As the holidays approach at warp speed, we’re starting to hang icicles and colored lights in our palm trees and across our houses. Soon the Key West neighborhoods will look like a winter wonderland — without the snow!

Spotted at a Key West Business Guild pre-holiday mixer are blog author Steve Smith (right), guild executive director Rebecca Tomlinson (center) and guild office manager Patrick Shanks.

Since many of you may be heading this way during the festive season, this week I’d like to stimulate your appetites with a tour of some of my favorite Key West eateries.

Mornings are always a treat with a variety of Keys twists on the breakfast experience — like the wide choice of Eggs Benedict served at Blue Heaven in the heart of Bahama Village. Choose from ham, vegetable, filet mignon, or their special lobster benedict. Add a slice of warm homemade banana bread, and you have a feast! Blue Heaven’s dining is outdoors with live music, wandering hens and “gypsy” roosters running around the courtyard. Their own Bloody Mary will kick-start your day.

If you’re longing for French cuisine, check out La Creperie just across the street from Blue Heaven. Serving savory and sweet crepes, this café will tantalize your senses with the aroma of strong French coffee, sizzling butter, and a mixture of accents from around the world. I find it hard to pass up their Croque Madame followed by a “Red Velvet” sweet crepe. Other favorite French cafés are Banana Café and Croissants de France, both located on Duval Street.

Yolande and Sylvie are the guiding spirits behind the great La Creperie. (Photo by Rob O'Neal)

If I sleep in and feel “brunchie,” you’ll often find me at Harpoon Harry’s. This true 1950’s diner is located across from the Historic Seaport on Caroline Street, and owners Robert and Ron will greet you and offer you a “Bloody Harry.” In their diner you can try fish tacos, Blue Plate specials or half-pound burgers. You’ll dine with colorful local fishermen, politicians and pundits, drag queens and tourists.

If a quieter spot suits you better for brunch, try owner/chef Drew Wenzel’s Azur Restaurant. Azur offers al fresco lunch by a waterfall, or an intimate moment in their dining room surrounded by the works of local artists.

Around midday, stop by Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe on the corner of Elizabeth and Greene Streets. Pieman Kermit can be seen in the street offering a Key lime pie to the riders of our local trolleys as they make the turn beside his emporium. Kermit has been featured on the “Today Show” and the Food Network, decked out in his chef’s jacket and Key lime green chef’s hat. (For a real treat, try his frozen chocolate-dipped Key lime pie on a stick!)

Key lime pie guru Kermit Carpenter doesn't really throw pies at visitors -- or does he?

Time for dinner? Discover El Siboney for an authentic Cuban meal where fresh pork, seafood, and chicken are cooked with olive oil, garlic, and secret spices. In true Cuban fashion, the meals are accompanied by black beans, yellow rice, and fried plantains. If you favor fresh seafood Paella Valenciana, call in advance and bring a couple of friends — I don’t think I’ve ever seen as large a dish of paella served anywhere.

A hidden treasure and favorite of mine is the Flaming Buoy Filet Company. Owners Fred Isch and Scot Forste are outrageously entertaining and their dinners are over the top. Steak with blue cheese sauce, black grouper, and scallops wrapped in bacon will tickle your palate. Their lip-smacking lobster mac & cheese is beyond amazing.

When it’s time for dessert, stop in to Flamingo Crossing. For many years this ice cream parlor has churned flavors that include mango, Cuban coffee, guava and passion fruit gelatos. Try the guanabana (soursop) for an interestingly unique Key West flavor. The place offers front-row seats on a busy Duval Street corner, where you’ll suddenly find you have become a part of the colorful fabric that makes up our community. Maybe I’ll see you there!

Till next time … bon appetit!

Topics: Food, Key West, LGBT, Local Color, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

If you’re craving a Florida Keys food fix but can’t make it down to the island chain right away, savor some “virtual dining” with the Travel Channel’s “Man v. Food Nation.” Show host Adam Richman samples signature Keys dishes from three favorite local restaurants in a taped episode that debuted July 6 and reruns nine times through July 18.

At the Key Largo Conch House, the show stages the Conch Republic Fritter Contest to determine who can eat the most conch fritters in 15 minutes. Below, watch Adam coach an engaging — and unexpected — underdog contestant in how to chow down on the classic Keys appetizer.

