Talk about culture shock. I was a senior citizen when I first came to Key West to visit my daughter, who had already bridged the gap from midwestern city to the tropical island at the end of the line.

Blog author Katharine chats with world-renowned marine life artist Wyland, who lives in the Upper Keys.

The warm weather and lack of snow in midwinter were the least of the differences. Actually, I’d had enough of using the snow blower and starting the car just before going to bed in the hope that the darn thing would run in the morning.

The casual attitude (and dress) of those who lived in the Keys was a much greater change. But it was one I happily learned to live with as I returned to become a resident of the island chain.

One of the first things I noticed was the complete lack of age discrimination — or even recognition. Nineteen or 90, everyone was welcome everywhere. To paraphrase Jimmy Buffett, age in the Keys is a state of mind. To a senior from a traditional background, this was a remarkable fact.

Being in the younger stage of “seniorhood,” I was able to participate in almost everything the Keys offered. I drew the line at parasailing, but snorkeling was an enjoyable way to spend an hour or two and view the fish from another angle.

I soon noticed the scores of bicycle-riders on the streets of Key West, so one of my first stops was at a bike store. Emerging some time later, I was off to see the sights from the seat of my “conch cruiser.”

Toured by scores of visitors daily, the Hemingway property became a museum in 1964 and was recently designated a literary landmark. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

On that early adventure, there was so much to see — and so much to do. I was told that one must never leave the Keys without having something to drink at Sloppy Joe’s Bar, where Hemingway whiled away many hours and imbibed many such concoctions. Though I never planned to leave, I felt compelled to follow tradition and stop in. And speaking of Hemingway, I had to see his house, where he worked, and his six-toed cats. Just another bicycle ride down the street.

Exploring the Key West Bight, filled with shrimp boats, was another must. Today it’s filled with sailboats and excursion craft, but is still an enthralling sight.

My legs were feeling the strain of pedaling, so I returned to my car for the drive to midtown. There I was able to find Tennessee Williams’ house — which was smaller than I had anticipated, but its red shutters made it stand out.

During the next few weeks I explored Bahama Village, where some of the original Key West settlers lived. I even ventured into another watering hole, Captain Tony’s Saloon, where Tony Tarracino still held court, for an alcoholic treat.

And since then, I have never ceased marveling at the sunset, the people, and the climate of my favorite place in the world.

Katharine and her husband Joe (far right) quickly met senior (and younger) Ernest Hemingway Look-Alikes in Key West for an annual contest.

Today Key West has changed in many ways. The streets are busier, with more shops and restaurants for visitors and residents to enjoy. There are more resorts and hotels, and more visitors, who please local merchants by leaving behind a fair quantity of dollars.

And I don’t ride a bicycle anymore.

But the wonderful attitude, the laid-back lifestyle that’s truly Caribbean, remains throughout the island chain. It still doesn’t matter if you’re 20 or 90 — you’re still welcome and there’s still plenty to see and do.

The Keys lifestyle is what I will be discussing in this column during the next months. The opportunities that are here for seniors, just for the taking. The sights, the activities, and the wonderful, quirky atmosphere that belongs to the Keys and the Keys alone.

You’ll see entries from me in this space around the middle of each month — and probably more often as time goes on. So keep checking back, and keep reading!

Topics: Key West, Local Color, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive

February is bringing great groups of visitors to Key West — and for us locals, that means great energy across the island, lively nightclubs, events almost every week, fabulous live music in the bars, and an opportunity to show off our southernmost home.

Randy Roberts displays mega-talent during performances at Key West's beloved La Te Da.

For example, Pearl’s Patio is featuring Susie Comet, the Joe Tenuto Band and Chief Billy & Bob Paul. Stop in at 525 United St. and join the fun. Pearl’s Key West, a full-service resort just a block from the Atlantic Ocean, was originally a women-only property. Today, while it’s gay oriented, it now welcomes everyone at Pearl’s Patio and during guest hours.

Around the corner is La Te Da, one of our internationally famous meccas. Serving guests and locals for more than 30 years, La Te Da offers the streetside Terrace Bar, the By George Piano Par and the Crystal Bar in the upstairs cabaret.

