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Keys Highlights

The Wandering ‘Flower Dog’

My husband and I got married in a Florida Keys park beside the Atlantic Ocean, less than half a mile from the home we still share.

Was it the bride or the groom that the passing angler was trying to rescue from matrimony? We'll never know. (Photo by Richard Watherwax)

We wanted a simple wedding, one that reflected the easygoing way we live. We had no idea that our ceremony would be serendipitously blessed by a pod of dolphins frolicking just offshore, or that our golden retriever “flower dog” would unexpectedly abandon his duties and take off, tail wagging, for the nearby beach — followed by our startled four-year-old flower girl.

And we certainly didn’t expect that a sport fishing boat would motor by and one of its anglers would offer us a wedding-day message.

Spotting the celebratory crowd, and a man and woman obviously about to tie the knot, he cupped his hands around his mouth and hollered across the water, “It’s not too late — JUMP! We’ll pick you up!”

Was he trying to rescue my husband-to-be from the perils of matrimony? Or me? We’ve laughed about the incident many times since that day, but we’ll never know.

Actually, we’ve laughed about a number of offbeat wedding occurrences (including the wandering flower dog). Though we could have held our ceremony practically anywhere in the U.S. or Caribbean, we know our beloved Keys were the perfect spot.

Couples in love can have a dolphin for their "best man" at Islamorada's Theater of the Sea. (Photo courtesy of Theater of the Sea)

We’re far from alone; the Florida Keys are one of the country’s top wedding destinations.

Why? For one thing, the attitude is very easygoing and informal — which means much of the stress of typical wedding planning simply doesn’t happen. Terrific planners can be found from Key Largo to Key West to handle every detail.

Plus, a visit to the Keys is generally regarded as a lighthearted vacation occasion for the entire wedding group — so the experience of the wedding becomes a unique, eagerly anticipated occasion for everyone involved.

And once the wedding party and guests arrive, they’ll be happily entertained. So many activities can be arranged for family and friends — from deep-sea fishing to tall ship sailing excursions to salon services — that the bride and groom don’t need to worry about taking care of their guests. Instead, they can focus on the deepening of their relationship and their lives together.

Another plus is that, while the Keys certainly host formal weddings, many are delightfully informal. The “tux and unflattering bridesmaids’ dress” cliché simply doesn’t have to apply.

What could be more romantic than a horse-drawn carriage as your wedding transportation? (Photo courtesy of Island Horse Drawn Carriage, Inc.)

Shorts or khakis for men and pretty sundresses for women are popular wedding attire, making the wedding a more laid-back and comfortable experience for the whole group (and eliminating the cost of an item that’s worn only once).

And the food options couldn’t be better — whether gourmet or waterfront casual. Many Keys restaurants overlook marinas, beaches or world-class sunset spots, and can easily accommodate groups.

Imagine a reception menu of fresh local seafood: sweet Key West pink shrimp and stone crab claws, conch fritters and chowder, Key lime pie and dishes with a Caribbean or Cuban flair.

Naturally, more traditional cuisine is also available — and trust me, Keys caterers are happy to provide full onsite service at wedding hotspots like Key West’s Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum.

Golden retrievers make excellent "flower dogs" for Keys weddings -- unless they wander off! (Photo courtesy of Crystal Ruffo)

Looking for a setting for intriguing wedding photos? Try the water’s edge with a famed Keys sunset as the backdrop, a historic Civil War-era fort, the Southernmost Point that marks the southernmost spot of land in the continental U.S., or the tiny island of Pigeon Key beneath the Old Seven Mile Bridge near Marathon.

Or pose in a horse-drawn carriage on an Islamorada beach, or cruising on Key Largo’s restored African Queen (yes, the actual boat used in the classic Bogart film).

In fact, if you’re making wedding plans of any kind, consider saying your “I Dos” in the Keys. Just remember to avoid wandering anglers — and keep an eye on your flower dog!

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Mel Fisher, a ‘Treasured’ Senior

“Today’s the day!” That was the cry of Mel Fisher every day as he and his dedicated crew searched for the shipwreck of the Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha, sunk in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico in 1622.

Adventurer Mel Fisher, discoverer of the shipwrecked Spanish galleon Atocha, proved that the American dream is thriving -- at least in the Keys. (Photo provided by Mel Fisher's Treasures)

Key West has become known as a locale where age discrimination is non-existent. And well it might — what with residents of all ages owning businesses, chartering fishing boats, and taking part in virtually all the activities of the island. One of the most adventurous seniors ever to live and work in Key West was Mel Fisher.

