Let’s imagine you’ve got only two or three days to explore the entire Florida Keys (which would clearly be a planning mistake, since the island chain’s five diverse regions should be explored at a leisurely pace).

Drive the unique Florida Keys Overseas Highway and stop at "Can't Miss" spots along the way. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

But in today’s crazy-busy world, some people can only escape their “real world” responsibilities for a few short days.

If that’s your situation, “The Keys Can’t-Miss List” here will help you maximize enjoyment in minimal time.

Where to start? On the northernmost island of Key Largo, renowned for diving, snorkeling and backcountry touring.

From there, follow the Florida Keys Overseas Highway all the way to Key West, driving at an easy pace and stopping along the way.

Can’t Miss #1: Take a snorkeling or scuba excursion, and see stunning coral formations and brilliant tropical fish, in Key Largo’s John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park —  America’s first underwater preserve and predecessor to the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary.

Can’t Miss #2: Head for Islamorada, renowned as the Sportfishing Capital of the World. Join one of Islamorada’s charter captains or guides for world-class fishing in offshore, reef or shallow backcountry waters. The Keys lay claim to more saltwater world fishing records than any other angling destination on the planet.

A Turtle Hospital staffer examines a loggerhead turtle "patient." (Photo courtesy of The Turtle Hospital)

Can’t Miss #3: After catching your fish (maybe yellowtail snapper, tuna or dolphin fish, also called mahi-mahi), turn it into a meal. Bring it to one of the Keys restaurants that “cook the catch.” There’s nothing like savoring a perfectly prepared and seasoned fish, and knowing you reeled it in.

Can’t Miss #4: Meandering through Marathon, meet rescued sea turtles at the world’s only licensed veterinary hospital specializing in sea turtles (yes, really!). A dedicated team at The Turtle Hospital rescues, rehabilitates, and nurtures sick and injured turtles — and whenever possible, releases them back into the ocean realm. Don’t miss taking a guided behind-the-scenes tour of this one-of-a-kind facility.

Can’t Miss #5: Now drive down the Overseas Highway to Big Pine Key where, if you’re lucky, you can spot (and photograph) a real-life “Bambi.” Tiny, shy Key deer are an endangered species that live only in the Lower Keys. They’re about the size of large dogs and can be found grazing around Big Pine — especially in the early morning hours and at dusk. Spotting them isn’t always easy, but it’s a real treat when you do.

Take a leisurely bike ride to view exuberant blossoms and historic Key West homes.

Can’t Miss #6: Once you reach Key West, you can do anything from taking an art stroll to visiting a Hemingway hangout. But one of the very best activities is wonderfully simple: rent a bicycle and pedal around historic Old Town past colorful Victorian homes, white picket fences and luxuriant foliage. Biking down the narrow lanes, you can smell exotic flowers and peek into hidden gardens, marvel at architectural beauty and exchange smiles with people you pass.   

As you’ll discover on your Florida Keys journey, the islands boast a lively seafaring history, flourishing creative community, balmy subtropical climate, and natural wonders that include continental America’s only living coral barrier reef.

But the Keys’ most important asset is intangible: a laidback vibe that seems worlds away from everyday cares. Soak up that vibe whether you have two days or two weeks to spend in the magical island chain — and you’ll find yourself refreshed, renewed, and ready for more.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, Voices Main Archive

Key West Pride events have wound down after five days packed with parties, sailing, and parades. In many of your communities, Pride festivals are just beginning — so keep your eyes open for eight-color rainbow flags in your Pride parade.

Blog author Steve Smith celebrates Key West Pride during the island city's annual parade.

If you spot one, chances are the flag you see was part of Key West’s 1.25-mile sea-to-sea flag, unfurled on Duval Street from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean 10 years ago this month. Sections of the famed flag will be carried in parades in Denver, Columbus, Cincinnati, Cleveland and New York.

Living on a tiny two-mile by four-mile island, we’re never lacking for another unique event. This weekend, for example, we host the Key West Africana Festival, giving visitors an opportunity to discover the Afro-Caribbean heritage of America’s southernmost island city. There are workshops on wellness and healthy living, film screenings, tours of meaningful African and Cuban sites and museums, and presentations by award-winning authors, media commentators and our state Senator Dwight Bullard.

Then, June 22, be sure to bring out your finest fairy and tropical attire and gather under the stars for the seventh annual Midsummer’s Night Dream & Spectacle. This magical evening unfolds in, and benefits, the Key West Tropical Forest and Botanical Garden. Bring lots of fairy dust, glitter, wings and halos … and prepare for an unforgettable experience. 