When you’re enjoying the sounds of Dave Bootle or Debra and Patrick, you’ll want to hit the dance floor. While there you will be watched over by a 1905 tapestry of King George V hanging in a place of honor over the bar. Upstairs in the Cabaret at La Te Da, you’ll enjoy the talents of world-class impersonators during Randy Roberts LIVE and Christopher Peterson’s EYECONS. (Check the calendar so you can plan your evenings around some of the best entertainment on the island.)

Down the street, we will soon be crowning Key West’s Queen of Mardi Gras upstairs at the 801 Cabaret. At 7 p.m. Feb. 16, the pageant will kick off with great performances, gowns, and more fun than you can imagine.

Blog writer Steve Smith really sinks his teeth into Key West's activities and attractions!

Join in the Mardi Gras festivities across the street at the Bourbon St. Pub, our club that brings a taste of New Orleans to the island. After the Feb. 16 kickoff, the fun runs through a Mardi Gras Pub Crawl on Fat Tuesday, Feb. 21. As always, the event benefits a local charity, the Sister Season Fund.

If you’re looking for a slightly quieter spot for a romantic cocktail, stop by the Point5 Cocktail Club upstairs at 915 Duval. There’s a great balcony overlooking the Duval Street action, and you can savor $5 premium beverages and gourmet pizzas every day from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. Then enjoy a leisurely evening on the side porch of the dignified Victorian house-turned-restaurant, sharing plates of tapas prepared by an award-winning chef who has served his specialties for the James Beard Foundation.

For another great Key West experience, stroll down Duval Street to tiny Charles Street and the Smokin’ Tuna Saloon. One of our unique restaurant and entertainment facilities, the Tuna serves a variety of fresh seafood, oysters, dinners and starters — while top bands play live music.

The girls of Mama's Black Sheep are headed baaaaa-ck to Shanna Key.

If you feel like crossing the pond (i.e., traversing the Garrison Bight Bridge), check out Shanna Key Irish Pub, Grill, and Sports Bar. Shanna Key is the spot to watch your favorite American and European sports on two big-screen and nine HD televisions.

On Wednesday, Feb. 22, the hot girls’ group Mama’s Black Sheep returns to perform till midnight in celebration of singer Ashland Miller’s birthday. Don’t know who Mama’s Black Sheep is? Take one guitar, a bunch of drums, two amazing voices, a dash of humor, a touch of love, and strong musicianship. Mix and stir, and you have this terrific group.

On a personal note, my husband Paul can often be found at Shanna Key enjoying fish and chips. An expat Brit, he chooses Shanna Key’s fish and chips as his island favorite.

So until next time, have fun, enjoy our watering holes and restaurants, and keep an eye out for me!

Topics: Events, Food, Key West, LGBT, Local Color, Restaurant Picks, Topics

Often I’m asked what there is to do in Key West. That’s a loaded question, because our little island has so many options that it’s difficult to describe — and impossible to do everything.

Ladies in early 1900s attire participate in a recent Key West parade to honor the centennial anniversary of the completion of Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, visitors to Key West in recent weeks could have experienced a drag queen lowered to the street in a six-foot red stiletto on New Year’s Eve, a seafood festival, the 30th annual Key West Literary Seminar, two parades down Duval Street that included everything from bicycles and antique cars to marching bands and Boy Scouts, a premiere yacht race, the centennial celebration of Henry Flagler’s Over-Sea Railroad, and the Ragnar Relay that brought hundreds of colorful runners for a 199-mile relay race.

Our theatres are constantly producing exceptional shows, from those penned by local authors to Broadway hits. In February, the Waterfront Playhouse is offering “Dead Man’s Cell Phone” and the Red Barn Theatre is staging the Broadway smash hit “God of Carnage.”

One of my favorite February events is Valentine’s Day at the Curry Mansion Inn — a gala now in its 29th year. Caroline Street outside the inn will be closed as several hundred locals and visitors join the festivities to raise funds for the Wesley House, a local organization serving Keys families and children.

Would you let this costumed character preside over your bingo game? Scores of people do each Sunday in Key West.

The event includes the largest silent auction in Key West, food from great local restaurants, fabulous entertainment including our own Howard Livingston and Honey Mouth performing in two areas, free-flowing libations and colorfully dressed attendees.

Last year’s gala raised more than $60,000 for services provided to the children of the Keys. It takes lots of volunteer hours to produce events of this type, but we seem to have an endless supply of hours to share with our community. (If you want to attend, tickets are available at KeysTix.)