Mel and his crew had been searching in Keys waters for the Atocha without success until, in 1971 they found a Spanish anchor. The search continued with limited but encouraging results — until 1975, when Mel’s son Kane found a silver bar whose numbers identified it with the manifest of the Spanish galleon. They knew they were on the right track to discover the fabled shipwreck and the treasures and artifacts it held.

And discover it they did, after ten more years of searching. On July 20, 1985, when Mel Fisher was 63 years old, his crew uncovered a reef of silver bars. They had found the Atocha at last!

Recovering the treasures and artifacts, and performing painstaking underwater archaeology on the site, went on for many years. In fact, Mel himself continued diving until the age of 76. Riches beyond anyone’s expectations, and historic artifacts that were equally important, were discovered at the wrecksite of the Spanish galleon.

Mel and Deo Fisher were early SCUBA pioneers before they became shipwreck seekers. (Photo provided by Mel Fisher's Treasures)

Mel Fisher was born in Hobart, Indiana — an unlikely place to spawn an expert deep-sea diver. Some claim he was influenced by Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Treasure Island.” In any event, he was fascinated by the brand-new sport of diving and became one of its pioneers.

After a stint as a chicken farmer in California, Mel became enamored with diving rivers and turned his focus to the dive business. He and wife Deo opened a dive shop, and Mel expanded his efforts to dive on shipwrecks.

He developed a fascination with shipwreck salvage, which eventually led him to Florida and the Keys. The rest is history.

The Mel Fisher Maritime Museum in Key West is the resting place for many of the priceless objects Mel found. There visitors can learn more about the discovery of the Atocha and the Santa Margarita, another galleon from Spain’s 1622 fleet, and view treasure ranging from gold bars to contraband emeralds. Located at 200 Greene St., the museum is open 365 days a year.

A diver examines gold bars and chains on the site of the Nuestra Se–nora de Atocha shipwreck about 35 miles off Key West. (Photo by Pat Clyne/Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

In honor of the illustrious Mel Fisher, who died in 1998, a festival called Mel Fisher Days is held each year to celebrate his historic discovery. This year’s celebration is scheduled for July 11-14 with events including a costume contest, block party, “treasure brunch” and a meet-and-greet with crewmembers who helped salvage the legendary shipwreck.

Ever the dreamer, the optimist, and a model of perseverance, the late Mel Fisher is an inspiration to seniors. His motto of “Today’s the Day!” is a valuable reminder that each day can bring excitement, promise, and treasure — as long as you have the vision to look for it.  

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Key West’s African Refugee Cemetery: A Sacred Site on Higgs Beach

Visitors to Key West’s Higgs Beach might not pay much attention to the small rectangle of beachfront fenced off from the rest and flanked by tall columns.

A site that experts believe is the only African refugee cemetery in the U.S. stands on Key West's Higgs Beach.

But if they don’t, they’re missing the chance to view an incredible piece of America’s past: a site that experts believe is the only African refugee cemetery in the entire U.S.

The cemetery’s importance was recognized in 2012, when it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places as a nationally significant archaeological site.

Its location was actually confirmed 10 years earlier — when a survey using ground-penetrating radar revealed the presence of graves on the county-owned beach.

According to Corey Malcom, director of archeology for the Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Society, the graves are almost certainly those of Africans who died in 1860. The Africans were brought to Key West for sanctuary after the U.S. Navy freed them from three American-owned slave ships captured near the Cuban coast.

“This is not a slave cemetery; it’s a cemetery of African refugees. I don’t know of any comparable sites in the New World,” said Corey Malcom, whose research and that of Florida Keys historian Gail Swanson led to the cemetery site’s discovery.

Archaeologist Corey Malcom, shown here conserving a shipwreck artifact, is committed to telling the Africans' story. (Photo by Dylan Kibler, courtesy of the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

According to records kept by U.S. Marshal Fernando Moreno in 1860, more than 1,400 African men, women and children were brought to Key West after being rescued from the slave vessels. Key West workers quickly built housing and a hospital for them, demonstrating the caring spirit still evident on the island today.

