Keys LGBT

What to Do in Key West — Where Do We Begin???

Often I’m asked what there is to do in Key West. That’s a loaded question, because our little island has so many options that it’s difficult to describe — and impossible to do everything.

Ladies in early 1900s attire participate in a recent Key West parade to honor the centennial anniversary of the completion of Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Ladies in early 1900s attire participate in a recent Key West parade to honor the centennial anniversary of the completion of Henry Flagler's Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

For example, visitors to Key West in recent weeks could have experienced a drag queen lowered to the street in a six-foot red stiletto on New Year’s Eve, a seafood festival, the 30th annual Key West Literary Seminar, two parades down Duval Street that included everything from bicycles and antique cars to marching bands and Boy Scouts, a premiere yacht race, the centennial celebration of Henry Flagler’s Over-Sea Railroad, and the Ragnar Relay that brought hundreds of colorful runners for a 199-mile relay race.

Our theatres are constantly producing exceptional shows, from those penned by local authors to Broadway hits. In February, the Waterfront Playhouse is offering “Dead Man’s Cell Phone” and the Red Barn Theatre is staging the Broadway smash hit “God of Carnage.”

One of my favorite February events is Valentine’s Day at the Curry Mansion Inn — a gala now in its 29th year. Caroline Street outside the inn will be closed as several hundred locals and visitors join the festivities to raise funds for the Wesley House, a local organization serving Keys families and children.

Would you let this costumed character preside over your bingo game? Scores of people do each Sunday in Key West.

Would you let this costumed character preside over your bingo game? Scores of people do each Sunday in Key West.

The event includes the largest silent auction in Key West, food from great local restaurants, fabulous entertainment including our own Howard Livingston and Honey Mouth performing in two areas, free-flowing libations and colorfully dressed attendees.

Last year’s gala raised more than $60,000 for services provided to the children of the Keys. It takes lots of volunteer hours to produce events of this type, but we seem to have an endless supply of hours to share with our community. (If you want to attend, tickets are available at KeysTix.)

A dazzling star of this island is Mitch Jones. Qmitch, as he calls himself on his Facebook page, is a product of Rocky Mount, N.C.  Raised as a “good ole Southern boy” in a quiet Baptist household, he never missed a Sunday church event.

Mitch was a charter member of the American Airlines Executive Platinum desk, where he catered to the needs of the airline’s top 2 percent VIP customers. Luckily for us, he took an early leave and brought his personality, talent, and generosity to the island on the unique date of 06/06/06.

Key West's own Sushi recently found herself a "centerfold" in the pages of Reader's Digest.

Key West's own Sushi recently found herself a "centerfold" in the pages of Reader's Digest.

In addition to raising funds for many local charities, Mitch took the helm of 801’s Sunday Bingo after Key West’s beloved RV Beaumont left us. Each Sunday, a full house of raucous faithful locals and visitors is greeted by Mitch in a one-of-a-kind outfit. FYI, in addition to the funds bingo raises for charity, Mitch will auction his outfits to benefit the charity.

Stop by some Sunday (before 5 p.m. to insure a space to perch), buy a few bingo cards, and buckle your seatbelt for the bingo your granny never got to experience. But even if you’re not in Key West, you can catch Mitch’s Sunday Bingo live online at World Famous Drag Queen Bingo — or check out a rerun!

On a final note, surprises often come in small packages. This week I was treated to Reader’s Digest Magazine’s “Best of 2011 Rollicking Roundup.”  Spread over two pages was Key West’s own favorite drag queen Sushi on New Year’s Eve, perched in the red stiletto overlooking thousands on Duval Street in front of Bourbon St. Pub. What a treat to see her featured in this global publication!

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Flavors of the Florida Keys Await January Visitors

We’re halfway through January and the weather here in Key West has been glorious. After a couple of cool days, we’re back into the 70’s — with shorts, T- shirts, and sandals the appropriate winter wear.

Even Key West canines, like "blog dog" Giulio shown here, have been enjoying the warm January weather. (Photo by Steve Smith)

Even Key West canines, like "blog dog" Giulio shown here, have been enjoying the warm January weather. (Photo by Steve Smith)

We do dress up a bit. On occasion you’ll see us in jeans, cargo shorts, and shirts with collars — and I recently sported my tux jacket with a nice pair of shorts. When you pack for a visit here, remember that you won’t need dinner jackets, ties, or “spit-shined” shoes.

(And if you see the weather in mainland Florida looking cold, remember that Key West is 156 miles southwest of the mainland and we rarely share the same weather — except for the fabled sunshine!)

Key West is known for great eating, as I wrote in my November blog. One of the great upcoming “foodie” events is the third annual Key West Food and Wine Festival, which starts Thursday, Jan. 26, and runs through Sunday, Jan. 29.

The Key West Food and Wine Festival offers innovative cuisine, fine wines and unique island experiences.

The Key West Food and Wine Festival offers innovative cuisine, fine wines and unique island experiences.

