For decades, I’ve been a passionate fan of mystery books. As a child, I savored the adventures of Nancy Drew. Later I discovered Agatha Christie’s Hercule Poirot and Jane Marple, Mary Roberts Rinehart’s heroines driven to untangle family crimes, and Dorothy Sayers’ debonair Lord Peter Wimsey.

The inaugural Key West Mystery Fest promises dastardly deeds, a world-premiere play and clues galore.

These days, I track evil-doers in turn-of-the-century Egypt with Elizabeth Peters’ archaeologist detective Amelia Peabody, and photograph crime scenes in my beloved Key West with Alex Rutledge, the protagonist of former Keys resident Tom Corcoran. When I turn on the TV, it’s to investigate criminal behavior alongside the offbeat “Monk” or shadow Sherlock Holmes through the cobblestoned streets of London.

Much to my delight, I’ve discovered that a number of really good mystery writers live in Key West. Among them are Kate Collins, whose amateur sleuth owns a flower shop, and Michael Haskins, author of the “Mad Mick” Murphy thrillers.

Even better, the Waterfront Playhouse is staging an event tailor-made for mystery lovers like me — the inaugural Key West Mystery Fest, set for May 4-13 and featuring these stellar authors and more. Its star is one of the most intriguing mystery writers alive today: Hy Conrad, writer/producer of the wonderful crime series “Monk.”

Mystery writers Michael Haskins (left) and Tom Corcoran are captured on camera at Key West Island Books, a popular literary hotspot on the island.

The festival’s centerpiece is the world premiere of Hy’s mystery play “Home Exchange” at the Waterfront Playhouse next to Mallory Square. By the way, this multi-talented Key Wester is not only a successful mystery author and the mastermind behind “Monk” — he also writes and produces the hit television series “White Collar.”

The suspenseful script of “Home Exchange” explores what happens when two Americans swap houses with a British couple, and quickly become convinced they’ve stumbled on a murder plot — and that the British husband will soon become a victim.

The delicious drama will be performed through May 26, and its Mystery Fest run includes a May 5 post-performance party at the Historic Key West Sculpture Garden beside the playhouse.

Get a "clue" at the festival's deliciously mysterious progressive dinner.

Detective wannabes can also investigate the “Crime Scene Photographer” interactive solve-it-yourself puzzler set for May 4 at Casa Antigua — a fittingly mysterious structure that was author Ernest Hemingway’s first Key West address.

I’m definitely planning to savor the festival’s three-stage progressive dinner in the elegant Truman Annex enclave. Guests are invited to dress as their favorite character from the board game “Clue” — and the menu features a dastardly murder to solve.

On May 10, Hy Conrad and another “Monk” celebrity, creator Andy Breckman, will host “Monk Night” at the island’s Tropic Cinema. The duo plans to explain how the Emmy Award-winning show was created, written and produced — AND screen some of their favorite clips.

The world premiere of "Home Exchange" by Hy Conrad, renowned as the writer of television's "Monk," is the festival's suspenseful centerpiece.

The next night, Hy will join five other mystery writers including Kate Collins, Mike Dennis and Michael Haskins for a book signing and panel discussion titled “The Power of Location.”

And on May 12, a special “Home Exchange” performance and talkback will be staged at the Waterfront Playhouse. There, through insights from Hy and the play’s cast and crew, theater-goers can solve the mysteries surrounding the intriguing production.

The festival’s puzzling proceedings also include meet-and-greet receptions, a backstage tour of the “Home Exchange” set, a classic mystery movie night, and a final brunch that spotlights the winning entries in a mystery short story contest.

Clearly, no sleuthing skills are needed to understand why it would be a “crime” to miss the inaugural Key West Mystery Fest. So don’t be clueless — make plans now to come down and join the suspects. (FYI, I’ll be the one wearing a deerstalker hat and channeling Sherlock Holmes.)

Topics: Arts, Events, Festivals, Highlights, Key West, Voices Main Archive

The sport fish and game fish that roam Florida Keys waters don’t just provide targets for eager anglers. For decades, they’ve also provided inspiration for local and visiting writers — from Ernest Hemingway and Zane Grey to modern-day angler/authors like Jeffrey Cardenas and Jim Sharpe.

Angling in Keys waters, seeking targets like this vivid dolphin, has provided inspiration to authors of fiction and nonfiction for generations. (Photo courtesy of Captain Jim Sharpe)

Hemingway, who lived and wrote in Key West throughout the 1930s, discovered big game fishing in the Keys. When he wasn’t penning literary classics, he was often searching for giant marlin in the waters between Key West and Cuba with comrades like Joe Russell (founder/owner of the iconic Sloppy Joe’s Bar).