Blossoms, glitter and fairy dust are the recommended accessories for the lavish and lovely Midsummer's Night Dream. (Photo by Carol Tedesco)

“Midsummer’s Night celebrates the summer solstice,” says event creator Michael Shields. “It’s a time when the veil between this world and the next is thin, and powerful forces are abroad. On Midsummer’s, legends hold that one can gain the powers of a bard — or on the downside, end up utterly mad, demented, or whisked away by spirit faeries. Romances flourish, affairs are begun, mystery and mischief abound. It all begins with a dream.”

Enjoy the creations of local musicians, poets, painters and sculptors; marvel at aerial artistry, fire dancing, theatrical antics and storytellers; and vie for the titles of festival King and Queen. Where else can you join fairies, stars, and starlets on a tropical island under the full moon while sipping tropical beverages and tasting local foods? No glitter is too bright, no wings too large (just be careful when flying through the forest!).

Though the Keys have designated themselves the independent Conch Republic, we do acknowledge July 4 as Independence Day for those who live in the “neighboring” United States. This year, my friend and noted writer David Sloan adds to the holiday festivities by staging the first Key Lime Festival. 

Offbeat author David Sloan, who penned "The Ultimate Key Lime Pie Cookbook" and created the Key Lime Festival, decorates a pie. (Photo by Rob O'Neal)

David penned “The Ultimate Key Lime Pie Cookbook,” celebrating the popularity of the tart, creamy dessert identified with the Florida Keys. Important note: if you have ever been served green key lime pie, you were cheated. Our tasty Key lime pie is yellow and often nestled on crisp graham cracker crumbs toasted in real butter. Some serve it with chopped nuts in the crust, although my favorite sits atop crushed chocolate wafers, drenched in butter and browned just before the sweet yellow curd is ladled and topped with unsweetened whipped cream. I’m getting carried away …

Join David and his team July 4 at the Key Lime Piestravaganza in front of Key West’s Old City Hall as they attempt to make the world’s largest Key lime pie — expected to be bigger than 15 feet in diameter. You can even savor a slice of the historic pie for one buck, which benefits the Key West Firehouse Museum. It doesn’t get much better than this!

I’ll tell you more about our July 4 celebrations next time. Right now, I need to find a slice of tangy Key lime pie and get ready for tonight’s NBA game.  

Topics: Arts, Events, Festivals, Food, History, Key West, LGBT, Local Color

In the 1970s and early 80s, Key West was an end-of-the-world seaport outpost — much like a Wild West town, but with palm trees and an ocean. Unsurprisingly, its residents were the outlaw kind: independent, irreverent, and possessed of a fierce integrity. The kind, in other words, that fit right into such an environment.

Vic Latham, co-founder of Key West's legendary Full Moon Saloon, is shown here in 1973 during the island's infamous renegade era. (Photo courtesy of the Latham Family)

Much has been written about Key West in those days — days when one island mayor water-skied to Cuba just to prove he could do it, when many local government employees were under indictment or investigation for one thing or another, when smuggling pot was considered more of a mom-and-pop hobby than a crime, and when the island seceded from the Union and became the Conch Republic to protest an unjust government roadblock.

It was also a time of enormous creative and experiential promise. Every evening as the sun went down, the sense of excitement and expectation was strong enough to be nearly visible. You just knew something outrageous was about to happen around the next corner, and you simply had to be there to watch it unfold.

It was into that offbeat atmosphere that the Full Moon Saloon was born in the spring of 1977.

Its founders and guiding spirits were Vic Latham and Sid Snelgrove, a pair of big men with lived-in faces who took turns playing straight man for each other. Both had drawling Carolina voices that seemed made to deliver the wry quip or sly anecdote; both were seasoned Key Westers and bartending pros when they opened the Moon.

"Roy's Dead Now," painted by Key West artist Martin Laessig, hung in a place of honor at the Full Moon.

Very quickly, it became the hideout and hangout of seemingly half the Key West population. Entertainers, bartenders and restaurant servers, fishermen, local political notables and people in less regular professions adopted it as their home away from home — and so did some surprising literary stars.

Another legendary insiders’ hangout during the hard-living 70s and 80s was the Chart Room, a hole-in-the-wall drinking emporium at Key West’s Pier House Resort.