This gastronomic celebration offers creative cuisine, premium wines, and unique events only found on our subtropical island.

Kick off the weekend without your shoes or sandals as you join friends for a beach party like nothing you’ve ever attended before. Then play at the historic Key West Aquarium while you sample fine wines and savor delicacies from land and sea. You might spot mermaids, sharks, turtles or indigenous tarpon as you enjoy entertainment by Fancy Pants Entertainment during the “Turtles and Sharks and Mermaids, OH MY! Grand Tasting.”

Chocoholics will experience true bliss when fine organic chocolates are paired with perfect wines during the “Life is a Glass of Chocolate” event at the Lush Bar located at the Green Pineapple on Duval Street.

On Saturday evening, the island’s renowned Duval Street becomes an appetizing avenue during “Duval Uncorked 2012.” The neighborhood’s finest restaurants will be serving samplings of their signature dishes, while the chic boutiques, funky shops and galleries offer wines and hors d’oeuvres. As you stroll you’ll meet Key West’s many personalities and performance artists, and see stellar spectacles.

Stone crabs are a delectable, and renewable, Florida Keys seafood specialty. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Stone crabs are a delectable, and renewable, Florida Keys seafood specialty. (Photo by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Each day, the festival schedule offers many events, venues, tastes, and experiences to choose among. Take the weekend to stroll the neighborhoods from Bahama Village to the Historic Seaport. Other events include cooking contests, food and wine seminars, and outdoor markets.

Tickets and/or festival VIP passes are needed for the events and are available at the Key West Food and Wine Festival website. There you’ll also find information about participating lodging and comments from previous years’ guests.

If you can’t make the Key West festival, the end of January brings the third annual Stone Crab & Seafood Festival in Key Largo.  Set for Saturday and Sunday, Jan. 28-29, it’s a great family event featuring local seafood, live musical entertainment, cooking demonstrations, and fun for the kids too!  Key Largo is a short trip from mainland Florida down the recently completed 18-Mile Stretch.

So tantalize your palate, and have the time of your life at one or both of these fabulous festivals. After all, there’s nothing more delicious than the flavors of the Florida Keys.

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Dachshunds and Drag Queen Starred in Key West’s New Year’s Eve

You had to be there, and boy am I glad I was. There’s nothing — absolutely nothing — like New Year’s Eve in Key West.

"Keys Voices" author/editor Carol Shaughnessy (right) and her friend Maria Newman try Sushi's shoe on for size. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

"Keys Voices" author/editor Carol Shaughnessy (in shoe at left) and her friend Maria Newman try Sushi's shoe on for size. (All photos by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

That’s because, each year, the island city’s offbeat populace stages three wonderful warm-weather takeoffs on the fabled New Year’s Eve “ball drop” in New York’s Times Square: the “red shoe drop” featuring elegant drag queen Sushi in a super-sized red high heel, the “drop” of a giant manmade conch shell (the symbol of the Florida Keys) above legendary Sloppy Joe’s Bar, and the descent of a winsome pirate wench from the top of a majestic sailing ship’s mast in the Historic Seaport.

But before that happens each New Year’s Eve, Key West goes to the dogs. Dachshunds, to be precise. And this year, there were 227 of them — all parading down Fleming Street in the tail-wagging, smile-inducing annual Key West Dachshund Walk at noon Dec. 31.

The long-bodied, short-legged participants included miniature and standard dachshunds, many of them costumed or wearing offbeat accessories.

Esme O'Kelly carries her canine Duna, costumed as an iguana, during the Key West Dachshund Walk. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Esme O'Kelly carries her canine Duna, costumed as an iguana, during the Key West Dachshund Walk.

Among the standouts were a pair of dogs dressed as Green Bay Packers cheerleaders, “party animals” in feather boas and top hats, a floppy-eared Elvis impersonator, a “horse” with a cowboy doll rider, and a “newshound” dubbed Woof Blitzer — who wore a functioning video camera and shot dogs-eye footage of the wacky walk.

Key Wester Esme O’Kelly dressed her nine-year-old dachshund Duna as a bright-green iguana with a three-foot-long tail (the costume, Esme confessed, was constructed out of green fishnet stockings!). Duna, who didn’t seem to mind wearing it at all, ambled down the street attracting attention from hundreds of dachshund-loving spectators.

Later on New Year’s Eve, the focus turned from dachshunds to divas — led by the dazzling Sushi and covered live during Anderson Cooper’s New Year’s Eve show on CNN (for the ninth consecutive year, believe it or not!).

The dazzling Sushi prepares to welcome 2012 during the New Year's Eve "drag queen drop" in Key West.

Sushi prepares to welcome 2012 during the New Year's Eve "drag queen drop" in Key West.

Thousands of revelers gathered on Key West’s Duval Street outside the Bourbon St. Pub/New Orleans House complex to watch the lavishly costumed Sushi “drop” in her high-heeled chariot.