Most of the refugees were eventually returned to Africa. Sadly, 295 of them died in Key West, probably from illnesses resulting from the brutal conditions aboard the slave ships. They were buried in unmarked graves along the island’s southern shore.

Two years later, construction began on a martello tower that included part of the cemetery site. Eventually, the graves were forgotten.

In 2001, after research revealed that the “lost” cemetery was located somewhere in the Higgs Beach area, the Key West African Memorial Committee and the Old Island Restoration Foundation unveiled a Florida historic plaque opposite the beach to tell the refugees’ story.

Dr. Conyers points out digital evidence of graves revealed during his ground-penetrating radar survey. (Photo courtesy of the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

In June 2002, hoping to pinpoint the cemetery’s exact location — without disturbing any possible traces of human remains — Corey Malcom called in Dr. Lawrence Conyers of Denver, an expert in the use of ground-penetrating radar.

During a three-day survey of Higgs Beach and the adjacent martello tower area, Dr. Conyers was able to discover evidence of at least nine graves, and possibly as many as 15. This was positive confirmation of the cemetery’s location.

Since that momentous discovery, African tribal dignitaries have performed ceremonies at the site to reconsecrate the ground and honor the buried Africans. In addition, the Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Society created a major exhibition about the refugees and their poignant history.

In 2010, additional surveys revealed at least 100 more graves in the area.

The cemetery is now marked by a memorial featuring pedestals bearing African symbols. (Photo courtesy of the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

Today, the cemetery is marked by a group of pedestals adorned with African Adinkra symbols and topped with engraved bronze plaques. A concrete base features a rendition of the slave trade’s maritime route, and a tile mural is inlaid into the platform riser. Ornamental fencing encloses the site on three sides.

Together, these elements reflect the cultures of the people buried in the cemetery — and how they came to be so far from home. Those who care about the site hope eventually to add a traditional African-inspired shrine structure and an obelisk that functions as a sundial.

After more than 15 years of research and effort, Key West’s African refugee cemetery is recognized as a sacred heritage site. Even more important, the Africans buried there are remembered and honored … as they so richly deserve.

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Rick Hederstrom Tells the ‘Plant’ Truth

Career paths are rarely preordained. Instead, they might develop around hobbies, interests and learned skills until an opportunity appears that’s a perfect fit. That’s what happened for Rick Hederstrom.

Rick Hederstrom has found a fulfilling career as the ethnobotanist at Key Largo's beautiful Kona Kai Resort, Gallery and Botanic Gardens. (Photos courtesy of Rick Hederstrom)

Rick started out as a young golf-pro-hopeful and detoured into drafting car designs.

But his life changed completely when he came across the owners of Key Largo’s Kona Kai Resort, Gallery and Botanic Gardens — and he became their first-ever resident ethnobotanist.

Rick had actually gotten his degree in ethnobotany, the study of the relationships that exist between plants and people, at prestigious Connecticut College. Through what he called divine intervention, he received enough financial grants to fully cover the staggering $43,000 yearly tuition.

Grounded in a strong Catholic faith and kinship with the outdoors and nature, Rick is fascinated with the healing qualities of plants. That led him to pursue ethnobotany, figuring it had more long-term career potential than practicing on golf greens or drawing concept cars indoors at a drafting table.

“I was initially most interested in plants’ usefulness as medicine and perhaps playing a role in developing new treatments and cures from plants,” he said.

During garden tours, Rick explains the origins and uses for many tropical plants -- including the unusual pitcher plant that's considered a carnivore.

When the chance came to study abroad in his junior year, he wound up in the Peruvian Andes and rainforest for three months — immersed in fieldwork with the people of Cuzco and the outlying lowlands, learning how they used plants in everyday life.

“For [Peruvians], the use of plants is a very serious ritual experience and forms the basis of their world view,” Rick explained. “Ayahuasca, a mixture of certain plants, is intensely spiritual, hallucinogenic and is conducive to a positive healing or state of peace.” 

The Botanic Gardens at Kona Kai strive to blend enrichment, enlightenment, education and enjoyment. Today, as the facility’s associate director, Rick offers insights to visitors into the crucial roles plants play in our survival.

Guests touring the gardens learn that each living, breathing organism has a name, a story to tell and a complexity and beauty beyond being just a lovely green object. They also can sample delicious fruits he selects from the tropical fruit garden.

