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Keys Marathon

Where the Ocean is Your Classroom

What’s your definition of family time? For many parents and kids who visit the Florida Keys, it means sharing a soft-adventure learning vacation with the ocean as their classroom. The Keys are a great place for families to try new watersports — acquiring skills in as little as two days or embracing the ultimate experience on a weeklong adventure.

Intrepid angler Maria Newman fights her "prey" under the direction of Ladies, Let's Go Fishing founder Betty Bauman. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, parents and kids can learn (or improve upon) angling skills by teaming up with a professional fishing captain for a private charter. Or they can join a group for a party-boat fishing experience, where almost everyone scores a food fish or two.

Grandmas, moms and daughters can enjoy friendly mentoring together during the annual Ladies, Let’s Go Fishing! seminar and tournament in the Upper Keys. The hands-on weekend introduces female anglers to offshore, inshore, bottom and fly-fishing tackle and techniques in a nonintimidating atmosphere. (It’s been dubbed the “no yelling school of fishing” for its supportive philosophy.)

Female anglers of all ages train with fishing tackle and tools — practicing spincasting, throwing a cast net, tying knots, boat handling, backing a trailer and even gaffing a grapefruit. One of the most popular experiences is learning to reel against pressure — with an unsuspecting male playing the role of a hooked fish.

The 2012 Keys session just took place, so it’s a great time to book a spot for 2013.

Families can catch the breeze -- and the skills required to be safe and savvy sailors -- at Florida Keys Sailing Academy in Islamorada. (Photo courtesy of Florida Keys Sailing Academy)

More interested in catching a breeze than catching a fish? Then chart a course for family sailing lessons — many targeting novices who want to experience on-the-water training. Basic through advanced cruising, live-aboard cruises and charters are offered in Keys waters.

For example, consider training aboard the Cour Volant, a 2002 Jeanneau SO40 built in France, at Islamorada’s Florida Keys Sailing Academy. Offerings range from one-day mate classes to weekend cruising refresher courses and three-day basic keelboat classes that explore sail theory and safety at sea.

After completing the course, students can safely and comfortably take a 25- to 30-foot boat out day sailing. Also popular among “maiden” voyagers are the academy’s classes taught by women for women.

Want to be IN the water instead of ON it? Learning to scuba dive is increasingly popular among family groups. The calm, clear waters surrounding the Keys, which parallel the continental United States’ only living coral barrier reef, provide the perfect learning environment for parents and kids — as well as a lifetime of diving fun, adventure and memories.

Pool classes offer a way to get comfortable with equipment and techniques before diving into the ocean environment. (Photo courtesy of Hall's Diving Center)

Believe it or not, kids as young as 10 years old can learn to be junior scuba divers. And getting your scuba certification opens the door to fascinating pursuits like discovering underwater photography or treasure hunting — or even career choices like marine biology or underwater archeology.

You can dive into everything from introductory one-day courses through open-water certification classes with three to five days of training covering concepts such as basic physics and physiology, ocean waves, marine life and monitoring time and depth during a dive. That’s followed by pool and open-water dives at the reef, where you’ll be immersed in bright colors and surrounded by a variety of reef fish and marine life.

No matter what watersports pursuit piques your interest, learning new skills or expanding your knowledge can be fun when the ocean is your classroom. Why not bring your family down to the Keys and see for yourself?

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Dive into Amazing Florida Keys Trail of Sunken Ships

If you’re an underwater enthusiast or history lover, you’ll likely be fascinated by a one-of-a-kind trail that parallels the Florida Keys. Called the Florida Keys Shipwreck Trail, it’s a line of shipwreck sites from Key Largo to Key West.

Divers examine the intentionally scuttled 327-foot former U.S. Coast Guard cutter Duane in 120 feet of water off Key Largo. (Photo by Stephen Frink, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Established by the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, it encourages an appreciation and understanding of the Keys’ maritime heritage — and provides intriguing exploration for both snorkelers and divers.

You’ll find centuries-old wrecks, including a Spanish vessel from the 1700s, plus modern cargo and military ships that were intentionally sunk to create artificial reefs. Resting at depths from 14 to well over 100 feet, they’re now home to countless varieties of coral and fish in the sanctuary’s federally protected waters.

What vessels can you explore along the Florida Keys Shipwreck Trail?

KEY LARGO:

Off the coast in 25 feet of water is City of Washington, a two-masted sailing vessel used for passenger transport and cargo trade between New York, Cuba and Mexico. It sank July 10, 1892.

Key Largo's massive Spiegel Grove (bow shown here) draws dive aficionados from all over the world.