Encounters with the ocean’s “big game” found their way into Hemingway’s books, from “To Have and Have Not” — set in Depression-era Key West and his only novel with an American setting — to the Pulitzer Prize–winning “Old Man and the Sea.”

Hemingway’s angling tales helped make Florida Keys fishing popular, but he wasn’t the first notable author to develop a passion for it. That was Western novelist Zane Grey, who arrived in the early 1900s and stayed at the Long Key Fishing Camp, a resort built by railroad baron Henry Flagler.

Grey often fished with local guide Bill Partea — and reportedly missed only two Keys angling seasons from 1911 through 1926.

Zane Grey's "Tales of Fishes" was an early effort praising Keys angling.

In his 1919 pamphlet, “Tales of Fishes,” Grey introduced a worldwide audience to “Gulf Stream Fishing,” describing the use of light tackle to catch sailfish and kingfish off the Keys. It was the first time sailfish had been presented as a worthy game-fish target.

Grey (who co-founded the legendary Long Key Fishing Club) also was one of the first anglers to embrace a catch-and-release ethic. A sign at the club recommended bag limits: “2 SAIL FISH, 5 TARPON, 6 KING FISH, 6 GROUPER” and added, “Any Fish Caught Above The Number Of Each Above Specified Should Be Carefully Returned To The Water.”

Contemporary Keys angler/authors include Jeffrey Cardenas, also a photographer and renowned flats guide, who has spent more than 20 years fishing and drawing inspiration from Keys waters.

Cardenas’ books include the critically acclaimed “Marquesa: A Time & Place with Fish,” and a collection of essays about saltwater fly fishing titled “Sea Level: Adventures of a Saltwater Angler.” In addition, he has written pieces for magazines such as Time and Outside.

Captain Jim Sharpe, author of "Dolphin: The Perfect Gamefish," is a veteran of several decades of fishing and tournament wins. (Photo courtesy of Captain Jim Sharpe)

Few writers, however, have delved as deeply into their subject as Captain Jim Sharpe, author of “Dolphin: The Perfect Gamefish.”

Born and raised in Miami, Sharpe is a veteran of several decades of fishing and tournament wins. His career highlights include establishing and operating the Lower Keys’ Sea Boots Charters, writing for acclaimed fishing publications, and hosting regional radio and television shows on angling.

Sharpe’s book on dolphin fish covers the species’ life and habits, behavior, environmental influences and a wealth of fishing techniques garnered from his rich experience.

Just as it did in the days of Hemingway and Zane Grey, Florida Keys fishing still has a magnetic appeal for writers of fiction and nonfiction. Whether it’s material for a book, the adrenaline rush of battling a finned foe or the satisfaction of catching dinner, authors and anglers can find what they seek in the inspiring waters that surround the Keys.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, History, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, On the Water, Voices Main Archive

In the 1800s, the wrecking industry made Key West the richest city per capita in the United States. Stories still abound about the Keys wreckers’ navigational skills, proud natures, and courage in daring stormy seas to salvage crews and cargoes from sinking ships.

Could this sea serpent, spotted a few years back in Key West, be a contemporary cousin of the monster of Carysford Reef? (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Yet few people know about one of their strangest exploits: salvaging a sea monster off Key Largo’s Carysford (today called Carysfort) Reef.

By 1828, Congress had ruled it illegal to take cargo salvaged from ships wrecked in U.S. waters to any foreign port, so an Admiralty Court was established in newly settled Key West to oversee salvage matters.

Keys wreckers with strength and stamina braved high winds and waves, racing to the reef in their sloops to rescue sailors and their cargoes. In the Admiralty Court, they were compensated for their efforts, with the amount determined by the value of the vessel and merchandise saved, and the degree of danger they faced.

Between 1848 and 1858, the Admiralty Court adjudicated 499 wrecks. In 1852 alone, the annual salvage income totaled $1,500,000.

As well as bringing economic opportunity, wrecking set fashion and style trends. Salvaged goods were often sold to residents at auctions — so, if a cargo of lovely silk shawls was salvaged, the Keys’ fine ladies proudly wore them. The next wreck might carry laces, perfume, or fancy shoes — and suddenly the shawls would be old news.

James Mastin's massive sculpture honoring the wreckers can be seen at the Key West Historic Memorial Sculpture Garden.

Though some people think Keys wrecking was unprincipled or disorganized, that wasn’t the case. Strict rules governed the industry, and captains had to prove their good character to get licensed by the Admiralty Court.