Other eateries spotlighted include the Hogfish Bar & Grill on Stock Island, where Adam enjoys the “Killer Hogfish” sandwich of locally caught fish in a casual waterfront atmosphere. FYI, the Hogfish is a must-visit spot for its great seafood (especially world-class smoked fish dip), friendly crowd of regular customers, and wonderful old-Keys vibe.

And what would a food show be without dessert? Musician and Florida resident Vanilla Ice joins Adam at Key West’s Blue Heaven to taste the historic spot’s towering meringue-topped Key lime pie (see below). He also explains why the Keys are home to the best Key lime pie anywhere.

Scheduled episode airtimes and dates (all Eastern/Pacific time) are 11 a.m. Saturday, July 9; 9 p.m. Sunday, July 10; 12 a.m. Monday, July 11; 9:30 p.m. Wednesday, July 13; 12:30 a.m. Thursday, July 14; 11:30 a.m. Saturday, July 16; 9:30 p.m. Sunday, July 17; and 12:30 a.m. Monday, July 18.

Be warned, however: watching is guaranteed to whet your appetite for your own food-focused Keys exploration.

Luckily, the Key Largo Food & Wine Festival is coming up July 29 through Aug. 7, Florida lobster season begins Aug. 6 and Key West Lobsterfest is set for Aug. 12-14. So make reservations now — and get ready to savor the flavors of the Florida Keys.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Food, Highlights, Key Largo, Key West, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

Just about every city boasts a signature dish — one that local residents love and curious travelers simply HAVE to try. For example, there’s New Orleans’ jambalaya, Chicago’s deep-dish pizza and Philadelphia’s cheese steak sandwich. In the Florida Keys & Key West, that dish is Key lime pie.

What makes a blog author happy in the Florida Keys? In Christina's case, it's a luscious slice of Key lime pie.

Key lime pie is made from the Key lime, a fruit indigenous to the Keys that’s smaller and rounder than limes typically found in a grocery store. In fact, Key lime pie is the official pie of the entire State of Florida, and millions of slices are savored each year by visitors and locals.

Its exact birthdate and creator are unknown, but the pie was likely created in Key West in the late 19th century — before refrigeration, and before the debut of the Oversea Railway that brought fresh ingredients like milk to the island at high speed.

Recipes for the original Key lime pie don’t require refrigeration OR baking. Instead, the acid in the Key lime juice reacts chemically with the other ingredients (a process called souring) and “cooks” the pie.

The typical ingredients of an authentic Key lime pie are sweetened condensed milk, egg yolks, Key lime juice and a crust generally made from butter and graham crackers. The egg yolks give the pie a yellowish coloring (green pies are absolutely NOT authentic).

Few desserts are more deliciously decadent than frozen chocolate-covered Key lime pie on a stick.

“I’m always amazed that these simple ingredients can make such a wonderful pie,” said Kermit Carpenter, resident Key lime pie expert and the owner of Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe.

Key lime pie can be enjoyed with many toppings, but a controversy has raged for decades over whether whipped cream or meringue is better. Each has its devoted supporters, and the two factions never seem to tire of quarrelling.

Today, Key lime pie is found in many forms throughout the Keys — dipped in chocolate and frozen on a stick at Kermit’s, deep-fried at Porky’s Bayside Restaurant in Marathon or even mixed with multiple flavors.

The pie also has inspired nontraditional Key lime–flavored items: Key lime jerk seasoning from Peppers of Key West, Key Lime Wing Sauce from Kermit’s, homemade Key lime ice cream at Flamingo Crossing in Key West and the milkshake-like Key lime freeze at Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen in Key Largo.

Key lime pie lovers have battled for decades over whether whipped cream or meringue makes a tastier topping.

A good Key lime pie should be naturally tart and stiff, standing up well on a plate yet still looking and feeling creamy.

Where’s the best version in the Keys? Take the road less traveled (i.e., Card Sound Road) to Key Largo’s Alabama Jack’s, and you’ll find a Key lime pie so smooth and cool it could be mistaken for ice cream.

Bob’s Bunz in Islamorada is known for enormous cinnamon and sticky buns, but their Key lime pie is a favorite for its tart lime flavor and creamy cheesecake-like consistency.

