Saltwater anglers in the Keys often swap fish tales, but sometimes their “true” storylines seemingly get tangled in their fishing “lines.” Unflinching humorist Nick Aldacosta, for decades a Marathon fishing captain, has spun thousands of those tales and cast miles of line.

Nick Aldacosta's grin can't hide his wicked sense of humor or world-class storytelling skill.

“That reminds me of a story,” he’ll say with a disarming grin. No matter how outrageous or embellished the details, his tales are indeed true and his listeners are drawn to the punch line like a billfish to bait.

Nick’s own life story is equally engaging, spun from his early years on shrimp boats, docksides and charter vessels. Born in Fort Myers, Fla., he’s been a Marathon resident since he was just a year old.

His father was a shrimp fisherman, and at age 3 Nick started learning the ways of the water.

As a small boy he “caught” his first fish, a mangrove snapper.

“My dad tied a fishing line around my waist and told me, ‘When something pulls on the line, run.’ Well, that fish nearly pulled me off the table on the shore, so I took off running, pulling that fish right outta’ the water,” Nick said with a laugh. “I must have run 15 or 20 miles, that fish trailin’ behind me.”

At age 13, Nick was rigging baits, shaking weeds off fishermen’s lines and selling live mullet for $5 a dozen out of his mother’s Falcon station wagon, running between the Seven Mile Bridge and Bahia Honda. By the time he was 21, he owned Nick’s Sporting Goods.

A younger Nick Aldacosta (seated), circa 1980s, and a small fishing buddy admire their catch after a day on the water.

Though his descriptions of his on-the-water activities during the Keys’ no-holds-barred 1970s fall somewhere between shady and chivalrous, during that time Nick’s charter fishing business aboard Nautical Wheeler came to fruition.

His fishing pals were raucous, rich and famous. They included actor Lee Marvin and sportfishing legend Ron Hamlin, who authored “Tournament,” a fictional angling tale whose character Wink Andros bears an uncanny resemblance to Nick Aldacosta.

Nick’s wife Annette Walsh, who with him owns and operates Annette’s Lobster & Steak House in Marathon, caught his fishing fever and achieved an elusive grand slam shortly after they were married.

“We’d only gone out for the morning in a 14-foot skiff,” NIck said. “We had crackers on the boat, and that’s it.”

The “morning” evolved into a compelling 13-hour episode of fishing. Without fuel, bait or appropriate rods for what lay ahead — a grand slam needs to be completed on the same boat, within 24 hours — they borrowed mullet and tarpon rods from fisherman friends.

Nick siphoned needed gas from his “mullet wagon,” an indescribably ugly convertible with a plywood bait box in place of the trunk. (Nick freely admits that, on a particularly rum-soaked night when the car was still reasonably intact, he left a customer’s tarpon in the trunk. When its scales fell off and the stink grew unbearable, he simply cut off the car’s back end.)

Nick and his wife, Annette Walsh, stand flanked by the grand slam tarpon, permit and bonefish that, along with pictures of Captain Nick's angling days, grace the walls of their restaurant.

After Annette landed the necessary permit and bonefish, the duo targeted tarpon, the final fish in the coveted grand slam.

“She hooked a 150-pound tarpon and fought it an hour and a half, until releasing it at 8:30 p.m. — the fish were all released,” Nick said.

Replicas of the grand slam fish still hang on the walls of the restaurant.

More than 30 years, three vessels and three mullet wagons later, Nick Aldacosta still loves taking people fishing.

Not long ago, sitting at the edge of the restaurant’s bar where patrons and passersby could hear him spin a yarn, he quipped, “I’m not in the fishin’ business; I’m in the entertainment business. I just fish for fun.”

Topics: Highlights, Local Color, Marathon, On the Water, Profiles, Quirks, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

They look like the clawed talons of some oversized prehistoric bird. That is, if the bird was dreamed up by a Disney animation specialist with a strange sense of humor. But these claws, orange-red and pale yellow and black, come from the ocean instead of the sky.