Benwood, a merchant marine freighter, lies in 25 to 45 feet of water. It sank in 1942 after colliding with another vessel. Both were traveling without lights as a precaution during World War II blackout conditions.

Duane, in 120 feet of water, was named for Secretary of the Treasury William Duane, who served under Andrew Jackson. It was sunk as an artificial reef Nov. 27, 1987.

ISLAMORADA:

San Pedro, a member of Spain’s 1733 treasure fleet, is the shipwreck trail’s oldest wreck. It’s located off Indian Key in just 18 feet of water. FYI, early shipwreck salvors called wreckers inhabited Indian Key in the early 1800s, finding it a convenient haven midway along the Keys — and a safe harbor in bad weather.

Eagle, a cargo transporter, was sunk as an artificial reef in 1985. It lies off Lower Matecumbe Key in 110 feet of water.

MARATHON:

The three-masted bark Adelaide Baker, also called the Conrad, lies south of Duck Key in 20 feet of water.

Divers can see the Thunderbolt wreck in its entirety during one dive, with visibility up to 100 feet. (Photo courtesy of Hall's Dive Center & International Career Institute)

A wreck believed to be North America lies in 14 feet of water on Delta Shoals east of Sombrero Light. This vessel was lost Nov. 25, 1842, while carrying dry goods and furniture.

Thunderbolt was donated to the Florida Keys Artificial Reef Association by Florida Power and Light Co., which bought it in 1961 to use in researching electrical energy and lightning strikes (thereby inspiring its name). Thunderbolt was intentionally sunk March 6, 1986, in 120 feet of water four miles south of Marathon.

KEY WEST:

Amesbury, built for military combat, is better known as Alexander’s Wreck. The former destroyer escort is broken into two sections that lie 200 yards apart, five miles west of Key West in 25 feet of water. 

ARTIFICIAL REEFS:

The Adolphus Busch, shown here at its sinking, offers divers a remarkable opportunity for exploration off the Lower Keys. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

As well as the vessels of the shipwreck heritage trail, three artificial reefs sunk in the sanctuary in recent years beckon divers and snorkelers from around the world.

Spiegel Grove, a 510-foot Navy landing ship dock, is the third-largest ship ever intentionally sunk to create a new reef for divers. Sunk in May 2002, it’s positioned about six miles off Key Largo in 130 feet of water. Divers recently celebrated the 10th anniversary of its scuttling, and it remains one the Keys’ most intriguing sites.

West of Looe Key in the Lower Keys lies the 210-foot freighter Adolphus Busch Senior. Since Dec. 5, 1998, divers have been exploring this artificial reef approximately five miles southwest of Big Pine Key.

The second-largest vessel intentionally sunk as an artificial reef is the 524-foot General Hoyt S. Vandenberg. The decommissioned Air Force ship once tracked space launches off Florida — and “starred” as a Russian science ship in the 1999 film “Virus.”

Divers explore the superstructure of the Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg artificial reef in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary off Key West. (Photo by Haig Jacobs, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In May 2009, Vandenberg was sunk about seven miles off Key West. The bottom of its hull rests on sand in depths averaging 145 feet, but its superstructure begins about 45 feet below the surface.

Only a few ships in Florida Keys waters carried gold or other rich cargoes. But from Spanish galleons to vessels more recently sunk as artificial reefs, they all offer treasures for today’s divers and snorkelers: prized and colorful marine life and a unique glimpse into history.

 

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Driving the Florida Keys: A Scenic Delight

Scenic drives abound throughout the U.S., and I’ve traveled many of them — through the Great Smoky Mountains and up the California coast among them. But my hands-down favorite is the Florida Keys’ Overseas Highway.

The amazing Overseas Highway stretches over 42 bridges and offers breathtaking vistas of open water. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

With its 42 bridges connecting key to key, the highway offers breathtaking views of both the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico. It’s hard to keep my eyes on the road with beautiful blue water stretching to the horizon on both sides.

Though I’m an active senior, I like to take it easy on longer drives. And the Overseas Highway provides plenty of chances to meander and explore. From Key Largo and its colorful building painted by marine life artist Wyland, to the end of the road in Key West, you’ll find things to see all along the road.

Husband Joe and I made several trips to the Keys before becoming full-time residents, so we visited many different attractions, eateries, and places we wanted to check out.

For example, I’ve enjoyed many meals at Gus’ Grille at the Marriott in Key Largo. Sitting on the second floor overlooking the water, sampling fresh seafood, is a real treat. But then, I could eat my way down the Keys!