Marathon’s hidden Key lime treasure can be found at Keys Fisheries, an outdoor counter-service restaurant connected to a world-class fish and seafood exporter. The fish is fresh off the boat and the pie is the perfect blend of sweet and tart deliciousness.

Through reading and ready to click on another website? Then take your Key lime pie to go -- from Keys Fisheries in Marathon.

Want to savor Key lime pie in tropical luxury? Then head for the Dining Room at Little Palm Island off the Lower Keys. Little Palm’s offering is a decadent cashew-crusted Key lime pie topped with a whipped cream fruit coulis.

Key West features many restaurants and emporiums that claim to serve the best or most authentic Key lime pie. However, meringue lovers’ one-stop shop is the funky Blue Heaven Restaurant in historic Bahama Village. The meringue on Blue Heaven’s pie stands several inches tall — and it’s almost as good to look at as it is to eat.

Topics: Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Food, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

The Keys are very much alive with visitors this season. The weather has been glorious, with sunny days and temperatures in the mid 70s. These are perfect days to relax by the pool, at the beach, or on one of our snorkeling adventures like the Fury’s or sailing adventures on vessels like the Schooner Adirondack.

Key West's spring weather is perfect for a catamaran excusion on the popular Fury.

After your sailing or snorkeling excursion check out the Blackfin Bistro, owned by brothers Joseph and Michael Castellano and their good friend Thomas Quartararo. These guys came to Key West in 2009 and have been serving some great food in their dining room and garden area.

Our weekly Tea Dance has been packed with gay guys and girls and our friends dancing away their Sunday afternoons. Check out the theme for each Sunday Tea Dance and also see what other entertainment is being offered at La Te Da.

Pearl’s Patio, at the well-known Pearl’s Rainbow, has been providing locals and visitors with great live entertainment. Recently Michelle Dravis, Susie Comet, Robert Douglas and Chief Billy & Bob Paul have performed at this quaint Key West establishment. Check Pearl’s calendar for upcoming entertainment.

Kicking in during April are concerts at the Waterfront Playhouse featuring Keys artist Howard Livingston and the Mile Marker 24 Band — and Terri White, recently starring as Matron Mama Morton in the Broadway production of “Chicago” (and previously headlining in New York’s “Finian’s Rainbow,” “Ain’t Misbehavin’” and “Barnum.” These stellar performances will be held at the San Carlos Institute, founded in 1871 by Cuban exiles in Key West.

For cafe con leche, Five Brothers is a winner.

The historic tie between Cuba and Key West is reflected in the island’s Cuban-American population, a vibrant part of our “One Human Family.” Stroll or bicycle our residential areas, and you’ll encounter Cuban markets and sandwich shops where café con leche, bucce, and Cuban mix sandwiches dominate the menus.

My favorite, though, is the medianoche — a sandwich that originated in Cuba and contains roast pork, ham and Swiss cheese. A great cousin to the popular Cuban mix, the medianoche is served on a sweet egg bread that melts in your mouth.

Where’s the best Cuban food in Key West? Five Brothers on Southard Street has been a neighborhood staple for more than 26 years and offers daily lunch specials. Sandy’s Café shares space with the M & M Laundromat, but don’t let that deter you (Yelpers will appreciate the more than 20 reviews of this locals’ hangout). The Cuban Coffee Queen is another hidden gem, located on Margaret Street in the Historic Seaport. Eat at the Queen or order sandwiches to go.

I guess you can tell I like sampling local cuisine in our wonderful island restaurants. Though we’re a small city — roughly two miles by four miles — we have a gastronomical mix that rivals that of any large city. And, for an added plus, you can walk or bicycle to most of our restaurants and cafes.

Hungry? Try Blackfin Bistro's amazing mussels in saffron sauce.

While you’re reading this, I’m promoting the Keys and Key West at Germany’s gigantic ITB Berlin, the world’s leading travel trade show. Founded in 1966, it now features more than 150,000 square meters of exhibit space and more than 10,000 exhibitors.

The Keys raised a rainbow flag at our booth more than 12 years ago and drew a good bit of attention, since there had never been a promotion of gay travel at the event. Today there’s a huge LGBT travel section and gay travel is listed as an official “segment” of the travel industry along with cruises, cultural, adventure and eco-tourism. We’ve come a long way, baby!