A dazzling star of this island is Mitch Jones. Qmitch, as he calls himself on his Facebook page, is a product of Rocky Mount, N.C.  Raised as a “good ole Southern boy” in a quiet Baptist household, he never missed a Sunday church event.

Mitch was a charter member of the American Airlines Executive Platinum desk, where he catered to the needs of the airline’s top 2 percent VIP customers. Luckily for us, he took an early leave and brought his personality, talent, and generosity to the island on the unique date of 06/06/06.

Key West's own Sushi recently found herself a "centerfold" in the pages of Reader's Digest.

In addition to raising funds for many local charities, Mitch took the helm of 801’s Sunday Bingo after Key West’s beloved RV Beaumont left us. Each Sunday, a full house of raucous faithful locals and visitors is greeted by Mitch in a one-of-a-kind outfit. FYI, in addition to the funds bingo raises for charity, Mitch will auction his outfits to benefit the charity.

Stop by some Sunday (before 5 p.m. to insure a space to perch), buy a few bingo cards, and buckle your seatbelt for the bingo your granny never got to experience. But even if you’re not in Key West, you can catch Mitch’s Sunday Bingo live online at World Famous Drag Queen Bingo — or check out a rerun!

On a final note, surprises often come in small packages. This week I was treated to Reader’s Digest Magazine’s “Best of 2011 Rollicking Roundup.”  Spread over two pages was Key West’s own favorite drag queen Sushi on New Year’s Eve, perched in the red stiletto overlooking thousands on Duval Street in front of Bourbon St. Pub. What a treat to see her featured in this global publication!

Topics: Arts, Events, Key West, LGBT, Local Color

Just about 100 years ago, a five-year-old Key West girl was chosen to present a special bouquet of flowers to Henry Flagler’s wife Mary Lily on the day that marked the completion of Flagler’s Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad.

Henry Flagler re-enactor Paul Jellinek reacts to remarks by 105-year-old Lamar Louise Curry after presenting flowers to her. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Those plans fell through — but a century later, at 105 years old, Lamar Louise Curry finally met “Flagler” and he presented a similar bouquet to her.

The Over-Sea Railroad, a miracle of engineering whose track stretched more than 100 miles out into open water, connected the previously isolated Keys with each other and the Florida mainland for the first time. Its completion has been called the most important single event in Florida Keys history.

On Jan. 22, 1912, when the first Over-Sea Railroad train arrived in Key West from the mainland, thousands of Key Westers greeted Flagler, his wife and other dignitaries. Despite carefully laid plans, however, the young Miss Curry was not among them.

The little girl had eaten peanuts the day before and come down with a terrible stomachache. Her stomach illness (later determined to be a sensitivity to peanuts) caused her to miss the train’s arrival, and the honor of presenting the flowers was given to another young lady.

When the organizers of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad Centennial Celebration found out about Miss Curry — who now lives in Coral Gables, Fla. — they desperately wanted her to come to Key West on Jan. 22, 2012, to present flowers to a Mary Lily Flagler re-enactor.

Miss Curry displays a photograph of herself as a five-year-old girl -- the age she was when Henry Flagler's Over-Sea Railroad first steamed into Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Unfortunately, her health simply wasn’t good enough to allow her to make the trip. So they did the next best thing.

Just before the centennial anniversary, Henry Flagler re-enactor Paul Jellinek went to see Miss Curry at her Coral Gables home.

“About 100 years ago, I understand that you were going to bring flowers to my lovely wife,” said Paul, who visited Miss Curry on his way to the Florida Keys for the centennial anniversary celebration. “You weren’t feeling well (that day), so this day I thought I would bring you some flowers.”

Miss Curry can’t quite remember how she felt about missing the honor, but she does remember the anticipation of Jan. 22, 1912, and what it was like to ride the “railroad that went to sea.”

“It was a great occasion and I remember planning it for a long time,” Miss Curry recalled. “We heard about it and watched it since 1909 being built.”

Mary Lily Flagler holds the flowers presented to her after the first Over-Sea Railroad train arrived in Key West Jan. 22, 1912. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County LIbrary Collection)

She also recalled the experience of riding an Over-Sea Railroad train, especially when it traversed the Bahia Honda bridge.