The African Queen is the original vessel from director John Huston's classic film by the same name. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Speaking of Key Largo, I well recall watching the 1950s film, “The African Queen,” with Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn. The boat that “starred” in the film is home-ported at the Holiday Inn in Key Largo. As well as seeing her, now that she has undergone extensive renovations you can take a 90-minute cruise on her.

Heading on down the Keys, one of our regular stops was the Rain Barrel in Islamorada. This artisans’ village features sculpture, jewelry, paintings on coral, stained glass and more — much of it by local artists. A stroll through the Rain Barrel always showed us something new and made us marvel at the talents of others (since ours certainly didn’t lie in the art world!).

I also love browsing through the fishing and sports gear, clothes and accessories at Islamorada’s World Wide Sportsman. Here’s another place that offers a perfect view of the Gulf — and the shoreside restaurant is a great place to watch the water and savor casual Keys dishes.

Mandy Rodriguez, the guiding spirit behind Dolphin Research Center, enjoys a swim with a couple of good buddies. (Photo courtesy of DRC)

Interested in joining dolphins in the water? Your drive down the Keys will take you past Grassy Key’s Dolphin Research Center at Mile Marker 59 — and you can plan ahead and book time for a swim with these wonderful creatures of the sea. Even if you can’t swim with them, stop at the center for a tour and learn fascinating information about dolphins, sea lions and other marine creatures.

Incidentally, while you’re in the Grassy Key and Marathon area, consider a stop at Marathon’s Keys Fisheries for a world-class Gulf view and Keys seafood.

Leaving Marathon, you’ll travel across the Seven Mile Bridge — by far the longest of the Keys’ 42 bridges, offering panoramic views of endless blue water and tiny uninhabited islands. The bridge is closed for half a day each year so 1,500 runners can compete in the famed Seven Mile Bridge Run.

In the Lower Keys, take a detour out Key Deer Boulevard on Big Pine Key to the Key Deer Refuge. There, if you’re lucky, you’ll glimpse tiny Key deer indigenous to the area, roaming the refuge that provides a safe environment for them.

A Key deer doe licks her chops after grazing on a plant. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Once past Big Pine Key, begin looking up (passengers only, please!). On a clear day you’ll spot a large white blimp, locally known as “Fat Albert.” Albert is tethered to a base on Cudjoe Key and is part of the NORAD surveillance system. Every time we drove down the Keys, if Fat Albert was up there, we knew all was well with the world.

Further along, on Lower Sugarloaf Key at Mile Market 17, is the site of the Bat Tower. This peculiar structure was built in 1929 by Lower Keys landowner Richter Clyde Perky, who thought he could house bats there to eat marauding mosquitoes. His plan was a failure, but his tower still attracts curious visitors.

Now you’re almost at the end of the road — literally. The Overseas Highway goes through Key West until it reaches Mile Marker 0, in front of the courthouse. And hasn’t it been a beautiful drive?

 

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Discover Wyland’s Keyswide Art Adventure Oct. 12-21

In 2007, crowds of people watched internationally acclaimed marine life artist Wyland create a massive panoramic mural showcasing the Florida Keys’ underwater world. Located at the gateway to the Keys in Key Largo, the 7,500-square-foot mural wrapped around all four sides of a four-story building at mile marker 99.2, in the median of the Keys’ Overseas Highway.

Marine life artist Wyland takes a break after putting finishing touches on his 7,500-square-foot marine life mural in Key Largo. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

From Oct. 12-21, the artist and environmental advocate who lives in the Upper Keys is planning to do something even bigger.

Wyland, who credits the Keys reefs with inspiring much of his world-renowned marine life artistry, will spend 10 days restoring and repainting his three monumental outdoor murals along the island chain.

All three depict marine creatures that inhabit the continental United States’ only living coral barrier reef, which parallels the Keys — and he created all three to increase awareness of that vibrant ecosystem and motivate people to preserve and protect it.

As well as Key Largo, Wyland’s murals can be found midway down the island chain in Marathon (mile marker 50), and in Key West’s Historic Seaport (201 William St.).

Wyland portrays the Keys reef environment on traditional canvases and in large-scale outdoor murals. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Join him to watch and enjoy the restoration project Oct. 12-14 in Key Largo, Oct. 16-17 in Marathon and Oct. 18-21 in Key West.

“We want to inspire the public to see the beauty of the Florida waters and the Florida Keys in particular through public art, and we want to restore those murals so they will continue to inspire,” explained Wyland, who volunteers his time to create his public art murals.

(The paint, by the way, is being donated by the Dunn Edwards Corporation, which deserves many kudos for supporting such a worthy environmental project.)