“About 15 years ago we started a tradition here in Key West of me being lowered in a giant glittery red shoe, at the stroke of midnight, in full drag,” said Sushi, otherwise known as Key West resident Gary Marion.

An incredibly talented seamstress and costume designer, this year she created a vivid tangerine gown for the event. Its Victorian flavor was inspired by the upcoming centennial of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad.

CNN’s stellar John Zarrella, dashingly dressed in a tux despite the balmy weather, provided lighthearted commentary to viewers around the world as drag queens and dancers entertained before the “drop” — enthralling spectators that ranged from couples to seniors and families.

2012 got off to a wonderful start in the fabulous Florida Keys.

2012 got off to a wonderful start in the fabulous Florida Keys.

“When I was a little kid I never really dreamed about being in drag, let alone being lowered in a giant red heel,” Sushi admitted. “What a way to make a living, though — it’s fabulous.”

Seconds before midnight, the shoe and its passenger were lowered from the complex’s second-story balcony toward the cheering crowd below.

As midnight struck and 2012 officially began, Sushi landed and gleefully popped the cork on a ceremonial bottle of champagne.

Dachshunds, drag queens and lovely 70-degree temperatures even at midnight … what a way to welcome 2012!

And in the often magical Florida Keys, it’s a good bet that the rest of the year will live up to its kickoff.

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It’s Showtime: A Backstage View of Key West’s Theater Highlights

The countdown is on and 2011 will soon be part of our memories of good times shared — and we’ll be looking forward to the adventures 2012 will bring us!  The Mayan prophesies might say there’s just a year left until the world’s demise, but you’d never know it, given all the upcoming events and activities in Key West.

"Forbidden Broadway" graces the Red Barn's stage through mid-January. (Photo courtesy of the Red Barn Theatre)

"Forbidden Broadway" graces the Red Barn's stage through mid-January. (Photo courtesy of the Red Barn Theatre)

For example, all our theaters are up and running with fabulous seasons. Among them is one built as a carriage house in 1829. Used on and off during the 1940s by the Key West Players, and operated in the 1970s as a venue for puppet shows and piano concerts by renowned pianist Yehuda Guttman, in 1980 it became the now-beloved Red Barn Theatre, located at 319 Duval St.

Headlining the Barn’s 32nd season is a stroll through “Broadway in Paradise” — the Tony Award-winning show “Forbidden Broadway” runs through mid-January.  Featuring one of my favorite Keys performers, Marjorie Paul-Shook, this musical spins through 75 costume changes.  Following “Forbidden” is the 2010 award winner “Red.” Tickets to this intimate theater sell out quickly, so it’s best to plan ahead to avoid being disappointed.

A five-minute walk brings you to the 150-seat Waterfront Playhouse on Mallory Square. The theater’s founding Key West Players have been entertaining the island for more than 70 years. I remember the days when the playhouse had no air conditioning and uncomfortable seats, but (as always!) darn good theater.

The Waterfront Playhouse is wowing crowds with "August: Osage County." (Photo courtesy of the Waterfront Playhouse)

The Waterfront Playhouse is wowing crowds with "August: Osage County." (Photo courtesy of the Waterfront Playhouse)

The stage has been graced by some of Key West’s best talents including former Fantasy Fest kings Tom Luna and George Murphy.  Kelly McGillis, Charles Busch, Terrance McNally, Israel Horowitz and Carl Hiaasen are among the luminaries that have performed there.

This season opened with the Pulitzer Prize and Tony Award Best Play winner “August:  Osage County,” a dark comedy that transforms a family gathering into a mélange of sex, secrets, and really inappropriate behavior.  It’s said to be one of the best shows ever at the Waterfront, so watch a brief video of “August” and make your plans now to see this “bitch of a family reunion.”

The Tennessee Williams Theatre, located on the campus of Florida Keys Community College, brings monthly performances to its stage giving us a chance to see big-city entertainment in our island setting.  Built in the 1960s with Tennessee Williams himself assisting in the groundbreaking, the theatre is operated by the Performing Arts Centers for Key West/Tennessee Williams Theatre.

Blog author Steve Smith wishes everyone a Happy New Year ... no matter WHAT the Mayan prophesies say!

Blog author Steve Smith wishes everyone a Happy New Year ... no matter WHAT the Mayan prophesies say!

The 2012 season kicks off with The Midtown Men, starring four from the original cast of “Jersey Boys.”  On Feb. 3, you can join them in celebrating the sounds of the 1960s at their one-of-a-kind concert.  Other upcoming performances include Monty Python’s “SPAMALOT” and the world-renowned Pilobolus.

As well as great theater, we celebrate local seafood as one of our treasures. On Jan. 14, join us at the Florida Keys Seafood Festival in Bayview Park. We feast on fried fish, grilled Florida lobster, stone crab claws, Key West pink shrimp, conch fritters, and smoked fish dip.

