The official Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad centennial celebration ended Jan. 23 (and it was a great joy to be part of the once-in-a-lifetime event). But even though that date has passed, you can still explore sites, exhibits and landmarks recalling the world-renowned railroad that, in 1912, connected the Keys with mainland Florida for the first time.

Visitors to the Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House examine the exhibit commemorating the 100th anniversary of the debut of Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, check out “Flagler’s Speedway to Sunshine,” a permanent exhibit at the Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House. Fascinating for railroad buffs, history aficionados, kids and anyone who loves the Keys, the exhibit showcases the construction, heyday and demise of the railroad once called “the eighth wonder of the world.”

At the impressive red-brick museum, you’ll find a re-created railway car, a replica section of the Old Seven Mile Bridge that was the Over-Sea Railroad’s centerpiece, vintage footage of the train trip from the Middle Keys to Key West, a film spotlighting railroad creator Henry Flagler and the first train’s arrival in Key West, and MUCH more.

In a new exhibit section, you’ll discover Key West’s Prohibition era, the Great Depression, and even the 1935 hurricane that severely damaged parts of the railroad and helped end its reign. Also featured are the history of Key West’s Casa Marina, the jewel of Flagler’s resort hotels, and even family albums and memorabilia from Ernest Hemingway’s life in Key West during the 1930s.

Railroad and history buffs can visit the former Over-Sea Railroad work camp at Pigeon Key, lying beneath the historic Old Seven Mile Bridge. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The museum is far from the only place you can experience the history of the fabled Over-Sea Railroad — whose track, by the way, stretched more than 100 miles out over open water. Near Marathon in the Middle Keys, a railroad heritage site called Pigeon Key lies beneath the Old Seven Mile Bridge, providing an eye-opening window on Keys life a century ago.

Just over two miles west of Marathon, five-acre Pigeon Key was home to more than 400 workers who built the railroad in the early 1900s. The island was a base camp with a commissary and one-room school during the Seven Mile Bridge’s construction from 1908 to 1912.

Today many of Pigeon Key’s original railroad buildings and houses still stand — and it’s no surprise to find that the tiny, pristine speck of land is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It also has a museum that chronicles the construction of the amazing railroad, and daily historic tours are offered.

Costumed artists and re-enactors celebrate the debut of Key Largo's mural inspired by the Over-Sea Railroad centennial. (Photo courtesy of Cris Sandifer)

Combine your Pigeon Key expedition with a boat ride by taking the ferry from a visitor center at Knight’s Key, located at mile marker 47 on the west end of Marathon.

Even if you can’t explore Pigeon Key or the Key West exhibit, you’ll glimpse plenty of reminders of the Over-Sea Railroad simply by driving through the Keys on the Overseas Highway — which evolved from the railroad itself. For example, near mile marker 95 bayside in Key Largo stands an intriguing outdoor mural, recently painted by artists from the Upper Keys’ Art Guild of the Purple Isles and Keys high school art club students.

The hand-painted mural measures 60 feet long and 11.5 feet high, and depicts an Over-Sea Railroad passenger train steaming across an arched bridge that looks a lot like the Long Key Viaduct. In the sky is a full moon adorned with the face of railroad visionary Henry Flagler.

And speaking of bridges, it’s easy to spot many of the original railroad bridges alongside the spans supporting the modern Florida Keys Overseas Highway — the contemporary connection from mainland Florida through the Keys — that follows the trail blazed by Flagler a century ago.

Topics: Events, Highlights, History, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, Voices Main Archive

Often I’m asked what there is to do in Key West. That’s a loaded question, because our little island has so many options that it’s difficult to describe — and impossible to do everything.

Ladies in early 1900s attire participate in a recent Key West parade to honor the centennial anniversary of the completion of Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, visitors to Key West in recent weeks could have experienced a drag queen lowered to the street in a six-foot red stiletto on New Year’s Eve, a seafood festival, the 30th annual Key West Literary Seminar, two parades down Duval Street that included everything from bicycles and antique cars to marching bands and Boy Scouts, a premiere yacht race, the centennial celebration of Henry Flagler’s Over-Sea Railroad, and the Ragnar Relay that brought hundreds of colorful runners for a 199-mile relay race.