Watching Wyland paint is fascinating since he works freehand, confidently outlining massive marine creatures with sweeping lines and then layering color and adding detail. Yet observing him at work isn’t the only attraction for visitors to the mural sites.

At each site, you can explore the Wyland Clean Water Mobile Learning Experience (the Wyland Foundation’s interactive science center on wheels), discover the artist’s recent paintings and sculptures in a traveling gallery, and even hear live music from members of the Wyland Blues Planet Band.

Wyland details the eye of a manatee during the creation of his Key Largo mural. (Photo by Gary Firstenberg)

“What I’m planning is to bring the Wyland experience — the art, the conservation, the community — together,” Wyland explained. “We’re inviting everyone to join us to bring the message of conservation, with the goal of inspiring people to be ambassadors for the planet.”

Wyland himself has been an ambassador for the planet throughout his career. He uses his art to encourage people to protect the world’s oceans, waterways and marine life — and notables from scientist Jane Goodall to former U.N. Secretary General Kofi Annan have lauded his environmental commitment.

A member of the International Scuba Diving Hall of Fame, Wyland has spent nearly 30 years diving and observing underwater life in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary.

“It is one of the premiere dive destinations on the planet,” he said, “and the beauty that I see in the Florida Keys is reflected in my paintings, sculptures and murals.”

Wyland's environmental efforts focus on protecting and preserving the world's oceans. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In addition, the artist often gets involved in the community. On Saturday, Oct. 13, he’ll be master of ceremonies at the grand re-opening luau for Snook’s Bayside in Key Largo. Destroyed in a fire and subsequently rebuilt, the local landmark will welcome old and new patrons for an evening of fun, food, and frolic.

A few days later, Oct. 18, Wyland will host a screening of his documentary, “Blues Planet: Sounds,” at Key West’s Tennessee Williams Theatre. He’ll also create sumi brush art, with proceeds from its sale benefiting the local college’s Wyland Marine Science Scholarship Fund.

As if that wasn’t enough, he’s taking his Clean Water Mobile Learning Experience to the Lower Keys’ popular Boondocks Oct. 20-21 for a high-energy gathering featuring live music and art.

Wyland invites everyone who loves the oceans to join him in the Florida Keys to be part of his 10-day art-and-environment experience. Don’t miss it!

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Alaska to Key West 
 on a Bicycle????

The recent (and sadly unsuccessful) attempts by athletes Penny Palfrey and Diana Nyad to swim from Cuba to the Florida Keys remind me of another marathon journey — a triumphantly successful one — that ended in Key West.

Bob Voris dips his bike tires into the Atlantic after ending his 6,300-mile trek at Key West's Southernmost Point. (Photo by Tony Gregory, Florida Keys News Bureau)

This trek took place in 2005 and, admittedly, was attempted on land instead of water. The athlete who accomplished it was a 55-year-old Alaskan middle school teacher.

Actually, when Bob Voris pedaled his bicycle up to Key West’s Southernmost Point marker on Aug. 20, 2005, he looked like any other visitor eager to have his photo snapped at the southernmost spot in the continental United States.

But for Bob, a resident of Eagle River, Alaska, the arrival meant much more than a photo opportunity — it meant he had completed an approximately 6,300-mile ride that began in Homer, Alaska, to raise funds for the American Cancer Society.

A long-distance cycling enthusiast whose previous accomplishments included participating in a Race Across America event, Bob began his “End of the Road for Cancer” cross-continental ride June 10. His trip was inspired in part by the loss of his younger brother to leukemia and other family members’ struggles against cancer.

Bob's journey through the Keys took him the entire length of the amazing Overseas Highway. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

He chose Key West as his destination both because he enjoyed visiting the island in the 1970s and because it’s about as far as he could ride from Homer.

“I started at one end (of the continent) and will finish at the other,” he said after crossing the Florida state line. “And hopefully cancer will see its end of the road before too long.”

Unlike long-distance walkers or bikers who travel with friends or support vehicles, Bob decided to make his trek alone — because, he said, battling cancer is essentially a solo journey.

His arrival in Key West, however, was anything but solo. He was greeted at the Southernmost Point by local American Cancer Society representatives and cancer survivors — as well as Aaron Coenen, who completed an Alaska-to-Key-West fundraising bike trek just a day before Bob’s finish.

After pedaling an almost identical route, Bob and Aaron meet for the first time -- incredibly -- at the Southernmost Point. (Photo by Gerry Goradesky, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Aaron, at that time a 22-year-old engineering student who lived in Milwaukee, dedicated his bike marathon to raising money for the Lance Armstrong Foundation for cancer research and education. An admirer of the multi-year Tour de France winner, he was motivated in part by his grandmother’s fight against cancer and Armstrong’s own battle.