Stone crabs are most abundant in the Florida Keys, and considered a seafood delicacy. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

They’re stone crab claws, offering sweet and scrumptious meat that’s among the Florida Keys’ most popular (and deservedly famous) delicacies. Since the stone crab season began Oct. 15, these savory claws have appeared prominently on the menus of top Keys restaurants — triggering a virtual stampede of savvy seafood aficionados.

Typically the claws are satisfyingly large, closer in size to a two-pound Maine lobster’s claws than a blue crab’s claws. Their commercial harvest dates back to the 1930s in Keys inshore waters, and the hard ocean floor and favorable environment support healthy local crab populations.

Stone crabs have the ability to regenerate their claws, making them a renewable resource. Fishermen generally pull the larger of the two claws and return the crab to its natural environment.

The claws are usually cooked immediately after being brought to the dock, by placing them in boiling water and then bringing the water back to a boil. Total cooking time is about 7 or 8 minutes.

Bennett Orr of Keys Fisheries plucks stone crabs out of a trap. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

What’s the secret to cracking the smooth, hard shell of the claw to get at the meat inside? Forget those squeeze-together shell crackers. Instead, gently smack the shell with the back of a spoon, and it will crack cleanly.

The traditional dip for stone crab claws is made from mustard (choose your favorite) with mayonnaise or sour cream, plus extras like Worcestershire or A-1 sauce and salt and pepper to taste.

One of the best spots in the Keys to savor stone crab is Keys Fisheries, located in Marathon. You’ll find the super-casual eatery in an industrial region off the Overseas Highway, nestled right beside the waterfront, surrounded by commercial docks and mountains of crab traps.

A favorite of locals in the know, the establishment has a funky atmosphere that communicates the essence of the island chain’s laidback style. Guests sit at wooden picnic tables on an outdoor patio facing the Gulf of Mexico. Décor includes fishing nets and nautical art, and the stone crab claws have that fresh-off-the-boat flavor that can’t be surpassed.

Stone crab claws are a sought-after delicacy at the Original Marathon Seafood Festival. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Stone crabs are prized so highly in the Keys that they star in several food festivals — like the Key Largo Stone Crab & Seafood Festival at the end of January. Organizers report that this yummy event is chock full of fresh stone crabs, conch, local seafood, music, entertainment and fun for the entire family.

The Original Marathon Seafood Festival is so popular that some dedicated diners even plan their Middle Keys vacations around it. For more than three decades, local fishermen and their families have prepared stone crab claws and other fresh indigenous seafood for thousands of attendees who flock to the March event. Not surprisingly, it has become a beloved Keys tradition.

Happily for those of us who crave the tasty claws, the stone crab season continues each year through May 15. So head for your favorite Keys seafood emporium … and “get cracking” on a plateful.

Topics: Events, Festivals, Food, Highlights, Key Largo, Marathon, On the Water, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

Key West has a richness that becomes more apparent with each new exploration of the island. Taking the time to experience it is like savoring a plate of Cuban food — allowing yourself the chance to appreciate each dish’s individual flavors, textures and contrasts.

The Schooner Wharf's postcard identifies the bar as "the center of the universe" -- and for its many fans, it just might be.

The places listed here are renowned for their atmosphere and attractions. Most likely, you won’t discover them by accident — yet seeking them out will add to your enjoyment of Key West whether your stay lasts a few days, a season, or a lifetime.

For example, if you’re looking for a great local bar, stop by the Schooner Wharf (www.schoonerwharf.com) at 202 William St. Located on the waterfront in the Historic Seaport, it’s the kind of funky open-air place where you can bring your dog, your girlfriend and half a dozen fishing buddies — and everyone will have a good time.

Schooner Wharf’s owners pay special attention to finding high-quality bands to grace the small stage. Despite their talent, it’s singer-songwriter Michael McCloud whose music defines the bar. Generally playing from noon to 5 p.m., McCloud is best when performing his original tunes spiced with island attitude and rueful humor.

Key lime pie guru Kermit Carpenter doesn't really throw pies at visitors -- or does he?

About a block from the Schooner Wharf, at the colorful Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe (www.keylimeshop.com) at 200A Elizabeth St., you’ll find unique Keys gifts and decadent treats. This emporium is the home of everything Key lime — from bottles of the island’s signature Key lime juice to Key lime sauces, soap, candles, dressings, shampoo, jellies and more.