The Chart Room has defied coherent description for decades. With just a handful of barstools, it was a haven for high-rollers and city officials, celebrities seeking a good cocktail, and Key West’s savviest locals. In fact, whoever compared the Chart Room to the famed fictional watering hole in the “Star Wars” films wasn’t far wrong.

Recently Key West lost a man who, in many ways, embodied the spirit of the renegade era. Vic Latham, co-founder of the legendary Moon, passed away on Easter Sunday in Lockport, Illinois, his home after he left the island.

Passionate about good music and good books, Vic socialized with musicians and authors who helped shape Key West’s creative renaissance of the 1970s and early 80s — among them Jimmy Buffett, Phil Caputo, Jim Harrison, Hunter Thompson, Thomas Sanchez and Tom Corcoran. For all of his Key West cohorts, who survived the unruly and unforgettable “Full Moon era,” the world won’t be quite the same without him. 

This classic Jimmy Buffett album cover captures the Key West waterfront in the 1970s.

Today, the Chart Room still stands — and offers a particularly warm welcome to those who know what it stands FOR. But the Moon is gone, and some might think Key West is a long way from the outlaw era of the 70s and 80s.

However, that’s not really true. In lively Duval Street watering holes, cocktails are served by bartenders who learned their craft at the Moon. Some of today’s leading citizens are yesterday’s irreverent free-thinkers, and their eyes still gleam if someone mentions “the old days.”

Beneath Key West’s modern-day facade, a renegade heart still beats — and that’s one of the major reasons for the island’s enduring appeal. The essence of the era that spawned the Full Moon Saloon, and the early Chart Room, remains alive in everyone who remembers and honors it.

Topics: Highlights, History, Key West, Local Color, Voices Main Archive

The Florida Keys & Key West are internationally renowned as a laidback subtropical getaway, yet they’re also rich in fascinating history. Since 2013 marks the 500th anniversary of Juan Ponce de Leon setting foot on Florida’s east coast, it’s a perfect time to discover them.

Journey into history down one of the old roads on Indian Key. (Photo courtesy of Florida State Parks)

Of course, you can explore elements of the Keys’ natural and cultural history at attractions and sites throughout the islands — but a trio of intriguing highlights is chronicled here.

INDIAN KEY

Located less than a mile from Lower Matecumbe Key, Indian Key is just 11 acres in size. But it was the site of one of the Keys’ most dramatic (and chilling) incidents.

In the early 19th century, the tiny island boasted a thriving shipwreck salvage (also called wrecking) community. It had the largest population between St. Augustine and Key West — and in 1836, it was declared the first county seat of Dade County (FYI, the Keys now lie in Monroe County and Dade County’s focal point is Miami).

Just four years later, in 1840 during what was called the Second Seminole War, an Indian Key wrecking captain named Jacob Housman offered to remove the Seminoles from the area.

That proved to be a fatal mistake. A group of them paddled to the island, where they killed settlers and set structures ablaze in a horrific inferno. 

The Museum of Natural History at Crane Point spotlights the remarkable early history of the Florida Keys. (Photo courtesy of Crane Point)

Indian Key never regained its population or its prominence. In 1971 it was purchased by the Florida Park Service, and the following year became a National Historic Site.

Today Indian Key Historic State Park, located offshore at mile marker 78.5, is accessible only by boat. Rent a boat or kayak from Robbie’s Marina in Islamorada, and spend a few hours at the park swimming, sunning, and hiking the acres where the thriving community once stood.

CRANE POINT

The 63.5-acre Crane Point is one of the Keys’ most sensitive environmental and archaeological sites — and fortunately, it has been preserved by the Florida Keys Land and Sea Trust as a nature sanctuary and education center.

A one-of-a-kind living record of Keys history, the property at MM 50.5 in Marathon contains evidence of prehistoric Indian artifacts. It was once the site of a Bahamian village, and artifacts dating from the 19th century have been found there as well.

The flora and fauna of the Keys form the basis of many Crane Point exhibits. (Photo courtesy of Crane Point)

But that’s only the beginning. Crane Point is home to a wide range of tropical vegetation, including 10 endangered plant and animal species. It also features the Museum of Natural History, the Marathon Wild Bird Center and the historic Adderley House.

Visiting the fascinating place, you’ll discover more than 10 major exhibits covering the geography, plant and animal life of the Keys — and the 5,000-year history of man’s habitation in the area. 

SAN CARLOS INSTITUTE

Though it’s more than 150 miles from Miami, Key West lies just 90 miles from Cuba — and the island city’s culture reflects that geographic closeness. In fact, an important Cuban heritage center can be found at 516 Duval St. in the heart of Key West’s historic district.