Topics: Arts, Food, Key West, LGBT, On the Water, Restaurant Picks

Sample the sweetness of fried plantains served with lime-kissed pork chops. Sway to the infectious rhythms of an outdoor salsa band. Savor the rush of caffeine from a shot of café con leche sold by a smiling vendor. And as you do, breathe a fervent “thank you” for the Cuban heritage that enlivens and enhances Key West.

Revelers in Cuban dress conga down Key West's Duval Street during a festival celebrating the Cuban culture. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Key West is located just 90 miles from Cuba, and the two islands have a cultural connection that dates back almost 180 years.

In the early 1830s, Cuban people began migrating to Key West in search of personal freedom. Among them were scores of skilled cigar-makers who quickly founded factories. By the mid- to late-1800s, Key West was known as the cigar manufacturing capital of the world — producing an astonishing 100 million hand-rolled cigars each year.

Given this rich heritage, it’s no surprise that Cuban food is the most popular ethnic cuisine in Key West. Cuban delicacies include ropa vieja (which, translated literally, means “old clothes” !!!!). Fear not, however — it’s actually a fabulous concoction of shredded beef, tomatoes, green peppers, onions and red wine.

Picadillo, a seasoned ground beef, is another favorite — as are pork chunks marinated in lime and garlic or mojo criollo marinade. Cuban entrees are typically served with black beans, yellow rice, Cuban bread and fried plantains that add a lovely sweetness.

El Siboney's specialties include this savory dish served with traditional yellow rice and sweet plantains. (Photo courtesy of El Siboney)

For a lighter meal, try a traditional Cuban mix sandwich — a blend of meats and cheeses on Cuban bread flattened in a press that looks like a waffle iron. (Oddly enough, you can get the best Cuban mixes at a take-out window beside a Key West laundromat.)

If you’re seeking a sit-down meal, try the authentic Cuban fare at two leading Key West restaurants.

El Siboney is an out-of-the-way spot in a quiet residential neighborhood. Since 1984, the inexpensive family-friendly eatery has served Cuban specialties including world-class roast chicken (and world-class portions; these chickens clearly worked out with weights). Accompanied by black beans and yellow rice, Cuban bread and sweet plantains, the chicken is perfectly seasoned and so tender it practically falls off the bone.

Of course El Siboney also offers ropa vieja, picadillo, savory roast pork and much more.

Great food and great fun rule at El Meson de Pepe. (Photo courtesy of El Meson de Pepe)

And don’t miss El Meson de Pepe, which stands next to Key West’s Mallory Square (site of the renowned nightly sunset celebration). It offers indoor dining in a huge room decorated with intriguing Cuban-themed memorabilia — plus outdoor dining in a unique and wonderful garden festooned with lights. A Latin band plays every night to entice kids, oldsters and everyone in between to dance.

El Meson’s specialties include Cuban pork dishes, ropa vieja and picadillo, and of course black beans and rice with Cuban bread. Believe it or not, the menu also offers wonderful chicken wings marinated in mojo criollo.

FYI, you can immerse yourself in Key West’s Cuban heritage at the Cuban Cultural Exposition, held March 13-26 at the beautiful Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden — an arboretum, garden, wildlife refuge and educational center located at the island’s entrance.

The canvases of Cuban artist Sandy Rico are spotlighted during the Cuban Cultural Exposition. (Photo courtesy of Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden)

The festival’s attractions include a domino tournament, Cuban cooking class, lively dance exhibition and lecture on Cuba’s medicinal herbs and plants, plus a spotlight on the dramatic canvases of Cuban artist Sandy Rico.

You’ll also find an exhibit titled “Viva Cuba Libre — The Chugs of Cuba,” featuring photos of primitive makeshift vessels (called chugs) that carried more recent Cuban refugees to freedom.

The undisputed highlight, however, is Hot Havana Nights, a lavish Latin party at the garden set for 7 p.m. Saturday, March 26. There you can dance to the sounds of Havana Soul while enjoying mojitos, authentic Cuban food, fine cigars, and an auction of handmade Cuban crafts and artistry — a perfect celebration of the historic connection between Key West and its neighbor 90 mlles across the water.