No one thought more highly of the wreckers’ character than Albert Koch … discoverer of the monster of Carysford Reef.

A German-born paleontologist, Koch was passionate about fossil bones. In 1844, he began a two-year odyssey through the eastern U.S. looking for sea monsters. In 1845, touring Alabama, he found one.

The giant fossilized serpent, which Koch called the Hydrarchos, measured 114 feet long. And in June 1845, the New York Shipping and Commercial List reported that the ship transporting it (and 644 bales of cotton) to New York from Mobile had sunk in Florida Keys waters.

Albert Koch, waiting in New York, was devastated. Had any wreckers managed to reach the sinking ship in time to save his monster? Or did they toss his boxes of fossil bones aside and concentrate on saving objects with more obvious value?

At the Key West Shipwreck Museum, visitors can "meet" wreckers and learn their fascinating stories. (Photo courtesy of Historic Tours of America)

Even if the Hydrarchos had been rescued, he couldn’t afford the high salvage fees the court would assess for its return. He feared his treasured monster was lost forever.

The Keys wreckers, however, had a surprise for Albert Koch. One day, he received joyful news from Key West — the wreckers had agreed on a fee for the salvaged cotton, but decided to send the “giant sea serpent” to its owner in New York free of charge, as a service to science and man.

Months later the Hydrarchos was on display in New York, astounding the public, when Albert Koch encountered the captain of the sunken vessel. He told Koch of the rescue of the great Hydrarchos — which apparently had tried to return to the sea.

As the wreckers were loading the boxes of fossil bones onto their ship, one slipped overboard. Seconds later a wrecker followed the box into the storm-swept water, risking his life to save it.

Key West's Oldest House Museum contains items recalling the Keys' lucrative salvage industry. (Photo courtesy of the Old Island Restoration Foundation)

Today, relics of the Keys’ salvage industry are displayed at Key West’s Oldest House Museum & Garden at 322 Duval St. Dating back to 1829, the house was owned by wrecking captain Francis Watlington. And at the Key West Shipwreck Treasures Museum, 1 Whitehead St., the wreckers’ story is told through films, re-enactors and artifacts salvaged from the shipwrecked Isaac Allerton.

Yet even after you explore both museums, a question will probably remain: why did the wreckers act so generously about the Hydrarchos?

Maybe they did realize its importance to science, or maybe their motivation was more elemental. During that fierce storm at sea, maybe they recognized the monster of Carysford Reef as a fellow survivor — and simply wanted to bring its old bones to safety.

Topics: History, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, On the Water, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

You’re never far from water in the Florida Keys. Swimming, fishing, snorkeling, or just relaxing — the water is there to be enjoyed, no matter what your age or inclination.

Fort Jefferson, lying on a tiny island in the Dry Tortugas nearly 70 miles west of Key West, is a favorite spot for visitors. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

One of the most enjoyable water experiences is a voyage aboard the 100-foot catamaran Yankee Freedom II to Dry Tortugas National Park and Fort Jefferson. Located 68 miles west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico, Dry Tortugas is America’s most remote national park — and the six-sided Civil War-era fort just might be the largest brick structure in the Western Hemisphere.

Aboard the Yankee Freedom, you’ll find an air-conditioned main cabin equipped with comfortable benches and tables (if you’re like me, that’s where you’ll want to spend most of your time). The main deck also has three restrooms, including one that’s handicapped-accessible.

If you prefer being outside and don’t mind climbing stairs, you’ll love the second deck. Partly covered and partly open, it’s a great place for basking in the sun and spotting fish, sea turtles and other marine life.

The Yankee Freedom offers comfortable, entertaining daily voyages to the Dry Tortugas. (Photo courtesy of Yankee Freedom and Historic Tours of America)

Once the catamaran leaves its dock at Key West’s Historic Seaport, you can enjoy a bountiful breakfast on board. Shortly you’ll cruise past Boca Grande National Bird Sanctuary, Marquesas Key atoll, and the site of the shipwrecked Spanish treasure galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha. An onboard tour guide provides commentary along the way, sharing his knowledge of the area.

The Dry Tortugas are actually seven tiny coral-and-sand islets that were discovered in 1513 by Ponce de Leon. He named them “Las Tortugas” for the numerous turtles he discovered there — and when no fresh water could be found, the word “Dry” was added to their name.

Massive Fort Jefferson stands on Garden Key, the Tortugas’ largest island, taking up almost the entire land mass.

