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Keys Key West

Dry Tortugas Trip is a Voyage into History

You’re never far from water in the Florida Keys. Swimming, fishing, snorkeling, or just relaxing — the water is there to be enjoyed, no matter what your age or inclination.

Fort Jefferson, lying on a tiny island in the Dry Tortugas nearly 70 miles west of Key West, is a favorite spot for visitors. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

One of the most enjoyable water experiences is a voyage aboard the 100-foot catamaran Yankee Freedom II to Dry Tortugas National Park and Fort Jefferson. Located 68 miles west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico, Dry Tortugas is America’s most remote national park — and the six-sided Civil War-era fort just might be the largest brick structure in the Western Hemisphere.

Aboard the Yankee Freedom, you’ll find an air-conditioned main cabin equipped with comfortable benches and tables (if you’re like me, that’s where you’ll want to spend most of your time). The main deck also has three restrooms, including one that’s handicapped-accessible.

If you prefer being outside and don’t mind climbing stairs, you’ll love the second deck. Partly covered and partly open, it’s a great place for basking in the sun and spotting fish, sea turtles and other marine life.

The Yankee Freedom offers comfortable, entertaining daily voyages to the Dry Tortugas. (Photo courtesy of Yankee Freedom and Historic Tours of America)

Once the catamaran leaves its dock at Key West’s Historic Seaport, you can enjoy a bountiful breakfast on board. Shortly you’ll cruise past Boca Grande National Bird Sanctuary, Marquesas Key atoll, and the site of the shipwrecked Spanish treasure galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha. An onboard tour guide provides commentary along the way, sharing his knowledge of the area.

The Dry Tortugas are actually seven tiny coral-and-sand islets that were discovered in 1513 by Ponce de Leon. He named them “Las Tortugas” for the numerous turtles he discovered there — and when no fresh water could be found, the word “Dry” was added to their name.

Massive Fort Jefferson stands on Garden Key, the Tortugas’ largest island, taking up almost the entire land mass.

The fort dates back to 1846, and chances are you’ll find its history as intriguing as I did. Key West was a Union stronghold during the Civil War, so Fort Jefferson was used to house the Union Army’s prisoners — including Dr. Samuel Mudd, who set John Wilkes Booth’s broken leg after Booth shot President Abraham Lincoln.

America's largest masonry structure, the fort welcomes people eager to explore the Tortugas' natural and historic wonders. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Several years after his imprisonment, when the fort’s only doctor died in a yellow fever epidemic, Dr. Mudd treated other prisoners and soldiers who contracted the disease. Eventually, in part because of requests from his captors, President Andrew Johnson granted Dr. Mudd a full pardon.

Today, Yankee Freedom passengers can take a guided tour of the fort and view Dr. Mudd’s cell (bleak enough to make me shiver), or stroll the grounds on their own.

If you’re a birder, be sure to bring your binoculars. Hundreds of species can be found on nearby Bird Key, and you can walk outside the fort and search for them.

Snorkelers and swimmers, bring your bathing suits. Snorkel gear is provided, so you can slip into the crystal blue water for a pleasant hour of activity (you’ll find a shower on the Yankee Freedom that’s great for washing off saltwater).

Tortugas visitors can view seemingly endless vistas of sea and sky. (Photo courtesy of Yankee Freedom and Historic Tours of America)

And if you’re feeling lazy, simply relax on Garden Key’s sandy beach or under the trees.

Later, you’ll return to the boat for a buffet lunch of cold cuts, salads, sandwiches, and desserts set up by the crew — followed by more time to explore the fort and Garden Key. On one of my trips I was escorting a CNN reporter, and we climbed all over the fort shooting photos and checking out the panoramas of turquoise water and sky.

Passengers tend to be quiet on the journey back to Key West, lulled by the wash of waves, savoring a snack or drink as they recall the highlights of their day.

Whether you’re interested in history, architecture, birding, or just having a good time, you can’t beat a day trip to Dry Tortugas National Park. But don’t take my word for it 
 come down and experience it for yourself.

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How to Get to Paradise

A big question I get from potential visitors is, “How do you get to Key West?” When I moved to the island, our airport sporting the famous airport code EYW had occasional air-conditioning, a few ceiling fans that turned, and a big hole in the wall through which our luggage was tossed. DC3 aircraft served the island from a couple of cities, along with an occasional Air Florida jet.

This panorama by local artist Rick Worth graces the exterior of Key West International Airport.

This engaging panorama by local artist Rick Worth graces the exterior of Key West International Airport.

Some people don’t realize that we now have a new modern airport with great airline choices. The terminal even showcases local artists’ work through our Art in Public Places program — and its exterior features a wonderful Key West mural painted by local artist Rick Worth.

EYW is now served by more connecting flights, from a larger variety of cities, than ever before. Don’t worry about flying those “puddle jumpers” (even though they’re really fun) as we have fewer of them than ever!

