March 20 marked the vernal equinox — the end of winter and the beginning of spring. That means Key West is in the midst of high season, with visitors escaping cold weather and students on their spring break.

This spring, and all year long, blog author Steve Smith welcomes visitors to Key West.

It doesn’t seem like spring if you look at the temperatures around the country (especially the northeast). We, however, are enjoying temperatures in the upper 70’s with lots of sunshine — perfect for bicycling around the island while our friends in the New England states unwillingly shovel snow.

While you’re pedaling through Old Town Key West, check out a couple of great stops for Cuban coffee, toast and sandwiches.

5 Brothers Grocery and Sandwich Shop, on the corner of Southard and Grinnell streets, has been a locals’ favorite for 26 years. It was there that I had my first Key West “Cuban Mix” sandwich some 25 years ago. Pressed flat Cuban bread layered with ham, fresh cooked pork roast, salami, cheese and pickles makes for an explosion of flavors. Often I grab a sandwich and coffee and sit on the bench outside the shop chatting with locals as they stop in for coffee and a social visit.

Want a seriously great Cuban Mix sandwich and cafe con leche? Head for one of Key West's traditional Cuban eateries. (Photo courtesy of the Cuban Coffee Queen)

Another locals’ favorite is the Cuban Coffee Queen, located at the end of Margaret Street in the Historic Seaport. Toasted Cuban bread with butter and cheese, accompanied by café con leche, is a tradition. Dip the toast in your coffee for a taste treat.  If you need a shot of energy, try the cortadito — a double espresso with cane sugar topped with steamed milk.

After your coffee, take a ride through the historic Key West Cemetery, moved to its current location in 1847. A tour through the surprisingly welcoming place tells much about the island’s unique character.

The sailors who lost their lives in the sinking of the battleship U.S.S. Maine in 1898 are commemorated, as are those who died in the Ten Years’ War, fought from 1868 to 1878 in an unsuccessful attempt to liberate Cuba from Spanish rule.

The Key West Cemetery offers an oasis of peace and tranquil beauty. (Photo by Joseph McLaughlin)

Also notable are locals’ epitaphs that boldly proclaim sentiments ranging from “I Told You I Was Sick” to “Devoted Fan of Singer Julio Iglesias.”

Speaking of interesting explorations, every Saturday you can hop on the Gay Trolley Tour. Departing at 4 p.m. from a trolley stop at Angela and Duval streets, the tour is a fun-filled hour-plus highlighting the gay history of Key West, pointing out places of interest and filling you in on upcoming events.

The Key West Business Guild, now celebrating its 35th year, hosts the tour as well as operating Key West’s Gay and Lesbian Visitor Center while producing a weekly “What’s Happening This Week and Beyond” guide to keep you busy.

The center is open daily and offers a wealth of information about gay and gay-friendly Key West and discounts from guild members. Stop in and meet Peter, Matt, Susan, Guy, and some of the guild’s volunteers. You’ll find the center at 513 Truman Ave. just off Duval in a Key lime green building.

On Key West's gay trolley tour, passengers learn about the island city's LGBT sites, history and highlights.

If you’re planning a trip to the Keys, flying to into the Key West International Airport has never been easier. We now have seasonal Saturday nonstop service from New York’s La Guardia on Delta, and from Washington’s Reagan National on US Airways. Delta also offers nonstop flights from Atlanta. Southwest now serves us nonstop from Orlando, Tampa, Atlanta and New Orleans — and American Airlines has changed from turbo-props to jet service with flights taking less than 30 minutes from Miami International.

Upcoming events include the 31st annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration, which salutes our 1982 secession from the Union to become the planet’s first “fifth world” nation. Look for more on this entertaining event in my next writing.

Topics: Food, Key West, LGBT, Local Color, Restaurant Picks

The Florida Keys just experienced 2013’s first “winter” weather. While much of the country was blanketed in snow, sleet and artic chills, we saw the temperature dip one night to the (gasp!) upper 60s.  While many of our visitors strolled the streets in shorts and windbreakers, we locals were wearing hooded jackets and scarves (and a few less hardy souls even wore gloves!).

Beautiful sunrises over the Atlantic Ocean are characteristic of Key West's balmy "winter" season.

Two days later, I walked the blog dog in shorts and a T-shirt, watching kite surfers soar and families playing at the beach. We are truly blessed with our balmy year-round weather; the high temperatures this week will be in the 80s with lows in the mid-70s and sunshine all day.