The event features live entertainment and is a social gathering with members of our One Human Family.  Stake out a comfortable spot to spread out, because at 6 p.m. the Keys’ own Howard Livingston & the Mile Marker 24 Band take the stage for a free two-hour concert under the stars.

If you believe in a popular interpretation of Mayan prophesies, we’ve got just one year left until the world ends on Dec. 21, 2012.  Make your plans to visit us in Key West soon; in fact, if you can’t get here beforehand, come down Dec. 20 — I’m sure we’ll have a special event taking place!

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Seasonal Soirees and a Front Street Stroll

Tis the season for holly, lights, trees, gifts, Christmas cards (yes, I still send them via snail mail), eggnog, and the never-ending round of holiday parties.  Our bars are dressed for the season, as are their entertainers.

At Key West's Aqua, even the divas do double duty as Santa's helpers. (Photo by Larry Blackburn)

in Key West, even the divas do double duty as Santa's helpers. (Photo by Larry Blackburn)

Sushi is at work sewing her gown for the 16th annual New Year’s Eve “red high heel” drop. On Dec. 31, we lower Sushi, 801 Bourbon Cabaret’s drag mother, in a six-foot red stiletto at the stroke of midnight from the balcony of the Bourbon Street Pub. As the shoe “drops” to ring in the New Year, thousands of spectators cheer from the street below while the air swirls with fairy dust and confetti. If you can’t be here, you can watch this live on Anderson Cooper’s CNN New Year’s Eve program.

Last evening the Equator Resort hosted the Key West Business Guild’s monthly membership mixer. Dressed in festive attire, we sported fun holiday antlers, flashing lights and mistletoe.

These days there are so many things to see and do in Key West — and an easy way to begin is to take a stroll along Front Street.

Sushi, a.k.a. Key West resident Gary Marion, stars in the "drag queen drop" that welcomes the New Year in Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

Sushi, a.k.a. Key West resident Gary Marion, stars in the "drag queen drop" that welcomes the New Year in Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

A holiday party hosted by the Innkeepers Association kicked off the season at the Key West Art Center and Gallery on the popular street. Established more than 50 years ago, this institution provides a central spot for local artists to show and sell their works.

The center has sponsored the Key West Craft Show each January for the last 27 years. This two-day juried outdoor craft festival brings to the island more than 100 artisans who display and sell their creations along shaded Whitehead Street — and curving through the Presidential Gates into historic Truman Annex.

In addition, for 47 years, the center has sponsored the Old Island Days Art Festival each February. This is also a juried show that sets up on Whitehead Street, drawing stellar artists to display their beautiful creations.

And if you happen to be in town on the second Wednesday of any month, you can attend the center’s membership meetings, which feature a demonstration of art or sculpture, or lectures on art history or printing techniques.

Key West Craft Show attendees examine a lovely bowl by Key West artist Janice Childs. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Art Center)

Key West Craft Show attendees examine a lovely bowl by local artist Janis Childs. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Art Center)

Behind the Art Center is the Key West Aquarium. Built during the Great Depression in the 1930s, this was the first aquarium to use the open-air concept, allowing natural sunlight to illuminate the displays.

Admission in those early days was 15 cents for adults and 5 cents for children. The aquarium is still a bargain to visit and pass a couple of hours petting sharks and viewing stingrays and conchs. You’re permitted to hold some of the sea life for photos, and then watch the resident sharks being fed.

Next to the aquarium is the historic Custom House Museum. Built in 1891, this multi-storied building housed customs officials during the era when wrecking made Key West the richest city per capita in America. It also housed the post office and courthouse.

More recently, after the building was boarded up for years, the Key West Art & Historical Society undertook a nine-year, $9-million restoration project to bring it back to its original glory.

Seward Johnson's gigantic "American Gothic" figures stood outside the Key West Museum of Art & HIstory until they were replaced by another evocative pair of Johnson giants. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Seward Johnson's gigantic "American Gothic" figures stood outside the Custom House Museum until they were replaced by another pair of Johnson giants. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

There are rotating exhibitions in the museum, as well as one that showcases the woodcarvings of the late Key Wester Mario Sanchez. Intriguing life-sized (and much larger!) pieces by noted sculptor Seward Johnson can be found both inside and around the museum.

The museum’s most recent exhibit commemorates the upcoming 100th anniversary of the completion of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad, which carried passengers from mainland Florida throughout the Keys to Key West for the very first time.

If reading this makes you eager to visit Key West to see it for yourself, enter the Florida Keys Cyber-Train to Sunshine Contest to win a six-night vacation in the island chain. The competition is being held in conjunction with the Over-Sea Railroad anniversary celebration — just click here for all the information you need to enter.

Till next time … happy holidays to all of you!

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Celebrate the Season with Tinsel and Tiaras

Deck the halls and get ready for the holidays in Key West! There was a very short lull in events here last week, so we rushed around sprinkling fairy dust across the city in preparation for Christmas and Santa’s trip through the Keys.