“It was very exciting, because I looked out the window the whole time while we were on the trestle,” she said. “So it was a wonderful occasion to ride over it.”

Though the meeting between “Henry Flagler” and Miss Curry came 100 years later than originally planned, it was a momentous occasion for both of them.

Paul Jellinek, who is obsessed with the visionary Flagler he portrays, was the most enthusiastic of all.

Over and over, he kept repeating, “I can’t believe I’m seeing someone alive today who was alive when Henry Flagler arrived in Key West.”

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Events, Highlights, History, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive

While most kids who visit New York’s Coney Island find themselves enthralled by the rides, sights and sounds of the boardwalk, Pasta Pantaleo found himself obsessed with a large replica sailfish.

Islamorada resident and gallery owner Pasta Pantaleo is internationally acclaimed as a gamefish artist. (All photos courtesy of Art by Pasta)

“I grew up with a love of cars, so I always said that sailfish are like a Ferrari and tarpon are like a four-wheel-drive truck,” Pasta said. “I’ve always been fascinated with the structure of a sailfish, and found myself drawing that sailfish from Coney Island millions of times before I ever saw a real sailfish.”

Today, he’s recognized around the world as a gamefish artist and runs the acclaimed Pasta Pantaleo’s Signature Gallery in Islamorada. And as president of the area’s Morada Way Arts and Cultural District, he helps showcase the creative culture of the Upper Keys.

A native of Italy, Pasta spent most of his childhood in an Italian immigrant neighborhood in Brooklyn, N.Y. As a young teenager, he made his way to South Florida.

"Gimme Shelter" showcases Pasta's talent for capturing the underwater world and its gamefish inhabitants.

Though he was born Roberto Pantaleo, he’s gone by the nickname “Pasta” for many years. He inherited it from his older brother Nick, often called “pasta fazul” by friends because of his Italian accent and their problems pronouncing the name Pantaleo.

He credits his artistic talent to another inheritance — abilities passed down from his artist father.

Pasta Pantaleo spent much of his professional life working as a commercial graphic designer, and indulged in sport fishing and boating as hobbies. His career in gamefish art began in 1999, when he was contracted to produce a poster for a Florida fishing tournament.

“That was when I realized that my fishing life, my marine life and my art life could be put together a little bit more,” Pasta said. “Because the two loves I had were painting and fishing.”

Shown here helping local art students, Pasta (right) was chosen Florida's best artist of 2011 by Florida Monthly Magazine.

During the early years of his fine-art career, he worked with several Keys galleries and fishing tournaments, frequently traveling to the Keys for art shows.

In 2006, Pasta decided to move to the Keys permanently. He opened his first gallery, called Keys to Life, on Windley Key.

Soon afterward he began offering gallery nights, partnering with other local galleries and businesses to create culturally entertaining evenings for visitors.

“In my opinion, the fishing guides, artists, musicians and chefs are the fabric of what holds the Keys together,” Pasta explained. “They all work with each other to make a really great experience in the Keys — they’re what people come down here to experience.”

Eventually, those gallery nights and partnerships led to the formation of the Morada Way Arts and Cultural District, a nonprofit volunteer organization whose mission is to increase awareness, knowledge and support of the arts and unique culture of the Upper Keys.

Pasta's "Daily Special" depicts a light-drenched underwater vista.

On the third Thursday of each month, the organization hosts the Morada Way Arts and Cultural District Third Thursday Walkabout. The 5-9 p.m. cultural stroll features national and local artists and artisans who are showcased in galleries along Morada Way — as well as live music, food and vendors.

“I’ve always been a person who likes to band people together to better the community,” Pasta said.

Each day, he strives to improve his craft of capturing the majesty and beauty of the Keys’ marine life and environment. He sees his life in Islamorada as similar to living in a small Italian fishing village … with a slow pace allowing the time to stop and appreciate the natural beauty that inspires his work.

Topics: Arts, Highlights, Islamorada, Local Color, Profiles, Voices Main Archive

We’re halfway through January and the weather here in Key West has been glorious. After a couple of cool days, we’re back into the 70’s — with shorts, T- shirts, and sandals the appropriate winter wear.