If you’re lucky enough to be in Key West, take some time to bicycle around the island during the early winter days. You’ll see mango trees flush with small thumb-size fruit that ripens in late May. The fruit becomes the size of a grapefruit and turns various shades of yellow, orange and red.

The frangipani trees that recently looked like bare reindeer antlers now have bursts of yellow, pink, white and red flowers on the ends of the antler-shaped branches.  Gardens and planters are full of blooming impatiens, bromeliads and geraniums decorating homes and yards with purple, red, yellow and orange splashes of color.  (This is a great time to take photos, so don’t forget your camera.)

Located in a former carriage house behind the Key West Woman's Club, the Red Barn is a mecca for lovers of good theater. (Photo courtesy of the Red Barn Theatre)

You’ll also find our theaters alive with nightly performances. Intimate theater thrives here and I suggest checking the schedules and purchasing tickets in advance, because often the evenings sell out.

The Red Barn Theatre, built as a carriage house in 1829, has seating for 88 guests. “Love, Loss, and What I Wore” and the Tony Award nominee “Time Stands Still” are on the upcoming schedule.

The Waterfront Playhouse will open “The Drowsy Chaperone” on March 7. Described as “a musical within a comedy,” this big production features 18 performers, 20 set changes and 250 costumes. Winner of five Tony Awards, the show blends a gay wedding and mayhem, keeping audiences impatiently awaiting the next scene.  Local actors Marjorie Paul-Shook, Vicki Roush, Bruce Moore, Jeff Harwell, and JB McLendon bring their talents to the Waterfront to present an unforgettable evening.

On theater nights I like grab a quick meal on the walk to the show, and Key West’s Hard Rock Café is always good for a bite.  Located next to the Red Barn Theatre in a restored Victorian structure, the Hard Rock opened in the 1990s and features Key West–themed cuisine served on terraces overlooking Duval Street.

The Waterfront Playhouse offers a stellar season of theater and special events each year. (Drawing by Judi Bradford)

Across the street is another of my pre-theater favorites, the Grand Café, which also occupies a restored Duval Street mansion. The Grand offers indoor and garden dining and seating on a wraparound porch. Fresh Key West pink shrimp, mahi mahi, tuna and yellowtail snapper highlight the menu.

If you’re in the mood for salsa music and a Cuban meal, try the family-owned and operated El Meson de Pepe just steps from the Waterfront Playhouse. El Meson is located on Mallory Square in the Cayo Hueso y Habana building, and a walk through this historic brick structure offers glimpses of colorful Cuban and Key West history. The air is filled with the smells of fragrant tobacco from freshly-rolled cigars, as well as Spanish olive oil and garlic, and you’ll find yourself swaying to the beat of the Latin music performed by the onsite band.

On a closing note, save the weekend of March 22 for a celebration of the life of playwright Tennessee Williams. I’ll tell you more about this significant event next time around.

Topics: Arts, Food, LGBT, Restaurant Picks

Want to immerse yourself the flavors of the Florida Keys? Then check out two books recently released by Key West authors that offer equally tasty, yet very different, views of the island chain’s cuisine.

Florida Keys cuisine is rich in local seafood delicacies like sweet stone crab claws. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

(Yes, I’m referring to the cuisine that some misguided souls, who’ve never tried the Keys’ restaurants, think is composed almost entirely of conch fritters and Cuban sandwiches — but in reality includes such amazing dishes as sauteed yellowtail in passion fruit sauce, mahi-mahi Benedict and baked chicken marinated in tangy mojo criollo.)

To explore the roots of the Keys’ culinary magic, Chef Paul Menta has penned “Native Fuel.” The book is a flavorful blend of insights, recipes and regional food history that Paul calls “not just a cookbook, but an adventure that takes place in the Keys.”

And, believe me, Paul is a man who knows adventure. He’s a master kiteboarder as well as a professional chef, and his zest for life is reflected in everything he does.

He delved deep into the island chain’s past to compile the volume, which emphasizes old and new Keys dishes, food secrets from local residents, healthy preparation and the value of sourcing native foods.

“Cooks in the Florida Keys have followed a long history of resourcefulness and recipes,” Paul advised. “Before trains and the Overseas Highway, you fed your family only the local foods.”

Chef Paul Menta's intriguing "Native Fuel" delves deep into the history and secrets of Keys food favorites.

The book’s intriguing recipes invite experimentation, while vivid photographs present food as art and offer inspiration to reader-chefs.

Key West author David Sloan wants to inspire readers too — to share his passion for Key lime pie. He’s unabashedly crazy about the tangy dessert, and hopes his “Ultimate Key Lime Pie Cookbook” will convince others to adopt his food fanaticism.