“Coconut water from the coconut palms’ fruit provides a valuable source of fresh water, and can substitute as intravenous fluid for hydration,” Rick said, “because it is sterile and has the right balance of minerals and electrolytes.”

Rick skilfully mixes electronic music when he indulges his "hidden passion" for deejaying.

As well as sharing his knowledge, his job includes inventorying the gardens’ plant collections, photographing and noting their condition as well as their flowering and fruiting, and choosing new plants to be added to the collections as planning continues for the facility’s future. He also pens a blog titled “The Diary of the Botanic Gardens at Kona Kai.”

Rick spends much of his free time at home in spiritual or religious reading, prayer and meditation, or attending Mass and participating in activities at the Upper Keys’ San Pedro Catholic Church.

On another note, he admits to a whimsical desire to deejay in the Keys, mixing a variety of electronic music. But for now, he’s satisfied with motorcycle rides, exercising and spending time around the water.

“I feel great when I am outdoors, in communion with nature — God’s manifestation in its purest form,” he said.

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The ‘Amazing Race’ of 1913

Legions of contemporary television viewers are obsessed by episodes of the wildly popular reality show “The Amazing Race.” Chances are, though, they don’t realize that May 2013 marks the 100th anniversary of one of the most amazing races in history.

Key West aviator Agustin Parla was one of the two competitors in "The Amazing Race" of 1913. (Image courtesy of Alex Pascual)

The year was 1913 and the place was Key West — and the race was a competition between two early aviators to make the first flight from Key West to Havana, Cuba.

The competitors were Domingo Rosillo, who was born in Algeria and lived mostly in Spain, and Key West native Agustin Parla, whose father owned a toy store and had been a friend of Cuban patriot Jose Marti. According to Alex Pascual, author of a new book on Key West’s Cuban heritage, Parla graduated from Miami’s Curtis School of Aviation in 1912 — becoming the first Key Wester ever to be certified as an airline pilot.

Naturally, when the city of Havana and the Curtis School announced a competition to determine who would become the first pilot to fly from Key West to Havana, Parla jumped at the chance to compete.

So did Rosillo. By May 17, 1913, each had acquired a plane and both were ready to attempt the flight — estimated at about 110 miles. As well as the honor of making the first crossing, they were vying for a $10,000 prize. 

This postcard commemorates Parla's historic May 19 flight from Key West to Cuba. (Image courtesy of Alex Pascual)

Around 5:10 a.m., Rosillo took off from Key West, battling significant winds in a plane some had reportedly dubbed “the motorized kite.”

About 45 minutes later Parla followed — but encountered mechanical problems almost immediately and was forced to return, ending his attempt.

Rosillo flew onward. Just over 2.5 hours later he landed in Havana, winning “The Amazing Race” and sparking wild celebrations.

Agustin Parla, however, was determined to repair his plane and complete the journey. On May 19, carrying a Cuban flag that Jose Marti had flown at Key West events, he took off for Havana without telling a soul. Though he narrowly avoided a crash landing, he reached Mariel, Cuba, and accomplished his goal.

The race of 1913 wasn’t the end of Key West’s pioneering role in flight. In 1927, the island was the birthplace of one-time aviation giant Pan American Airlines. And before that, it was home to Aeromarine Airways.

John Richmond, owner of the Conch Flyer at Key West International Airport, points out some early aviation memorabilia at the Flyer. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In 1920, Aeromarine began America’s first official international airmail service, between Key West and Havana. Aeromarine also inaugurated America’s first scheduled international passenger service — and strangely enough, passengers and sacks of mail were charged the same fare for the trip.

Pan Am’s first international flight was as dramatic as the race between Rosillo and Parla. 

By Oct. 11, 1927, the fledgling airline possessed a contract with the U.S. Post Office to deliver mail between Key West and Havana — but that contract required the first load of letters to be delivered by Oct. 19.

Unfortunately, Pan Am’s planes hadn’t arrived in Key West (despite being ordered 18 months earlier). Luckily, a seaplane pilot named Cy Caldwell was persuaded to make the flight.

Passengers on a recent celebratory flight receive a lively welcome at Key West International Airport. (Photo by Carol Tedesco, Florida Keys News Bureau)

At 8:04 a.m. Oct. 19, he left Key West with seven sacks of mail holding approximately 30,000 letters.

And while his journey made history as Pan Am’s first “official” flight, it was so brief that he landed in Havana about an hour before the cable announcing his departure arrived.