The biggest attractions, though, are slices of traditional Key lime pie and indescribably good chocolate-covered frozen Key lime pie on a stick — and exuberant shop owner Kermit Carpenter, who can often be seen standing outside the shop in his chef’s whites preparing to “throw” a Key lime pie at unwary passersby.

Across the island lies an upscale cocktail hideaway in a picturesque Key West setting: the Afterdeck at Louie’s Backyard (www.louiesbackyard.com), on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean at 700 Waddell Ave. Beloved by Key West literary legends, visiting celebrities, world-class fishing guides and savvy locals, the Afterdeck is a place to take someone special — whether the love of your life, a treasured friend or a visiting relative you want to impress.

For fine food and world-class cocktails on an oceanside deck, visit the out-of-the-way haven called Louie's Backyard.

One of Key West’s finest gourmet restaurants, Louie’s Backyard itself occupies a restored Victorian house with dining inside and on tiered decks leading down to the Afterdeck and the water. After dark, lights spill from the house and the decks to illuminate the bar, the stars above look practically close enough to touch, and the Atlantic unrolls seemingly halfway to Cuba.

Speaking of dining, eating Cuban food in Key West — whether you’re a first-time visitor or an aspiring local — is a necessity. It’s probably mandated in the city charter somewhere (and if it isn’t, it should be). There’s an ongoing controversy about which is the island’s best Cuban restaurant, but don’t get drawn into it. The clear winner is El Siboney (www.elsiboneyrestaurant.com), an out-of-the-way spot tucked into a quiet residential neighborhood.

Located at the corner of Catherine and Margaret streets, El Siboney is an inexpensive family-friendly eatery that serves some of the best roast chicken anywhere (and the largest portions). Accompanied by black beans and yellow rice, Cuban bread and sweet plantains, the perfectly-seasoned chicken is so tender it practically falls off the bone.

Cocktails, Cuban food and Key Lime pie ... in Key West, it doesn't get much better than that. Photo by Bob Krist/Florida Keys News Bureau

Of course El Siboney also offers other Cuban specialties: traditional ropa vieja and picadillo, savory roast pork and dishes marinated in a garlicky sauce called mojo criollo.

From its Cuban restaurants to waterfront watering holes, Key West is just waiting to be explored. Use the suggestions here as a beginning, and start compiling your own list of favorite places.

Topics: Food, Highlights, Key West, Local Color, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

It’s called the No Name Pub, and it bills itself as the oldest pub in Florida. It might also be the hardest to find — the quirky eatery lies off U.S. Highway 1 in the Lower Florida Keys, down a winding road and over a humpbacked bridge in an individualistic settlement known as No Name Key.

You have to venture off the proverbial beaten path to find the No Name Pub, but the experience is well worth it. (Photo courtesy of the No Name Pub)

This out-of-the-way location doesn’t keep people from discovering the local landmark — or falling in love with its historic Florida Keys charm, world-class pizza and ramshackle décor that includes interior walls papered with dollar bills.

What is now the pub first opened as a general store and bait and tackle shop in 1931. In 1936, the owners began serving food; in the late 1930s they opened a brothel in an upstairs storage room.

The restaurant proved more popular than the brothel (no doubt a surprise to certain ladies eager to earn extra money!). The latter faded away, while the pub started attracting an ever-larger following.

Serious enjoyment and ramshackle decor characterize the quirky No Name Pub. (Photo courtesy of the No Name Pub)

Amenities in subsequent years included a honky-tonk atmosphere and amusements ranging from pool to less savory games of chance — some reputedly run by the local sheriff.

The pub’s famous pizza was born in 1960, prepared according to a recipe imported by two Italian cooks. It proved to be such an enduring draw that today it’s modestly promoted as “the best pizza in the known universe.”

You can choose traditional varieties or gourmet delights like a Keys shrimp pizza (a must-have treat — the combination of bubbly, slightly salty cheese and the Keys’ own sweet pink shrimp is impossible to resist).

The pub's individualistic character is exemplified by its funky casual signs -- like the ones pictured here. (Photo courtesy of the No Name Pub)

As the pub’s nearly 70 years of popularity prove, when great food and laidback Keys flavor come together, “no name” is no barrier to success.