Our theatres are constantly producing exceptional shows, from those penned by local authors to Broadway hits. In February, the Waterfront Playhouse is offering “Dead Man’s Cell Phone” and the Red Barn Theatre is staging the Broadway smash hit “God of Carnage.”

One of my favorite February events is Valentine’s Day at the Curry Mansion Inn — a gala now in its 29th year. Caroline Street outside the inn will be closed as several hundred locals and visitors join the festivities to raise funds for the Wesley House, a local organization serving Keys families and children.

Would you let this costumed character preside over your bingo game? Scores of people do each Sunday in Key West.

The event includes the largest silent auction in Key West, food from great local restaurants, fabulous entertainment including our own Howard Livingston and Honey Mouth performing in two areas, free-flowing libations and colorfully dressed attendees.

Last year’s gala raised more than $60,000 for services provided to the children of the Keys. It takes lots of volunteer hours to produce events of this type, but we seem to have an endless supply of hours to share with our community. (If you want to attend, tickets are available at KeysTix.)

A dazzling star of this island is Mitch Jones. Qmitch, as he calls himself on his Facebook page, is a product of Rocky Mount, N.C.  Raised as a “good ole Southern boy” in a quiet Baptist household, he never missed a Sunday church event.

Mitch was a charter member of the American Airlines Executive Platinum desk, where he catered to the needs of the airline’s top 2 percent VIP customers. Luckily for us, he took an early leave and brought his personality, talent, and generosity to the island on the unique date of 06/06/06.

Key West's own Sushi recently found herself a "centerfold" in the pages of Reader's Digest.

In addition to raising funds for many local charities, Mitch took the helm of 801’s Sunday Bingo after Key West’s beloved RV Beaumont left us. Each Sunday, a full house of raucous faithful locals and visitors is greeted by Mitch in a one-of-a-kind outfit. FYI, in addition to the funds bingo raises for charity, Mitch will auction his outfits to benefit the charity.

Stop by some Sunday (before 5 p.m. to insure a space to perch), buy a few bingo cards, and buckle your seatbelt for the bingo your granny never got to experience. But even if you’re not in Key West, you can catch Mitch’s Sunday Bingo live online at World Famous Drag Queen Bingo — or check out a rerun!

On a final note, surprises often come in small packages. This week I was treated to Reader’s Digest Magazine’s “Best of 2011 Rollicking Roundup.”  Spread over two pages was Key West’s own favorite drag queen Sushi on New Year’s Eve, perched in the red stiletto overlooking thousands on Duval Street in front of Bourbon St. Pub. What a treat to see her featured in this global publication!

Topics: Arts, Events, Key West, LGBT, Local Color

Just about 100 years ago, a five-year-old Key West girl was chosen to present a special bouquet of flowers to Henry Flagler’s wife Mary Lily on the day that marked the completion of Flagler’s Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad.

Henry Flagler re-enactor Paul Jellinek reacts to remarks by 105-year-old Lamar Louise Curry after presenting flowers to her. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Those plans fell through — but a century later, at 105 years old, Lamar Louise Curry finally met “Flagler” and he presented a similar bouquet to her.

The Over-Sea Railroad, a miracle of engineering whose track stretched more than 100 miles out into open water, connected the previously isolated Keys with each other and the Florida mainland for the first time. Its completion has been called the most important single event in Florida Keys history.

On Jan. 22, 1912, when the first Over-Sea Railroad train arrived in Key West from the mainland, thousands of Key Westers greeted Flagler, his wife and other dignitaries. Despite carefully laid plans, however, the young Miss Curry was not among them.

The little girl had eaten peanuts the day before and come down with a terrible stomachache. Her stomach illness (later determined to be a sensitivity to peanuts) caused her to miss the train’s arrival, and the honor of presenting the flowers was given to another young lady.

When the organizers of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad Centennial Celebration found out about Miss Curry — who now lives in Coral Gables, Fla. — they desperately wanted her to come to Key West on Jan. 22, 2012, to present flowers to a Mary Lily Flagler re-enactor.

Miss Curry displays a photograph of herself as a five-year-old girl -- the age she was when Henry Flagler's Over-Sea Railroad first steamed into Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Unfortunately, her health simply wasn’t good enough to allow her to make the trip. So they did the next best thing.