American Airlines’ loyal customers can connect through the newly renovated Miami International Airport (MIA) gate D60.  When I began flying AA, they brought box-like Shorts 360 aircraft to EYW. These funny-looking flying boxes gave you a shower from the air-conditioning if you sat in the front rows, and a roller-coaster ride in the back.

Beginning this summer AA, which has served EYW for years with a variety of aircraft, will be flying regional jet planes for the 25-minute ride.

Delta serves us out of Atlanta (ATL) with several daily regional jet flights and a daily big 737 with a first-class cabin for those who like to ride up front.

Visitors can either fly into Key West or drive the unique and scenic Overseas Highway. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

AirTran has now officially become Southwest. Though their booking websites have not completely merged, you can book a daily round-trip to the island from either Tampa International (TPA) or Orlando International (MCO). And flight frequency may increase, since Southwest normally operates several daily flights on its routes.

United and Continental are merging as well, and offer flights to EYW from both Tampa and Fort Lauderdale International (FLL). Their Beachcraft 19-seaters are soon to be gone, replaced by larger 29-seat Saab SF340 turbo-props.

Favorite New England-based Cape Air brings five flights per day from Fort Myers International (RSW) to EYW. Traveling in Cape Air’s signature nine-passenger Cessna 402s, passengers can connect through RSW from Jet Blue, American Airlines, and most other carriers with their through-baggage agreements.

Among other highlights of Key West’s new airport is the expanded Conch Flyer Restaurant. Long a favorite watering hole for locals, it still serves one of the best bowls of conch chowder on the island. Chock full of conch, potatoes and fresh carrots, this local-made chowder is even available to take home from the departure cafĂ© and bar.

The new Flyer still has super burgers, BLT sandwiches, and great tuna salad — plus an outdoor “beach bar” complete with a waterfall and free WiFi.

John Richmond, owner of the Conch Flyer, indicates some aviation memorabilia on display at the popular bar and restaurant. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In other words, getting to Key West by air is just getting better than ever!

Of course, if you prefer, you can drive down on the scenic Overseas Highway, an unforgettable road whose 40-some bridges span the blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico. As well as unparalleled panoramas, this leisurely drive offers the chance to explore the Upper, Middle and Lower Keys.

You can always drive down from South Florida and book your return flight out of EYW 
 giving you the best of both worlds for your Key West experience.

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Longstanding Keys Tradition Celebrated at 50th ‘Conch Honk’

It’s not a brass or stringed instrument or a drum, but the fluted pink-lined conch shell is the instrument behind the Florida Keys’ most indigenous form of “musical” expression.

Key West's rich "conch" heritage is showcased by kids and grownups alike in the annual "conch honk." (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The art of conch shell blowing is demonstrated every March by novices and rare “pucker pros” at Key West’s annual Conch Shell Blowing Contest — which celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2012.

(Mercifully for most contestants, musical ability is not required, though some seasoned contest entrants can play recognizable tunes.)

The tradition of blowing a conch shell in the Florida Keys began long ago. In the 1800s, when the local economy was largely based on salvaging cargoes from ships wrecked on the nearby reef, sailors attracted attention by blowing piercing blasts on the shell.

“There wasn’t a ship that went out that didn’t have at least one conch shell on it for communications,” said veteran contest winner Clinton Curry.

Clinton Curry, the contest's 2008 winner, performed the amazing feat of tootling two shells simultaneously. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The Keys’ connection with conch, however, goes far beyond instrumental and communications applications. The shell of the queen conch is a symbol of the island chain, and the slightly tough meat of the hardy mollusk is the prime ingredient in conch chowder and conch fritters — two of the area’s signature dishes.

In addition, native Keys residents proudly proclaim their own tough, hardy nature by calling themselves “conchs” — pronounced konks — and their home the Conch Republic.

The republic was born April 23, 1982, after the U.S. Border Patrol set up a blockade that virtually stopped traffic on the only road from the mainland. In protest, local officials staged the Keys’ secession from the United States.

Even NBC "Today" weatherman Al Roker (left) and anchor Matt Lauer are fans of the Conch Republic! Here they display the republic's flag during a special broadcast from Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

After renaming the islands the independent Conch Republic, they declared war on the mother country, pelted federal agents with stale Cuban bread, surrendered after 60 seconds and demanded foreign aid (which, FYI, never arrived).

Today, Keys patriots fly the blue flag of the republic, whose motto is “We Seceded Where Others Failed,” and recall the secession with a lively festival each April. The 2012 Conch Republic Independence Celebration will take place April 20-29, highlighted by a 30th-anniversary re-enactment of the secession on April 23.

Before that, several dozen kids and adults are expected to compete in the 50th anniversary “conch honk” Saturday, March 3.

At the 2011 contest, a Key West musician nicknamed Mandolin Steve played parts of two classic rock songs on one pink-lined shell to take top honors in the men’s division. Steve Gibson blew recognizable excerpts (honest!) from the Rolling Stones’ “Satisfaction” and Deep Purple’s “Smoke on the Water,” earning the crowd’s vigorous applause for his pucker prowess.