The fort dates back to 1846, and chances are you’ll find its history as intriguing as I did. Key West was a Union stronghold during the Civil War, so Fort Jefferson was used to house the Union Army’s prisoners — including Dr. Samuel Mudd, who set John Wilkes Booth’s broken leg after Booth shot President Abraham Lincoln.

America's largest masonry structure, the fort welcomes people eager to explore the Tortugas' natural and historic wonders. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Several years after his imprisonment, when the fort’s only doctor died in a yellow fever epidemic, Dr. Mudd treated other prisoners and soldiers who contracted the disease. Eventually, in part because of requests from his captors, President Andrew Johnson granted Dr. Mudd a full pardon.

Today, Yankee Freedom passengers can take a guided tour of the fort and view Dr. Mudd’s cell (bleak enough to make me shiver), or stroll the grounds on their own.

If you’re a birder, be sure to bring your binoculars. Hundreds of species can be found on nearby Bird Key, and you can walk outside the fort and search for them.

Snorkelers and swimmers, bring your bathing suits. Snorkel gear is provided, so you can slip into the crystal blue water for a pleasant hour of activity (you’ll find a shower on the Yankee Freedom that’s great for washing off saltwater).

Tortugas visitors can view seemingly endless vistas of sea and sky. (Photo courtesy of Yankee Freedom and Historic Tours of America)

And if you’re feeling lazy, simply relax on Garden Key’s sandy beach or under the trees.

Later, you’ll return to the boat for a buffet lunch of cold cuts, salads, sandwiches, and desserts set up by the crew — followed by more time to explore the fort and Garden Key. On one of my trips I was escorting a CNN reporter, and we climbed all over the fort shooting photos and checking out the panoramas of turquoise water and sky.

Passengers tend to be quiet on the journey back to Key West, lulled by the wash of waves, savoring a snack or drink as they recall the highlights of their day.

Whether you’re interested in history, architecture, birding, or just having a good time, you can’t beat a day trip to Dry Tortugas National Park. But don’t take my word for it … come down and experience it for yourself.

Topics: Highlights, History, Key West, On the Water, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive

Ken Nedimyer, a Florida Keys coral restoration expert, was recently named a CNN Hero for his pioneering efforts to develop techniques to preserve coral reefs and motivate the public to get involved in the cause.

Ken Nedimyer displays juvenile coral cuttings in his foundation's coral nursery. (Photo by Kevin Gaines, Coral Restoration Foundation)

Ken is the founder and president of the Key Largo-based Coral Restoration Foundation — an organization that’s doing remarkable work and providing tremendous hope for the future of coral reefs.

According to CNN officials, CNN Heroes are everyday people changing the world — dedicating their lives to giving back to communities, defending the planet by protecting the environment, helping others overcome obstacles or solving problems in a unique way. And Ken Nedimyer certainly meets those criteria.

More than 10,000 “heroes” are nominated each year from about 100 countries around the world. Approximately 25 to 30 heroes are profiled, and the top 10 are chosen at the end of the year by CNN’s editorial board to appear in a special CNN presentation — with each finalist receiving a $50,000 grant.

One of the honorees, to be voted by fans across the globe in the fall, is to be named CNN Hero of the Year, and will receive an additional $250,000 grant.

Ken’s nomination came from Gary Yoss, a diver from Wellington, Fla., who had seen his coral plantings on Molasses Reef off Key Largo.

Ken has been named a CNN Hero for his dedication and pioneering efforts in saving corals. (Photo by Kevin Gaines, Coral Restoration Foundation)

“I had to pinch myself; I’m pretty excited,” Ken said after learning about the honor. “It’s a huge endorsement not just for me, but for the foundation — and this really puts us on the radar.”

Now 56 years old, Ken began coral restoration research efforts about 10 years ago after being involved in tropical fish collecting and aquaculture.

Today, his goal — shared by his small but committed staff of marine scientists — is to restore, cultivate and plant staghorn and elkhorn corals, and hopefully reverse their endangered status.

The Coral Restoration Foundation’s one-acre coral nursery, located in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary off Key Largo, is possibly the world’s largest. It contains nearly 23,000 coral clippings that range from the length of a knuckle up to 15 inches.

The clippings are eventually transplanted to nearby reefs to grow and become independent structures, serving as habitat for a variety of tropical fish, and to subsequently reproduce to add further reef growth on the ocean floor.

“We can be proud hearing ‘Key Largo’ and ‘Florida Keys’ are taking measures to protect resources here,” Ken advised.

Overall, he has leveraged common-sense techniques and worked with scores of volunteers to succeed in an effort that some scientists thought was impossible.

