

Her inspiration to become a shutterbug came from her mother, a painter, who also passed her artistic drive down to Valerie’s sisters. One became a sculptor and the other a craftsperson.

The natural world also has exerted an ongoing influence on Valerie, dating from a 1967 family camping trip in Alaska. These days, she goes regularly to the Everglades with her lobsterman father, where they ride around on their airboat capturing images that she uses in her shows. On one of their treks, she was lucky enough to spot and photograph a rarely seen Florida panther.

Valerie grew up in Miami but, by the time she turned 14, her parents had chosen to move farther south.

Valerie is influenced by her family's creative heritage and love of the outdoors.

“In 1971, my parents decided to leave the rat race behind and move me and my two sisters down to the Keys,” said Valerie, who lived on Big Pine Key and attended Marathon High School. “Big Pine was a small rural area back then and they liked that.”

After graduating from high school, she attended Florida Keys Community College, where she honed her darkroom skills in the medium of black-and-white photography. She later received a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree in photography from Miami’s Florida International University.

Valerie eventually built a darkroom in her home that she used to develop her photos until it seemed the right time to embrace digital photography.

Nature and the water play a large role in her work, so she often takes off in a kayak right from her property on Big Pine to seek compelling images.

Valerie's "Clouds Out Back" contrasts the stillness of the water with the light-drenched energy of the billowy clouds.

While photographing outdoor subjects is her primary passion, portrait photography is Valerie’s second love. She even enjoys shooting portraits of local kids dressed up for Halloween.

Today, she’s a member of Big Pine’s Artists in Paradise Gallery, where her mother is a founding member, and happily displays her work in the gallery’s shows.

“I’ve been with them about a decade, and the photography I show is mostly images from the Everglades and the Keys,” Valerie said. “The gallery has grown tremendously over the years from its original 13 members.”

Her husband, a fishing guide, shares her love of the outdoors. Most of their vacations are very active, generally including kayaking or snorkeling.

It’s hardly surprising that Valerie’s life and photos are inextricably entwined. Each reflects her passion for the beauty of the natural world she finds in the Florida Keys — the island chain that is both her home and her inspiration.

Topics: Arts, Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Local Color, Profiles, Voices Main Archive

For award-winning writer Brad Bertelli, life is about noticing the little things — especially when he’s hovering over coral heads offshore. His book, “Snorkeling Florida: 50 Excellent Sites,” reveals many of his favorites, and the reefs of the Florida Keys (renowned as North America’s most accessible dive and snorkel destination) best represent what the water has to offer.

"Snorkeling Florida" spotlights author and underwater aficionado Brad Bertelli's favorite Florida Keys snorkeling spots.

Brad’s favorite snorkeling sites include coral reefs, seagrass beds and shipwrecks. Luckily for aquatic enthusiasts, the Keys provide easy offshore access to each underwater environment. Water depths are typically shallow, and water temperatures range from the 70s in winter months to the 80s in summer — practically guaranteeing a safe and enjoyable trip.

If you’re a snorkeler, kicking from shore just beyond the seagrass beds will bring you to structures such as coral heads, rocks or outcroppings where you can see a variety of fish.

“Fish look for these ’condos‘ to live and dart in and out of,” Brad said.

Sightings increase, he advised, when the tide is changing or at low tide, and when there’s low wind — usually in the early morning hours before afternoon clouds build up and create surface chop.

Snorkeling sites in the Keys are shallow, allowing for maximum light (and color) exposure along the reef line. (Photo by Pat Taylor)

Keeping a slow pace is important as well. Snorkeling is not a race, so take your time to examine the reef, soaking it all in. The ease of snorkeling is what makes it so appealing for people of all ages and experience levels.

Key Largo is brimming with fine snorkeling spots — many of them in or near John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. They include the north end of Molasses Reef, a beautiful and shallow strip of reef lush with schooling blue striped grunts and Florida favorites like sergeant majors, horse-eyed jacks and Bermuda chubs.

Just off Founders Park on Plantation Key is a group of coral heads between three and four feet tall. For a family with little kids, cruising down the jetty is great for spotting nurse sharks, rays, starfish and seahorses.

Off Islamorada’s Cheeca Lodge, Brad often hovers over “Cheeca Rocks,” a shallow, healthy cluster of robustly populated coral heads that aren’t heavily dived.