Supporters of the quirky Conch Republic show their conch spirit each spring with a lively festival. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

“The trick is to get the shell vibrating, and that’s how you make the sound,” advised Steve, a repeat contender who has taken second place in past contests. “You’re doing it more with the ‘pfffftt’ noise than with the breath.”

Steve learned the “instrument” about five years before his victory while working as a 19th-century shipwreck salvage re-enactor.

“I don’t play the conch shell much because it’s so loud,” he admitted after his win, “but every now and then to scare my neighbor.”

Key West hotelier Kate Miano triumphed in the women’s division after blowing a strong 16-second blast to win a tie-breaker against another female contender.

The top group entry was a self-described “conchestra,” whose 24 members saluted the queen conch with a conch-shell accompaniment and offbeat dance to the strains of Abba’s “Dancing Queen.”

On March 3, entrants in the 50th annual contest will attempt to eclipse their predecessors’ musicianship. But even more important, they’ll demonstrate the strength of the conch connection 
 and honor an age-old Keys tradition.

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Take the Plunge: Learn to Dive in the Florida Keys

It’s February. Nobody seems sure whether that pesky groundhog saw his shadow or not — or what it means when he does. Whether you’re stuck in the snow belt or the “gray skies belt,” it’s a great time to escape to the pristine blue waters of the Florida Keys.

The bronze Christ of the Abyss sculpture is an iconic location for Keys divers and snorkelers. (Photo by Stephen Frink)

One of nature’s greatest wonders is a living coral reef — and the only one in the continental United States parallels the Keys. That means the island chain is an unbelievable place to learn to scuba dive.

Check out the facts here, and then consider heading to Florida’s southernmost islands to “take the plunge.”

WHO can learn to dive?

Any healthy, active person as young as age 10 can learn and enjoy the adventurous sport of scuba diving.

WHAT certification classes are available?

If you’re seeking entry-level certification, allow three to five days for training. Also called “Open Water” certification, this requires classroom work and pool training, followed by one or more open-water dives at the reef.

Once you pass a knowledge test and complete the required number of dives, you become a certified recreational scuba diver — eligible to rent dive gear and book dive trips with most operations worldwide.

Generally, basic certification covers depths to about 60 feet.

Divers explore the superstructure of the Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg artificial reef off Key West. (Photo by Haig Jacobs/Florida Keys News Bureau)

Short on time? Use an online computer program to complete classroom work at home — dealing with concepts such as basic physics and physiology, and the importance of monitoring time and depth during a dive. (For some online courses, students must be at least 13 years old.)

Once that’s done, schedule time in the Keys to complete your water skills during open-water dives 
 and explore the reef.

HOW MUCH will it cost?

Scuba is an investment in adventure. The price varies, but a basic certification course generally runs a few hundred dollars.

When you’re researching professional dive operations, make sure you consider value versus price, what rental equipment is included in the cost, and whether or not you receive personalized, one-on-one service and training.

Snorkelers discover the undersea realm off Key Largo in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. (Photo by Bob Care/Florida Keys News Bureau)

WHERE do students receive their dive training?

The entire Keys are an unparalleled dive destination. Some of America’s very first businesses offering recreational dive training were opened in the Keys.

You can choose from dozens of dive operations staffed with working professionals. Keys dive instructors actively teach and train each day — not just seasonally.

Click a region here to see available professional dive facilities: Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine and the Lower Keys, and Key West.

WHEN are classes offered?

In the Keys (unlike other U.S. destinations), year-round subtropical weather and clear, warm seas mean an ideal learning environment virtually any time of year — which sure beats learning to dive in a cold, dark quarry or lake up north.

WHAT’S the “classroom” like?

Training usually is conducted in small groups, allowing personalized or even one-to-one attention.

Training conditions at the Keys’ shallow barrier reef are nice and easy, with light currents and great underwater visibility. You’ll learn about ocean waves, marine life, beautiful corals and navigation around natural formations during a dive.

The Florida Keys' unparalleled natural beauty draws scores of snorkelers and divers to explore the living coral reef.

Ocean depths from the shoreline to the reef rarely reach 20 feet. The reef lives in waters as shallow as five feet and as deep as 50 feet, but most reef divers log a maximum depth of 20 to 30 feet.

Keys shallow diving means you can safely spend more time on the bottom, and colors are brighter and more vibrant because more natural sunlight reaches shallow depths.

WHY dive the Keys?

The Keys attract some of the world’s most diverse species of fish, and you also can enjoy a “wreck trek” of venerable historic wrecks and ships intentionally sunk to create artificial reefs. These artificial reefs are home to a huge variety of corals and fish.

In fact, Keys sites offer divers — from recreational to expert — the chance to experience the underwater world’s beauty, diversity and serenity.

And that’s awfully appealing 
 especially in February.