Divers work in the Coral Restoration Foundation's coral nursery off Key Largo in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. (Photo by Tim Grollumund)

It’s an effort that dive-certified Keys visitors can assist — by joining Ken’s “workforce” for coral restoration. Several times a year, coral restoration workshops are based at Upper Keys inns and resorts, attracting visitors who learn about coral reefs and participate in working dives to help out at the nursery.

But it’s not just the Keys’ coral reef that can benefit from Ken’s work. His groundbreaking techniques are also likely to have positive impacts for coral reefs in other tropical areas.

“We are developing a concept we can take to other countries as well,” Ken said. “Ours is a message of hope — I’m convinced this is the solution that can work.”

For his passionate conviction, pioneering actions and dedication to saving endangered corals, Ken Nedimyer truly deserves his new title of “hero.”

Topics: Environment, Highlights, Key Largo, Profiles, Voices Main Archive

It’s not a brass or stringed instrument or a drum, but the fluted pink-lined conch shell is the instrument behind the Florida Keys’ most indigenous form of “musical” expression.

Key West's rich "conch" heritage is showcased by kids and grownups alike in the annual "conch honk." (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The art of conch shell blowing is demonstrated every March by novices and rare “pucker pros” at Key West’s annual Conch Shell Blowing Contest — which celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2012.

(Mercifully for most contestants, musical ability is not required, though some seasoned contest entrants can play recognizable tunes.)

The tradition of blowing a conch shell in the Florida Keys began long ago. In the 1800s, when the local economy was largely based on salvaging cargoes from ships wrecked on the nearby reef, sailors attracted attention by blowing piercing blasts on the shell.

“There wasn’t a ship that went out that didn’t have at least one conch shell on it for communications,” said veteran contest winner Clinton Curry.

Clinton Curry, the contest's 2008 winner, performed the amazing feat of tootling two shells simultaneously. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The Keys’ connection with conch, however, goes far beyond instrumental and communications applications. The shell of the queen conch is a symbol of the island chain, and the slightly tough meat of the hardy mollusk is the prime ingredient in conch chowder and conch fritters — two of the area’s signature dishes.

In addition, native Keys residents proudly proclaim their own tough, hardy nature by calling themselves “conchs” — pronounced konks — and their home the Conch Republic.

The republic was born April 23, 1982, after the U.S. Border Patrol set up a blockade that virtually stopped traffic on the only road from the mainland. In protest, local officials staged the Keys’ secession from the United States.

Even NBC "Today" weatherman Al Roker (left) and anchor Matt Lauer are fans of the Conch Republic! Here they display the republic's flag during a special broadcast from Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

After renaming the islands the independent Conch Republic, they declared war on the mother country, pelted federal agents with stale Cuban bread, surrendered after 60 seconds and demanded foreign aid (which, FYI, never arrived).

Today, Keys patriots fly the blue flag of the republic, whose motto is “We Seceded Where Others Failed,” and recall the secession with a lively festival each April. The 2012 Conch Republic Independence Celebration will take place April 20-29, highlighted by a 30th-anniversary re-enactment of the secession on April 23.

Before that, several dozen kids and adults are expected to compete in the 50th anniversary “conch honk” Saturday, March 3.

At the 2011 contest, a Key West musician nicknamed Mandolin Steve played parts of two classic rock songs on one pink-lined shell to take top honors in the men’s division. Steve Gibson blew recognizable excerpts (honest!) from the Rolling Stones’ “Satisfaction” and Deep Purple’s “Smoke on the Water,” earning the crowd’s vigorous applause for his pucker prowess.

Supporters of the quirky Conch Republic show their conch spirit each spring with a lively festival. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

“The trick is to get the shell vibrating, and that’s how you make the sound,” advised Steve, a repeat contender who has taken second place in past contests. “You’re doing it more with the ‘pfffftt’ noise than with the breath.”

Steve learned the “instrument” about five years before his victory while working as a 19th-century shipwreck salvage re-enactor.

“I don’t play the conch shell much because it’s so loud,” he admitted after his win, “but every now and then to scare my neighbor.”

Key West hotelier Kate Miano triumphed in the women’s division after blowing a strong 16-second blast to win a tie-breaker against another female contender.

The top group entry was a self-described “conchestra,” whose 24 members saluted the queen conch with a conch-shell accompaniment and offbeat dance to the strains of Abba’s “Dancing Queen.”

On March 3, entrants in the 50th annual contest will attempt to eclipse their predecessors’ musicianship. But even more important, they’ll demonstrate the strength of the conch connection … and honor an age-old Keys tradition.