Topics: Events, Food, History, Key West, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

Proving the old saying that a song can change lives, Gloria Teague was forever changed by the James Brown tune “I Feel Good.” In fact, it turned the dive master into a bakery owner and the purveyor of “the best bunz in town.”

As well as karaoke, Gloria Teague enjoys conch shell "musicianship."

It all started when Gloria heard pastry chef Robert Spencer Jr. sing his karaoke version of the iconic hit. She was so impressed by his talent that she approached him and said, “That was amazing. I’ve got to know you.”

Just a few years later, the two friends became the masterminds behind the Islamorada Restaurant & Bakery, a local favorite affectionately known as Bob’s Bunz.

Originally from Washington D.C., Gloria moved to central Florida with her family when she was 10 years old. During family vacations camping in the Keys, she fell in love with diving and Keys waters.

Later, eager to move to the island chain, she took a casual comment made by Captain Spencer Slate of Atlantis Dive Center (“Well, when you’re ready to move, let me know”) as a job offer. She arrived in the Keys in 1990 and worked with Captain Slate for several years before opening her own dive shop, Lady Cyana.

Clearly enjoying herself, Gloria takes the wheel during a seafaring excursion.

“The dive business was very difficult,” Gloria admitted. “In fact, the restaurant business is probably the only thing that’s more difficult — and that’s what I’m doing now.”

After Gloria and Robert Spencer met at karaoke, their friendship blossomed while she worked as a dive master and he worked as the chef for the Islamorada Restaurant & Bakery’s then-owner.

When the place went up for sale, Robert approached Gloria about buying it with him. Despite having no restaurant experience, she decided to trade in her scuba tank for cinnamon buns.

“The only thing that qualified me to own a restaurant is that I’ve eaten out every day of my adult life,” she quipped. “But Rob is a great teacher and I learned in dog years.”

Today, the restaurant is known for friendly service, elegant wedding cakes and the gigantic cinnamon and sticky buns Robert creates — giving it the nickname Bob’s Bunz. (FYI, the buns are so large that Gloria is convinced the Overseas Highway weigh station at mile marker 80 was put up because of all the calories consumed at Bob’s Bunz.)

Adorning the walls of the partners’ laidback emporium are many T-shirts and novelties Gloria created — bearing their catchphrase “the best bunz in town” and other sayings like “bite my bunz.”

Gloria and Robert's eatery is casual and welcoming ... and has become a Keys legend for its world-class cinnamon and sticky "bunz."

“My goal is for everyone to leave with something in their hands,” she said, “and not just in their tummies.”

Gloria admits she loves working with people, especially the many brides and grooms whose wedding cakes the bakery designs. They prepare between 300 and 400 wedding cakes per year, and the most popular is their Key lime cake. It’s so delicious, she boasts, that she’s never met anyone who didn’t like it.

She and Bob’s Bunz strive to serve consistent, high-quality food and test their success by making sure everyone walks out of the restaurant “hugging their bellies.”

“We’re not interested in being a bigger better place like chain restaurants — we’re just interested in being the best we can be,” she stressed. “We want to grow, but still be friendly and fun.”

When she’s not working, Gloria Teague spends time riding her bike around the Upper Keys, diving the reefs or exploring her favorite spot, Windley Key, which she calls the area’s best undiscovered tourist attraction.

And every Sunday night, she and Robert Spencer still can be found at karaoke at Key Largo’s Coconuts Restaurant & Lounge — the spot where they first met and a song changed their lives.

Topics: Food, Highlights, Islamorada, Key Largo, Local Color, Profiles, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

Key Largo is the northernmost gateway to the Florida Keys. Known as the dive capital of the world, it earns raves from underwater enthusiasts for its colorful reefs and marine life — but it’s sometimes under-appreciated by visitors who prefer dry land.

As well its local landmarks and world-class diving, Key Largo is known for a popular annual run over one of its breathtaking bridges. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

No wetsuit, no mask, no boat? No problem! Key Largo is filled with unforgettable local hangouts for those who want to keep their heads above water.