The place itself may be hard to find, but its website is easy. Visit www.nonamepub.com for a glimpse of the landmark’s offbeat character, historic photos, menu highlights and a more-or-less exact address (actually, you find it by turning off U.S. Highway 1 at mile marker 30.5 bayside and then following the winding road … but resign yourself to the inevitability of getting lost at least once).

AND WHILE YOU’RE LOST … EXPLORE THESE!

Big-eyed and shy, Key deer can be spotted throughout the Lower Keys widlife refuge created to protect them. (Photo courtesy of Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

NATIONAL KEY DEER REFUGE, down Key Deer Boulevard off U.S. 1 at mile marker 30.5 bayside. At first, you might wonder what all the fuss is about. Then you see one — a big-eyed Key deer, no taller than a good-sized Doberman, standing at the roadside in an instant of arrested motion before it scampers away — and you’re hooked on the tiny critters. The best times to spot them are early morning and dusk, and they wander freely in the refuge. The refuge has an informative visitors’ center located in Big Pine Key’s Winn Dixie Shopping Center.

THE BLUE HOLE, within the Key Deer Refuge down Key Deer Boulevard off U.S. 1 at mile marker 30.5 bayside. This was originally an old rock quarry used in the construction of the Overseas Railroad that connected the Keys to mainland Florida (and to each other) in the early 1900s. Today it’s a freshwater habitat for alligators and wading birds. Spend a few minutes at this secluded oasis, before or after your pizza, and you’ll swear you’ve been transported back in time to the Keys’ early days.

Topics: Animal Ambassadors, Big Pine Key & Lower Keys, Environment, Food, Highlights, History, Local Color, Quirks, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

Important alert: anyone who has spotted a bunch of smiling human-sized carrots playing tourist in Key West lately is not — repeat NOT — hallucinating, insane, or overdoing the liquid refreshment served in Duval Street bars.

Why are these carrots cavorting at Key West's Southernmost Point marker? (Carrot photos by Vanessa Brock of Brock Media International)

In fact, the venturesome veggies have been seen by reputable (and sober) witnesses at Key West’s Southernmost Point marker, touring the island on the Conch Train, and even going to sea on a sailing excursion.

Why are the carrots carrying on all over town? According to Key West chef Charlie (a.k.a. Charlotte) Wilson, they’re on a mission inspired by her local organic restaurant, Help Yourself — having fun to show people how good they can feel if they fuel their bodies with healthy foods. 

Coming up with a fresh and creative way to spread a health-promoting message is nothing new for Charlie. Actually, it’s a philosophy that underlies the British-trained chef’s entire business.

When Charlie and a now-departed partner opened Help Yourself Foods in October 2008, they debuted a veritable smorgasbord of healthy organic foods and an imaginative, ever-evolving menu.

Charlie Wilson is the guiding spirit behind Help Yourself Foods -- and its veggie ambassadors.

Charlie encourages people to eat “real food” — unprocessed food free of pesticides, chemicals, preservatives, hormones and antibiotics. Yet she knows that’s not always easy in today’s fast-paced world.

“Restaurants serving organic, healthy choices are in the minority,” Charlie said. “We aim to fill this gap by providing natural, organic, healthy food that tastes great, is fun, easily accessible and appeals to everyone.”

Help Yourself’s menu ranges from wraps and salads to smoothies, energizing breakfasts and main meals such as meatless lasagna and Korean barbecued organic chicken. Diners can even satisfy their sweet tooth with homemade sugar-free and dairy-free “no moo ice cream.”

Charlie hopes the restaurant will set an example of reducing waste as well as eating organic cuisine. Take-out customers are served their organic goodies in biodegradable containers, and 90 percent of the restaurant’s trash is composted or recycled.

The vivacious veggies promote the pleasures of healthy eating.

Given Charlie’s choice of “veggie ambassadors,” it’s no surprise to find that some of Help Yourself’s dishes contain carrots and carrot juice, or that her business logo features a smiling carrot.

Chances are, the human-sized bunch will turn up from time to time at the restaurant too — as well as in other Key West locations — spreading the word that healthy eating can be fun.