Topics: Events, Festivals, Highlights, History, Key West, Local Color, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

It’s February. Nobody seems sure whether that pesky groundhog saw his shadow or not — or what it means when he does. Whether you’re stuck in the snow belt or the “gray skies belt,” it’s a great time to escape to the pristine blue waters of the Florida Keys.

The bronze Christ of the Abyss sculpture is an iconic location for Keys divers and snorkelers. (Photo by Stephen Frink)

One of nature’s greatest wonders is a living coral reef — and the only one in the continental United States parallels the Keys. That means the island chain is an unbelievable place to learn to scuba dive.

Check out the facts here, and then consider heading to Florida’s southernmost islands to “take the plunge.”

WHO can learn to dive?

Any healthy, active person as young as age 10 can learn and enjoy the adventurous sport of scuba diving.

WHAT certification classes are available?

If you’re seeking entry-level certification, allow three to five days for training. Also called “Open Water” certification, this requires classroom work and pool training, followed by one or more open-water dives at the reef.

Once you pass a knowledge test and complete the required number of dives, you become a certified recreational scuba diver — eligible to rent dive gear and book dive trips with most operations worldwide.

Generally, basic certification covers depths to about 60 feet.

Divers explore the superstructure of the Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg artificial reef off Key West. (Photo by Haig Jacobs/Florida Keys News Bureau)

Short on time? Use an online computer program to complete classroom work at home — dealing with concepts such as basic physics and physiology, and the importance of monitoring time and depth during a dive. (For some online courses, students must be at least 13 years old.)

Once that’s done, schedule time in the Keys to complete your water skills during open-water dives … and explore the reef.

HOW MUCH will it cost?

Scuba is an investment in adventure. The price varies, but a basic certification course generally runs a few hundred dollars.

When you’re researching professional dive operations, make sure you consider value versus price, what rental equipment is included in the cost, and whether or not you receive personalized, one-on-one service and training.

Snorkelers discover the undersea realm off Key Largo in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. (Photo by Bob Care/Florida Keys News Bureau)

WHERE do students receive their dive training?

The entire Keys are an unparalleled dive destination. Some of America’s very first businesses offering recreational dive training were opened in the Keys.

You can choose from dozens of dive operations staffed with working professionals. Keys dive instructors actively teach and train each day — not just seasonally.

Click a region here to see available professional dive facilities: Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine and the Lower Keys, and Key West.

WHEN are classes offered?

In the Keys (unlike other U.S. destinations), year-round subtropical weather and clear, warm seas mean an ideal learning environment virtually any time of year — which sure beats learning to dive in a cold, dark quarry or lake up north.

WHAT’S the “classroom” like?

Training usually is conducted in small groups, allowing personalized or even one-to-one attention.

Training conditions at the Keys’ shallow barrier reef are nice and easy, with light currents and great underwater visibility. You’ll learn about ocean waves, marine life, beautiful corals and navigation around natural formations during a dive.

The Florida Keys' unparalleled natural beauty draws scores of snorkelers and divers to explore the living coral reef.

Ocean depths from the shoreline to the reef rarely reach 20 feet. The reef lives in waters as shallow as five feet and as deep as 50 feet, but most reef divers log a maximum depth of 20 to 30 feet.

Keys shallow diving means you can safely spend more time on the bottom, and colors are brighter and more vibrant because more natural sunlight reaches shallow depths.

WHY dive the Keys?

The Keys attract some of the world’s most diverse species of fish, and you also can enjoy a “wreck trek” of venerable historic wrecks and ships intentionally sunk to create artificial reefs. These artificial reefs are home to a huge variety of corals and fish.

In fact, Keys sites offer divers — from recreational to expert — the chance to experience the underwater world’s beauty, diversity and serenity.

And that’s awfully appealing … especially in February.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, On the Water, Voices Main Archive

Talk about culture shock. I was a senior citizen when I first came to Key West to visit my daughter, who had already bridged the gap from midwestern city to the tropical island at the end of the line.

Blog author Katharine chats with world-renowned marine life artist Wyland, who lives in the Upper Keys.

The warm weather and lack of snow in midwinter were the least of the differences. Actually, I’d had enough of using the snow blower and starting the car just before going to bed in the hope that the darn thing would run in the morning.

The casual attitude (and dress) of those who lived in the Keys was a much greater change. But it was one I happily learned to live with as I returned to become a resident of the island chain.

One of the first things I noticed was the complete lack of age discrimination — or even recognition. Nineteen or 90, everyone was welcome everywhere. To paraphrase Jimmy Buffett, age in the Keys is a state of mind. To a senior from a traditional background, this was a remarkable fact.