The San Carlos Institute was established in 1871 to preserve Cuban culture and promote the freedom of Cuba, which at the time was ruled by Spain. In 1892, famed Cuban revolutionary leader José Martí launched his drive for Cuba’s independence in a pivotal speech from the balcony of the San Carlos.

The majestic San Carlos is a leading Cuban heritage site. (Photo courtesy of the San Carlos Institute)

Marti loved the San Carlos so much that he called it “La Casa Cuba.” The landmark institute now serves as a museum, library, art gallery, theater and school (and hosts many of Key West’s leading special events each year).

Its museum exhibits focus on Cuba’s history and the history of the Cuban-American community in Florida — including an inspiring collection of photographs and documents relating to José Martí. 

Want to know more about Florida Keys history and unique sites to visit? Click here to begin your exploration.

Topics: Environment, History, Islamorada, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, Voices Main Archive

According to the Library of Congress, LGBT Pride Month is celebrated each year in June to commemorate the landmark Stonewall riots that took place in 1969 in Manhattan. Originally slated for the last Sunday in June, the event once called Gay Pride Day has evolved into a month-long happening in many cities across the world. Picnics, parties, workshops, concerts, and parades now define Pride celebrations.

On June 15, 2003, Gilbert Baker's 1.25-mile-long rainbow flag was unfurled down Duval Street from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean in a sea-to-sea proclamation of pride and diversity. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Key West Pride 2013 starts Wednesday, June 5. We began our Pride festivities in 1982 with a small local event — and over the years they have become a major citywide celebration of pride, inclusion, and diversity. 

Living on a two-mile by four-mile island, we are keenly aware of the contributions made by our LGBT friends and the important role we have played in growing our vibrant community. The City of Key West had the first openly gay mayor in the nation, Richard Heyman. Today, the gay presence is a vital component of Key West’s charming, welcoming, melting-pot atmosphere.

Openly and without controversy, gay men and women are elected to top-ranking political positions, hold civic office and stand at the top of their professions. Gay-owned and gay-friendly businesses abound and rainbow flags fly proudly from shops, guesthouses and enterprises of all sorts.

In October 2000, the Key West City Commission unanimously adopted One Human Family as the city’s official philosophy. The Monroe County Commission quickly followed suit, embracing the motto for the entire Florida Keys. (Whenever you’re on the island, be sure to pick up a One Human Family sticker for your vehicle, and an extra one or two for your friends.)

In 2000, Key West artist J.T. Thompson created the One Human Family initiative. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The Key West Business Guild took over hosting Key West Pride several years ago. Uniting its more than 400 member businesses in this annual gala is no easy task — but there’s a great balance of events throughout our Pride celebration, from the kickoff membership mixer to the highlight parade and closing party.

When I’m asked what Pride is like in Key West, I’m never at a loss to describe the events. Each day brings kayaking adventures through the backcountry, sailing and snorkeling excursions, live theatre, dinners, sunset sailing, pool parties and late-night soirees — ending with a parade that traverses the island from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean. And all this takes place in a sub-tropical paradise surrounded by emerald and lapis seas.

This year we celebrate the 10th anniversary of the debut of Key West’s 1.25-mile “sea-to-sea” rainbow flag, and the 35th anniversary of the creation of the original rainbow flag by Gilbert Baker.

Sections of Key West's "sea-to-sea" rainbow flag have been displayed in cities around the world -- including Buffalo, shown here.

Ten years ago, to mark the original flag’s 25th anniversary, Baker and a volunteer team constructed the gigantic Key West flag on the island. During Pride 2003, approximately 2,000 volunteers unfurled it along the entire length of the island’s Duval Street, from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean, in a sea-to-sea showing of openness and pride.

Sections of this famous flag have been displayed worldwide. In fact, this month you can see sections of it on our island and in Buffalo, Columbus, Chicago, Cincinnati, Houston, New York, San Francisco, Dallas and Fairbanks, Alaska. We are thrilled to share sections of our flag.

During Pride 2013, stop by the Key West Business Guild’s booth from 10 a.m. until 7 p.m. June 8, when the Pride Street Fair takes place on legendary Duval Street. We’ll have free posters of the amazing flag for you — and don’t hesitate to ask if you can join us in carrying sections of it in Sunday’s Pride Parade.  

Topics: Events, Festivals, Highlights, Key West, LGBT

My husband and I got married in a Florida Keys park beside the Atlantic Ocean, less than half a mile from the home we still share.