Shown here above water, Brad Bertelli offers informative insights on the Keys' underwater world based on his first-hand experience.

Indian Key, accessible by boat or a 25-minute paddle by kayak, is home to small critters like banded shrimp, damselfish and juvenile angelfish that crowd around lime-colored brain coral heads.

In the Lower Keys, though Looe Key is legendary for its glorious finger reef seascape, Brad said his all-time favorite shore snorkel is the untouched and uncrowded beauty at Bahia Honda State Park. In shoreside waters only four feet deep, you can spot “babies” from a variety of species including starfish and conch.

“What is so remarkable about snorkeling the Keys is how much you can see offshore without having to be on a boat,” stated Brad. “You can wade in off the beach and it’s truly breathtaking.”

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Local Color, Marathon, On the Water, Voices Main Archive

Before Chris Robinson became a Lower Keys fishing guide, he co-owned the All-Breeds Hot Dog Pound, tended bar for some 20 years at Key West’s landmark Chart Room and Louie’s Backyard, and shared adventures with Jimmy Buffett and other notables.

As a young Key West bartender in the 1970s and early '80s, Chris met writers, actors and musicians fleeing the “real world.” (Photos courtesy of Chris Robinson)

In fact, when Chris arrived in Key West in 1972, the 24-year-old from St. Augustine, Fla., found himself in a renegade seaport town. Politicos ran the government largely from the Chart Room Bar (where Chris captured a coveted bartending job), hobbyist pot smugglers were admired as romantic outlaws, and local treasure hunters drank rum with Pulitzer Prize–winning escapees from the literary mainstream.

Tall and spare, with long hair and a luxuriant moustache, Chris displays a storyteller’s wit, easygoing attitude and lively enjoyment of the absurd. During his early Key West years, those traits served him well in an offbeat venture begun with buddy Tommy Hicks.

“We opened the world-famous All-Breeds Hot Dog Pound on Greene Street,” said Chris. “Our motto was We Relish Your Buns.”

The business didn’t last long, but old-time Key Westers still wax nostalgic about the “pound’s” juicy hot dogs nestled in soft Cuban rolls.

At that time, Key West’s ramshackle charm and end-of-the-road atmosphere made it a magnet for writers, actors and musicians fleeing the “real world.” Among them were novelist and poet Jim Harrison, “Ninety-two in the Shade” author Tom McGuane and struggling singer/songwriter Jimmy Buffett, who later memorialized the Key West lifestyle in song and earned enduring fame.

Chris (at left holding a freshly-caught permit) eventually became a Keys fishing guide.

“He was not a star then,” said Chris. “He used to sit with his little guitar and amp and play in the Chart Room.”

The two became friends when Buffett moved into the oceanfront apartment above Chris’s beside a bar and restaurant named Louie’s Backyard.

By 1986, Chris was tending bar at the Afterdeck at Louie’s, an open-air cocktail deck on the edge of the Atlantic, whose clientele combined local fishermen, upscale tourists and visiting celebrities. It was a position he would hold for 18 years.

Yet while he enjoyed the Keys’ partying pursuits, Chris also was drawn to life on the water. An angler since his childhood, he bought a boat shortly after arriving in Key West and learned flats fishing tips from Tom McGuane.

In action on the Florida Keys flats, Chris guides anglers to tarpon, bonefish, permit, barracuda and the occasional shark.

Eventually he got his captain’s license and began guiding. In 2004, he retired from Louie’s Backyard and began chartering full time on his 18-foot Action Craft, fishing the flats for tarpon, bonefish, permit, barracuda and the occasional shark. He called his business Big Kahuna Charters.

Unlike some of his contemporaries, Chris enjoys guiding novice anglers as much as he does seasoned pros.

Poling through the shallows, he also shares his love of the diverse and vibrant Keys environment with his clients — pointing out sea turtles, spotted eagle rays, stingrays and manatees.

“I tell people it’s an eco-tour with a chance to catch a fish,” said Chris.

It might be a long road from the bartending high life to the natural realm of the flats, but Chris Robinson has traveled it with grace — and few regrets.

Some years back, while guiding a Chicago office worker on a February fishing escape, he realized just how lucky he was.

“It was about 80 degrees, the water had three different colors and the sky was that big, high-pressure clear deep blue,” said Chris, “and he looks at me and he goes, ‘Nice office’.”

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