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A Senior’s Key West Insights

Talk about culture shock. I was a senior citizen when I first came to Key West to visit my daughter, who had already bridged the gap from midwestern city to the tropical island at the end of the line.

Blog author Katharine chats with world-renowned marine life artist Wyland, who lives in the Upper Keys.

Blog author Katharine chats with world-renowned marine life artist Wyland, who lives in the Upper Keys.

The warm weather and lack of snow in midwinter were the least of the differences. Actually, I’d had enough of using the snow blower and starting the car just before going to bed in the hope that the darn thing would run in the morning.

The casual attitude (and dress) of those who lived in the Keys was a much greater change. But it was one I happily learned to live with as I returned to become a resident of the island chain.

One of the first things I noticed was the complete lack of age discrimination — or even recognition. Nineteen or 90, everyone was welcome everywhere. To paraphrase Jimmy Buffett, age in the Keys is a state of mind. To a senior from a traditional background, this was a remarkable fact.

Being in the younger stage of “seniorhood,” I was able to participate in almost everything the Keys offered. I drew the line at parasailing, but snorkeling was an enjoyable way to spend an hour or two and view the fish from another angle.

I soon noticed the scores of bicycle-riders on the streets of Key West, so one of my first stops was at a bike store. Emerging some time later, I was off to see the sights from the seat of my “conch cruiser.”

Toured by scores of visitors daily, the Hemingway property became a museum in 1964 and was recently designated a literary landmark. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Toured by scores of visitors daily, the Hemingway property became a museum in 1964 and was recently designated a literary landmark. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

On that early adventure, there was so much to see — and so much to do. I was told that one must never leave the Keys without having something to drink at Sloppy Joe’s Bar, where Hemingway whiled away many hours and imbibed many such concoctions. Though I never planned to leave, I felt compelled to follow tradition and stop in. And speaking of Hemingway, I had to see his house, where he worked, and his six-toed cats. Just another bicycle ride down the street.

Exploring the Key West Bight, filled with shrimp boats, was another must. Today it’s filled with sailboats and excursion craft, but is still an enthralling sight.

My legs were feeling the strain of pedaling, so I returned to my car for the drive to midtown. There I was able to find Tennessee Williams’ house — which was smaller than I had anticipated, but its red shutters made it stand out.

During the next few weeks I explored Bahama Village, where some of the original Key West settlers lived. I even ventured into another watering hole, Captain Tony’s Saloon, where Tony Tarracino still held court, for an alcoholic treat.

And since then, I have never ceased marveling at the sunset, the people, and the climate of my favorite place in the world.

Katharine and her husband Joe (far right) quickly made friends with senior (and younger) Ernest Hemingway Look-Alikes, who roam Key West each year during July's Hemingway Days.

Katharine and her husband Joe (far right) quickly met senior (and younger) Ernest Hemingway Look-Alikes in Key West for an annual contest.

Today Key West has changed in many ways. The streets are busier, with more shops and restaurants for visitors and residents to enjoy. There are more resorts and hotels, and more visitors, who please local merchants by leaving behind a fair quantity of dollars.

And I don’t ride a bicycle anymore.

But the wonderful attitude, the laid-back lifestyle that’s truly Caribbean, remains throughout the island chain. It still doesn’t matter if you’re 20 or 90 — you’re still welcome and there’s still plenty to see and do.

The Keys lifestyle is what I will be discussing in this column during the next months. The opportunities that are here for seniors, just for the taking. The sights, the activities, and the wonderful, quirky atmosphere that belongs to the Keys and the Keys alone.

You’ll see entries from me in this space around the middle of each month — and probably more often as time goes on. So keep checking back, and keep reading!

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Entertainment, Eateries and Hot Smokin’ Tuna

February is bringing great groups of visitors to Key West — and for us locals, that means great energy across the island, lively nightclubs, events almost every week, fabulous live music in the bars, and an opportunity to show off our southernmost home.

Randy Roberts displays mega-talent during performances at beloved Key West landmark La Te Da.

Randy Roberts displays mega-talent during performances at Key West's beloved La Te Da.

For example, Pearl’s Patio is featuring Susie Comet, the Joe Tenuto Band and Chief Billy & Bob Paul. Stop in at 525 United St. and join the fun. Pearl’s Key West, a full-service resort just a block from the Atlantic Ocean, was originally a women-only property. Today, while it’s gay oriented, it now welcomes everyone at Pearl’s Patio and during guest hours.

Around the corner is La Te Da, one of our internationally famous meccas. Serving guests and locals for more than 30 years, La Te Da offers the streetside Terrace Bar, the By George Piano Par and the Crystal Bar in the upstairs cabaret.

When you’re enjoying the sounds of Dave Bootle or Debra and Patrick, you’ll want to hit the dance floor. While there you will be watched over by a 1905 tapestry of King George V hanging in a place of honor over the bar. Upstairs in the Cabaret at La Te Da, you’ll enjoy the talents of world-class impersonators during Randy Roberts LIVE and Christopher Peterson’s EYECONS. (Check the calendar so you can plan your evenings around some of the best entertainment on the island.)