Was it the bride or the groom that the passing angler was trying to rescue from matrimony? We'll never know. (Photo by Richard Watherwax)

We wanted a simple wedding, one that reflected the easygoing way we live. We had no idea that our ceremony would be serendipitously blessed by a pod of dolphins frolicking just offshore, or that our golden retriever “flower dog” would unexpectedly abandon his duties and take off, tail wagging, for the nearby beach — followed by our startled four-year-old flower girl.

And we certainly didn’t expect that a sport fishing boat would motor by and one of its anglers would offer us a wedding-day message.

Spotting the celebratory crowd, and a man and woman obviously about to tie the knot, he cupped his hands around his mouth and hollered across the water, “It’s not too late — JUMP! We’ll pick you up!”

Was he trying to rescue my husband-to-be from the perils of matrimony? Or me? We’ve laughed about the incident many times since that day, but we’ll never know.

Actually, we’ve laughed about a number of offbeat wedding occurrences (including the wandering flower dog). Though we could have held our ceremony practically anywhere in the U.S. or Caribbean, we know our beloved Keys were the perfect spot.

Couples in love can have a dolphin for their "best man" at Islamorada's Theater of the Sea. (Photo courtesy of Theater of the Sea)

We’re far from alone; the Florida Keys are one of the country’s top wedding destinations.

Why? For one thing, the attitude is very easygoing and informal — which means much of the stress of typical wedding planning simply doesn’t happen. Terrific planners can be found from Key Largo to Key West to handle every detail.

Plus, a visit to the Keys is generally regarded as a lighthearted vacation occasion for the entire wedding group — so the experience of the wedding becomes a unique, eagerly anticipated occasion for everyone involved.

And once the wedding party and guests arrive, they’ll be happily entertained. So many activities can be arranged for family and friends — from deep-sea fishing to tall ship sailing excursions to salon services — that the bride and groom don’t need to worry about taking care of their guests. Instead, they can focus on the deepening of their relationship and their lives together.

Another plus is that, while the Keys certainly host formal weddings, many are delightfully informal. The “tux and unflattering bridesmaids’ dress” cliché simply doesn’t have to apply.

What could be more romantic than a horse-drawn carriage as your wedding transportation? (Photo courtesy of Island Horse Drawn Carriage, Inc.)

Shorts or khakis for men and pretty sundresses for women are popular wedding attire, making the wedding a more laid-back and comfortable experience for the whole group (and eliminating the cost of an item that’s worn only once).

And the food options couldn’t be better — whether gourmet or waterfront casual. Many Keys restaurants overlook marinas, beaches or world-class sunset spots, and can easily accommodate groups.

Imagine a reception menu of fresh local seafood: sweet Key West pink shrimp and stone crab claws, conch fritters and chowder, Key lime pie and dishes with a Caribbean or Cuban flair.

Naturally, more traditional cuisine is also available — and trust me, Keys caterers are happy to provide full onsite service at wedding hotspots like Key West’s Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum.

Golden retrievers make excellent "flower dogs" for Keys weddings -- unless they wander off! (Photo courtesy of Crystal Ruffo)

Looking for a setting for intriguing wedding photos? Try the water’s edge with a famed Keys sunset as the backdrop, a historic Civil War-era fort, the Southernmost Point that marks the southernmost spot of land in the continental U.S., or the tiny island of Pigeon Key beneath the Old Seven Mile Bridge near Marathon.

Or pose in a horse-drawn carriage on an Islamorada beach, or cruising on Key Largo’s restored African Queen (yes, the actual boat used in the classic Bogart film).

In fact, if you’re making wedding plans of any kind, consider saying your “I Dos” in the Keys. Just remember to avoid wandering anglers — and keep an eye on your flower dog!

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, Voices Main Archive

“Today’s the day!” That was the cry of Mel Fisher every day as he and his dedicated crew searched for the shipwreck of the Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha, sunk in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico in 1622.

Adventurer Mel Fisher, discoverer of the shipwrecked Spanish galleon Atocha, proved that the American dream is thriving -- at least in the Keys. (Photo provided by Mel Fisher's Treasures)

Key West has become known as a locale where age discrimination is non-existent. And well it might — what with residents of all ages owning businesses, chartering fishing boats, and taking part in virtually all the activities of the island. One of the most adventurous seniors ever to live and work in Key West was Mel Fisher.