Unlikely as it sounds, Bob and Aaron completed their separate Alaska-to-Key-West fundraising rides, and arrived just over 24 hours apart, without once encountering each other on the road.

“We were really surprised that we didn’t cross paths,” Aaron admitted. “We definitely wouldn’t have missed each other if we’d been on the same stretch of road at any point.”

Bob visited family members and friends along his route, some of them cancer survivors or fighting the disease, as well as meeting cancer patients at hospitals.

So where did Bob go to celebrate his marathon achievement? Key West's legendary Sloppy Joe's, of course. (Photo courtesy of Sloppy Joe's Bar)

So where did Bob go to celebrate his marathon achievement? Key West's legendary Sloppy Joe's, of course! (Photo courtesy of Sloppy Joe's Bar).

In addition to raising money, he collected more than 80 signatures of cancer survivors on a rain jacket he carried.

Bob began his ride by dipping the rear wheel of his bicycle into the waters of Alaska’s Kachemak Bay.

His journey officially ended when, beside Key West’s Southernmost Point, he dipped his wheels into the warm subtropical Atlantic.

Then (like any ordinary out-of-towner visiting the island city), he headed for the landmark watering hole known as Sloppy Joe’s Bar to celebrate his arrival.

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Marathon’s Turtle Hospital — an Amazing ‘Retirement’ Project

Ageism is pretty much nonexistent in the Florida Keys. An 80-year-old can be fast friends with a 35-year-old, and the two can work together side by side in any number of occupations. And speaking of working, the concept of retirement means something different in the Keys than it does in most places.

Sea turtles find help and healing in the Keys -- at the acclaimed Turtle Hospital, founded by Richie Moretti (far right). (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

An outstanding example of a project that burgeoned after so-called retirement is The Turtle Hospital in Marathon. This is the only licensed veterinary hospital in the world that’s dedicated to the treatment of sea turtles. And it was established by a man who, though he wasn’t a senior, had earned the right (and the wherewithal) to retire in the Keys.

His name is Richie Moretti, and he came to the Keys after a successful career spent restoring Volkswagens. Since then, his so-called retirement has kept him busier than ever pursuing a passion and benefiting the ocean environment.

When he arrived in the Keys, Richie bought a small motel in Marathon and began filling its saltwater-fed pool with fish and other marine creatures. He quickly became intrigued with sea turtles, and established The Turtle Hospital in 1986 to care for and rehabilitate sick and injured turtles.

Former President Jimmy Carter (left) grins delightedly as he holds a juvenile green sea turtle at Marathon's Turtle Hospital. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Turtles can be injured by being struck by boat propellers, getting tangled up in fishing line and trap ropes, or ingesting fishhooks or other non-digestible materials. They are also subject to diseases such as lockjaw, which makes it impossible for them to open their mouths to eat, or tumors that can cover their shells and even their eyes.

Species of sea turtles treated at The Turtle Hospital include loggerhead, green, hawksbill, and Kemp’s Ridley. Antibiotics, diet, surgery, careful nurturing — you name it, a sick or injured turtle gets it all at The Turtle Hospital.

Believe it or not, this unique hospital even has its own ambulance for transporting patients.

When a turtle has recovered sufficiently, it is taken to the waters it came from and carefully released to swim away. Former President Jimmy Carter assisted in one release.

Those that can’t be released remain at The Turtle Hospital for the rest of their days.

Richie (center) displays a proclamation honoring The Turtle Hospital on its 25th anniversary. Shown with him are Florida Keys Mayor David Rice and County Commissioner Heather Carruthers. (Photo by Larry Benvenuti, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In addition to caring for the sea turtles, The Turtle Hospital is an educational facility. Guided tours are offered daily for people eager to learn more about the hospital and its occupants, and visitors of all ages have come to view the facility.

In 2011, The Turtle Hospital celebrated its 25th anniversary of caring for sea turtles. The county honored the occasion by designating Sept. 24 “Richie Moretti and The Turtle Hospital Day.”

What more could a man ask for than to be honored for his second career that’s also his passion?

Richie Moretti may be an unusual “retiree,” but he’s far from the only one who has embarked on a new life and second career in the Florida Keys. I’ll introduce more of them in upcoming blogs.

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You Belong in the Keys if 


Let’s face it — there are some people who simply belong in the Florida Keys. Take me, for example. I was a naïve 20-year-old Minnesota girl when I first arrived in the island chain, taking a break from college and fleeing a sub-zero February.