Today, Key West’s unique place in aviation history is widely recognized — as is intrepid airman Agustin Parla.

Years after “The Amazing Race” with Rosillo, he helped develop the island’s Meacham Field, which later evolved into Key West International Airport. Fittingly, in 1957, a bust memorializing Parla’s accomplishments was installed in a place of honor at the airport.  

(Heartfelt thanks to Alex Pascual for providing the background information about Agustin Parla and Domingo Rosillo.)

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Celebrate Bogie’s Best in Key Largo (Where Else?)

Fans of one of America’s most iconic big-screen legends will gather May 2-5 at the Humphrey Bogart Film Festival, where they’ll enjoy four days of immersion in all things Bogart. And what better place to honor the late actor than in the location of one of his greatest films: the beautiful island of Key Largo at the head of the Florida Keys?

Film fans are flocking to celebrate an American screen legend on the island that gave its name to one of his cinema classics.

The inaugural event doesn’t just have a fitting setting; it’s also timed to mark 65 years since the premiere of “Key Largo,” starring Bogart and his wife Lauren Bacall. And its host is none other than Stephen Bogart, the legendary duo’s son.

Actually, the Key Largo festival is the only event of its kind ever to be sanctioned by the Bogart estate. It’s even being produced by the estate, partnering with the Key Largo Chamber of Commerce.

The festivities officially kick off Thursday, May 2, with an evening cocktail reception hosted by Stephen Bogart — joined by renowned film critic Leonard Maltin — at the Murray E. Nelson Government and Cultural Center in Key Largo. Following the reception, film buffs can savor an outdoor waterfront screening of (naturally!) Bogie and Bacall’s “Key Largo.”

For the next couple of days, guests can attend screenings of Bogart classics and other landmark movies from the film noir genre. In-theater showings are planned, as are outdoor screenings under the stars in Key Largo’s balmy subtropical climate.

And the film selection is enough to make a fan drool in anticipation.

Festival guests can cruise on the African Queen, the original vessel from director John Huston's 1951 film. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Among the highlights are “Casablanca,” “The Big Sleep,” “Dark Passage,” “The African Queen,” “The Maltese Falcon,” and non-Bogart offerings like “Double Indemnity” and “Body Heat.”

But the festival is about far more than viewing films — enticing as they are. Additional attractions include cruises on the original African Queen, the actual boat used in the famed Bogart film. Now registered as a national historic site and home-ported in Key Largo, the African Queen was relaunched in 2012 after a $70,000 restoration.

Want to party in the style of Bogie and Bacall? Then the elegant Casablanca-themed Bogart Ball, hosted by Stephen Bogart on Saturday, May 4, is the place to be. Happening at the Hilton Key Largo Resort, it begins with a red-carpet cocktail reception. After that, gala-goers can savor the flavors of a three-course Moroccan-themed dinner and dance the night away.

The red carpet, by the way, will be walked by a modern-day star: Jack Huston of HBO’s “Boardwalk Empire.” He’s the grandson of legendary film director, screenwriter and actor John Huston, and he will receive an award recognizing the longtime professional partnership between his grandfather and Bogart.

Stephen Bogart is the enthusiastic host of the film festival honoring his father's work. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

John Huston’s first directing role came with “The Maltese Falcon,” starring Bogart as the film noir detective Sam Spade. He and Huston became lifelong friends and worked together on other films including “The Treasure of the Sierra Madre,” “The African Queen,” and of course “Key Largo.”

During the ball, Stephen Bogart and Leonard Maltin will present a replica of the famed falcon statuette from “The Maltese Falcon” to Jack Huston.

“It is wonderful that Jack Huston will accept the festival award in recognition of the large role John Huston played in the life and career of my father,” stated Stephen Bogart.

Want to know more about Key Largo’s one-of-a-kind Bogart celebration? Click here to purchase tickets, book accommodations, reserve space on an African Queen cruise and much more.

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Pigeon Key: Tranquil Islet, Vibrant History

Only the most senior of us senior citizens are old enough to remember Pigeon Key in its historic glory — but we all can visit the tiny island, which lies underneath the Old Seven Mile Bridge in the Middle Keys. And it’s well worth a visit, since there are very few sites as important in the history and development of the Florida Keys.