Just before the centennial anniversary, Henry Flagler re-enactor Paul Jellinek went to see Miss Curry at her Coral Gables home.

“About 100 years ago, I understand that you were going to bring flowers to my lovely wife,” said Paul, who visited Miss Curry on his way to the Florida Keys for the centennial anniversary celebration. “You weren’t feeling well (that day), so this day I thought I would bring you some flowers.”

Miss Curry can’t quite remember how she felt about missing the honor, but she does remember the anticipation of Jan. 22, 1912, and what it was like to ride the “railroad that went to sea.”

“It was a great occasion and I remember planning it for a long time,” Miss Curry recalled. “We heard about it and watched it since 1909 being built.”

Mary Lily Flagler holds the flowers presented to her after the first Over-Sea Railroad train arrived in Key West Jan. 22, 1912. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County LIbrary Collection)

She also recalled the experience of riding an Over-Sea Railroad train, especially when it traversed the Bahia Honda bridge.

“It was very exciting, because I looked out the window the whole time while we were on the trestle,” she said. “So it was a wonderful occasion to ride over it.”

Though the meeting between “Henry Flagler” and Miss Curry came 100 years later than originally planned, it was a momentous occasion for both of them.

Paul Jellinek, who is obsessed with the visionary Flagler he portrays, was the most enthusiastic of all.

Over and over, he kept repeating, “I can’t believe I’m seeing someone alive today who was alive when Henry Flagler arrived in Key West.”

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Events, Highlights, History, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive

We’re halfway through January and the weather here in Key West has been glorious. After a couple of cool days, we’re back into the 70’s — with shorts, T- shirts, and sandals the appropriate winter wear.

Even Key West canines, like "blog dog" Giulio shown here, have been enjoying the warm January weather. (Photo by Steve Smith)

We do dress up a bit. On occasion you’ll see us in jeans, cargo shorts, and shirts with collars — and I recently sported my tux jacket with a nice pair of shorts. When you pack for a visit here, remember that you won’t need dinner jackets, ties, or “spit-shined” shoes.

(And if you see the weather in mainland Florida looking cold, remember that Key West is 156 miles southwest of the mainland and we rarely share the same weather — except for the fabled sunshine!)

Key West is known for great eating, as I wrote in my November blog. One of the great upcoming “foodie” events is the third annual Key West Food and Wine Festival, which starts Thursday, Jan. 26, and runs through Sunday, Jan. 29.

The Key West Food and Wine Festival offers innovative cuisine, fine wines and unique island experiences.

This gastronomic celebration offers creative cuisine, premium wines, and unique events only found on our subtropical island.

Kick off the weekend without your shoes or sandals as you join friends for a beach party like nothing you’ve ever attended before. Then play at the historic Key West Aquarium while you sample fine wines and savor delicacies from land and sea. You might spot mermaids, sharks, turtles or indigenous tarpon as you enjoy entertainment by Fancy Pants Entertainment during the “Turtles and Sharks and Mermaids, OH MY! Grand Tasting.”

Chocoholics will experience true bliss when fine organic chocolates are paired with perfect wines during the “Life is a Glass of Chocolate” event at the Lush Bar located at the Green Pineapple on Duval Street.

On Saturday evening, the island’s renowned Duval Street becomes an appetizing avenue during “Duval Uncorked 2012.” The neighborhood’s finest restaurants will be serving samplings of their signature dishes, while the chic boutiques, funky shops and galleries offer wines and hors d’oeuvres. As you stroll you’ll meet Key West’s many personalities and performance artists, and see stellar spectacles.

Stone crabs are a delectable, and renewable, Florida Keys seafood specialty. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Each day, the festival schedule offers many events, venues, tastes, and experiences to choose among. Take the weekend to stroll the neighborhoods from Bahama Village to the Historic Seaport. Other events include cooking contests, food and wine seminars, and outdoor markets.

Tickets and/or festival VIP passes are needed for the events and are available at the Key West Food and Wine Festival website. There you’ll also find information about participating lodging and comments from previous years’ guests.

If you can’t make the Key West festival, the end of January brings the third annual Stone Crab & Seafood Festival in Key Largo.  Set for Saturday and Sunday, Jan. 28-29, it’s a great family event featuring local seafood, live musical entertainment, cooking demonstrations, and fun for the kids too!  Key Largo is a short trip from mainland Florida down the recently completed 18-Mile Stretch.