Mel and his crew had been searching in Keys waters for the Atocha without success until, in 1971 they found a Spanish anchor. The search continued with limited but encouraging results — until 1975, when Mel’s son Kane found a silver bar whose numbers identified it with the manifest of the Spanish galleon. They knew they were on the right track to discover the fabled shipwreck and the treasures and artifacts it held.

And discover it they did, after ten more years of searching. On July 20, 1985, when Mel Fisher was 63 years old, his crew uncovered a reef of silver bars. They had found the Atocha at last!

Recovering the treasures and artifacts, and performing painstaking underwater archaeology on the site, went on for many years. In fact, Mel himself continued diving until the age of 76. Riches beyond anyone’s expectations, and historic artifacts that were equally important, were discovered at the wrecksite of the Spanish galleon.

Mel and Deo Fisher were early SCUBA pioneers before they became shipwreck seekers. (Photo provided by Mel Fisher's Treasures)

Mel Fisher was born in Hobart, Indiana — an unlikely place to spawn an expert deep-sea diver. Some claim he was influenced by Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Treasure Island.” In any event, he was fascinated by the brand-new sport of diving and became one of its pioneers.

After a stint as a chicken farmer in California, Mel became enamored with diving rivers and turned his focus to the dive business. He and wife Deo opened a dive shop, and Mel expanded his efforts to dive on shipwrecks.

He developed a fascination with shipwreck salvage, which eventually led him to Florida and the Keys. The rest is history.

The Mel Fisher Maritime Museum in Key West is the resting place for many of the priceless objects Mel found. There visitors can learn more about the discovery of the Atocha and the Santa Margarita, another galleon from Spain’s 1622 fleet, and view treasure ranging from gold bars to contraband emeralds. Located at 200 Greene St., the museum is open 365 days a year.

A diver examines gold bars and chains on the site of the Nuestra Se–nora de Atocha shipwreck about 35 miles off Key West. (Photo by Pat Clyne/Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

In honor of the illustrious Mel Fisher, who died in 1998, a festival called Mel Fisher Days is held each year to celebrate his historic discovery. This year’s celebration is scheduled for July 11-14 with events including a costume contest, block party, “treasure brunch” and a meet-and-greet with crewmembers who helped salvage the legendary shipwreck.

Ever the dreamer, the optimist, and a model of perseverance, the late Mel Fisher is an inspiration to seniors. His motto of “Today’s the Day!” is a valuable reminder that each day can bring excitement, promise, and treasure — as long as you have the vision to look for it.  

Topics: Highlights, History, Key West, Local Color, On the Water, Profiles, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive

Visitors to Key West’s Higgs Beach might not pay much attention to the small rectangle of beachfront fenced off from the rest and flanked by tall columns.

A site that experts believe is the only African refugee cemetery in the U.S. stands on Key West's Higgs Beach.

But if they don’t, they’re missing the chance to view an incredible piece of America’s past: a site that experts believe is the only African refugee cemetery in the entire U.S.

The cemetery’s importance was recognized in 2012, when it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places as a nationally significant archaeological site.

Its location was actually confirmed 10 years earlier — when a survey using ground-penetrating radar revealed the presence of graves on the county-owned beach.

According to Corey Malcom, director of archeology for the Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Society, the graves are almost certainly those of Africans who died in 1860. The Africans were brought to Key West for sanctuary after the U.S. Navy freed them from three American-owned slave ships captured near the Cuban coast.

“This is not a slave cemetery; it’s a cemetery of African refugees. I don’t know of any comparable sites in the New World,” said Corey Malcom, whose research and that of Florida Keys historian Gail Swanson led to the cemetery site’s discovery.

Archaeologist Corey Malcom, shown here conserving a shipwreck artifact, is committed to telling the Africans' story. (Photo by Dylan Kibler, courtesy of the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

According to records kept by U.S. Marshal Fernando Moreno in 1860, more than 1,400 African men, women and children were brought to Key West after being rescued from the slave vessels. Key West workers quickly built housing and a hospital for them, demonstrating the caring spirit still evident on the island today.

Most of the refugees were eventually returned to Africa. Sadly, 295 of them died in Key West, probably from illnesses resulting from the brutal conditions aboard the slave ships. They were buried in unmarked graves along the island’s southern shore.

Two years later, construction began on a martello tower that included part of the cemetery site. Eventually, the graves were forgotten.

In 2001, after research revealed that the “lost” cemetery was located somewhere in the Higgs Beach area, the Key West African Memorial Committee and the Old Island Restoration Foundation unveiled a Florida historic plaque opposite the beach to tell the refugees’ story.