History buffs can visit the former Over-Sea Railroad work camp at Pigeon Key, lying beneath the historic Old Seven Mile Bridge. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The islet’s first claim to fame came during the construction of the Keys extension of the Florida East Coast Railroad, Henry Flagler’s ambitious undertaking that became known as the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. Work on this massive project — a railroad whose track stretched nearly 100 miles “out to sea” to connect the Keys with mainland Florida and each other for the first time — began in 1905, but it was not completed until 1912.

One of the most challenging parts of Flagler’s enterprise was the construction of the Seven Mile Bridge just west and south of Marathon. For that, he needed workers and a place to house them. Pigeon Key was the ideal spot, so a construction camp was built to house several hundred workers.

When the railroad was completed, Pigeon Key became home to the maintenance workers. Its amenities included permanent homes, a school for children of married personnel and even a post office.

Pigeon Key's restored historic structures and tranquil atmosphere offer visitors a glimpse of the Over-Sea Railroad era. (Photo courtesy of the Pigeon Key Foundation)

Everything went according to plan after the railroad’s completion until the devastating hurricane of 1935. Instead of restoring the heavily damaged railroad, the powers that be decided to construct a two-lane road through the Keys to Key West. At that time, the U.S. was still in the throes of the Great Depression and the government sent hundreds of men to Pigeon Key to give them jobs building the road. 

Once completed, the highway served the Keys well. Many of the original bridges were modernized or replaced in the 1980s. I traveled the “new highway” all the way to Key West in its infancy, and I marveled at the construction miracles the workers had achieved.

Today Pigeon Key is thriving as home to the Pigeon Key Foundation, a non-profit organization founded in 1992 to preserve the cultural history of the Keys. Its Pigeon Key Marine Science Center oversees many educational programs.

The early homes have been restored, and the former home of one of the officials how houses a museum, with exhibits from the days of the former railroad and the original highway.

Educational programs are high on the list of the foundation’s projects, and daily guided tours are offered for visitors of all ages.

Pigeon Key has recently adopted solar power for its energy needs -- using today's technology to enhance the historic setting. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Believe me, touring the windswept island will make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time, becoming part of the simpler lifestyle that characterized the Keys decades ago. 

For a relaxing getaway, you can stay at the Pigeon Key guesthouse, a comfortable building that’s listed on the National List of Historic Places. The guesthouse sleeps 10, with two baths, a living room, and a kitchen. It’s a great place for a multi-generation family vacation, or for a group of friends to get together and reconnect in a tranquil, slow-paced setting.

For many years Pigeon Key could be accessed on foot across the Old Seven Mile Bridge. However, that avenue is now closed, and the only way to reach the historic island is by a short ferry ride from Knight’s Key. The ferry is an easier way for seniors to travel and is a delightful trip.

When Henry Flagler completed his railroad and realized his dream, he opened up the Florida Keys as a recreational area for people from around the United States and around the world. Those of us who love the island chain, whether as residents or eager visitors, will be forever glad he did!

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Art Strolls Spotlight Key West’s Exuberance and Spirit

The offbeat (and totally wonderful) island of Key West is characterized by a freewheeling exuberance and zest for life, spiced by a healthy irreverence — qualities that are mirrored in much of the visual art created in the unique spot. You can view the art, and meet the creative spirits behind it, during neighborhood art strolls held each month on the island. 

Art is ever-present in Key West -- like this large-scale gyotaku piece by Kim and Ian Workman that graces the island's airport terminal. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

These strolls offer a vibrant visual feast — and a great chance to discover off-the-beaten-path galleries that spotlight the work of established artists and nurture the growth of talented newcomers.

Depending on the event, featured pieces might range from compelling oils and bronze sculptures to whimsical collages, handcrafted jewelry and woodwork, starkly beautiful black-and-white photographs or even the unusual fish prints called gyotaku.

Probably the best known of Key West’s neighborhood art strolls is the Walk on White. It’s held on the island city’s White Street from Southard to United streets and onto Truman Avenue on the third Thursday of each month.

The popular evening features exhibitions and receptions at galleries, shops and occasionally other venues.

Openings at The Studios of Key West are among the highlights of Key West's monthly Walk on White. (Photo courtesy of TSKW)

Highlight locations include Harrison Gallery, showcasing the elegant sculptural wood pieces of Helen Harrison and the musicianship of her husband Ben Harrison; the quirky and inviting Stone Soup Gallery, whose attractions include the vibrant paintings of Sean Callahan, and The Studios of Key West, offering regular exhibitions, performances, workshops and studio space. If you turn off White onto Truman Avenue, you’ll find fine art and functional pottery at Honest Works Island Pottery and dynamic new talents, multimedia and renegade art at Art Space Key West.