Even Key West canines, like "blog dog" Giulio shown here, have been enjoying the warm January weather. (Photo by Steve Smith)

We do dress up a bit. On occasion you’ll see us in jeans, cargo shorts, and shirts with collars — and I recently sported my tux jacket with a nice pair of shorts. When you pack for a visit here, remember that you won’t need dinner jackets, ties, or “spit-shined” shoes.

(And if you see the weather in mainland Florida looking cold, remember that Key West is 156 miles southwest of the mainland and we rarely share the same weather — except for the fabled sunshine!)

Key West is known for great eating, as I wrote in my November blog. One of the great upcoming “foodie” events is the third annual Key West Food and Wine Festival, which starts Thursday, Jan. 26, and runs through Sunday, Jan. 29.

The Key West Food and Wine Festival offers innovative cuisine, fine wines and unique island experiences.

This gastronomic celebration offers creative cuisine, premium wines, and unique events only found on our subtropical island.

Kick off the weekend without your shoes or sandals as you join friends for a beach party like nothing you’ve ever attended before. Then play at the historic Key West Aquarium while you sample fine wines and savor delicacies from land and sea. You might spot mermaids, sharks, turtles or indigenous tarpon as you enjoy entertainment by Fancy Pants Entertainment during the “Turtles and Sharks and Mermaids, OH MY! Grand Tasting.”

Chocoholics will experience true bliss when fine organic chocolates are paired with perfect wines during the “Life is a Glass of Chocolate” event at the Lush Bar located at the Green Pineapple on Duval Street.

On Saturday evening, the island’s renowned Duval Street becomes an appetizing avenue during “Duval Uncorked 2012.” The neighborhood’s finest restaurants will be serving samplings of their signature dishes, while the chic boutiques, funky shops and galleries offer wines and hors d’oeuvres. As you stroll you’ll meet Key West’s many personalities and performance artists, and see stellar spectacles.

Stone crabs are a delectable, and renewable, Florida Keys seafood specialty. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Each day, the festival schedule offers many events, venues, tastes, and experiences to choose among. Take the weekend to stroll the neighborhoods from Bahama Village to the Historic Seaport. Other events include cooking contests, food and wine seminars, and outdoor markets.

Tickets and/or festival VIP passes are needed for the events and are available at the Key West Food and Wine Festival website. There you’ll also find information about participating lodging and comments from previous years’ guests.

If you can’t make the Key West festival, the end of January brings the third annual Stone Crab & Seafood Festival in Key Largo.  Set for Saturday and Sunday, Jan. 28-29, it’s a great family event featuring local seafood, live musical entertainment, cooking demonstrations, and fun for the kids too!  Key Largo is a short trip from mainland Florida down the recently completed 18-Mile Stretch.

So tantalize your palate, and have the time of your life at one or both of these fabulous festivals. After all, there’s nothing more delicious than the flavors of the Florida Keys.

Topics: Festivals, Food, Key Largo, Key West, LGBT, Local Color

You had to be there, and boy am I glad I was. There’s nothing — absolutely nothing — like New Year’s Eve in Key West.

"Keys Voices" author/editor Carol Shaughnessy (in shoe at left) and her friend Maria Newman try Sushi's shoe on for size. (All photos by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

That’s because, each year, the island city’s offbeat populace stages three wonderful warm-weather takeoffs on the fabled New Year’s Eve “ball drop” in New York’s Times Square: the “red shoe drop” featuring elegant drag queen Sushi in a super-sized red high heel, the “drop” of a giant manmade conch shell (the symbol of the Florida Keys) above legendary Sloppy Joe’s Bar, and the descent of a winsome pirate wench from the top of a majestic sailing ship’s mast in the Historic Seaport.

But before that happens each New Year’s Eve, Key West goes to the dogs. Dachshunds, to be precise. And this year, there were 227 of them — all parading down Fleming Street in the tail-wagging, smile-inducing annual Key West Dachshund Walk at noon Dec. 31.

The long-bodied, short-legged participants included miniature and standard dachshunds, many of them costumed or wearing offbeat accessories.

Esme O'Kelly carries her canine Duna, costumed as an iguana, during the Key West Dachshund Walk.

Among the standouts were a pair of dogs dressed as Green Bay Packers cheerleaders, “party animals” in feather boas and top hats, a floppy-eared Elvis impersonator, a “horse” with a cowboy doll rider, and a “newshound” dubbed Woof Blitzer — who wore a functioning video camera and shot dogs-eye footage of the wacky walk.