Jimmy Buffett, the Keys' "pirate laureate," waves to some 3,500 "Parrot Head" fans during a 2011 surprise concert on Key West's Duval Street. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

I had only seen the ocean once before, and evergreens were a far more familiar sight than palm trees. Yet after just 48 hours in the Keys, I called my mother and told her to send my belongings — I had found my home and, mercifully, was smart enough to recognize the fact.

My story is absolutely not unique. Again and again, you’ll hear variations on the same theme. People come down for a vacation, a temporary job, a visit with an island-dwelling friend — and become mesmerized by some indefinable magic about the Keys that makes them unwilling or unable to leave.

So how can you tell if you’re among the lucky few that belong in the island chain? After 30 years of living here, I can offer a few tips. And if more than three or four of the following apply to you, you might as well start considering relocation — because sooner or later, that magic will sneak up on you and you’ll be powerless to resist.

Even Al Roker of the "Today" show, shown here at right during a live broadcast in the Keys, learned why Howard Livingston (left) penned "Blame It On the Margaritas." (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

1. You know all the words to at least four Jimmy Buffett songs and at least two by Howard Livingston. Buffett, the Keys’ “pirate laureate,” took inspiration for anthems like “Margaritaville” from his Key West days in the 70s and early 80s. And Howard, a Lower Keys resident whose Mile Marker 24 Band is a trop rock favorite, penned the equally meaningful “Blame it on the Margaritas.”

2. You have a strange urge to celebrate the nightly setting of the sun. In Key West, the nightly sunset is an excuse for a combination carnival and street party at Mallory Square overlooking Key West Harbor. With lively street performers and vendors selling creative handmade wares, it’s a happening that can’t be missed.

3. You can actually make a sound when blowing through a conch shell. Blowing the conch “horn” is a Keys tradition that dates back to the shipwreck salvagers of the early 1800s. Today, there’s an annual conch shell blowing contest in Key West — and a group of Key Largo denizens recently attempted to break a world record for the largest number of people “conch honking” simultaneously.

Captain Finbar Gittelman, a master seafarer with a roguish sense of humor, is the builder and skipper of the Schooner Wolf. (Photo by Rob O'Neal)

4. You’ve met Captain Tony. Or Captain Finbar. Or Captain Richard Stanczyk. Or all three of them. All three are Keys icons renowned for their storytelling as well as their other talents. Tony was the owner of Key West’s legendary Captain Tony’s Saloon, while Finbar skippers the majestic Schooner Wolf and reigns as admiral of the Conch Republic Navy. And Islamorada fishing captain Richard Stanczyk is world-renowned as one of the pioneers of daytime swordfishing.

5. You’ve eaten a Lobster Reuben at Keys Fisheries, hogfish at the Hogfish and breakfast with the roosters at Blue Heaven. Once you’ve sampled the renowned Lobster Reuben at Marathon’s waterfront Keys Fisheries, you’ll never crave a corned-beef Reuben again. Hogfish, caught only by spearfishing divers, is a light white fish best enjoyed at its namesake eatery. And Blue Heaven’s breakfasts? Savored in a funky open-air courtyard while semi-tame poultry scurry nearby, they’re simply beyond compare.

6. Every time you arrive in the Keys, your everyday stresses seem a little less important and you find yourself smiling. Need I say more? If this is true in your case, you might as well start packing 
 because the chances are awfully good that you, like me, simply belong here.

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Art, Writing, Theater, Music: Culture Colors the Keys

In the mid-1930s, the Florida Keys — like most of America — were reeling from the Great Depression. That’s when Florida Governor Julius Stone, and the Federal Emergency Relief Administration, coordinated an influx of artists and writers to paint murals, write guidebooks, teach craft classes and help turn the area into an attractive vacation destination. And guess what? It worked.

Artists are drawn to the Keys for the colorful natural vistas and abundant tropical light.

Today, the Keys’ creative and cultural community is more vibrant and varied than Stone ever could have imagined. Writers are drawn by the offbeat, laidback atmosphere and wealth of quirky tales. Musicians and actors find appreciative Keys audiences. And artists are enthralled by the ever-changing tropical light and the engaging people and places around almost every corner.

Looking for the work of artists and artisans? You can find it literally from one end of the Keys to the other. Galleries abound, filled with oils and watercolors, sculpture, Haitian primitives, collage, pottery, handcrafted jewelry, wood carving, stained and blown glass, metalwork, acrylics and fine crafts.

And they’re all different. Some galleries specialize in tropically themed pieces, some are co-ops run by the artists themselves, and others are gallery/studios where you can meet the artists and watch them work.