Key lime pie, by the way, is far more than just a delectable dessert. It’s also the official pie of the state of Florida! The designation was announced in July 2006 after a vote by the state legislature and approval from Florida’s then-governor. (The other contender for the honor, oddly enough, was pecan pie — more representative of Georgia than Florida.)

David Sloan didn’t lead the celebration following the designation, which naturally took place in Key West, but he’s certainly one of Key lime pie’s biggest proponents these days.

Offbeat author David Sloan, who penned "The Ultimate Key Lime Pie Cookbook," decorates a pie. (Photo by Rob O'Neal)

A former competitor in the professional division of the National Pie Championships, he seasons his book with humor, little-known facts and tips from fellow pie-making pros.

Its pages contain the answers to such burning questions as which Key lime pie ingredient was created to suppress amorous urges, what strange Key West ritual makes a Key lime tree bear fruit and what sets Key limes apart from ordinary limes.

The book’s “main course,” however, is the recipes for 20 crusts, 20 fillings, 20 sauces and 20 toppings that David swears can be mixed and matched to create more than 150,000 varieties of Key lime pie. Among the recipes are truly offbeat offerings like Key lime pies incorporating (believe it or not!) bacon and jalapeno peppers.

“What is the best Key lime pie? That’s easy,” said David. “It’s the one you’re about to eat.”

Hungry for more information about the Florida Keys’ intriguing cuisine? Start your mouthwatering exploration here.

Topics: Arts, Food, Highlights, Key West, Local Color, Voices Main Archive

2013 is around the corner and the Florida Keys are alive with colorful flowers mixed with holiday decorations and the buzz of full guesthouses and hotels. Imagine leaving your snow-covered northern home and in a couple hours stepping off the airplane into 70-plus-degree sunshine.

Happy holidays from blog author Steve (right) and his husband Paul!

And there are many great options for traveling to Key West. American Eagle now offers regional jet service and the trip from Miami takes about 15 minutes. Delta Airlines operates the longest-ever scheduled non-stop flight to Key West — departing on Saturdays from La Guardia, it’s 1,211 miles and takes a little over three hours. U.S. Airways has a seasonal Saturday non-stop flight from Washington D.C. taking just under three hours. And Southwest now offers daily service from Tampa and Orlando, with a daily New Orleans flight debuting in March 2013.

Once you reach Key West and get settled, hop on a bicycle and head to Glazed Doughnuts at 420 Eaton St. Meet chefs John and Megan Pridgeon and try one of their freshly made doughnuts such as Key lime with toasted meringue or the chocolate lovers’ special. Just last week I had their ginger stars delight with glaze and confetti sprinkles. Megan also makes ice cream, sorbet, and one-of-a-kind popsicles.

Head for Towels of Key West for luxurious towels including rainbow favorites. (Photo courtesy of Towels of Key West)

After the sugar rush, walk down Duval Street and check some local retail shops and galleries. The Guild Hall Gallery, an artist co-op at 614 Duval, has been showcasing local creativity since 1976. Twenty-seven Key West artists are represented, and on Fridays you can watch Ann Irvine and Poochie Myers painting in the loft studio. Bring your own paint and canvas and join the fun!

Down the street at 619 Duval is the Art Gone Wild Gallery featuring works by glass master Danny Reece, Chad Awalt’s sculptures, D. Arthur Wilson’s “Rhupert the Ostrich” creations and his renowned wildlife menagerie. Wilson is very involved in wildlife preservation and conservation, like many Key Westers.

Then wander over to Towels of Key West, located at 806 Duval for over 25 years. Kent Henry and his husband Stan Wellman proudly display their own designs on towels, shirts and more. They’re formerly from Indiana, so a signature shirt states “Hoosier Daddy” and another proclaims “Pool Boy Key West.”

What's happening in Key West this New Year's Eve? The famed "drag queen drop" (a past year's festivities are pictured here). Don't miss it! (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

You’ll see me wearing their American Boy line of shirts while promoting the Keys at pride events across the country. (“American Boy Key West” is one of my favorites.) Their items are made in America, and many are made here on the island. Plus, their signature rainbow flag beach towel is world famous. Be sure to tell them I sent you!

When you’re “shopped out,” relax at Croissants de France where owner Patrick Gossweiler and his pastry chefs have been tempting people with authentic French delicacies for more than 27 years. Often you’ll find me with a quiche or croissant and an iced latte sitting on the porch watching the crowds stroll down Duval Street. There’s also a delightful garden in the back where you can dine in a serene shaded oasis that seems far from busy Duval. (Save room for dessert, like my favorite Fraisier sponge cake with fresh strawberries in mousseline cream.)