Being in the younger stage of “seniorhood,” I was able to participate in almost everything the Keys offered. I drew the line at parasailing, but snorkeling was an enjoyable way to spend an hour or two and view the fish from another angle.

I soon noticed the scores of bicycle-riders on the streets of Key West, so one of my first stops was at a bike store. Emerging some time later, I was off to see the sights from the seat of my “conch cruiser.”

Toured by scores of visitors daily, the Hemingway property became a museum in 1964 and was recently designated a literary landmark. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

On that early adventure, there was so much to see — and so much to do. I was told that one must never leave the Keys without having something to drink at Sloppy Joe’s Bar, where Hemingway whiled away many hours and imbibed many such concoctions. Though I never planned to leave, I felt compelled to follow tradition and stop in. And speaking of Hemingway, I had to see his house, where he worked, and his six-toed cats. Just another bicycle ride down the street.

Exploring the Key West Bight, filled with shrimp boats, was another must. Today it’s filled with sailboats and excursion craft, but is still an enthralling sight.

My legs were feeling the strain of pedaling, so I returned to my car for the drive to midtown. There I was able to find Tennessee Williams’ house — which was smaller than I had anticipated, but its red shutters made it stand out.

During the next few weeks I explored Bahama Village, where some of the original Key West settlers lived. I even ventured into another watering hole, Captain Tony’s Saloon, where Tony Tarracino still held court, for an alcoholic treat.

And since then, I have never ceased marveling at the sunset, the people, and the climate of my favorite place in the world.

Katharine and her husband Joe (far right) quickly met senior (and younger) Ernest Hemingway Look-Alikes in Key West for an annual contest.

Today Key West has changed in many ways. The streets are busier, with more shops and restaurants for visitors and residents to enjoy. There are more resorts and hotels, and more visitors, who please local merchants by leaving behind a fair quantity of dollars.

And I don’t ride a bicycle anymore.

But the wonderful attitude, the laid-back lifestyle that’s truly Caribbean, remains throughout the island chain. It still doesn’t matter if you’re 20 or 90 — you’re still welcome and there’s still plenty to see and do.

The Keys lifestyle is what I will be discussing in this column during the next months. The opportunities that are here for seniors, just for the taking. The sights, the activities, and the wonderful, quirky atmosphere that belongs to the Keys and the Keys alone.

You’ll see entries from me in this space around the middle of each month — and probably more often as time goes on. So keep checking back, and keep reading!

Topics: Key West, Local Color, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive

For some people, “seeing stars” means spotting Angelina Jolie on a Manhattan street or Johnny Depp at an Aspen ski lodge. But for some 600 amateur and professional astronomers from around the world, “stars” have a meaning that’s literally light years away from the realm of Hollywood celebrities — and the best place to see them is in the Lower Florida Keys.

Astronomers flock to the Lower Keys each winter to view stars and constellations that can't be seen from anywhere else in the U.S. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In fact, the Lower Keys are so well known as a stargazer’s paradise that, each year for more than 25 years, the tranquil region has been the site of an annual gathering called the Winter Star Party.

The event’s primary draw for astronomers is the incredible number of southern constellations, comets, stars and other celestial objects that are visible from the Florida Keys — thanks to the Keys’ southern location and relative absence of large-scale artificial lighting at night.

“The Florida Keys are an ideal place to do this conference because at this latitude, 24.5 degrees, we can see down to minus 65 degrees on the horizon,” said event founder Tippy D’Auria, an international lecturer and astro-photographer. “It’s so far south that it enables the viewer to see things farther down in the Southern Hemisphere than they can see from anywhere else in the country.”

An easygoing man who is also world-renowned for his knowledge of volcanoes, Tippy has even led an expedition to the volcanoes of Costa Rica for the filming of a National Geographic documentary called “Volcano Hunters.”

Winter Star Party founder Tippy D'Auria is a well-known astronomer, astro-photographer, lecturer and volcano expert. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

But in February each year, it’s stars that are on his mind — and on the minds of scores of other astronomers, astro-photographers, telescope makers and more.

This year, they’ll gather Feb. 20-26 at a Girl Scout camp on the aptly-named Scout Key for the 28th annual Winter Star Party — hosted, as always, by Miami’s Southern Cross Astronomical Society. Founded in 1922, the SCAS is one of the oldest amateur astronomical societies in the Western Hemisphere.

What do you DO at a Winter Star Party?

During the day, participants can attend lectures and presentations by nationally recognized astronomers and guest speakers, shop for astronomy equipment from on-site vendors, compete in photo contests, vie for prizes and share insights with fellow astronomy aficionados. There are even special camp activities set up for young astronomers.