Dr. Conyers points out digital evidence of graves revealed during his ground-penetrating radar survey. (Photo courtesy of the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

In June 2002, hoping to pinpoint the cemetery’s exact location — without disturbing any possible traces of human remains — Corey Malcom called in Dr. Lawrence Conyers of Denver, an expert in the use of ground-penetrating radar.

During a three-day survey of Higgs Beach and the adjacent martello tower area, Dr. Conyers was able to discover evidence of at least nine graves, and possibly as many as 15. This was positive confirmation of the cemetery’s location.

Since that momentous discovery, African tribal dignitaries have performed ceremonies at the site to reconsecrate the ground and honor the buried Africans. In addition, the Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Society created a major exhibition about the refugees and their poignant history.

In 2010, additional surveys revealed at least 100 more graves in the area.

The cemetery is now marked by a memorial featuring pedestals bearing African symbols. (Photo courtesy of the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

Today, the cemetery is marked by a group of pedestals adorned with African Adinkra symbols and topped with engraved bronze plaques. A concrete base features a rendition of the slave trade’s maritime route, and a tile mural is inlaid into the platform riser. Ornamental fencing encloses the site on three sides.

Together, these elements reflect the cultures of the people buried in the cemetery — and how they came to be so far from home. Those who care about the site hope eventually to add a traditional African-inspired shrine structure and an obelisk that functions as a sundial.

After more than 15 years of research and effort, Key West’s African refugee cemetery is recognized as a sacred heritage site. Even more important, the Africans buried there are remembered and honored … as they so richly deserve.

Topics: Highlights, History, Key West, Voices Main Archive

The last couple weeks have kept me busy and on the go. I met a lot of Key West fans at the recent Gay Travel Expo in Chicago, and returning home to the island I met fun-loving people on the American Eagle flight from Miami. 

This engaging panorama by local artist Rick Worth graces the exterior of Key West International Airport.

American now has jet service to Key West (a quick 22-minute flight from Miami!) and the view is spectacular. After landing at Key West International Airport, you enter an arrivals lounge that is under renovation and expansion. Soon we’ll have two baggage carousels, newly remodeled restrooms and relocated automotive rental counters. 

FYI, you’ll find the major car rental companies here — but once you’re in Old Town Key West, you really don’t need a car. Walking and bicycles are the preferred means of traversing our two-mile by four-mile island. You’ll find pedicabs and taxis all over Old Town if the walk seems too far.

Plans are underway for Key West Pride, set for June 5-9, where we celebrate our lifestyle here on the island. Festivities begin with the Key West Business Guild’s open-house mixer at the Island House. Starting at 5 p.m. the boys of Island House will serve cocktails and champagne while passing gourmet hors d’oeuvres. Mingle with our local characters and learn why we chose to live at the “end of the road,” closer to Cuba than Miami.

Key West Pride includes a film festival at the Tropic Cinema featuring a new documentary about Divine, who made Key West her home. We crown a Miss Pride, Ms. Pride, and Mr. Pride during three nights of pageants. In addition the Kinsey Sicks, dubbed “a Dragapella Beautyshop Quartet,” bring their music and humor to the stage for three performances at the Waterfront Playhouse. 

Gilbert Baker savors the moment as his 1.25-mile rainbow flag is unfurled down Key West's Duval Street. (Photo by Mike Hollar, Florida Keys News Bureau)

During Pride week you can enjoy pool parties, disco dance parties, late-night soirees, and moonlight sailing excursions.

Our highlight Pride parade features Gilbert Baker, creator of the original rainbow flag, as the grand marshall. Three sections of the 1.25-mile sea-to-sea rainbow flag, which was created by Baker and unfurled down the entire length of Key West’s Duval Street in 2003, will be carried in the parade. 

Spending time on the water during Pride brings so many choices for visitors. I like to join LGBT friends on Venus Charters for a dolphin-watching adventure, or join the guys snorkeling and kayaking on the Blu Q.

Venus Charters’ Captain Karen has been entertaining gay women and men for years, showing them how to fish and snorkel and sharing the excitement of discovering pods of our native dolphin (not to be confused with the dolphin fish served in local eateries). Captain Steve of the famed Blu Q takes a day on the water to another level: join him and his crew for a clothing-optional snorkeling excursion along with a romantic picnic on a remote island.

A group of friends prepares to embark on a Blu Q cruise in Key West waters. (Photo courtesy of Blu Q)

Watching the sun set each day at Mallory Square is a unique experience (a tradition that, legend has it, was started more than 30 years ago by a gay trolley driver with a pitcher of martinis). Today the nightly sunset celebration features locally-made arts and crafts as well as exuberant performers and buskers.