Down the street, we will soon be crowning Key West’s Queen of Mardi Gras upstairs at the 801 Cabaret. At 7 p.m. Feb. 16, the pageant will kick off with great performances, gowns, and more fun than you can imagine.

Blog writer Steve Smith really sinks his teeth into Key West's activities and attractions!

Blog writer Steve Smith really sinks his teeth into Key West's activities and attractions!

Join in the Mardi Gras festivities across the street at the Bourbon St. Pub, our club that brings a taste of New Orleans to the island. After the Feb. 16 kickoff, the fun runs through a Mardi Gras Pub Crawl on Fat Tuesday, Feb. 21. As always, the event benefits a local charity, the Sister Season Fund.

If you’re looking for a slightly quieter spot for a romantic cocktail, stop by the Point5 Cocktail Club upstairs at 915 Duval. There’s a great balcony overlooking the Duval Street action, and you can savor $5 premium beverages and gourmet pizzas every day from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. Then enjoy a leisurely evening on the side porch of the dignified Victorian house-turned-restaurant, sharing plates of tapas prepared by an award-winning chef who has served his specialties for the James Beard Foundation.

For another great Key West experience, stroll down Duval Street to tiny Charles Street and the Smokin’ Tuna Saloon. One of our unique restaurant and entertainment facilities, the Tuna serves a variety of fresh seafood, oysters, dinners and starters — while top bands play live music.

Mama's Black Sheep are headed baaaaa-ck to Shanna Key.

The girls of Mama's Black Sheep are headed baaaaa-ck to Shanna Key.

If you feel like crossing the pond (i.e., traversing the Garrison Bight Bridge), check out Shanna Key Irish Pub, Grill, and Sports Bar. Shanna Key is the spot to watch your favorite American and European sports on two big-screen and nine HD televisions.

On Wednesday, Feb. 22, the hot girls’ group Mama’s Black Sheep returns to perform till midnight in celebration of singer Ashland Miller’s birthday. Don’t know who Mama’s Black Sheep is? Take one guitar, a bunch of drums, two amazing voices, a dash of humor, a touch of love, and strong musicianship. Mix and stir, and you have this terrific group.

On a personal note, my husband Paul can often be found at Shanna Key enjoying fish and chips. An expat Brit, he chooses Shanna Key’s fish and chips as his island favorite.

So until next time, have fun, enjoy our watering holes and restaurants, and keep an eye out for me!

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Over-Sea Railroad History Lives on Beyond Centennial

The official Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad centennial celebration ended Jan. 23 (and it was a great joy to be part of the once-in-a-lifetime event). But even though that date has passed, you can still explore sites, exhibits and landmarks recalling the world-renowned railroad that, in 1912, connected the Keys with mainland Florida for the first time.

Visitors to the Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House examine the exhibit commemorating the 100th anniversary of the debut of Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Visitors to the Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House examine the exhibit commemorating the 100th anniversary of the debut of Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, check out “Flagler’s Speedway to Sunshine,” a permanent exhibit at the Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House. Fascinating for railroad buffs, history aficionados, kids and anyone who loves the Keys, the exhibit showcases the construction, heyday and demise of the railroad once called “the eighth wonder of the world.”

At the impressive red-brick museum, you’ll find a re-created railway car, a replica section of the Old Seven Mile Bridge that was the Over-Sea Railroad’s centerpiece, vintage footage of the train trip from the Middle Keys to Key West, a film spotlighting railroad creator Henry Flagler and the first train’s arrival in Key West, and MUCH more.

In a new exhibit section, you’ll discover Key West’s Prohibition era, the Great Depression, and even the 1935 hurricane that severely damaged parts of the railroad and helped end its reign. Also featured are the history of Key West’s Casa Marina, the jewel of Flagler’s resort hotels, and even family albums and memorabilia from Ernest Hemingway’s life in Key West during the 1930s.

Railroad and history buffs can visit the former Over-Sea Railroad work camp at Pigeon Key, lying beneath the historic Old Seven Mile Bridge. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Railroad and history buffs can visit the former Over-Sea Railroad work camp at Pigeon Key, lying beneath the historic Old Seven Mile Bridge. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The museum is far from the only place you can experience the history of the fabled Over-Sea Railroad — whose track, by the way, stretched more than 100 miles out over open water. Near Marathon in the Middle Keys, a railroad heritage site called Pigeon Key lies beneath the Old Seven Mile Bridge, providing an eye-opening window on Keys life a century ago.

Just over two miles west of Marathon, five-acre Pigeon Key was home to more than 400 workers who built the railroad in the early 1900s. The island was a base camp with a commissary and one-room school during the Seven Mile Bridge’s construction from 1908 to 1912.