So tantalize your palate, and have the time of your life at one or both of these fabulous festivals. After all, there’s nothing more delicious than the flavors of the Florida Keys.

Topics: Festivals, Food, Key Largo, Key West, LGBT, Local Color

You had to be there, and boy am I glad I was. There’s nothing — absolutely nothing — like New Year’s Eve in Key West.

"Keys Voices" author/editor Carol Shaughnessy (in shoe at left) and her friend Maria Newman try Sushi's shoe on for size. (All photos by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

That’s because, each year, the island city’s offbeat populace stages three wonderful warm-weather takeoffs on the fabled New Year’s Eve “ball drop” in New York’s Times Square: the “red shoe drop” featuring elegant drag queen Sushi in a super-sized red high heel, the “drop” of a giant manmade conch shell (the symbol of the Florida Keys) above legendary Sloppy Joe’s Bar, and the descent of a winsome pirate wench from the top of a majestic sailing ship’s mast in the Historic Seaport.

But before that happens each New Year’s Eve, Key West goes to the dogs. Dachshunds, to be precise. And this year, there were 227 of them — all parading down Fleming Street in the tail-wagging, smile-inducing annual Key West Dachshund Walk at noon Dec. 31.

The long-bodied, short-legged participants included miniature and standard dachshunds, many of them costumed or wearing offbeat accessories.

Esme O'Kelly carries her canine Duna, costumed as an iguana, during the Key West Dachshund Walk.

Among the standouts were a pair of dogs dressed as Green Bay Packers cheerleaders, “party animals” in feather boas and top hats, a floppy-eared Elvis impersonator, a “horse” with a cowboy doll rider, and a “newshound” dubbed Woof Blitzer — who wore a functioning video camera and shot dogs-eye footage of the wacky walk.

Key Wester Esme O’Kelly dressed her nine-year-old dachshund Duna as a bright-green iguana with a three-foot-long tail (the costume, Esme confessed, was constructed out of green fishnet stockings!). Duna, who didn’t seem to mind wearing it at all, ambled down the street attracting attention from hundreds of dachshund-loving spectators.

Later on New Year’s Eve, the focus turned from dachshunds to divas — led by the dazzling Sushi and covered live during Anderson Cooper’s New Year’s Eve show on CNN (for the ninth consecutive year, believe it or not!).

Sushi prepares to welcome 2012 during the New Year's Eve "drag queen drop" in Key West.

Thousands of revelers gathered on Key West’s Duval Street outside the Bourbon St. Pub/New Orleans House complex to watch the lavishly costumed Sushi “drop” in her high-heeled chariot.

“About 15 years ago we started a tradition here in Key West of me being lowered in a giant glittery red shoe, at the stroke of midnight, in full drag,” said Sushi, otherwise known as Key West resident Gary Marion.

An incredibly talented seamstress and costume designer, this year she created a vivid tangerine gown for the event. Its Victorian flavor was inspired by the upcoming centennial of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad.

CNN’s stellar John Zarrella, dashingly dressed in a tux despite the balmy weather, provided lighthearted commentary to viewers around the world as drag queens and dancers entertained before the “drop” — enthralling spectators that ranged from couples to seniors and families.

2012 got off to a wonderful start in the fabulous Florida Keys.

“When I was a little kid I never really dreamed about being in drag, let alone being lowered in a giant red heel,” Sushi admitted. “What a way to make a living, though — it’s fabulous.”

Seconds before midnight, the shoe and its passenger were lowered from the complex’s second-story balcony toward the cheering crowd below.

As midnight struck and 2012 officially began, Sushi landed and gleefully popped the cork on a ceremonial bottle of champagne.

Dachshunds, drag queens and lovely 70-degree temperatures even at midnight … what a way to welcome 2012!

And in the often magical Florida Keys, it’s a good bet that the rest of the year will live up to its kickoff.

Topics: Animal Ambassadors, Events, Highlights, Key West, LGBT, Local Color, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

Standard Oil millionaire Henry Flagler conceived the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad in the early 1900s, and the first train traveled from the Florida mainland to Key West Jan. 22, 1912. Today historians credit the railroad, officially named the Key West Extension of the Florida East Coast Railway, with making possible the evolution of the modern Florida Keys.