Meantime, have a great New Year’s Eve and be sure to watch our annual “Red Shoe Drop” at Bourbon St. Pub — usually carried live on CNN! We also celebrate by “dropping” a gigantic replica conch shell at Sloppy Joe’s and a “pirate wench” from the top of a tall ship’s mast at the Historic Seaport, while fireworks explode over the Atlantic Ocean off our own South Beach.

Topics: Arts, Food, Key West, LGBT, Restaurant Picks

My brother-in-law is a sophisticated New York attorney. He lives in a spacious, elegant apartment not far from Central Park, and escapes on summer weekends to a sprawling Victorian home on Long Island. He’s the kind of guy who looks genuinely comfortable in a designer three-piece suit.

Fausto's, owned by former Key West mayor Jimmy Weekley, is the source of my brother-in-law's favorite Cuban bread. (Photo courtesy of Fausto's Food Palace)

So what was he doing carting half a loaf of Cuban bread through the Miami airport?

Simple. My brother-in-law, like so many people who visit Key West, fell in love several years ago with the sights, colors and flavors of the island — particularly the crisp, floury taste of fresh Cuban bread. When he leaves after a visit, his leftover loaves leave with him, to be enjoyed in the metropolitan sprawl of Manhattan.

What do I send this urban sophisticate every year to grace his table as the holiday season begins?

Cuban bread from Fausto’s Grocery in a cardboard mailing tube.

While fresh Cuban bread wouldn’t delight the heart of every visitor, purchasing and packing it (a loaf fits perfectly in a standard mailing tube!) reminded me of treats we Key Westers can enjoy every day — but that can’t be experienced in other places.

Dog Beach draws denizens like this happy canine. (Photo by Joanne Denning)

For example, there’s the old-time Key Westers’ pre-sunset tradition of taking the pooch to play “coconut fetch” at Dog Beach. Tucked into the corner of a mostly residential neighborhood at Waddell and Alberta streets, this tiny beach fronting on the Atlantic is a favorite of locals and their dogs.

Just before sunset, it’s not unusual to see 10 or 12 canines playing with frisbees, coconuts, or each other in the shallow water — while their human companions watch from the rocky beach or the water’s-edge cocktail deck at Louie’s Backyard, the popular gourmet restaurant next door. (Yes, Key West has a great dog park, but some longtime residents still prefer Dog Beach.)

FYI, sipping late-afternoon cocktails at Louie’s waterfront bar is also a quintessential Key West pleasure. Located in a pastel house once owned by a shipwreck salvage captain, Louie’s opened as a restaurant in 1971 with one waiter, a cigar box cash register, and seating for 12.

It quickly became famous for its cuisine, relaxed atmosphere, and well-known patrons — including entertainer/author Jimmy Buffett, novelist Tom McGuane, and Ten Speed, a legendary mutt who drank Kahlua and cream at the outdoor bar.

Louie's has been a Key West hot spot since it opened in this historic oceanfront house. (Photo courtesy of Louie's Backyard)

These days, the bar still attracts regulars ranging from local treasure hunters and fishing guides to literary legends and celebrities hoping to remain incognito.

After dark, lights spill out from the restaurant to illuminate the bar area, the stars above look practically close enough to touch, and the Atlantic unrolls seemingly halfway to Cuba.

Whether after dark or during the day, another of my favorite pastimes is taking a leisurely stroll past historic homes in the Old Town district. Key West has what’s believed to be the U.S.’s largest predominantly wooden historic district, containing almost 3,000 structures — many dating from the 19th century.

There you’ll see lovingly restored Victorian frame houses with wraparound verandahs next to heart-meltingly gorgeous pastel cottages. Luxuriant vegetation is everywhere, thriving in the year-round subtropical temperatures: royal poinciana trees flaunting flame-colored blossoms, hibiscus blooms cascading over white picket fences, tall palms, the red bark of the “tourist tree” peeling like the overexposed legs of sun-hungry visitors.

The Hogfish is renowned for its world-class seafood -- including amazing smoked fish dip. (Photo courtesy of the Hogfish Bar & Grill)

And speaking of “hungry,” a trip to the Hogfish Bar & Grill tops my list of only-in-Key-West treats (though actually, this hard-to-find hideaway stands just outside Key West on neighboring Stock Island.)

Most diners at the funky locals’ watering hole sit outdoors at weathered picnic tables, overlooking picturesque houseboats and sailboats moored at the adjacent dock.