Who's that hanging out with the Grinch at a past Key West Holiday Parade? Chris Belland from Historic Tours of America (left) and blog author Steve Smith (right).

Who's that hanging out with the Grinch at a past Key West Holiday Parade? Chris Belland from Historic Tours of America (left) and blog author Steve Smith (right).

This Saturday, Dec. 3, our Holiday Parade will again roll down Truman Avenue and Duval Street delighting the kids and us grown-ups. Santa will be in town, but it’s anyone’s guess how he will traverse the streets. We do know the parade will feature decorated floats, boats, trains and trolleys, bicycles, mopeds, and even a holiday dog walk.

After the lively procession passes by, take a stroll through the Historic Seaport and enjoy the Key West Harbor Walk of Lights. The entire area above and below the sea will sparkle with lights, garlands with a tropical twist, and a harborfront Christmas tree. You’ll find shops and galleries offering a warm welcome while you enjoy libations and live music.

Throughout the holiday season, consider a nontraditional treat: enjoy our local drag queens as they offer special holiday shows (tiaras, anyone?). Inga and the Aquanettes fill the recently remodeled nightclub with locals and visitors, while Sushi and her 801 Girls will be entertaining every night in an intimate cabaret.

Renowned drag queen Inga (standing) celebrates with Santa and his cohorts in Key West. (Photo by Kenne Tucker)

Renowned drag queen Inga (back) joins Santa and some cohorts in Key West. (Photo by Kenne Tucker)

Key West is known for its beautiful historic inns, and the Holiday Historic Inn Tour is a perfect way to visit the properties. The self-guided walking tour allows you to go into the inns, view their decorations, enjoy fine food from some of our best restaurants and sip your favorite cocktail. Those who aren’t into walking can hop on a decorated trolley and tour both the inns and our neighborhoods to view holiday lights and outdoor décor.

Thursday, Dec. 8, join us for the 10th Annual Share The Wreath fundraising event benefiting Key West’s AIDS Help. Established by the late Ronda Riviera, Queen Mother and Miss Firecracker 2001, this fun and creative event starts out with some simple plain wreaths. Local celebrities and artists take the wreaths and turn them into fascinating lighted works of art, letting their imaginations run wild. It’s a great opportunity to take home a one-of-a-kind piece of Keys art.

Speaking of fundraising, the 8th annual Southernmost AIDS/HIV Smart Ride bicycle event took place recently, with cyclists undertaking a 165-mile journey from the mainland to Key West. This year’s event saw over 650 riders.

The group included many Key Westers and others from the United Kingdom, Canada, Germany and most of the states in the U.S. making their way to our island.

Riders in the Southernmost AIDS/HIV Smart Ride celebrate concluding their trek in Key West. (Photo by Peter Arnow)

Riders in the Southernmost AIDS/HIV Smart Ride celebrate concluding their trek in Key West. (Photo by Peter Arnow)

These riders, ranging from 18 to 73 years old, raised more than $675,000 — which goes directly to six Florida AIDS service organizations.

You might consider riding in next year’s event. It’s a wonderful way to give to our communities while making lifelong friends. And bicycling down the scenic Overseas Highway is a great way to start a vacation on the southernmost island in the continental United States!

Getting back to holiday events … on Saturday, Dec. 10, head once again to the Historic Seaport for the annual Schooner Wharf Lighted Boat Parade.  Parade entries typically range from kayaks with battery-operated lights to fishing vessels and tall classic schooners — some decked in traditional holiday finery, and some offering island-style salutes to the season.

New Year’s Eve is another special night in Key West. Sushi, drag mother of the 801 Girls, rings in the new year perched in a super-sized red stiletto high above Duval Street. This Keys event has been featured live on CNN for many years — and for good reason.

There’s still time to book your room for Christmas and New Year’s weeks, so come on down and celebrate the season with a Florida Keys flair!

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An Insider’s Taste of Key West … Yummm!

As the holidays approach at warp speed, we’re starting to hang icicles and colored lights in our palm trees and across our houses. Soon the Key West neighborhoods will look like a winter wonderland — without the snow!

Spotted at a recent Key West Business Guild mixer are blog author Steve Smith (right), guild executive director Rebecca Tomlinson (center) and guild office manager Patrick Shanks.

Spotted at a Key West Business Guild pre-holiday mixer are blog author Steve Smith (right), guild executive director Rebecca Tomlinson (center) and guild office manager Patrick Shanks.

Since many of you may be heading this way during the festive season, this week I’d like to stimulate your appetites with a tour of some of my favorite Key West eateries.

Mornings are always a treat with a variety of Keys twists on the breakfast experience — like the wide choice of Eggs Benedict served at Blue Heaven in the heart of Bahama Village. Choose from ham, vegetable, filet mignon, or their special lobster benedict. Add a slice of warm homemade banana bread, and you have a feast! Blue Heaven’s dining is outdoors with live music, wandering hens and “gypsy” roosters running around the courtyard. Their own Bloody Mary will kick-start your day.