Begin by taking the road less traveled — Card Sound Road, where attractions include Crocodile Lake National Wildlife Refuge, lush plant life and the infamous Alabama Jack’s. Since 1947, this open-air rustic restaurant and watering hole has been a Keys favorite for everyday pirates and bikers … and celebrities like Billy Joel, Jimmy Buffett and others.

What began as a rough biker bar has evolved into a family-owned and operated place that boasts a diverse crowd, attentive service, fresh homemade food and good times. Since the Saguer family purchased Alabama Jack’s in 1981, they’ve offered live entertainment every weekend by the Card Sound Road Machine and their clog dancers.

Owner Phyllis Sauger, a former science teacher from Michigan, is the mastermind behind Alabama Jack’s most famous dishes — crab cakes, chocolate peanut butter cheesecake and fish dip. As befits a science teacher, she spent three years concocting the “formula” for the award-winning conch fritters.

Key Largo's Caribbean Club is famed as a location for the 1948 movie classic that shares a name with the Keys' gateway island.

A fabulous next stop is the Key Largo Conch House for a fresh cup of java and a bite of award-winning lobster and conch ceviche. Tucked away behind a leafy hammock near mile marker (MM) 100, the Conch House features designer coffee blends from Costa Rica and a full menu of locally acclaimed dishes.

It’s been showcased on the Food Network as a quaint, off-the-beaten-path place to eat — and no wonder. This peachy little home is ideal for a quiet family outing or a cup of tea in the garden. It’s also family-owned and operated as an eco-friendly restaurant that incorporates almost exclusively local ingredients in its dishes.

When you arrive, you’ll probably be greeted by Romeo the parrot. According to owner Laura Dreaver, they purchased Romeo because “in the Keys we’re all pirates and walk around with our parrots.”

Mrs. Mac's Kitchen is rightfully renowned for its Key lime pie and other yummy homemade dishes.

Parrots and pirates are certainly appropriate at the Caribbean Club, MM 104. This local watering hole, made famous as a location for scenes in the 1948 movie classic “Key Largo,” has been a Keys landmark for decades. You’ll find Harleys lined up outside, rickety boats tied up at the dock and (of course) cold beers in the ice chest.

Key Largo is also home to Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen, where the sign reading “World Famous Key Lime Pie” is NOT an exaggeration. The pie is a delicious blend of sweet and tart goodness in a thick graham cracker crust.

Founded in 1976, this Keys favorite was named for the mother of original owner Jeff MacFarland in honor of her recipes.

When the day's exploring is over, nothing beats a Key Largo sunset over the water.

Since sisters Angela and Paula Wittke purchased the restaurant in 1987, they have run it by a simple motto: “Eat Well, Laugh Often, Live Long.” The tiny eatery is decorated with wall-to-wall license plates donated by guests who want to leave their mark on the place.

All dishes and sauces are homemade-from-scratch with Keys flair, and owners and staff display a lively sense of humor.

“When they ask us if we serve crabs, we tell them we’ll serve anybody,” Angela Wittke said.

Want more insights on the top local spots in the Key Largo area? Just click here.

Topics: Food, Highlights, History, Key Largo, Local Color, Restaurant Picks

What discoveries about the Florida Keys delight a newcomer most? In my case, the top “find” was purely delicious: Key lime pie. Before I elaborate, however, here’s some background.

In just a few months, I went from being a Keys newbie to a Keys convert. Here I am at Key West's famed Southernmost Point marker.

Just over a year ago, I was hired to help tell the world about the Keys as part of the destination’s PR team. But I have to admit that, prior to getting hired, I hadn’t really immersed myself in the island chain.

Sure, I’ve lived in South Florida most of my life so I did get the occasional invite from a friend to spend a weekend in the Keys … once every year or two, maybe. But I wasn’t like a lot of my friends growing up, who lived on the water boating in the Keys and spending summers at their beach condos.

Lately, though, I’ve ventured away from my previously-cherished theme park vacations and spent some free time adventuring in the Keys. Doing so, I’ve discovered a world outside of animatronics, long lines and overpriced cafeteria food … and it’s changed me as a person forever.

For example, I always thought I hated seafood until I came to the Keys and ate dolphin (mahi-mahi) that I had caught fresh that morning. (Well, I didn’t exactly catch it myself; my best friend caught it as I “fed the fish” off the side of the boat, but it was delicious nonetheless.)