Islamorada artist Michelle Lowe displays a piece she designed for the Morada Way Art Walk, a lively event held the third Thursday of each month.

Plus you can enjoy regular gallery strolls and art walks — particularly in Key West’s historic Old Town and Islamorada’s flourishing Morada Way Arts & Cultural District.

On top of that, the Keys offer a rich calendar of art and crafts shows. Whether they’re juried exhibitions of fine art or colorful craft extravaganzas, they draw creative spirits from the Keys and other areas. One of the best is the Pigeon Key Art Festival, held in Marathon each February and named for a tiny island beneath the Old Seven Mile Bridge.

But you don’t have to venture into a gallery or go to an art show to spot engaging local creations. Outdoor art can be seen throughout the Keys, whether it’s murals celebrating the underwater world or sculptures in public places.

Hemingway's former Whitehead Street home (with resident cats) is sometimes called the heart of Key West's literary heritage. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In Key West, of course, the creative atmosphere centers around a rich literary heritage. Tennessee Williams owned a home on the island from 1949 until his death, Robert Frost was a regular visitor and Ernest Hemingway wrote some of his best works during his decade-long residence.

Every July, Key West hosts a festival celebrating Hemingway’s life and work — and his former Whitehead Street home is open for tours.

But icons like Hemingway and Williams were only the beginning.  Key West’s literary community — which has sheltered Pulitzer Prize winners and notables ranging from Elizabeth Bishop to Judy Blume — is as lively today as it was during Hemingway’s era. And each January, the famed Key West Literary Seminar draws writers like Amy Tan, Frank McCourt and Joyce Carol Oates to discuss their craft in front of a spellbound audience.

The Waterfront Playhouse, like theaters throughout the Keys, wows crowds with professional offerings and talented actors. (Photo courtesy of the Waterfront Playhouse)

You’ll find performing arts from Key West to Key Largo. The Keys are home to a number of theaters and community theater groups, many with long and lively histories. The talent pool is truly incredible — ranging from skilled locals to visiting pros who take part in full-book musicals, dramas, sidesplitting comedies and more.

And music? After enjoying the melodic sounds of tropical breezes and waves washing ashore, check out other sources of top-flight musical entertainment: Impromptu Classical Concerts of Key West, the fabulous Key West Songwriter’s Festival, the Florida Keys Concert Association, Islamorada Community Entertainment and many, many more.

In other words, the Florida Keys might be known for their world-class diving and fishing, mellow atmosphere and balmy climate — but their place as a haven for creative spirits can’t be denied. Founded on the legacies of Ernest Hemingway and Julius Stone, the cultural scene is a vital element in the Keys’ exuberant appeal.

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What’s in a Name? In Marathon, Plenty!

Marathon may lie more-or-less at the midpoint of the road leading through the Florida Keys, but when it comes to wonderfully offbeat place names, it’s anything BUT middle of the road.

Marathon's name supposedly comes from a complaint made by railroad workers building the Old Seven Mile Bridge (right). (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Recognized as the boating destination of the Keys, Marathon is made up of a colorful group of small islands named Boot, Knights, Hog, Vaca, Stirrup, Crawl and Little Crawl keys — plus East and West Sister’s Island, Deer and Fat Deer keys, Long Pine and Grassy keys.

The area of Marathon itself got its name from workers constructing the monumental Over-Sea Railroad from mainland Florida throughout the Keys in the early 1900s. Laboring night and day to meet the grueling construction schedule, workers reputedly complained, “This is getting to be a real Marathon!”

Speaking of names, consider the monikers of some area eateries — like the Stuffed Pig and the Barracuda Grill — as well as dive shops like Captain Hook’s, Daffy Doug’s exuberant retail emporium, and fishing charterboats like Captain Dave Schugar’s Sweet E’Nuf. They’re all great examples of the fun-loving spirit that characterizes the Marathon area.

Marathon's lively Stuffed Pig has a colorful name and a loyal following for its food and atmosphere. (Photo courtesy of the Stuffed Pig)

These days, however, Marathon is focused on street names — looking to the past for the original appellations that contributed to the region’s rich heritage and character. Here, in an article in the Keynoter newspaper, Keys writer Ryan McCarthy explains why the old is new again on the street signs of Marathon.

Not many Marathon residents could tell you if they live on Tipton Lane, Vaca Road, Pearce Street or any number of other thoroughfares throughout the city.

Those and many other Middle Keys road names were changed many years ago in favor of a numbered system — Tipton is now 46th Street, Vaca Road is 50th Street and Pearce Street is 50th Court.