The restaurant’s signature dish is hogfish, a diver–caught fish with a light flavorful taste, but all kinds of fresh Keys seafood is served (including a smoked-fish dip that may be the best in the known universe).

Another time, I’ll share more of my favorite Key West experiences — but right now, I’m off to the post office with a loaf of Cuban bread in a mailing tube.

Topics: Food, Highlights, Key West, Local Color, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

October has flown past and we’re looking at the kickoff of Fantasy Fest 2012.  More than 40 masquerade contests, themed parties, and parades offer the chance to be who or what your fantasies may dream up.

Dressing for excess is one of the joys of Key West's outrageous annual Fantasy Fest celebration. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

During this outrageous festival you’re likely to encounter walking sea life, politicians, movie characters, zombies, vampires and animals all bejeweled with sequins, feathers, body paint, fairy dust and elaborate masks.

For example, Friday, Oct. 26, brings the Masquerade March through the streets of Key West’s historic district. Starting on Frances Street by the cemetery gates, hundreds of revelers march from guesthouse to guesthouse sampling libations and picking up more partygoers — until a group of several thousand reach Duval Street, passing Bobby’s Monkey Bar.

This is my favorite event of the festival and over the years I’ve been a jungle native, a devil, a character from the movie “V — The Vendetta” and Juanita from “Sordid Lives.”

Also on Friday, Duval Street becomes a colorful marketplace with vendors selling everything from arts and crafts to jewelry, masks and feathers, and a variety of food. Most entertaining, though, are the costumed shoppers. You never know who (or what!) you’ll see strolling through the marketplace. There will be quite a bit of body paint and exposed flesh, as well as some of the most elaborate costumes you’ve ever seen. This is a day not to be missed!

The Fantasy Fest parade draws huge crowds and wonderful floats like this "Avatar" interpretation. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Saturday brings the Captain Morgan Fantasy Fest Parade, when 60,000 people line Duval Street as dozens of floats and marching groups strut their way along Whitehead Street, Front Street and Duval. (Get there early and mark your spot, since huge crowds are guaranteed!)

Several restaurants offer dinner and parade packages. Our own Hard Rock Café has terraces overlooking the street with a great view of the parade, a special dinner menu, beverages and beads. Bourbon St. Pub also offers great viewing from the balcony and a catered buffet complete with bar.

When the parade ends you might think things would slow down, but they just keep on going with the annual Parrot Heads in Paradise “Meeting of the Minds” convention starting Thursday, Nov. 1.

These fans of singer Jimmy Buffett don’t just come here to enjoy concerts around Key West — they also contribute to the community. The 239 Parrot Head chapters span three countries, have more than 28,000 members, and through 2011 have donated more than $26.2 million dollars to local and national charitable organizations.

Blog author Steve digs into a sweet treat at Mattheessen's.

Ready for a break from the action? Take a walk or bike ride to Mattheessen’s 4th of July Ice Cream Parlor and Café. Brent and Christina Mattheessen serve great sandwiches, soups, and the best homemade ice cream in Key West.

You’ll also find burgers, wraps, fries, and giant fresh-baked brownies and cookies. If you’re in the American Airlines dining program, you even get miles for dining!

Speaking of American Airlines, in mid-November American Eagle is to start jet service between Miami and Key West International Airport. This will make the short flight even shorter!  American Eagle joins Delta, U.S. Airways, and AirTran/Southwest in offering fast jet service to our tiny island.

I hope to see you at one of the upcoming parties or parades.

Topics: Events, Festivals, Food, Highlights, Key West, LGBT

At first glance, the fence that adjoins the rather shabby building settled patiently at 806 Caroline St. in Key West is an enigma. White-painted boards stand taller than a man, blocking the action inside from the street like a fence is meant to do. But this fence is different. There are pairs of small holes in this fence, set at varying heights: some at adult height, some kid-height, some close to street level.

Pepe's is a landmark that draws locals and visitors for wonderful food and a laid-back "old Key West" atmosphere. (All images courtesy of Pepe's)

Obviously, they’re not wormholes. Or woodpecker holes. Or the lifetime achievement of a workaholic termite. These are manmade, created for a purpose. And that purpose becomes clear the minute anybody puts his face up to a pair of the mysterious holes and discovers he can see into the courtyard of Pepe’s Cafe & Steak House. They’re peepholes — quirky, individualistic, and typical of the casually enticing atmosphere at Pepe’s.

(The small ones near street level, of course, are for dogs and cats so they too can scope out the courtyard action. That little touch is also typical of Pepe’s.)