This luscious Key lime pie makes me smile -- and no wonder!

I realized I’d left theme park vacations behind when I went to the Fish House in Key Largo and asked what the fresh catch of the day was. The waiter replied, “It’s all fresh — we’re in the Keys!”

I used to sneer at my stepfather every time he had a craving for Key lime pie … that is, until I visited Keys Fisheries in Marathon and had a slice of the heavenly sweet and tart goodness they call Key lime pie.

Today, I’ve been dubbed my office’s resident Florida Keys Key lime pie expert. To prove it, I even have a photo of the luscious meringue-topped pie that’s served at Key West’s Blue Heaven hanging above my desk.

In the past, I’ve seen plenty of shows on vacation, from concerts to magicians’ acts. But the term “live show” takes on a whole new meaning at Dolphins Plus in Key Largo. You’re not a spectator — you’re an enthusiastic participant, sharing an experience with a grinning dolphin during their structured dolphin swim programs.

At Dolphins Plus, Bob (at left) and Jessica gave me an affectionate Keys welcome.

My dolphin’s name was Bob, and Bob was more romantic than any guy I’ve dated in quite some time. He gave me a sweet kiss on the cheek and brought me a gift. (Okay, it was a sloppy wet kiss and the gift was a piece of seaweed, but it was charming anyway.)

On top of all that, I love the fun-loving and quirky characters you meet in the Keys. It seems people are always in a good mood — willing to offer you a beer from their cooler, a ride on their jet ski or some leftover fish.

These days I’m no longer a Keys newbie, but I AM a Keys convert when it comes to choosing my vacations. After spending time in a real-life island paradise, the rest just doesn’t cut it anymore.

Topics: Food, Highlights, Key Largo, Key West, Local Color, Marathon, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

Saltwater anglers in the Keys often swap fish tales, but sometimes their “true” storylines seemingly get tangled in their fishing “lines.” Unflinching humorist Nick Aldacosta, for decades a Marathon fishing captain, has spun thousands of those tales and cast miles of line.

Nick Aldacosta's grin can't hide his wicked sense of humor or world-class storytelling skill.

“That reminds me of a story,” he’ll say with a disarming grin. No matter how outrageous or embellished the details, his tales are indeed true and his listeners are drawn to the punch line like a billfish to bait.

Nick’s own life story is equally engaging, spun from his early years on shrimp boats, docksides and charter vessels. Born in Fort Myers, Fla., he’s been a Marathon resident since he was just a year old.

His father was a shrimp fisherman, and at age 3 Nick started learning the ways of the water.

As a small boy he “caught” his first fish, a mangrove snapper.

“My dad tied a fishing line around my waist and told me, ‘When something pulls on the line, run.’ Well, that fish nearly pulled me off the table on the shore, so I took off running, pulling that fish right outta’ the water,” Nick said with a laugh. “I must have run 15 or 20 miles, that fish trailin’ behind me.”

At age 13, Nick was rigging baits, shaking weeds off fishermen’s lines and selling live mullet for $5 a dozen out of his mother’s Falcon station wagon, running between the Seven Mile Bridge and Bahia Honda. By the time he was 21, he owned Nick’s Sporting Goods.

A younger Nick Aldacosta (seated), circa 1980s, and a small fishing buddy admire their catch after a day on the water.

Though his descriptions of his on-the-water activities during the Keys’ no-holds-barred 1970s fall somewhere between shady and chivalrous, during that time Nick’s charter fishing business aboard Nautical Wheeler came to fruition.

His fishing pals were raucous, rich and famous. They included actor Lee Marvin and sportfishing legend Ron Hamlin, who authored “Tournament,” a fictional angling tale whose character Wink Andros bears an uncanny resemblance to Nick Aldacosta.

Nick’s wife Annette Walsh, who with him owns and operates Annette’s Lobster & Steak House in Marathon, caught his fishing fever and achieved an elusive grand slam shortly after they were married.

“We’d only gone out for the morning in a 14-foot skiff,” NIck said. “We had crackers on the boat, and that’s it.”

The “morning” evolved into a compelling 13-hour episode of fishing. Without fuel, bait or appropriate rods for what lay ahead — a grand slam needs to be completed on the same boat, within 24 hours — they borrowed mullet and tarpon rods from fisherman friends.