Seth Bramson displays a signal lantern from the original Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Seth Bramson is a company historian for the Florida East Coast Railway and author of “The Greatest Railroad Story Ever Told: Henry Flagler and the Florida East Coast Railway’s Key West Extension,” the recently released history of the engineering and construction of the railroad that stretched more than 100 miles over open water.

A celebration commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Over-Sea Railroad’s completion culminates Jan. 14-23 in the Keys. Its final event is a Jan. 23 evening presentation and book signing by Seth Bramson at The Studios of Key West, 600 White St.

Here, he shares insights into the railroad that connected the Florida Keys with mainland Florida, and each other, for the first time.

Q: How complex was the construction of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad? What other large-scale construction projects does it compare to?

Seth Bramson: The building of the Key West Extension was the greatest single railroad engineering and construction feat in U.S. — and possibly world — history. During the era of the extension’s construction, the only engineering feat that could be even remotely compared to the Key West Extension’s construction was the building of the Panama Canal.

Constructing the Long Key Viaduct, shown here, was one of the greatest engineering challenges faced by Flagler and his team. (Photo courtesy of the Monroe County Library Collection)

Q: What were the most daunting engineering challenges in the construction process?

SB: Unquestionably the most daunting engineering challenges were the building of the three major bridges: Long Key Viaduct, Bahia Honda Bridge and what is today known as {the} Seven Mile Bridge — as well as the filling of open water to create the Key West Terminal property, today known as Trumbo Island. Nothing like the building of the bridges had ever before been attempted.

Q: What did construction of the Over-Sea Railroad mean for Flagler and his team?

SB: The successful completion of the Key West Extension added to Flagler’s legacy to the point that, today, the name Henry M. Flagler is the single greatest name in the history of Florida.

Q: What were the Florida Keys like before the railroad was built?

SB: Prior to the completion of the Key West Extension of the FEC, the Keys were completely rural and mostly uninhabited. The FEC brought life to the islands as well as hospitality venues. Whole communities came into being because of the railroad, including those at Marathon, Matecumbe, Long Key and others.

The arrival of the Over-Sea Railroad changed the face of the Keys forever. (Image courtesy of the Key West Art & Historical Society)

Q: How did the Over-Sea Railroad change the Florida Keys?

SB: The completion of the railroad to Key West meant the fulfillment, to the people of the Keys and the island city, of one word: accessibility. With the coming of the railroad, the isolation ended and, although it would take time and patience, development could and did begin. The Keys were, with the completion of the railroad, a completely different world.

Q: The railroad operated for less than 25 years, but it left an indelible legacy. How does its existence continue to affect the Keys?

SB: The building and operation of the Key West Extension of the Florida East Coast Railway was, and is, the greatest railroad story ever told. The incredible task of building a railroad over the sea in the early years of the 20th century has come, in no small measure, to define the residents of the Keys — the Conchs — who have come to be known for their hardiness, their pluckiness, their adaptability and their resilience.

Q: Why should people care about the centennial of the Over-Sea Railroad’s completion?

SB: It is extremely important that, especially given the issues and problems that America faces today, the celebration of what America was — and still is — capable of doing should and must be celebrated and memorialized.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Events, Highlights, History, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, Voices Main Archive

The countdown is on and 2011 will soon be part of our memories of good times shared — and we’ll be looking forward to the adventures 2012 will bring us!  The Mayan prophesies might say there’s just a year left until the world’s demise, but you’d never know it, given all the upcoming events and activities in Key West.

"Forbidden Broadway" graces the Red Barn's stage through mid-January. (Photo courtesy of the Red Barn Theatre)

For example, all our theaters are up and running with fabulous seasons. Among them is one built as a carriage house in 1829. Used on and off during the 1940s by the Key West Players, and operated in the 1970s as a venue for puppet shows and piano concerts by renowned pianist Yehuda Guttman, in 1980 it became the now-beloved Red Barn Theatre, located at 319 Duval St.