The upper end of Key West’s famed Duval Street is known for its eclectic galleries — and it comes alive with art exhibitions, receptions and culinary treats during the monthly Upper Duval Street Stroll. Explore galleries, boutiques and food and wine emporiums during the event that usually takes place on the first Friday of each month.

A monthly Upper Duval Street Stroll features inviting stops like SoDu Gallery, displaying the vibrant painted tableware of Janis Childs. (Photo courtesy of SoDu)

Featured locations include SoDu Gallery, displaying the vibrant painted tableware of Janis Childs and fine jewelry of Lainie Davia among other work; Frangipani Gallery, starring the colorful paintings of founder Fran Decker and others; Cocco and Salem Imagine Art, whose finest offerings are Jim Salem’s reverent studies of birds and the natural realm; and Gingerbread Square Gallery, showing the lush rainforest canvases of Sal Salinero and much more.

And don’t miss Kate’s Studio, where Kate Peachey’s paintings are showcased alongside Karen Moore’s Zen jewelry.

Key West’s Caroline and Greene streets and Historic Seaport neighborhood form a lively art and design district, site of the Art and Ambiance Walks spotlighting galleries and merchants on the first Thursday of each month. 

As well as the work of Sanchez and MacNelly, Gallery on Greene features Peter Vey's vivid artistry. (Photo courtesy of Gallery on Greene)

The most delightful stops are Gallery on Greene, whose vivid artistry includes the humor-filled images of Pulitzer Prize winner Jeff MacNelly and the painted bas-relief wood carvings of iconic Cuban-American folk artist Mario Sanchez; Lucky Street Gallery, with featured artists such as renowned sculptor John Martini and painter Rick Worth, and Art@830, where collections range from fine glasswork and jewelry to colorful paintings and wood art.

In addition to these worthwhile events, periodic group art and museum events take place in the Mallory Square area. They generally include exhibits and openings at the Key West Art Center, Custom House Museum, Harry S. Truman Little White House and Audubon House & Tropical Gardens.

Want to know more about the lively galleries, inspired artists and overall cultural scene in Key West and the Florida Keys? Just click here or here for the full picture! 

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Secede from the Real World — in the Conch Republic!

For much of the United States, summer typically kicks off Memorial Day weekend with parties, cook-outs, bar events, and friends gathering to toast the end of winter and the advent of warm weather and lazy days.

Military re-enactors stage a sea battle between two historic tall ships in the waters off "Fort Elizabeth Taylor."

Here in Key West we do recognize Memorial Day, but we usher in our summer with the Conch Republic Independence Celebration.

In a previous blog, I mentioned that a 1982 U.S. Border Patrol roadblock at the head of the Florida Keys Overseas Highway — and the subsequent searching of all vehicles leaving the Keys — led to our secession from the United States and the formation of the Conch Republic. We mark the anniversary each year with our very own festival of independence. 

This Friday, April 19, we raise the “colors” and take over Fort Zachary Taylor, (which we refer to as Fort Elizabeth Taylor). The fort, by the way, is part of a beautiful state park that contains the locals’ favorite beach.

When you visit Fort Elizabeth Taylor, a small admission fee gives you access to the beach, the park and picnic grounds, and the historic Civil War fort. During the Civil War, Key West was a Union outpost and three forts were constructed here.  

Discover the tranquil waterfront oasis created by the Key West Garden Club on the grounds of historic Fort West Martello. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Garden Club)

One of them is Fort East Martello, now a museum operated by the Key West Art and Historical Society. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, East Martello houses the famous possessed doll, Robert. 

West Martello Tower, another pre-Civil War fort, today is the home of the Key West Garden Club.  It’s open daily, so you can stop by and tour the gardens. 

Several annual plant and orchid shows are held here. I stock up on my orchids, and bromeliads at great prices!

While they were never completed and never saw combat, the Martello Towers played a part in housing troops and signaling, and were lookout posts.

Getting back to our independence celebration, we gather for block parties, a battle in the harbor, the famous Drag Race on Saturday, April 20, and the Red Ribbon Bed Race on the following Saturday, April 27.  