Other sunset options include a relaxed sailing excursion, complete with fine imported wines and hors d’oeuvres, on Danger Charters’ Wind and Wine Sunset Sail. Other times you’ll find me with a group of friends on the Fury’s Commotion on the Ocean sunset adventure with live music and margaritas.

Join us here for Key West Pride, and I guarantee you’ll make new friends and take home countless stories and memories to share. See you June 5!

Topics: Events, Festivals, Key West, LGBT, On the Water

Legions of contemporary television viewers are obsessed by episodes of the wildly popular reality show “The Amazing Race.” Chances are, though, they don’t realize that May 2013 marks the 100th anniversary of one of the most amazing races in history.

Key West aviator Agustin Parla was one of the two competitors in "The Amazing Race" of 1913. (Image courtesy of Alex Pascual)

The year was 1913 and the place was Key West — and the race was a competition between two early aviators to make the first flight from Key West to Havana, Cuba.

The competitors were Domingo Rosillo, who was born in Algeria and lived mostly in Spain, and Key West native Agustin Parla, whose father owned a toy store and had been a friend of Cuban patriot Jose Marti. According to Alex Pascual, author of a new book on Key West’s Cuban heritage, Parla graduated from Miami’s Curtis School of Aviation in 1912 — becoming the first Key Wester ever to be certified as an airline pilot.

Naturally, when the city of Havana and the Curtis School announced a competition to determine who would become the first pilot to fly from Key West to Havana, Parla jumped at the chance to compete.

So did Rosillo. By May 17, 1913, each had acquired a plane and both were ready to attempt the flight — estimated at about 110 miles. As well as the honor of making the first crossing, they were vying for a $10,000 prize. 

This postcard commemorates Parla's historic May 19 flight from Key West to Cuba. (Image courtesy of Alex Pascual)

Around 5:10 a.m., Rosillo took off from Key West, battling significant winds in a plane some had reportedly dubbed “the motorized kite.”

About 45 minutes later Parla followed — but encountered mechanical problems almost immediately and was forced to return, ending his attempt.

Rosillo flew onward. Just over 2.5 hours later he landed in Havana, winning “The Amazing Race” and sparking wild celebrations.

Agustin Parla, however, was determined to repair his plane and complete the journey. On May 19, carrying a Cuban flag that Jose Marti had flown at Key West events, he took off for Havana without telling a soul. Though he narrowly avoided a crash landing, he reached Mariel, Cuba, and accomplished his goal.

The race of 1913 wasn’t the end of Key West’s pioneering role in flight. In 1927, the island was the birthplace of one-time aviation giant Pan American Airlines. And before that, it was home to Aeromarine Airways.

John Richmond, owner of the Conch Flyer at Key West International Airport, points out some early aviation memorabilia at the Flyer. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In 1920, Aeromarine began America’s first official international airmail service, between Key West and Havana. Aeromarine also inaugurated America’s first scheduled international passenger service — and strangely enough, passengers and sacks of mail were charged the same fare for the trip.

Pan Am’s first international flight was as dramatic as the race between Rosillo and Parla. 

By Oct. 11, 1927, the fledgling airline possessed a contract with the U.S. Post Office to deliver mail between Key West and Havana — but that contract required the first load of letters to be delivered by Oct. 19.

Unfortunately, Pan Am’s planes hadn’t arrived in Key West (despite being ordered 18 months earlier). Luckily, a seaplane pilot named Cy Caldwell was persuaded to make the flight.

Passengers on a recent celebratory flight receive a lively welcome at Key West International Airport. (Photo by Carol Tedesco, Florida Keys News Bureau)

At 8:04 a.m. Oct. 19, he left Key West with seven sacks of mail holding approximately 30,000 letters.

And while his journey made history as Pan Am’s first “official” flight, it was so brief that he landed in Havana about an hour before the cable announcing his departure arrived.

Today, Key West’s unique place in aviation history is widely recognized — as is intrepid airman Agustin Parla.

Years after “The Amazing Race” with Rosillo, he helped develop the island’s Meacham Field, which later evolved into Key West International Airport. Fittingly, in 1957, a bust memorializing Parla’s accomplishments was installed in a place of honor at the airport.  

(Heartfelt thanks to Alex Pascual for providing the background information about Agustin Parla and Domingo Rosillo.)

Topics: Highlights, History, Key West, Voices Main Archive