Headlining the Barn’s 32nd season is a stroll through “Broadway in Paradise” — the Tony Award-winning show “Forbidden Broadway” runs through mid-January.  Featuring one of my favorite Keys performers, Marjorie Paul-Shook, this musical spins through 75 costume changes.  Following “Forbidden” is the 2010 award winner “Red.” Tickets to this intimate theater sell out quickly, so it’s best to plan ahead to avoid being disappointed.

A five-minute walk brings you to the 150-seat Waterfront Playhouse on Mallory Square. The theater’s founding Key West Players have been entertaining the island for more than 70 years. I remember the days when the playhouse had no air conditioning and uncomfortable seats, but (as always!) darn good theater.

The Waterfront Playhouse is wowing crowds with "August: Osage County." (Photo courtesy of the Waterfront Playhouse)

The stage has been graced by some of Key West’s best talents including former Fantasy Fest kings Tom Luna and George Murphy.  Kelly McGillis, Charles Busch, Terrance McNally, Israel Horowitz and Carl Hiaasen are among the luminaries that have performed there.

This season opened with the Pulitzer Prize and Tony Award Best Play winner “August:  Osage County,” a dark comedy that transforms a family gathering into a mélange of sex, secrets, and really inappropriate behavior.  It’s said to be one of the best shows ever at the Waterfront, so watch a brief video of “August” and make your plans now to see this “bitch of a family reunion.”

The Tennessee Williams Theatre, located on the campus of Florida Keys Community College, brings monthly performances to its stage giving us a chance to see big-city entertainment in our island setting.  Built in the 1960s with Tennessee Williams himself assisting in the groundbreaking, the theatre is operated by the Performing Arts Centers for Key West/Tennessee Williams Theatre.

Blog author Steve Smith wishes everyone a Happy New Year ... no matter WHAT the Mayan prophesies say!

The 2012 season kicks off with The Midtown Men, starring four from the original cast of “Jersey Boys.”  On Feb. 3, you can join them in celebrating the sounds of the 1960s at their one-of-a-kind concert.  Other upcoming performances include Monty Python’s “SPAMALOT” and the world-renowned Pilobolus.

As well as great theater, we celebrate local seafood as one of our treasures. On Jan. 14, join us at the Florida Keys Seafood Festival in Bayview Park. We feast on fried fish, grilled Florida lobster, stone crab claws, Key West pink shrimp, conch fritters, and smoked fish dip.

The event features live entertainment and is a social gathering with members of our One Human Family.  Stake out a comfortable spot to spread out, because at 6 p.m. the Keys’ own Howard Livingston & the Mile Marker 24 Band take the stage for a free two-hour concert under the stars.

If you believe in a popular interpretation of Mayan prophesies, we’ve got just one year left until the world ends on Dec. 21, 2012.  Make your plans to visit us in Key West soon; in fact, if you can’t get here beforehand, come down Dec. 20 — I’m sure we’ll have a special event taking place!

Topics: Arts, Events, Festivals, Food, Highlights, Key West, LGBT

‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through the Keys
smiling holiday revelers savored the breeze.
But in other locations, nobody was smiling
as they braved freezing temperatures far from the islands.

A trio of canine "kids" awaits the arrival of Santa Keys. (Photo by Mary Threlkeld)

While Keys visitors partied in warm outdoor bars,
toasting friends with mojitos sipped under the stars,
Christmas spirits had plans for the cold “refugees”
who were physically elsewhere but craving the Keys.

That’s why, out on the beach, there arose such a squawking
of unsettled seagulls in seagull talk talking
that drivers of cars cruising next to the ocean
couldn’t figure out what had caused all the commotion.

The moon on the shining white crescent of beach
made the shoreline of Cuba seem almost in reach
when what to the drivers’ amazement appeared
but a Santa in flip-flops and seaweed-decked beard.

Elves riding golf carts? Santa Keys' helpers in Big Pine use some unconventional vehicles when assisting the big guy. (Photo by Neysa Threlkeld)

Now, this Santa was wise and this Santa was bright
and he sure sympathized with the northerners’ plight.
In his past life, before heading south for the sun,
he too spent the winter months freezing his buns.

So he hijacked a sturdy old boat used for fishin’,
found some Key deer to pull it and started his mission.
Sailing skyward to surf on a tropical breeze,
he steered his ship north bringing gifts from the Keys.