Today many of Pigeon Key’s original railroad buildings and houses still stand — and it’s no surprise to find that the tiny, pristine speck of land is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It also has a museum that chronicles the construction of the amazing railroad, and daily historic tours are offered.

Costumed artists and re-enactors celebrate the debut of Key Largo's mural inspired by the Over-Sea Railroad centennial. (Photo courtesy of Cris Sandifer)

Costumed artists and re-enactors celebrate the debut of Key Largo's mural inspired by the Over-Sea Railroad centennial. (Photo courtesy of Cris Sandifer)

Combine your Pigeon Key expedition with a boat ride by taking the ferry from a visitor center at Knight’s Key, located at mile marker 47 on the west end of Marathon.

Even if you can’t explore Pigeon Key or the Key West exhibit, you’ll glimpse plenty of reminders of the Over-Sea Railroad simply by driving through the Keys on the Overseas Highway — which evolved from the railroad itself. For example, near mile marker 95 bayside in Key Largo stands an intriguing outdoor mural, recently painted by artists from the Upper Keys’ Art Guild of the Purple Isles and Keys high school art club students.

The hand-painted mural measures 60 feet long and 11.5 feet high, and depicts an Over-Sea Railroad passenger train steaming across an arched bridge that looks a lot like the Long Key Viaduct. In the sky is a full moon adorned with the face of railroad visionary Henry Flagler.

And speaking of bridges, it’s easy to spot many of the original railroad bridges alongside the spans supporting the modern Florida Keys Overseas Highway — the contemporary connection from mainland Florida through the Keys — that follows the trail blazed by Flagler a century ago.

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What to Do in Key West — Where Do We Begin???

Often I’m asked what there is to do in Key West. That’s a loaded question, because our little island has so many options that it’s difficult to describe — and impossible to do everything.

Ladies in early 1900s attire participate in a recent Key West parade to honor the centennial anniversary of the completion of Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Ladies in early 1900s attire participate in a recent Key West parade to honor the centennial anniversary of the completion of Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, visitors to Key West in recent weeks could have experienced a drag queen lowered to the street in a six-foot red stiletto on New Year’s Eve, a seafood festival, the 30th annual Key West Literary Seminar, two parades down Duval Street that included everything from bicycles and antique cars to marching bands and Boy Scouts, a premiere yacht race, the centennial celebration of Henry Flagler’s Over-Sea Railroad, and the Ragnar Relay that brought hundreds of colorful runners for a 199-mile relay race.

Our theatres are constantly producing exceptional shows, from those penned by local authors to Broadway hits. In February, the Waterfront Playhouse is offering “Dead Man’s Cell Phone” and the Red Barn Theatre is staging the Broadway smash hit “God of Carnage.”

One of my favorite February events is Valentine’s Day at the Curry Mansion Inn — a gala now in its 29th year. Caroline Street outside the inn will be closed as several hundred locals and visitors join the festivities to raise funds for the Wesley House, a local organization serving Keys families and children.

Would you let this costumed character preside over your bingo game? Scores of people do each Sunday in Key West.

Would you let this costumed character preside over your bingo game? Scores of people do each Sunday in Key West.

The event includes the largest silent auction in Key West, food from great local restaurants, fabulous entertainment including our own Howard Livingston and Honey Mouth performing in two areas, free-flowing libations and colorfully dressed attendees.

Last year’s gala raised more than $60,000 for services provided to the children of the Keys. It takes lots of volunteer hours to produce events of this type, but we seem to have an endless supply of hours to share with our community. (If you want to attend, tickets are available at KeysTix.)

A dazzling star of this island is Mitch Jones. Qmitch, as he calls himself on his Facebook page, is a product of Rocky Mount, N.C.  Raised as a “good ole Southern boy” in a quiet Baptist household, he never missed a Sunday church event.

Mitch was a charter member of the American Airlines Executive Platinum desk, where he catered to the needs of the airline’s top 2 percent VIP customers. Luckily for us, he took an early leave and brought his personality, talent, and generosity to the island on the unique date of 06/06/06.

Key West's own Sushi recently found herself a "centerfold" in the pages of Reader's Digest.

Key West's own Sushi recently found herself a "centerfold" in the pages of Reader's Digest.

In addition to raising funds for many local charities, Mitch took the helm of 801’s Sunday Bingo after Key West’s beloved RV Beaumont left us. Each Sunday, a full house of raucous faithful locals and visitors is greeted by Mitch in a one-of-a-kind outfit. FYI, in addition to the funds bingo raises for charity, Mitch will auction his outfits to benefit the charity.

Stop by some Sunday (before 5 p.m. to insure a space to perch), buy a few bingo cards, and buckle your seatbelt for the bingo your granny never got to experience. But even if you’re not in Key West, you can catch Mitch’s Sunday Bingo live online at World Famous Drag Queen Bingo — or check out a rerun!