Featured speakers at the 2012 gathering include award-winning author and astronomer Stephen James O’Meara, whose books include the truly fascinating Deep-Sky Companion series, astronomer and telescope maker Mike Lockwood, astro-photographer and event director Tim Khan, solar system research and planetary photography specialist Dr. Donald C. Parker and of course Tippy D’Auria.

This amazing shot was taken by Dean Schwartzenberg during the 2009 Winter Star Party. (Photo courtesy of SCAS)

A few years back, the gathering’s headliner was Dr. F. Story Musgrave, the only NASA astronaut to have flown on five space shuttle missions — and NASA’s lead astronaut for space walking for more than 25 years.

But no matter how intriguing the speakers’ presentations might be, the Star Party action really heats up when the sun goes down. That’s when the covers come off the expensive, highly prized telescopes — some of them so massive that it’s necessary to climb a ladder to gaze through their lenses — and the heavens come alive for those whose passion is viewing them.

When that happens, trust me, nobody’s thinking about Johnny or Angelina at all.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Events, Highlights, Voices Main Archive

The official Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad centennial celebration ended Jan. 23 (and it was a great joy to be part of the once-in-a-lifetime event). But even though that date has passed, you can still explore sites, exhibits and landmarks recalling the world-renowned railroad that, in 1912, connected the Keys with mainland Florida for the first time.

Visitors to the Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House examine the exhibit commemorating the 100th anniversary of the debut of Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, check out “Flagler’s Speedway to Sunshine,” a permanent exhibit at the Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House. Fascinating for railroad buffs, history aficionados, kids and anyone who loves the Keys, the exhibit showcases the construction, heyday and demise of the railroad once called “the eighth wonder of the world.”

At the impressive red-brick museum, you’ll find a re-created railway car, a replica section of the Old Seven Mile Bridge that was the Over-Sea Railroad’s centerpiece, vintage footage of the train trip from the Middle Keys to Key West, a film spotlighting railroad creator Henry Flagler and the first train’s arrival in Key West, and MUCH more.

In a new exhibit section, you’ll discover Key West’s Prohibition era, the Great Depression, and even the 1935 hurricane that severely damaged parts of the railroad and helped end its reign. Also featured are the history of Key West’s Casa Marina, the jewel of Flagler’s resort hotels, and even family albums and memorabilia from Ernest Hemingway’s life in Key West during the 1930s.

Railroad and history buffs can visit the former Over-Sea Railroad work camp at Pigeon Key, lying beneath the historic Old Seven Mile Bridge. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The museum is far from the only place you can experience the history of the fabled Over-Sea Railroad — whose track, by the way, stretched more than 100 miles out over open water. Near Marathon in the Middle Keys, a railroad heritage site called Pigeon Key lies beneath the Old Seven Mile Bridge, providing an eye-opening window on Keys life a century ago.

Just over two miles west of Marathon, five-acre Pigeon Key was home to more than 400 workers who built the railroad in the early 1900s. The island was a base camp with a commissary and one-room school during the Seven Mile Bridge’s construction from 1908 to 1912.

Today many of Pigeon Key’s original railroad buildings and houses still stand — and it’s no surprise to find that the tiny, pristine speck of land is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It also has a museum that chronicles the construction of the amazing railroad, and daily historic tours are offered.

Costumed artists and re-enactors celebrate the debut of Key Largo's mural inspired by the Over-Sea Railroad centennial. (Photo courtesy of Cris Sandifer)

Combine your Pigeon Key expedition with a boat ride by taking the ferry from a visitor center at Knight’s Key, located at mile marker 47 on the west end of Marathon.

Even if you can’t explore Pigeon Key or the Key West exhibit, you’ll glimpse plenty of reminders of the Over-Sea Railroad simply by driving through the Keys on the Overseas Highway — which evolved from the railroad itself. For example, near mile marker 95 bayside in Key Largo stands an intriguing outdoor mural, recently painted by artists from the Upper Keys’ Art Guild of the Purple Isles and Keys high school art club students.

The hand-painted mural measures 60 feet long and 11.5 feet high, and depicts an Over-Sea Railroad passenger train steaming across an arched bridge that looks a lot like the Long Key Viaduct. In the sky is a full moon adorned with the face of railroad visionary Henry Flagler.

And speaking of bridges, it’s easy to spot many of the original railroad bridges alongside the spans supporting the modern Florida Keys Overseas Highway — the contemporary connection from mainland Florida through the Keys — that follows the trail blazed by Flagler a century ago.

Topics: Events, Highlights, History, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, Voices Main Archive