Just don’t expect them to indulge in a spot of “karrot-oke.” 

Find out what the cavorting carrots are up to at www.carrotfun.com, visit Help Yourself in Key West at 829 Fleming St., and check out the restaurant online at www.helpyourselffoods.com.

Topics: Food, Key West, Quirks, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive

Keys Fisheries' Gary Graves presides over a pot of stone crab chowder.

Not many people are aware that the stone crabs served at Miami’s famous Joe’s Stone Crab restaurant are provided by a commercial fishing operation in the Florida Keys — Keys Fisheries in Marathon. And Gary Graves, owner of Keys Fisheries restaurant and manager of the fishing operation, has been with the business since it began more than 40 years ago.

“I have been in the Keys since August of 1967, and in October of that year I went to work for Stone Crab Inc., which was started by the folks from Joe’s Stone Crab in June of 1967,” said Gary, who eventually became manager of the commercial fishing operation.

From that commercial fishing operation grew the idea for a restaurant. The first step was a retail market that opened in August 2000, and the restaurant debuted in November of the same year.

Stone crabs are most abundant in the Florida Keys, and considered a seafood delicacy. (Photo by Andy Newman/ Florida Keys News Bureau)

“I have been all over the world and eaten great food,” stated Gary. “I knew we produced great seafood and I always wanted a restaurant.”

So when Joe’s Stone Crab bought more property for the operation, an on-site building became available and Keys Fisheries Restaurant was born. Gary had no prior knowledge about the restaurant industry, or being an owner, so he started slow and casual.

“We started hand-to-mouth with two picnic tables and a few fish sandwiches. Then we hired a chef and began evolving, and we’re fortunate that we’ve had the same cooks and folks working in the restaurant for many years,” he said.

Even today, the atmosphere is refreshingly casual. Scrubbed picnic tables stand on an open-air patio at the water’s edge, and the cry of seabirds accompanies every meal. Instead of table service, customers order their selections from a menu printed on a huge blackboard, get their own utensils and pick up their own food.

The "lunch crowd" lines up to order at Keys Fisheries. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

The menu has evolved to include the signature lobster Reuben and other popular favorites such as stone crab soup, conch chowder and Key lime mahi. The recipes were concocted over the years by different chefs and cooks, including Gary’s wife, Kathy. The menu now boasts about 40 items — and freshness is the main ingredient.

The stone crab soup is prepared with fresh-caught crabmeat that isn’t served with the claws on the menu. The conch chowder is homemade too. And although stone crab claws at most restaurants are served chilled, Keys Fisheries serves them hot to order during stone crab season from October to May.

“Our stone crabs are cooked to order during the season between 5 and 8 p.m., and so you’re eating them hot. This is very different — unique and absolutely delicious,” Gary said. “We also have the best value in stone crabs, being that we are the producer.”

Bennett Orr of Keys Fisheries plucks stone crabs out of a trap. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

And the eatery’s famous lobster Reuben? Gary came up with the dish after attending a meeting in Miami at Joe’s Stone Crab, where he was shown the version offered at Joe’s Take Away. About five months later, he created an oversized sandwich at Keys Fisheries using lobster meat, homemade Thousand Island dressing and freshly baked bread.

“Being such a huge producer of lobster as well as stone crabs, we have leftover meat from the lobster tails,” Gary explained. “So it dawned on me, why not make our own lobster Reuben?”

Like savoring the lobster Reuben, ordering at Keys Fisheries is a unique experience. Customers walk up to a window and place their order for pickup. But instead of being asked their name, as in most establishments, they’re asked the question of the day, which might require them to name their favorite song title, pet peeve or New Year’s resolution.

When the order is ready, the customer’s answer is announced over the loudspeaker to signal that he or she can come collect the meal.

The system exemplifies Gary Graves’ philosophy — simply (and deliciously) based on “making his customer’s meal a good value, and also making dining at Keys Fisheries fun.”

Hungry for fresh Florida Keys seafood? Visit www.keysfisheries.com. 

Topics: Food, Highlights, Local Color, Marathon, Restaurant Picks, Voices Main Archive