As palm fronds before a wild summer storm fly
(when the shutters are closed and the water is high),
Santa Keys cruised the northern states with his Key deer
spreading visions of warm blue seas and island cheer.

With his Key deer garbed in brilliant lights, Santa Keys prepares to depart on his mission. (Photo by Neysa Threlkeld)

At each house where the residents longed for the tropics,
he left small Keys tokens stuffed deep in their stockings.
There were conch shells and flip-flops and Key lime tidbits,
Margarita mix too — and “Buffett’s Greatest Hits.”

There were fishing reels, dive logs and lotions for sun
Conch Republic flags, stickers that read “U.S. 1,”
tiny replicas of Key West’s Southernmost Point
and shrimp sauce from a funky old Keys seafood joint.

When he dropped the last gift at the last snow-topped house,
Santa Keys told his Key deer to steer a course south.
His farewell drifted back on a sweet balmy breeze:
“Merry Christmas to all — now come visit the Keys!”

To watch an underwater video of Santa Keys, click here.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, On the Water, Quirks, Voices Main Archive

Once upon a time (way back in 1982), the Florida Keys & Key West seceded from the union and formed the independent Conch Republic. This wasn’t a joke. In fact, it was a last-ditch attempt to get the U.S. Border Patrol to remove a blockade it had erected at the head of the Keys — where agents searched outgoing cars for unspecified contraband, tied up traffic interminably, and nearly annihilated the Keys’ fledgling tourist trade.

Even NBC "Today" weatherman Al Roker (left) and anchor Matt Lauer are fans of the Conch Republic. Here they display the republic's flag during a special broadcast from Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

So, like any intelligent population blessed with a creative mindset and lively sense of humor, some good citizens and friends of the Keys came up with an offbeat, attention-getting response: they staged the island chain’s secession from the mother country.

It was a stunningly effective solution to the problem. Following the international media hoopla generated by the gutsy action, the blockade was quietly dismantled, never to return.

The concept of the Conch Republic, however, has far outlived the incident that spawned it. While Keys citizens are technically still Americans, today Conch Republic flags and passports are common — and the secession’s anniversary is celebrated each year with a fun-filled festival.

The concept of the Conch Republic appeals to the independent, nonconformist spirit of Keys residents (and those who dream of becoming residents). And recently, one of the republic’s founding fathers discovered that it also appealed to a citizenry on the other side of the world.

Intrepid traveler Stuart Newman discovered a Conch Republic-like country in faraway New Zealand.

While he was in New Zealand representing the Florida Keys & Key West at the annual Society of American Travel Writers convention, honorary Conch Republican Stuart Newman took time off to explore the countryside. Driving along the Lost World Highway, he encountered the “Republic of Whangamomona.”

Here, in Stuart’s own words, is the tale of his remarkable discovery.

Whangamomona, NZ — Halfway around the world from the Florida Keys, residents of tiny town on New Zealand’s North Island, arguably inspired by Key West’s 1982 Conch Republic rebellion, seven years later seceded and formed the “Republic of Whangamomona.”

In 1989, dissatisfied with a series of governmental redistricting changes, the elder gurus of the community of less than 180 gathered at the pub of the local six-room hotel/restaurant — and declared Whangamomona to be an independent republic.

The republic of Whamgamomona is governed from this unassuming hotel. (Photo by Stuart Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Located in New Zealand’s Manawatu-Wanganui region, Whangamomona is accessible via the Lost World Highway (NZ 43) — not exactly the caliber of the Keys’ U.S. 1, since it boasts a 90-mile stretch without a service station.

Whangamomona’s first president, Ian Kjestrup, was elected after his name was placed on the ballot without his knowledge.

Kjestrup served from 1989 through 1999 and was succeeded by Billy Gumboot, a goat (!), who won by eating the ballots of the other candidates. Gumboot served 18 months before being succeeded by a poodle named Tai, who served from 2003 to 2004 and retired following a reported assassination attempt.

The present chief of state, garage owner Murt “Murtle the Turtle” Kennard, won out over founding father Kjestrup and a cross-dresser named Miriam (sound familiar?) by a single vote. He was overwhelmingly re-elected this year.

Like the Conch Republic, Whangamomona has a population of indigenous poultry.