Key Wester Esme O’Kelly dressed her nine-year-old dachshund Duna as a bright-green iguana with a three-foot-long tail (the costume, Esme confessed, was constructed out of green fishnet stockings!). Duna, who didn’t seem to mind wearing it at all, ambled down the street attracting attention from hundreds of dachshund-loving spectators.

Later on New Year’s Eve, the focus turned from dachshunds to divas — led by the dazzling Sushi and covered live during Anderson Cooper’s New Year’s Eve show on CNN (for the ninth consecutive year, believe it or not!).

Sushi prepares to welcome 2012 during the New Year's Eve "drag queen drop" in Key West.

Thousands of revelers gathered on Key West’s Duval Street outside the Bourbon St. Pub/New Orleans House complex to watch the lavishly costumed Sushi “drop” in her high-heeled chariot.

“About 15 years ago we started a tradition here in Key West of me being lowered in a giant glittery red shoe, at the stroke of midnight, in full drag,” said Sushi, otherwise known as Key West resident Gary Marion.

An incredibly talented seamstress and costume designer, this year she created a vivid tangerine gown for the event. Its Victorian flavor was inspired by the upcoming centennial of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad.

CNN’s stellar John Zarrella, dashingly dressed in a tux despite the balmy weather, provided lighthearted commentary to viewers around the world as drag queens and dancers entertained before the “drop” — enthralling spectators that ranged from couples to seniors and families.

2012 got off to a wonderful start in the fabulous Florida Keys.

“When I was a little kid I never really dreamed about being in drag, let alone being lowered in a giant red heel,” Sushi admitted. “What a way to make a living, though — it’s fabulous.”

Seconds before midnight, the shoe and its passenger were lowered from the complex’s second-story balcony toward the cheering crowd below.

As midnight struck and 2012 officially began, Sushi landed and gleefully popped the cork on a ceremonial bottle of champagne.

Dachshunds, drag queens and lovely 70-degree temperatures even at midnight … what a way to welcome 2012!

And in the often magical Florida Keys, it’s a good bet that the rest of the year will live up to its kickoff.

Topics: Animal Ambassadors, Events, Highlights, Key West, LGBT, Local Color, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through the Keys
smiling holiday revelers savored the breeze.
But in other locations, nobody was smiling
as they braved freezing temperatures far from the islands.

A trio of canine "kids" awaits the arrival of Santa Keys. (Photo by Mary Threlkeld)

While Keys visitors partied in warm outdoor bars,
toasting friends with mojitos sipped under the stars,
Christmas spirits had plans for the cold “refugees”
who were physically elsewhere but craving the Keys.

That’s why, out on the beach, there arose such a squawking
of unsettled seagulls in seagull talk talking
that drivers of cars cruising next to the ocean
couldn’t figure out what had caused all the commotion.

The moon on the shining white crescent of beach
made the shoreline of Cuba seem almost in reach
when what to the drivers’ amazement appeared
but a Santa in flip-flops and seaweed-decked beard.

Elves riding golf carts? Santa Keys' helpers in Big Pine use some unconventional vehicles when assisting the big guy. (Photo by Neysa Threlkeld)

Now, this Santa was wise and this Santa was bright
and he sure sympathized with the northerners’ plight.
In his past life, before heading south for the sun,
he too spent the winter months freezing his buns.

So he hijacked a sturdy old boat used for fishin’,
found some Key deer to pull it and started his mission.
Sailing skyward to surf on a tropical breeze,
he steered his ship north bringing gifts from the Keys.

As palm fronds before a wild summer storm fly
(when the shutters are closed and the water is high),
Santa Keys cruised the northern states with his Key deer
spreading visions of warm blue seas and island cheer.

With his Key deer garbed in brilliant lights, Santa Keys prepares to depart on his mission. (Photo by Neysa Threlkeld)

At each house where the residents longed for the tropics,
he left small Keys tokens stuffed deep in their stockings.
There were conch shells and flip-flops and Key lime tidbits,
Margarita mix too — and “Buffett’s Greatest Hits.”

There were fishing reels, dive logs and lotions for sun
Conch Republic flags, stickers that read “U.S. 1,”
tiny replicas of Key West’s Southernmost Point
and shrimp sauce from a funky old Keys seafood joint.