If you’re longing for French cuisine, check out La Creperie just across the street from Blue Heaven. Serving savory and sweet crepes, this café will tantalize your senses with the aroma of strong French coffee, sizzling butter, and a mixture of accents from around the world. I find it hard to pass up their Croque Madame followed by a “Red Velvet” sweet crepe. Other favorite French cafés are Banana Café and Croissants de France, both located on Duval Street.

Yolande and Sylvia are the guiding spirits behind the great La Creperie. (Photo by Rob O'Neal)

Yolande and Sylvie are the guiding spirits behind the great La Creperie. (Photo by Rob O'Neal)

If I sleep in and feel “brunchie,” you’ll often find me at Harpoon Harry’s. This true 1950’s diner is located across from the Historic Seaport on Caroline Street, and owners Robert and Ron will greet you and offer you a “Bloody Harry.” In their diner you can try fish tacos, Blue Plate specials or half-pound burgers. You’ll dine with colorful local fishermen, politicians and pundits, drag queens and tourists.

If a quieter spot suits you better for brunch, try owner/chef Drew Wenzel’s Azur Restaurant. Azur offers al fresco lunch by a waterfall, or an intimate moment in their dining room surrounded by the works of local artists.

Around midday, stop by Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe on the corner of Elizabeth and Greene Streets. Pieman Kermit can be seen in the street offering a Key lime pie to the riders of our local trolleys as they make the turn beside his emporium. Kermit has been featured on the “Today Show” and the Food Network, decked out in his chef’s jacket and Key lime green chef’s hat. (For a real treat, try his frozen chocolate-dipped Key lime pie on a stick!)

Key lime pie guru Kermit Carpenter doesn't really throw pies at visitors -- or does he?

Key lime pie guru Kermit Carpenter doesn't really throw pies at visitors -- or does he?

Time for dinner? Discover El Siboney for an authentic Cuban meal where fresh pork, seafood, and chicken are cooked with olive oil, garlic, and secret spices. In true Cuban fashion, the meals are accompanied by black beans, yellow rice, and fried plantains. If you favor fresh seafood Paella Valenciana, call in advance and bring a couple of friends — I don’t think I’ve ever seen as large a dish of paella served anywhere.

A hidden treasure and favorite of mine is the Flaming Buoy Filet Company. Owners Fred Isch and Scot Forste are outrageously entertaining and their dinners are over the top. Steak with blue cheese sauce, black grouper, and scallops wrapped in bacon will tickle your palate. Their lip-smacking lobster mac & cheese is beyond amazing.

When it’s time for dessert, stop in to Flamingo Crossing. For many years this ice cream parlor has churned flavors that include mango, Cuban coffee, guava and passion fruit gelatos. Try the guanabana (soursop) for an interestingly unique Key West flavor. The place offers front-row seats on a busy Duval Street corner, where you’ll suddenly find you have become a part of the colorful fabric that makes up our community. Maybe I’ll see you there!

Till next time … bon appetit!

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Key West Revelry Continues with Parrot Heads and Pirates

Fantasy Fest, themed “Aquatic Afrolic,” came to a close in Key West with the “Fat Lady Sings” tea dance at La Te Da. At this year’s festival, we were treated to elaborate headdresses, creative costuming, artistic body painting, hundreds of zombies promenading down Duval Street, and the Captain Morgan Fantasy Fest Parade through the streets of Old Town with more than 50 glittering floats and marching groups.

Costumers displayed stunning creativity at Fantasy Fest's Headdress Ball.

Costumers displayed stunning creativity at Fantasy Fest's Headdress Ball.

Many attendees this year enjoyed themselves so much that they’ve already booked their rooms for the 2012 festival, to be themed “A-Conch-Alypse!” and take place Oct. 19-28 — so start thinking about your costumes and booking your accommodations!

November slid in behind the festival, beginning with the 20th annual Parrot Heads in Paradise convention. Some 3,500 of singer/songwriter Jimmy Buffett’s fans descended on the island with their colorful headgear, tropical shirts, flip flops, shorts and/or sundresses to dance in the streets of the island that inspired many of Jimmy’s classic songs.

In reality, Parrot Heads are a very charitable group who enjoy the music of their idol and focus on contributing to local and national charities. Since 2002, some 27,000 members of 237 Parrot Head chapters from three countries have raised more than $22.1 million dollars for charitable organizations — and collectively contributed nearly 2.7 million hours of community service.

Parrot Heads are flocking to Key West to celebrate the music of Jimmy Buffett and the Keys lifestyle it encourages. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

"Parrot Heads" are flocking to Key West to celebrate the music of Jimmy Buffett and the Keys lifestyle it encourages. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Unfortunately, I’m missing the lively group since I’m at the opening of the 12th International Conference on Gay and Lesbian Tourism in Palm Springs, California. Several hundred global leaders in gay and lesbian tourism are meeting to share ideas, network, and learn about LGBT travel trends garnered from a survey of more than 60,000 gays across North and South America.