On a final note, surprises often come in small packages. This week I was treated to Reader’s Digest Magazine’s “Best of 2011 Rollicking Roundup.”  Spread over two pages was Key West’s own favorite drag queen Sushi on New Year’s Eve, perched in the red stiletto overlooking thousands on Duval Street in front of Bourbon St. Pub. What a treat to see her featured in this global publication!

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100 Years After Railroad Debut, Flagler ‘Flower Girl’ Gets Bouquet

Just about 100 years ago, a five-year-old Key West girl was chosen to present a special bouquet of flowers to Henry Flagler’s wife Mary Lily on the day that marked the completion of Flagler’s Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad.
Those plans fell through — but a century later, at 105 years old, Lamar Louise Curry finally met “Flagler” and he presented a similar bouquet to her.
The Over-Sea Railroad, a miracle of engineering whose track stretched more than 100 miles out into open water, connected the previously isolated Keys with each other and the Florida mainland for the first time. Its completion has been called the most important single event in Florida Keys history.
On Jan. 22, 1912, when the first Over-Sea Railroad train arrived in Key West from the mainland, thousands of Key Westers greeted Flagler, his wife and other dignitaries. Despite carefully laid plans, however, the young Miss Curry was not among them.
The little girl had eaten peanuts the day before and come down with a terrible stomachache. Her stomach illness (later determined to be a sensitivity to peanuts) caused her to miss the train’s arrival, and the honor of presenting the flowers was given to another young lady.
When the organizers of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad Centennial Celebration found out about Miss Curry — who now lives in Coral Gables, Fla. — they desperately wanted her to come to Key West on Jan. 22, 2012, to present flowers to a Mary Lily Flagler re-enactor.
Unfortunately, her health simply wasn’t good enough to allow her to make the trip. So they did the next best thing.
Just before the centennial anniversary, Henry Flagler re-enactor Paul Jellinek went to see Miss Curry at her Coral Gables home.
“About 100 years ago, I understand that you were going to bring flowers to my lovely wife,” said Paul, who visited Miss Curry on his way to the Florida Keys for the centennial anniversary celebration. “You weren’t feeling well (that day), so this day I thought I would bring you some flowers.
Miss Curry can’t quite remember how she felt about missing the honor, but she does remember the anticipation of Jan. 22, 1912, and what it was like to ride the “railroad that went to sea.”
“It was a great occasion and I remember planning it for a long time,” Miss Curry recalled. “We heard about it and watched it since 1909 being built.
She also recalled the experience of riding an Over-Sea Railroad train, especially when it traversed the Bahia Honda bridge.
“It was very exciting, because I looked out the window the whole time while we were on the trestle,” she said. “So it was a wonderful occasion to ride over it.”
Though the meeting between “Henry Flagler” and Miss Curry came 100 years later than originally planned, it was a momentous occasion for both of them.
Paul Jellinek, who is obsessed with the visionary Flagler he portrays, was the most enthusiastic of all.
Over and over, he kept repeating, “I can’t believe I’m seeing someone alive today who was alive when Henry Flagler arrived in Key West.”

Just about 100 years ago, a five-year-old Key West girl was chosen to present a special bouquet of flowers to Henry Flagler’s wife Mary Lily on the day that marked the completion of Flagler’s Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad.

Henry Flagler re-enactor Paul Jellinek reacts to remarks by Lamar Louise Curry. 100 years before their meeting, Curry was to present flowers to Henry Flagler's wife to help mark the completion of Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Henry Flagler re-enactor Paul Jellinek reacts to remarks by 105-year-old Lamar Louise Curry after presenting flowers to her. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Those plans fell through — but a century later, at 105 years old, Lamar Louise Curry finally met “Flagler” and he presented a similar bouquet to her.

The Over-Sea Railroad, a miracle of engineering whose track stretched more than 100 miles out into open water, connected the previously isolated Keys with each other and the Florida mainland for the first time. Its completion has been called the most important single event in Florida Keys history.

On Jan. 22, 1912, when the first Over-Sea Railroad train arrived in Key West from the mainland, thousands of Key Westers greeted Flagler, his wife and other dignitaries. Despite carefully laid plans, however, the young Miss Curry was not among them.

The little girl had eaten peanuts the day before and come down with a terrible stomachache. Her stomach illness (later determined to be a sensitivity to peanuts) caused her to miss the train’s arrival, and the honor of presenting the flowers was given to another young lady.

When the organizers of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad Centennial Celebration found out about Miss Curry — who now lives in Coral Gables, Fla. — they desperately wanted her to come to Key West on Jan. 22, 2012, to present flowers to a Mary Lily Flagler re-enactor.

Miss Curry displays a photograph of herself as a 5-year-old girl -- the age she was when Henry Flagler's Over-Sea Railroad first steamed into Key West.

Miss Curry displays a photograph of herself as a five-year-old girl -- the age she was when Henry Flagler's Over-Sea Railroad first steamed into Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Unfortunately, her health simply wasn’t good enough to allow her to make the trip. So they did the next best thing.

Just before the centennial anniversary, Henry Flagler re-enactor Paul Jellinek went to see Miss Curry at her Coral Gables home.