Today, the tiny “country” of Whangamomona is replete with Conch Republic-type passports and official T-shirts. Every other year in January (summer in New Zealand), the town celebrates Republic Day, which attracts thousands of visitors from throughout the North Island.

As Stuart discovered, clearly the citizens of Whangamomona share an irreverent mindset and good-spirited sense of fun with the denizens of the Conch Republic. Those attributes will take center stage in the Keys April 20-29, 2012, during the 30th annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration.

Why not come down for the festivities and declare your own independence?

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Events, Festivals, Highlights, History, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, Quirks, Senior Adventures, Voices Main Archive

Tis the season for holly, lights, trees, gifts, Christmas cards (yes, I still send them via snail mail), eggnog, and the never-ending round of holiday parties.  Our bars are dressed for the season, as are their entertainers.

in Key West, even the divas do double duty as Santa's helpers. (Photo by Larry Blackburn)

Sushi is at work sewing her gown for the 16th annual New Year’s Eve “red high heel” drop. On Dec. 31, we lower Sushi, 801 Bourbon Cabaret’s drag mother, in a six-foot red stiletto at the stroke of midnight from the balcony of the Bourbon Street Pub. As the shoe “drops” to ring in the New Year, thousands of spectators cheer from the street below while the air swirls with fairy dust and confetti. If you can’t be here, you can watch this live on Anderson Cooper’s CNN New Year’s Eve program.

Last evening the Equator Resort hosted the Key West Business Guild’s monthly membership mixer. Dressed in festive attire, we sported fun holiday antlers, flashing lights and mistletoe.

These days there are so many things to see and do in Key West — and an easy way to begin is to take a stroll along Front Street.

Sushi, a.k.a. Key West resident Gary Marion, stars in the "drag queen drop" that welcomes the New Year in Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

A holiday party hosted by the Innkeepers Association kicked off the season at the Key West Art Center and Gallery on the popular street. Established more than 50 years ago, this institution provides a central spot for local artists to show and sell their works.

The center has sponsored the Key West Craft Show each January for the last 27 years. This two-day juried outdoor craft festival brings to the island more than 100 artisans who display and sell their creations along shaded Whitehead Street — and curving through the Presidential Gates into historic Truman Annex.

In addition, for 47 years, the center has sponsored the Old Island Days Art Festival each February. This is also a juried show that sets up on Whitehead Street, drawing stellar artists to display their beautiful creations.

And if you happen to be in town on the second Wednesday of any month, you can attend the center’s membership meetings, which feature a demonstration of art or sculpture, or lectures on art history or printing techniques.

Key West Craft Show attendees examine a lovely bowl by local artist Janis Childs. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Art Center)

Behind the Art Center is the Key West Aquarium. Built during the Great Depression in the 1930s, this was the first aquarium to use the open-air concept, allowing natural sunlight to illuminate the displays.

Admission in those early days was 15 cents for adults and 5 cents for children. The aquarium is still a bargain to visit and pass a couple of hours petting sharks and viewing stingrays and conchs. You’re permitted to hold some of the sea life for photos, and then watch the resident sharks being fed.

Next to the aquarium is the historic Custom House Museum. Built in 1891, this multi-storied building housed customs officials during the era when wrecking made Key West the richest city per capita in America. It also housed the post office and courthouse.

More recently, after the building was boarded up for years, the Key West Art & Historical Society undertook a nine-year, $9-million restoration project to bring it back to its original glory.

Seward Johnson's gigantic "American Gothic" figures stood outside the Custom House Museum until they were replaced by another pair of Johnson giants. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

There are rotating exhibitions in the museum, as well as one that showcases the woodcarvings of the late Key Wester Mario Sanchez. Intriguing life-sized (and much larger!) pieces by noted sculptor Seward Johnson can be found both inside and around the museum.

The museum’s most recent exhibit commemorates the upcoming 100th anniversary of the completion of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad, which carried passengers from mainland Florida throughout the Keys to Key West for the very first time.

If reading this makes you eager to visit Key West to see it for yourself, enter the Florida Keys Cyber-Train to Sunshine Contest to win a six-night vacation in the island chain. The competition is being held in conjunction with the Over-Sea Railroad anniversary celebration — just click here for all the information you need to enter.

Till next time … happy holidays to all of you!

Topics: Arts, Events, Festivals, History, Key West, LGBT