We learned that LGBT/GLBT, gay, lesbian, partner, husband/wife, sexual orientation, and gender identity are widely accepted phrases when referring to our community; it is no longer accepted to consider us an “alternative” lifestyle or market, mention “sexual preference” or say “those people.” It’s somewhat taboo now to call our community “homosexuals” or “queers.”

There will be great discussions with this group of travel professionals — who may come from very rural areas, communities like Key West, or even countries that have much different cultural attitudes than we do in the Conch Republic.

On another note, if you’re into pirates, we’ll be hosting the annual Pirates in Paradise festival in a few short weeks. Starting Nov. 24, our island will be invaded by swashbucklers, wenches, and bold buccaneers — all in traditional seafaring attire.

Aspiring seafarers can experience sunset pirate cruises on the “pirate vessel” Schooner Wolf during Pirates in Paradise. (Photo courtesy of the Schooner Wolf)

Aspiring seafarers can experience sunset cruises on the “pirate vessel” Schooner Wolf during Pirates in Paradise. (Photo courtesy of the Schooner Wolf)

You can join their festivities at the Pirate Village & Market, dine with pirates and wenches at Thanksgiving’s “Thankstaken Pirates’ Holiday Party & Feast,” unleash your inner swashbuckler by competing in the “Most Buxom Wench & Bad Ass Pirate Contest” and much more. In addition, you can cruise the high seas on daily sunset sails on the Schooner Wolf with Admiral Finbar and the Pirates in Paradise crew.

Just before the pirates sail away at the festival’s end, we ready the island for Christmas with our annual Holiday Parade set for Dec. 3. You may think you’ve seen a Christmas parade, but you haven’t seen anything till you watch how we Key Westers strut our holiday cheer down Truman Avenue and Duval Street.

This is a family affair with Santa in a boat, drag queens and kids on floats and families lining the streets hoping for candy. (Yes, we throw tons of candy to the multitudes along the parade route.)

I’ll have more on the holidays next time!

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Fantasies Come to Life in Key West This Week!

The sun is shining, the start of Fantasy Fest is this week, and the island is buzzing with excitement!  I’ve pressed my toga, fluffed my beehive, and have my beads ready to dazzle the multitudes that arrive for Key West’s lavish masking and costuming festival.

How should you dress for Fantasy Fest? In the most elaborate, outrageous costumes you can find!

How should you dress for Fantasy Fest? In the most elaborate, outrageous costumes you can find!

At Atlanta Pride we met many people coming down for Fantasy Fest (which takes place, by the way, Oct. 21-30).  We answered questions about the events, how one should dress or what kind of dress to wear, what the different parties are like, what the Goombay Festival is, where people can get their bodies painted and just how much can be painted and uncovered.

One of Fantasy Fest’s highlights is the annual Headdress Ball, hosted by the Key West Business Guild and set for Tuesday, Oct. 25 — and it’s shaping up as a star-studded night to be remembered. It’s held under a mammoth white tent, and the evening’s contestants will dazzle your imagination with their creative headdresses. (Please note that judges only evaluate mask or headdress elements above the shoulders and over the head.) The winner walks away with a check for $1,500.

Wednesday brings the annual Pet Masquerade & Parade hosted at the historic Casa Marina Resort; Thursday brings the glittering Pretenders in Paradise costume competition hosted by the Pier House Resort.

Blog author Steve and his husband Paul join the Masquerade March in style.

Blog author Steve and his husband Paul join the Masquerade March in style.

My favorite event takes place Friday, Oct. 28: the Masquerade March through Old Town, drawing thousands of costumed revelers. The march begins at the local cemetery and divides into two groups to parade through the streets, stopping at bed-and-breakfast resorts for libations. At the close of the event, participants can spill onto Duval Street to explore a mile-long street fair offering arts, crafts, foods and costumed frivolity.

If marching through the streets doesn’t fulfill your fantasy, check out the Pirate Bash, Fetish & Fantasy Party, Pimp and Ho Party, Hair of the Hog Leather and Lace Party, Tea Dance in the Street at the 801 Bourbon Bar, or the Southernmost Sirens, Sea Nymphs and Sailors Costume Contest.

Saturday’s daytime hours feature the Duval Street Promenade with sassy entertainers, hot dancers at Bourbon St. Pub and the Epidermal Arts and Torso Tapestries cultural (!) event at the Green Parrot Bar.

After Fantasy Fest, a parade of a different kind will feature a section of Key West's internationally famous sea-to-sea rainbow flag.

After Fantasy Fest, a parade of a different kind will feature a section of Key West's internationally famous sea-to-sea rainbow flag.