But the city of Marathon is embracing its history as it replaces out-of-date signs throughout the city. At the bottom of each sign, in small lettering, is the official name of each road as long-time residents might remember it.

Many of Marathon's street signs now include the thoroughfares' original names, recalling the area's rich history. (Photo courtesy of the Florida Keys Keynoter)

One of those residents, Mike Puto, remembers that time well. He said putting the original street names on each sign is a nice touch.

“My hat’s off to whoever came through with it. It’s kind of neat to have that; it brings in the history of the area,” he said.

Puto said he remembers when streets all over the city — then in unincorporated Monroe County — were named after founding families. That includes the Putos, Sadowskis and Schmitts. Sylvia Avenue, named after Puto’s mother, still exists off 107th Street.

“You gotta love it,” he said. “That’s how the town was back then.”

City Planning Director George Garrett said landowners years ago named their own streets.

Marathon's modern-day landmarks include the acclaimed Turtle Hospital, where sea turtles find help and healing. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

“All of these streets have names that come with their original plats and actually, we’ve got a list of the street names and I’ve gone back through for the purposes of doing my GIS maps,” he said.

Garrett said most of the plats were established in the late 1950s and ’60s.

“I think it was a way of getting a historic feel and it kind of personalizes the city. Numbered streets are impersonal to a certain degree,” he said.

Garrett said street-sign standards have changed over the years, such as a federal requirement to use reflective paint on them.

“Regardless, the [City Council] had expressed an interest in changing them out. They want a consistent look and appearance,” he said.

However, don’t think about using the old street names to send mail: The U.S. Postal Service doesn’t have those names in its database.

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Plan Now to Savor Keys Summer

When I moved to Key West 25 years ago, the summers were a quiet time when we did our renovations, took our vacations, and invited our families to visit. However, these days summer — which, believe it or not, is just around the corner — doesn’t bring a “slow season” at all.

A wacky race of decorated beds is part of the Conch Republic celebrations each spring. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Instead, there are special events all summer long. We still take a holiday or two and have company, but we save plenty of time to enjoy the fun things our island city offers.

For example, this coming weekend begins the 30th annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration. If you plan to visit between April 20 and April 29, be sure to review the schedule of events and take part in our over-the-top celebration of the Florida Keys’ independent, irreverent nature.

And did you know Key West has its own version of American Idol? It’s called Aqua Idol, and its current “season” benefits the Key West Business Guild. Every Tuesday we gather at the landmark Aqua from 6:30 to 8 p.m. as talented local singers battle it out on the stage.

Currently six people remain in the competition, and there are three more weeks of fun before the winner is announced. Stop in and see some fine local singing talent, throw a buck or two in the tip buckets, and support your favorite star or star-to-be!

Key West's Pride celebrations are a highlight of the island's summer season. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Business Guild)

Key West's Pride celebrations are a highlight of the island's summer season. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Business Guild)

Recently travel writer Troy Petenbrink gave a shout-out to Key West’s summer events and to our fun new summer video. “Key West is Contagious” screamed the headline of Washington DC’s MetroWeekly column “Elsewhere —Travel with a Twist.”

Check it out — you may see some friends, or even your own picture, in this short piece. Troy’s article also contains web links to Key West Pride, Tropical Heat, and Womenfest that will be useful when you plan your next visit.

Speaking of the Key West Business Guild, the organization is approaching its 35th year. From its inception, the guild’s mission was to promote Key West and its gay and allied businesses. Many local events were started by the guild and then passed to other non-profit organizations to operate and benefit from. These days, the guild produces Key West Pride, Tropical Heat, Womenfest and — for 30 years — the Fantasy Fest Headdress Ball, which will be held this year on Tuesday, Oct. 23.

On Key West's gay trolley tour, passengers learn about the island city's LGBT sites, history and highlights.

Recently I worked with the American Airlines public relations department and a film crew as they shot video for Key West’s Milestone video. Milestone videos are available on the AA.com website and are promoted to more than 60 million members of the Aadvantage frequent flyer program.

The Key West video showcases some favorite things to do on the island and in the other Florida Keys. Watching it encourages viewers to take a tour of writer Ernest Hemingway’s home, travel on the gay trolley tour past Pulitzer Prize winner Tennessee Williams’ home, experience deep-sea fishing offshore, visit historic Fort Jefferson in Dry Tortugas National Park, and meet some friendly dolphins at Dolphin Research Center on Grassy Key.

So if you find yourself craving a Keys or Key West vacation this summer, don’t try to resist. Simply surrender, make your travel plans, and look for me when you get here.

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