“About 100 years ago, I understand that you were going to bring flowers to my lovely wife,” said Paul, who visited Miss Curry on his way to the Florida Keys for the centennial anniversary celebration. “You weren’t feeling well (that day), so this day I thought I would bring you some flowers.”

Miss Curry can’t quite remember how she felt about missing the honor, but she does remember the anticipation of Jan. 22, 1912, and what it was like to ride the “railroad that went to sea.”

“It was a great occasion and I remember planning it for a long time,” Miss Curry recalled. “We heard about it and watched it since 1909 being built.”

Mary Lily Flagler holds the flowers presented to her after the first Over-Sea Railroad train arrived in Key West Jan. 22, 1912. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County LIbrary Collection)

Mary Lily Flagler holds the flowers presented to her after the first Over-Sea Railroad train arrived in Key West Jan. 22, 1912. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County LIbrary Collection)

She also recalled the experience of riding an Over-Sea Railroad train, especially when it traversed the Bahia Honda bridge.

“It was very exciting, because I looked out the window the whole time while we were on the trestle,” she said. “So it was a wonderful occasion to ride over it.”

Though the meeting between “Henry Flagler” and Miss Curry came 100 years later than originally planned, it was a momentous occasion for both of them.

Paul Jellinek, who is obsessed with the visionary Flagler he portrays, was the most enthusiastic of all.

Over and over, he kept repeating, “I can’t believe I’m seeing someone alive today who was alive when Henry Flagler arrived in Key West.”

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Flavors of the Florida Keys Await January Visitors

We’re halfway through January and the weather here in Key West has been glorious. After a couple of cool days, we’re back into the 70’s — with shorts, T- shirts, and sandals the appropriate winter wear.

Even Key West canines, like "blog dog" Giulio shown here, have been enjoying the warm January weather. (Photo by Steve Smith)

Even Key West canines, like "blog dog" Giulio shown here, have been enjoying the warm January weather. (Photo by Steve Smith)

We do dress up a bit. On occasion you’ll see us in jeans, cargo shorts, and shirts with collars — and I recently sported my tux jacket with a nice pair of shorts. When you pack for a visit here, remember that you won’t need dinner jackets, ties, or “spit-shined” shoes.

(And if you see the weather in mainland Florida looking cold, remember that Key West is 156 miles southwest of the mainland and we rarely share the same weather — except for the fabled sunshine!)

Key West is known for great eating, as I wrote in my November blog. One of the great upcoming “foodie” events is the third annual Key West Food and Wine Festival, which starts Thursday, Jan. 26, and runs through Sunday, Jan. 29.

The Key West Food and Wine Festival offers innovative cuisine, fine wines and unique island experiences.

The Key West Food and Wine Festival offers innovative cuisine, fine wines and unique island experiences.

This gastronomic celebration offers creative cuisine, premium wines, and unique events only found on our subtropical island.

Kick off the weekend without your shoes or sandals as you join friends for a beach party like nothing you’ve ever attended before. Then play at the historic Key West Aquarium while you sample fine wines and savor delicacies from land and sea. You might spot mermaids, sharks, turtles or indigenous tarpon as you enjoy entertainment by Fancy Pants Entertainment during the “Turtles and Sharks and Mermaids, OH MY! Grand Tasting.”

Chocoholics will experience true bliss when fine organic chocolates are paired with perfect wines during the “Life is a Glass of Chocolate” event at the Lush Bar located at the Green Pineapple on Duval Street.

On Saturday evening, the island’s renowned Duval Street becomes an appetizing avenue during “Duval Uncorked 2012.” The neighborhood’s finest restaurants will be serving samplings of their signature dishes, while the chic boutiques, funky shops and galleries offer wines and hors d’oeuvres. As you stroll you’ll meet Key West’s many personalities and performance artists, and see stellar spectacles.

Stone crabs are a delectable, and renewable, Florida Keys seafood specialty. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Stone crabs are a delectable, and renewable, Florida Keys seafood specialty. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Each day, the festival schedule offers many events, venues, tastes, and experiences to choose among. Take the weekend to stroll the neighborhoods from Bahama Village to the Historic Seaport. Other events include cooking contests, food and wine seminars, and outdoor markets.

Tickets and/or festival VIP passes are needed for the events and are available at the Key West Food and Wine Festival website. There you’ll also find information about participating lodging and comments from previous years’ guests.

If you can’t make the Key West festival, the end of January brings the third annual Stone Crab & Seafood Festival in Key Largo.  Set for Saturday and Sunday, Jan. 28-29, it’s a great family event featuring local seafood, live musical entertainment, cooking demonstrations, and fun for the kids too!  Key Largo is a short trip from mainland Florida down the recently completed 18-Mile Stretch.

So tantalize your palate, and have the time of your life at one or both of these fabulous festivals. After all, there’s nothing more delicious than the flavors of the Florida Keys.

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