Above the door, an ancient sign reads “EAT Merita … Pepe’s Cafe … Complete Breakfast 75 cents.” At least that’s what it appears to say; the paint is faded and peeling, so it’s hard to tell for sure. Below, painted on a sort of wooden awning, is the legend “Established 1909 … Pepe’s Cafe … Eldest Eating House in the Florida Keys.”

In 1909, Commander Robert Peary reached the North Pole, and the Pittsburgh Pirates beat the Detroit Tigers to win the World Series. And at 202 Duval St. in Key West, José “Pepe” Pelaez opened his new restaurant.

The iconic eatery celebrated its 100th birthday in 2009. The centennial graphic here, in typical understated style, dubs it "a fairly good place for quite a long while."

He advertised it as a place “where you meet your friends over a cup of coffee.” It quickly became just that. A core of regular patrons grew up over the years, consisting of workers from the Key West Electric Company, city hall and fire station personnel, and reporters from the nearby newspaper office.

Homemade cakes and freshly cooked ham (often prepared by Pepe’s wife Ellie) were featured delights, and days just weren’t the same without a stop for some sustenance at Pepe’s. Even Ernest Hemingway, who lived in Key West throughout the 1930s, was a patron.

In the 1940s, Pepe Pelaez sold the business to Henrique Henriquez, who promptly employed Eduardo “Curi” Garcia. Initially the night cook at the popular eatery, Curi became known for his souse — a Conch soup made with tripe and pig’s feet. (Or maybe it was for the bolita he sold on the side. Saturday afternoons were crowded as gamblers gathered to find out the results of their bets.)

Two young patrons pose in front of Pepe's fence that sports enticing peepholes at varying levels.

Many years later, the property Pepe’s occupied was sold and the establishment, much its faithful customers’ regret, shut its doors. That is, until Curi Garcia figured the island had been without a “Pepe’s” long enough. He opened Pepe’s Cafe on Caroline Street, in a small building that had originally housed a neighborhood store. The local Merita Bread distributor paid the $50 cost of the sign in exchange for an advertisement on it.

According to longtime locals, Curi generally kept Pepe’s open from 4:30 a.m. until 10 a.m. or later. Basically, when regulars spotted him up front asleep in a chair, that meant the place was closed.

Allan Miller, who came to Key West from Martha’s Vineyard, bought the restaurant from Curi in the 1970s. During his tenure, he opened up the low drop ceiling and added a homey fireplace. Slightly worn French doors now open out to the courtyard bar and dining area, and the old Formica tables have been replaced with wooden booths.

The current menu features hearty steaks, fresh fish and oysters instead of souse, but the undemanding neighborhood atmosphere established by the former owners remain.

Pepe's simple yet classic logo, shown here adorning a t-shirt, is easily recognized by Key West insiders and those who want to be.

These days, Pepe’s boasts a collection of historic photos and paintings lining the walls, a brightly-colored papier maché carousel horse dangling rakishly from the ceiling, and what is surely the Keys’ largest paddle fan. With its small main dining room and purposely funky brick-floored courtyard, the restaurant calls to mind Key West’s earlier days — and that’s exactly how the patrons like it.

Stop by for breakfast, lunch, courtyard cocktails, and homestyle dinners that include an amazing dish of steak smothered in pork chops, and discover Pepe’s historic magic for yourself.

Topics: Food, History, Key West, Local Color, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

The dog days of summer are just around the corner. The Romans referred to the dog days as diēs caniculārēs, and they were believed to be an evil time when the sea boiled, the wine turned sour, dogs grew mad, and all other creatures became languid. In the summer Sirius, the Dog Star, rises and sets with the sun.

"Blog Dog" Guilio chills out during the dog days with blog author Steve Smith (right) and a pal.

In Key West, we celebrate the dog days with Tropical Heat. Beginning Aug. 16, this event for the guys features boiling seas (okay, not really!), snorkeling, kayaking, pool parties, toga parties, drag shows, steamy late-night gatherings and Gay Bingo.

This event is celebrated at different venues across the island, each with its own personality and flavor. The Blu Q offers daily snorkel and kayaking adventures complete with all snorkel gear, beverages and lunch. They also have daily sunset sails that welcome gay men, women, friends and families.

Big Ruby’s kicks off the Tropical Heat weekend with the “Una Noche Caliente!” clothing-optional meet-and-greet party. Starting at 6 p.m., look for a great DJ, open bar and catered hors d’oeuvres. Tour the gardens and hop in the pool or Jacuzzi to cool off (or raise the temperature!). After the party, cross Duval Street to Club Aqua for the “Reality is a Drag” show followed by dancing to the music of a resident DJ.