When he dropped the last gift at the last snow-topped house,
Santa Keys told his Key deer to steer a course south.
His farewell drifted back on a sweet balmy breeze:
“Merry Christmas to all — now come visit the Keys!”

Even underwater denizens get a visit from Santa Keys. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

To watch an underwater video of Santa Keys, click here.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, On the Water, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

Once upon a time (way back in 1982), the Florida Keys & Key West seceded from the union and formed the independent Conch Republic. This wasn’t a joke. In fact, it was a last-ditch attempt to get the U.S. Border Patrol to remove a blockade it had erected at the head of the Keys — where agents searched outgoing cars for unspecified contraband, tied up traffic interminably, and nearly annihilated the Keys’ fledgling tourist trade.

Even NBC "Today" weatherman Al Roker (left) and anchor Matt Lauer are fans of the Conch Republic. Here they display the republic's flag during a special broadcast from Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

So, like any intelligent population blessed with a creative mindset and lively sense of humor, some good citizens and friends of the Keys came up with an offbeat, attention-getting response: they staged the island chain’s secession from the mother country.

It was a stunningly effective solution to the problem. Following the international media hoopla generated by the gutsy action, the blockade was quietly dismantled, never to return.

The concept of the Conch Republic, however, has far outlived the incident that spawned it. While Keys citizens are technically still Americans, today Conch Republic flags and passports are common — and the secession’s anniversary is celebrated each year with a fun-filled festival.

The concept of the Conch Republic appeals to the independent, nonconformist spirit of Keys residents (and those who dream of becoming residents). And recently, one of the republic’s founding fathers discovered that it also appealed to a citizenry on the other side of the world.

Intrepid traveler Stuart Newman discovered a Conch Republic-like country in faraway New Zealand.

While he was in New Zealand representing the Florida Keys & Key West at the annual Society of American Travel Writers convention, honorary Conch Republican Stuart Newman took time off to explore the countryside. Driving along the Lost World Highway, he encountered the “Republic of Whangamomona.”

Here, in Stuart’s own words, is the tale of his remarkable discovery.

Whangamomona, NZ — Halfway around the world from the Florida Keys, residents of tiny town on New Zealand’s North Island, arguably inspired by Key West’s 1982 Conch Republic rebellion, seven years later seceded and formed the “Republic of Whangamomona.”

In 1989, dissatisfied with a series of governmental redistricting changes, the elder gurus of the community of less than 180 gathered at the pub of the local six-room hotel/restaurant — and declared Whangamomona to be an independent republic.

The republic of Whamgamomona is governed from this unassuming hotel. (Photo by Stuart Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Located in New Zealand’s Manawatu-Wanganui region, Whangamomona is accessible via the Lost World Highway (NZ 43) — not exactly the caliber of the Keys’ U.S. 1, since it boasts a 90-mile stretch without a service station.

Whangamomona’s first president, Ian Kjestrup, was elected after his name was placed on the ballot without his knowledge.

Kjestrup served from 1989 through 1999 and was succeeded by Billy Gumboot, a goat (!), who won by eating the ballots of the other candidates. Gumboot served 18 months before being succeeded by a poodle named Tai, who served from 2003 to 2004 and retired following a reported assassination attempt.

The present chief of state, garage owner Murt “Murtle the Turtle” Kennard, won out over founding father Kjestrup and a cross-dresser named Miriam (sound familiar?) by a single vote. He was overwhelmingly re-elected this year.

Like the Conch Republic, Whangamomona has a population of indigenous poultry.

Today, the tiny “country” of Whangamomona is replete with Conch Republic-type passports and official T-shirts. Every other year in January (summer in New Zealand), the town celebrates Republic Day, which attracts thousands of visitors from throughout the North Island.

As Stuart discovered, clearly the citizens of Whangamomona share an irreverent mindset and good-spirited sense of fun with the denizens of the Conch Republic. Those attributes will take center stage in the Keys April 20-29, 2012, during the 30th annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration.

Why not come down for the festivities and declare your own independence?

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Events, Festivals, Highlights, History, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, Quirks, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive

Key West’s nightlife scene means the rhythms of reggae, salsa and island rock spilling from clubs’ open doorways … the whirr of a blender as a bartender concocts a perfect frozen margarita … the laughter and clink of glasses as friends toast the evening’s promise.