Nick siphoned needed gas from his “mullet wagon,” an indescribably ugly convertible with a plywood bait box in place of the trunk. (Nick freely admits that, on a particularly rum-soaked night when the car was still reasonably intact, he left a customer’s tarpon in the trunk. When its scales fell off and the stink grew unbearable, he simply cut off the car’s back end.)

Nick and his wife, Annette Walsh, stand flanked by the grand slam tarpon, permit and bonefish that, along with pictures of Captain Nick's angling days, grace the walls of their restaurant.

After Annette landed the necessary permit and bonefish, the duo targeted tarpon, the final fish in the coveted grand slam.

“She hooked a 150-pound tarpon and fought it an hour and a half, until releasing it at 8:30 p.m. — the fish were all released,” Nick said.

Replicas of the grand slam fish still hang on the walls of the restaurant.

More than 30 years, three vessels and three mullet wagons later, Nick Aldacosta still loves taking people fishing.

Not long ago, sitting at the edge of the restaurant’s bar where patrons and passersby could hear him spin a yarn, he quipped, “I’m not in the fishin’ business; I’m in the entertainment business. I just fish for fun.”

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They look like the clawed talons of some oversized prehistoric bird. That is, if the bird was dreamed up by a Disney animation specialist with a strange sense of humor. But these claws, orange-red and pale yellow and black, come from the ocean instead of the sky.

Stone crabs are most abundant in the Florida Keys, and considered a seafood delicacy. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

They’re stone crab claws, offering sweet and scrumptious meat that’s among the Florida Keys’ most popular (and deservedly famous) delicacies. Since the stone crab season began Oct. 15, these savory claws have appeared prominently on the menus of top Keys restaurants — triggering a virtual stampede of savvy seafood aficionados.

Typically the claws are satisfyingly large, closer in size to a two-pound Maine lobster’s claws than a blue crab’s claws. Their commercial harvest dates back to the 1930s in Keys inshore waters, and the hard ocean floor and favorable environment support healthy local crab populations.

Stone crabs have the ability to regenerate their claws, making them a renewable resource. Fishermen generally pull the larger of the two claws and return the crab to its natural environment.

The claws are usually cooked immediately after being brought to the dock, by placing them in boiling water and then bringing the water back to a boil. Total cooking time is about 7 or 8 minutes.

Bennett Orr of Keys Fisheries plucks stone crabs out of a trap. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

What’s the secret to cracking the smooth, hard shell of the claw to get at the meat inside? Forget those squeeze-together shell crackers. Instead, gently smack the shell with the back of a spoon, and it will crack cleanly.

The traditional dip for stone crab claws is made from mustard (choose your favorite) with mayonnaise or sour cream, plus extras like Worcestershire or A-1 sauce and salt and pepper to taste.

One of the best spots in the Keys to savor stone crab is Keys Fisheries, located in Marathon. You’ll find the super-casual eatery in an industrial region off the Overseas Highway, nestled right beside the waterfront, surrounded by commercial docks and mountains of crab traps.

A favorite of locals in the know, the establishment has a funky atmosphere that communicates the essence of the island chain’s laidback style. Guests sit at wooden picnic tables on an outdoor patio facing the Gulf of Mexico. Décor includes fishing nets and nautical art, and the stone crab claws have that fresh-off-the-boat flavor that can’t be surpassed.

Stone crab claws are a sought-after delicacy at the Original Marathon Seafood Festival. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Stone crabs are prized so highly in the Keys that they star in several food festivals — like the Key Largo Stone Crab & Seafood Festival at the end of January. Organizers report that this yummy event is chock full of fresh stone crabs, conch, local seafood, music, entertainment and fun for the entire family.

The Original Marathon Seafood Festival is so popular that some dedicated diners even plan their Middle Keys vacations around it. For more than three decades, local fishermen and their families have prepared stone crab claws and other fresh indigenous seafood for thousands of attendees who flock to the March event. Not surprisingly, it has become a beloved Keys tradition.

Happily for those of us who crave the tasty claws, the stone crab season continues each year through May 15. So head for your favorite Keys seafood emporium … and “get cracking” on a plateful.

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