Tropical Heat features a warm welcome and fun ranging from pool parties to late-night soirees. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Business Guild)

Friday’s Splash pool party at Bourbon St. Pub’s garden bar will be filled with games, fun, DJ Neil, and a chance to soak up some Key West sunshine at the pool. Then grab your toga and stroll down Fleming Street to the Equator Resort for “Toga in the Tropics.” This annual party includes prizes for the most creative and the most revealing togas, and we will crown “Mr. Toga 2012.”

Between these fun events, sample some of the terrific restaurants Key West offers. The Key West Business Guild has a great listing of places to dine across the island.

Among them is Nine One Five, located at 915 Duval in a historic Victorian house and offering meals prepared by Chef Stuart Kemp, who was twice invited to serve his cuisine for the members of New York’s prestigious James Beard Foundation. (Inside tip: Nine One Five has specially priced appetizers and libations during happy hour.)

Bingo games on Sundays, directed by the lovely and talented Q Mitch, are among the reasons to come to Key West in any season.

Since 1971, Louie’s Backyard has offered oceanfront dining and a Caribbean/American menu. Sample Chef Doug Shook’s cuisine, seasoned with culinary influences from around the world and served on the restaurant’s multi-level oceanfront deck. From fresh Key West pink shrimp to chorizo-stuffed Berkshire pork, there are dishes to tempt every palate.

Tropical Heat’s Saturday and Sunday schedule is filled with dancing on four dance floors at Bourbon St. Pub with DJ/VJ Gary Nolan, foam parties, pool parties at the Island House and Gay Bingo at the 801 Cabaret with our own Q Mitch Jones.

Before you head home, try breakfast at Croissants de France. Now celebrating 25 years in Key West, this favorite eatery features authentic French pastries, soups, and sandwiches served in a tropical courtyard.

I’m on the move this month too. Look for me in Las Vegas at the National Lesbian & Gay Journalists Association convention Aug. 2-4, and at Northalsted Market Days in Chicago Aug. 11-12. See you next time, when I’ll talk about Womenfest 2012!

Topics: Events, Festivals, Food, Key West, LGBT, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

Chocolate’s rich, dark history dates back 2,000 years according to historians, but visitors to Key Largo are discovering a newfound love of cocoa confections thanks to the talents of Kristie Thomas. As well as being the culinary creator behind Key Largo Chocolates, she’s currently the only chocolatier in the Florida Keys.

A passionate chocolatier, Kristie makes many appearances at Keys festivals with her truffles. (Photos courtesy of Key Largo Chocolates)

Kristie has a passion for baking Key lime cakes and crafting chocolate shells into a creative niche for truffles, each handmade from natural ingredients including the best chocolate from around the globe.

Much of the world’s cacao comes from areas within 20 degrees of the equator, she reports, and one of her favorite cacao products is Machu Picchu from Peru.

Kristie’s husband Bob oversees the company’s marketing, handling custom orders and special events. He refers to his wife’s superbly sweet talents as having “panache with ganache.”

Key Largo Chocolates, located at mile marker 100.5 bayside, grew out of Kristie’s success with her first love — Key lime cakes. Not a professional baker, she attended cake school for cake design and decorating, and dabbled in making her daughter’s Key lime wedding cake in addition to decorative and delectable chocolate seashells.

At a flavor university, Kristie trained among researchers for Kellogg’s, Quaker Oats and candy companies to detect flavor notes and tastes. That training helped develop her ability to balance the cocoa with yummy additions of Ké Ké Key Lime Liquor, bourbon, whiskey and secret spices.

Kristie’s neat-as-a-button chocolate factory and store delight the senses.

In addition to her numerous “everyday” truffles, Kristie concocts seasonal treats that include a dizzying array of flavorful fudges, toffees and specialty barks made with peppermint, cream, pralines and hazelnuts.

A while back, her “pumpkin-pie-less” spiced truffle even won first place in the dessert category at the annual Key Largo Cookoff. However, there’s no pumpkin in it — just secret spices.

The Key Largo kudo is not the only award Kristie has won. Her Key lime truffles placed second in a nationwide taste competition in Atlantic City, behind an offering from the Ruth’s Kris steakhouse conglomerate.

“We’re just a little chocolate company,” Kristie said modestly. “We’ve grown in leaps and bounds, and we enter contests and festivals as often as we can to help our growth spurts.”