Rick's Bar, a favorite Key West establishment in the 200 block of Duval Street, offers patrons multiple settings for fun. (Photo courtesy of Rick's)

Party-minded people tend to favor lively Duval Street and the waterfront Historic Seaport. There you’ll find everything from icy imported beers to sophisticated martinis to frozen tropical libations in mind-boggling flavors.

The settings are as varied as the drink offerings. You might sip a cool concoction overlooking the colorful Duval panorama, wander into a sultry jazz club or wine bar, or choose a seaport tavern where patrons’ dogs enjoy their own “cocktails” — bowls of ice water.

For example, check out the popular Rick’s/Durty Harry’s Entertainment Complex in the 200 block of  Duval Street. Its wide variety of venues and bars includes Rick’s Downstairs, featuring top-quality live music and cocktails; the casual Tree Bar with its laid-back bartenders, premium spirits and fresh-squeezed juices; and Durty Harry’s, known for its live rock and roll.

Jimmy Buffett waves to some 3,500 "Parrot Head" fans during a surprise concert outside his Margaritaville emporium. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Jimmy Buffett fans flock to the renowned entertainer/author’s bar and restaurant at 500 Duval St. Jimmy drew inspiration for his “island rock” from living and performing in Key West, and his Margaritaville Café features tasty casual food, cocktails and an entertainment lineup that includes his musical friends, band members and occasionally the man himself.

Jimmy was a regular habitué of the Chart Room, a hole-in-the-wall at the Pier House Resort & Caribbean Spa, 1 Duval St., where Key West movers-and-shakers plotted and partied in the late 1970s and early ‘80s. Venture inside today for what Chart Room bartenders still call “a sensible cocktail,” and you might hear the hint of their long-ago laughter.

Two local bars recall another of Key West’s favorite sons.

Legendary writer Ernest Hemingway spent the 1930s on the island, penning fiction that forever changed American literature — and consorting with friends like saloonkeeper Joe “Josie” Russell at his Sloppy Joe’s Bar.

Sloppy Joe's is thronged with look-alike fans each year during the internationally renowned contest. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

The bar was located at 428 Greene St. until a rent dispute caused Josie to move it around the corner to 201 Duval St. — where it became a world-famous watering hole. Each July, Sloppy Joe’s hosts the “Papa” Hemingway Look-Alike Contest — but visitors crowd the place year-round for its quality entertainment, ample drinks and Hemingway heritage.

For many years, the original Sloppy Joe’s has been called Captain Tony’s Saloon. The colorful Tony was a gambler, gunrunner, charterboat captain and Key West’s one-time mayor. Stop in for live music and cold libations in an atmosphere filled with memorabilia.

Around the corner at 4 Charles St. stands the Smokin’ Tuna Saloon, a new emporium that’s already a local favorite. Its attractions include a funky and welcoming indoor-outdoor vibe, an eclectic menu and unbeatable live music.

The Smokin' Tuna is relatively new on the scene but already a locals' favorite hotspot. (Photo courtesy of the Smokin' Tuna)

And don’t miss the ramshackle Green Parrot Bar at 601 Whitehead St., a Key West landmark since 1890. There you’ll find easygoing bartenders and an offbeat atmosphere (including signs that read “Sorry, We’re Open” and “No Snivelling”). The self-proclaimed home of great drinks and bad art, the Parrot offers a jazz-, funk- and blues-infused entertainment lineup.

Another hub of Key West’s lively nightlife is the Historic Seaport district along the Gulf of Mexico. Seaport bars and restaurants preserve the funky attitude, architecture and personality of the island’s past.

Prime among them is the Schooner Wharf Bar at 202 William St. The bar began its life on an actual schooner, but subsequently moved ashore to its open-air waterfront setting. Today it’s known for casual live music, rustic charm and events ranging from a goofy “minimal regatta” to a buccaneering New Year’s Eve celebration.

Whether you’re seeking seaport shenanigans, island rhythms or a chance to try the “Duval Crawl” of main-street establishments, Key West’s nightlife adds a vibrant excitement to the island city.

So what are you waiting for? Come on down and sample it for yourself.

Topics: Highlights, Key West, Local Color, Voices Main Archive