The festival’s delicious madness reaches its peak for the Captain Morgan Fantasy Fest Parade, stepping off at 7 p.m. with dozens of entries delighting a crowd of around 60,000 people on Key West’s historic Whitehead and Duval streets. Trust me — there’s never a dull moment during our fabulous annual Fantasy Fest.

When my costumes are finally packed away, I’m off to Palm Springs, California, for the 12th International Conference on Gay & Lesbian Tourism, followed by Palm Springs Pride Nov. 5 and 6.  Be sure to stop by the Keys and Key West booth at the festival. And don’t miss seeing a section of our famed sea-to-sea rainbow flag, which will be carried in their parade Sunday starting at 10 a.m.

Till next time!

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Kings, Queens and Four-Footed Friends ‘at Large’ in Key West

Wow, time just keeps flying by on this island! September ended with the sloth of Bear Fest attendees growling, moaning, groaning, eating, drinking, and laughing as they enjoyed Key West. I played with the bears as I welcomed and escorted three German, two British, and three domestic journalists to the island.

Fort Jefferson, lying on a tiny island in the Dry Tortugas nearly 70 miles west of Key West, is a favorite spot for visitors eager to snorkel the cool, clear waters. (Photos by Rob O'Neal)

Fort Jefferson, lying on a tiny island in the Dry Tortugas nearly 70 miles west of Key West, is a favorite spot for visitors eager to snorkel the cool, clear waters. (Photos by Rob O'Neal)

In addition to the bear parties, my group enjoyed dinners at Mangoes, Antonia’s, Braza Lena, and Abbondanza Family Italian Restaurant. The days were spent on the Blu Q snorkeling and picnicking, visiting Fort Jefferson (one of the largest brick structures in North America, located 70 miles from Key West in the Gulf of Mexico), and walking and bicycling around historic Old Town Key West. The weather was splendid during their trip and a great time was had by all.

The Bear Fest bears also splashed in the pools at Big Ruby’s and the Island House, and watched the moon cross the sky while playing in the Bourbon Street pool and foam parties. (I would think it difficult to see the moon through mountains of foam — when you’re here, ask the Bourbon Street boys how one does it).

It was truly a weekend to be remembered. Next year’s Key West Bear Fest is set for Oct. 4-7, 2012.

The U.S.S. Spruance was commissioned at a sunset ceremony on Key West's waterfront. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The U.S.S. Spruance was commissioned at a sunset ceremony on Key West's waterfront. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Another event to remember took place Oct. 1. A new chapter in Key West’s nearly 200-year military history was written when the island hosted the commissioning of U.S.S. Spruance, the U.S. Navy’s most advanced destroyer. The sunset ceremony included the raising of the ship’s colors and a flyover by a Naval Air Station Key West fighter squadron.  This is the first time the subtropical island has hosted a Naval vessel commissioning — and it couldn’t have came at a better moment, just after the repeal of “Don’t Ask Don’t Tell” opened a new chapter of pride in serving our country.

October, by the way, contains a staggering number of events hosted by the candidates for king and queen of Fantasy Fest.  Recent highlights were an afternoon of music by our own Howard Livingston at Charlie Bauer’s Smokin’ Tuna Saloon, hosted by Dave Taylor, Cypress House general manager and candidate for king. Drop in sometime and enjoy a hidden treasure just steps from Duval Street.

Clockwork Orange won first place in the 2010 Headdress Ball. (Photo courtesy of Fantasy Fest)

Clockwork Orange won first place in the 2010 Headdress Ball. (Photo courtesy of Fantasy Fest)

Other candidate events included chocolate parties, wine tastings with the butterflies at the Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory (one of our award-winning gay-owned attractions), dinners, fashion shows, and sailing adventures.

If you’re here for Fantasy Fest, don’t miss the 29th annual Headdress Ball on Oct. 25. It’s sponsored by the Key West Business Guild and held in a massive tent on the grounds of the former Atlantic Shores at Southernmost on the Beach. Attendees will be entertained by some of Key West’s finest, including recording artist and local entertainer Faith Michaels.

Speaking of Fantasy Fest, you and your favorite pet should start planning your costumes for the festival’s annual Pet Masquerade and Parade. The wacky costume contest for domestic pets and their people takes place at the Casa Marina Resort Wednesday, Oct. 26.

Time to start choosing your four-footed friend's Pet Masquerade attire!

Time to start choosing your four-footed friend's Pet Masquerade attire!

Past competitors have included a leather-clad dog ‘driving’ a tiny hot rod, a ‘cocktail-loving’ cockatoo, a hairless cat in goggles, and an Asian ensemble starring a Great Pyrenees dog as a giant panda.

Let your imagination inspire you, and compete in the fun-filled event with your furred or feathered friend.

(After all, pets and their owners sometimes look alike, so now is your chance to dress alike too!)

I’m on the way to Atlanta Pride, but I’ll be back in plenty of time to frolic at Fantasy Fest. See you there!

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