Her Key lime confections include freshly squeezed, locally grown limes. With the help of a pastry chef, she creates six- and eight-inch Key lime cakes and cupcakes in addition to rum cakes, a flavor favorite. Her passion for working with chocolate runs as deep.

Kristie says keeping the chocolate for her truffles tempered, or at a temperature ideal for its sheen and consistency, is a challenge in the humid climate of the subtropical Florida Keys since chocolate can absorb moisture.

Kristie has mastered how to temper her chocolate and create beautifully flavored seashells with an attractive sheen.

“To make up to 300 truffles a day, the chocolate needs to be perfect,” she said. With air conditioning and dehumidifiers, she manages to keep her kitchen near a cool 68 degrees.

Entering Kristie’s vibrant store, visitors are greeted by a daunting display of aromatic chocolates to choose from — each a shiny melt-in-your-mouth nugget of heaven. Packaged in lovely boxes, the truffles tempt customers to sneak a sample even before they make it out the door. Plus, the emporium offers ice cream.

In addition, some Upper Keys hotels as well as Key Largo and Islamorada retail stores carry Key Largo Chocolates. Patrons at Key Largo restaurants might also be fortunate enough to find a mousse-filled chocolate seashell on the dessert specials menu.

No matter where her morsels are found, Kristie Thomas aims to please. She delights in the satisfied faces of her customers that testify how irresistible her creations can be.

“People like to treat themselves,” she summed up. “People love chocolates.”

Topics: Food, Key Largo, Local Color, Profiles, Voices Main Archive

The Easter season is upon us (where does the time go?) and Key West is decked out accordingly. Between my travels promoting the Florida Keys, I try to stop in at the Easter parties up and down the streets and enjoy the special “Easter Bonnet” brunch on Easter Sunday at La Te Da.

The confections at Key West Cakes are almost too pretty to eat! (Photo by Steve Smith)

Then I like to stop in at Key West Cakes, a local favorite on White Street, to sample their signature cupcakes decorated to please both the kids and the grownups. Owners Paul and Steven serve up specialty cakes, tarts, cookies, and the best “chicken pot pie” ever. They feature a wide variety of flavors and even offer tastings of their goods. If you’re visiting for a birthday, anniversary or honeymoon, explore their website and order an unforgettable confectionery.

If you’re in Key West between April 20 and 29, be sure to check out the schedule of events for our 30th annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration. Planned highlights include a Drag Race, a Bed Race, a pet stroll, the “World’s Longest Parade” that stretches from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico, and a sea battle starring beautiful tall ships.

In the middle of this fun, April 23 brings the 17th annual Taste of Key West benefiting AIDS Help, our community-based AIDS service organization. Attendees can sample delicacies from more than 50 restaurants, plus over 100 wines, at the historic Truman Waterfront — and stroll among hundreds of locals and visitors as the sun sets over the Gulf of Mexico.

Key West's beloved Q Mitch debuts his Easter outfit -- and we're pretty sure you won't see another one like it anytime soon!

Featured eateries include the Stoned Crab at Ibis Bay Resort, where boats unload their fresh catch just 14 feet from the kitchen; the Island House Café, where food is prepared by the resort’s handsome staff; Shanna Key Irish Pub, and Drew and Michael’s acclaimed AZUR Restaurant. Best of all, you’ll be able to pick your favorites to visit during your stay in Key West.

After the Taste, catch “Short Attention Span Theatre” at the Red Barn and enjoy a mix of fresh 10-minute plays. Back by popular demand, this grouping will have you laughing, crying, and wishing the evening would never end.

Getting back to my travels, I recently attended the annual ITB Travel Trade Show.

Each year, this weeklong event brings more than 172,000 visitors to network with more than 10,600 exhibitors from 180 countries.

During this year’s event, I participated on a gay travel panel discussing how gay and lesbian tourism has become a driver of structural change in destinations. A group of over 200 travel professionals and media representatives attended the presentation, which included this enticing video showcasing Key West.

Blog author Steve (right) and his partner Paul enjoy some free time during a previous IGLTA convention.

This week I will join the board of directors and other members of the International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association for their annual convention being held in Florianopolis, Brazil. I’ve served for many years on the board of directors, and am both past president and treasurer of this growing travel organization.

From its humble beginnings in Key West in 1983 with about 25 members, the association now has more than 2,200 members from 85 countries. Look for its new consumer website coming in mid-April.

And finally, look for me April 15 at Miami Beach Pride, beachside on Ocean Drive in South Beach. We’ll share some Keys magic with you under our tent!

Topics: Arts, Events, Festivals, Food, LGBT