For some added color, we throw in the annual Conch Cruiser Car Show, set for Sunday, April 21, at the Schooner Wharf Bar. This is not your typical classic automobile show, but a mix of creative autos, bikes, motorcycles, and vehicles with one to four wheels that make for unique photo opportunities.

Even NBC "Today" weatherman Al Roker (left) and anchor Matt Lauer are fans of the irreverent Conch Republic. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

On Thursday, April 25, the so-called World’s Longest Parade steps off on Duval Street somewhere around 8 p.m. This exuberant promenade draws the Conch Republic’s militia and supporters — plus a potpourri of pirates, wenches, the Sons of Italy, and a sprinkling of our elected officials.

It’s easy to visit during the Conch Republic Independence Celebration. Flight, driving, and lodging information is available on the Florida Keys website; lodging information can also be found on the Key West Business Guild website.

If you can’t make the celebration, check the calendar for upcoming events in Key West and the Florida Keys. There’s always something fun happening on the islands that will sweep you away from reality and change your perspective on life. 

In fact, many of us here came for a visit and soon packed our stuff and relocated to the Conch Republic. Just ask people you meet; we all have great stories about how we ended up living on the continental United States’ southernmost — and most wonderful — island.

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Andrea Paulson: Exploring the Unspoiled Lower Keys

More than 13 years ago, Captain Andrea Paulson began exploring the Lower Keys backcountry as a weekend alternative to Key West shopping for herself and other fishermen’s wives.

Andrea Paulson's easygoing attitude and love of the Keys' ocean realm make her the perfect guide for backcountry kayak trips. (Photos courtesy of Andrea Paulson)

She discovered she loved the experience so much that it seemed only natural for her to share it with others — which led to a career and a richly rewarding life.

Today, Andrea entertains hundreds of Florida Keys visitors annually with her Reelax Charters Lower Keys backcountry kayak excursions.

A 20-year Keys resident and lifetime outdoor enthusiast, Andrea named her business Reelax Charters for her nickname “Ree” and the relaxing experience participants enjoy.

Originally from Rochester, N.Y., she grew up boating and canoeing on Lake Ontario. A true water lover, she even worked as a lifeguard on the beach.

Andrea met her husband, Bobby Paulson, while visiting a friend who owned the house he was renting.

“I came down and was expecting to meet some old salty captain,” she recalled. “We met and that was it; it was kind of love at first sight.”

Adventures in the Keys' shallows and uncharted islets await Reelax Charters' guests.

After a long-distance romance that often involved commutes back and forth from Palm Beach, she moved to the Keys permanently in 1993.

While her husband is out guiding flats-fishing trips, Andrea guides her clients on a journey by motorboat seven to nine miles off the Lower Keys. There they begin their kayak adventure in a realm of crystal clear waters, remote islands, pristine beaches, shallow flats, mangroves and more.

While exploring, kayakers enjoy an “off-the-beaten paddle experience,” discovering islands and areas unreachable by kayak alone. They might spot native Keys wildlife like great white herons, ibis, starfish, stingrays, colorful tropical fish, sea turtles and even a dolphin or two.

Offered daily by appointment from Sugarloaf Marina on Sugarloaf Key, Reelax Charters’ fully customized kayak excursions are an escape in time. Participants begin at their leisure — and Andrea doesn’t watch the clock while guests are having fun. Most tours last four to five hours and accommodate up to six people.

A few couples, clearly romanced by the natural beauty of the Florida Keys, have even gotten engaged or tied the knot on one of Andrea’s private kayak excursions.

Bobby, Andrea and puppy Clark share a moment of "reelaxation" on the water.

Families too find themselves captivated by Reelax Charters’ adventures, and the captain keeps books and literature on hand for kids to use in identifying Keys wildlife.

“I love my job, and when I’m not working I’m out exploring new areas by kayak,” Andrea admitted. “The best part (of my job) is ending the day with a hug from a customer because we’ve had so much fun together it’s almost like we’ve become best friends.”

During her free time, Andrea often finds herself kayaking, fishing with her husband and entertaining other fishermen’s wives. She also enjoys “downtime” with her husband and their yellow Labrador puppy, Clark.

Like a true Paulson, Clark loves the water. In fact, most likely he’ll be spotted exploring the Lower Keys backcountry by kayak sometime soon!

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